(Topic ID: 88717)

AC/DC left flipper stopped working.


By Arcade

6 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 30 posts
  • 5 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by Arcade
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 6 years ago

Yes , someone called me on the phone and while holding up the flipper for only about 4 min. It just up and gave out.
Do I need to replace a TIP or something?
All fuses of course test fine.
I know I read about Blondetall and others having this happen to them as well.
Decided to have a pinball party this Sunday and my machines must have heard. Lol.
Small problems starting to appear out of nowhere.

#2 6 years ago

Did you pull fuse and check with a meter ? If not start there.

If the transistor was bad, the flipper would be lock on at power up.

Switch test, push the flipper button and see if it works.

LTG : )

#3 6 years ago

Yes. Pulled F5 which was the only one listed for Flippers that I could find on the chart. It test good.
It is not locked on at power up. Just does nothing.
Have not tried a switch test.

#4 6 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

only one listed for Flippers

Is there one under the playfield near the flipper ?

LTG : )™

#5 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Is there one under the playfield near the flipper ?
LTG : )™

Getting ready to go and check that. Don't remember seeing one under there, but you never know.

#6 6 years ago

OK. Replaced fuse next to flipper. It was blown.
However, Now the coil locks on at power up.
Anyone know which transistor to replace for left flipper?

#7 6 years ago
Quoted from LTG:

Did you pull fuse and check with a meter ? If not start there.
If the transistor was bad, the flipper would be lock on at power up.
Switch test, push the flipper button and see if it works.
LTG : )

#8 6 years ago

Am I missing something WOLF?

#9 6 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Anyone know which transistor to replace for left flipper?

Someone here may. If no manual, call Stern tech support 1-800-kickers.

Or pull the board and check the big ones with a meter. Only one shorted.

LTG : )™

#10 6 years ago

Finally found the page in the manual. Not what I was expecting it to look like.
Looks like it will be Q15
Now just need to locate what type of Transistor it is. Guessing TIP 122, but will hunt some more.
Thanks Loyd, I really appreciate all the help.

#11 6 years ago

I just checked a SAM System game, the game tells you too. Diagnostics - Tests - Coils - step up to #15 left flipper. They use the spot in tests to coincide with transistor number.

LTG : )™

#12 6 years ago

I don't think... That's usually a sign of the drive transistor shorting. Sorry, I don't have a schematic for this, so I'm no help on telling which one.

#13 6 years ago
Quoted from WOLF:

I don't think... That's usually a sign of the drive transistor shorting. Sorry, I don't have a schematic for this, so I'm no help on telling which one.

Interesting. Something is keeping this coil energized at power up.
It was certainly caused by holding the flipper up too long and popped the fuse. However looks like not in time to save the TIP.

#14 6 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Yes , someone called me on the phone and while holding up the flipper for only about 4 min. It just up and gave out.

Same thing happened to me about a month into owning the game. Same reason. I took a phone call. I tried to look up my original post but lost it. Anyways, It is a transistor on the driver board. Call your distributor and they will send you out a new driver board. Good learning experience tearing into the backbox and removing mainboards.

Many will advise you to replace it with a better transistor (soldering on the mainboard), but I chose to have it replaced under warranty. My distributor and Stern took good care of me. No complaints. Stuff happens. AND AC/DC is an awesome game no question.

#15 6 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

Interesting. Something is keeping this coil energized at power up.

The transistor that drives it is shorted. Always giving power to coil, until it melts or blows the fuse.

LTG : )™

#16 6 years ago

Arcade,

Q15, you are correct. Yes, if you can do this it would be the best move. I simply didn't want to solder on my new machine. But someday I am sure I will have to.

Glad you found the problem.

#17 6 years ago
Quoted from Geremy13:

Same thing happened to me about a month into owning the game. Same reason. I took a phone call. I tried to look up my original post but lost it. Anyways, It is a transistor on the driver board. Call your distributor and they will send you out a new driver board. Good learning experience tearing into the backbox and removing mainboards.
Many will advise you to replace it with a better transistor (soldering on the mainboard), but I chose to have it replaced under warranty. My distributor and Stern took good care of me. No complaints. Stuff happens. AND AC/DC is an awesome game no question.

I knew I had read a couple of threads about this problem with STERN.
Pretty sure it happened to Blondetall as well.
My machine is way out of warranty but I am good with soldering parts.
Just need to know what TIP to use and I should be golden.
All the ones in the manual seem to be TIP 122. Not sure what is rated higher to use instead.

#19 6 years ago
Quoted from dgoett:

BUK9529-100B
I bought some on mouser.
Exact same issue on a Metallica and this fixed it.

You guys are great.
I have a local parts store that hopefully has some in stock. I have to have this up an running by Sunday.

I have never seen one without the tab up top like the one in the mouser link before.
I will check with my parts supplier, but may have to go with whatever they have in stock.

#20 6 years ago
Quoted from Arcade:

All the ones in the manual seem to be TIP 122.

Check the number on the transistor - it may be a IRL540 or IRL580.

LTG : )™

#21 6 years ago

When you get them, they have the tab.
CLick on the data sheet and there's a photo at the top of what it really looks like.
Just have them look up the specs and buy a beefier type.

#22 6 years ago
Quoted from dgoett:

When you get them, they have the tab.
CLick on the data sheet and there's a photo at the top of what it really looks like.
Just have them look up the specs and buy a beefier type.

I thought it was strange the photo had no tab at the top.
I actually thought for a second there was a new type of Mosfet on the market. lol

#23 6 years ago

Bought a TIP 122 because that was all my local place had.
However it does not fix my problem.
The flipper is no longer always energized at power up but does not flip during a game

Turns out the writing on that transistor is the following, not TIP 122.
It says
P 40NF102
CZ066
MAR 132

#24 6 years ago

That transistor (P40NF102) is 40A 100V N channel. Supposedly the correct one is 22NE10L which is 22A 100v N channel.

#25 6 years ago

Thanks Wolf. If Radio Shack does not have those I will have to steal the one off my shaker motor spot at Q8 so the game will be playable.

#26 6 years ago

I will be very surprised if Rat Shack has those. I usually get mine from GPE.

#27 6 years ago

Yep. They did not have anything close. My electronics store is closed tomorrow, so I guess I will be stealing the Shaker Motor one at Q8.
Don't really see another option at this point for a temp. fix.

#28 6 years ago

Just make sure they're compatible to swap. Try this link.

http://www.alltransistors.com/

#29 6 years ago

Yes. Transistors 1 through 16 are high power transistors.
17 through 32 are low current and use the standard TIP 122's
So 8 should be compatible with 15

#30 6 years ago

It worked. Left flipper is up and running.
No shaker for a few days though.

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