(Topic ID: 190610)

Abra Ca Dabra Scoring Stops During Game

By Playdium

6 years ago


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  • 12 posts
  • 4 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 years ago by newmantjn
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

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#1 6 years ago

Occasionally, scoring will stop after a rollover is energized. When this occurs the out hole kicker doesn't energize, nor do the pop bumpers score. Flippers work, play field stays illuminated as well as back glass.
The roll over relays do energize and the pop bumpers kick.
By raising the play field and manually energizing the "O" Ball Return Relay, this will clear the issue.
However I can never get this condition to come in with the play field raised. Could be a coincidence, but I really aren't sure.

Any help?

#2 6 years ago

This problem might be related to a "gateway" score motor switch that sends power to the 10, 100, 1000 point relay coils. Do you have the schematic for the machine? I know on late 70s multi-player Gottlieb machines, the score motor switch would be 1C. If you have the schematic, check to see what score motor switch is included in the 10, 100, 1000 point relay coil circuits.

#3 6 years ago

Not sure how to pursue this. Are you saying the contact for 1C is not gapped properly? Attached is the portion of the schematic.

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#4 6 years ago

Look at the NC switch in the bottom right. That is the likely culprit. What is the issue exactly?

NC switches are generally more problematic than NO, at least in my experience.

Potential Causes
1. Dirty - most likely
2. Poorly gapped, not making solid contact. Not wiping on apply. - pretty likely as well
3. Motor stopping in the wrong spot. - Bad "home" switch adjustment. Bad and/or missing brake switch. A very possible issue as well.
4. S & L switch location messed up. It happens, probably not the issue though.
5. Loose wire, cold solder joint. Possible as well.

Stick your nose in there with a strong light and see what you see.

#5 6 years ago

Yes, check score motor switch 1C with the blue/black wire. Clean the switch and make sure it's adjusted properly. This switch would be normally closed (NC) when the game is started, on ball 1 with the ball in the shooter lane...

#6 6 years ago

i had a similar issue, scoring stops. i believe it was 1c as well. in my case the score motor wouldnt complete the full 120 degree rotation. id touch the contact and it would complete. the pad was loose in the finger and the final fix was to replace the contact.

#7 6 years ago

I did check the switch contact at 1C, (BL-BLK). It did need to be a little more snug at point of contact. I removed the score motor assembly when I went through this machine. Polished the assembly and cleaned and re-gapped all switches. The motor itself was shot due to a badly worn fiber gear. Got a replacement from Steve.
The machine performed great for a day or two, then the loss of power began. I have since been playing it with no further problems. Thanks to you guys for your suggestions.
I also did a complete breakdown of all of the lower board relays. Disassembled them and put the plastics in the ultrasonic, hand polished the relay brackets. Lots of time went into that, but the end result is rewarding.
I saw a video on this and that's what gave me the idea. Was is "newmantjn"s video?

#8 6 years ago
Quoted from Playdium:

Was is "newmantjn"s video?

Yes, that is my video. A guy on RGP was asking about it a few years ago, and I happened to be in the middle of a Jacks Open restoration, so I shot it.

You experienced the downside of doing that. This technique is Pinball Restoration 530. Not Pinball Restoration 101. There are a ton of switches and if you don't get them all right...you will be out troubleshooting. And you usually miss one or two. But..if you didn't do it, you would likely have one or two that need to be hunted down anyway.

On the plus side, you end up with a game that looks almost new, inside and out. My goal was to make it look like a HOU game that sat for 30 years in somebodies basement. I usually come close to that. You can't make them look new, and if you do manage that, it can look a bit odd.

Also, you proactively find a lot of issues. If you never take the stepper apart, you'll never find out that the coil stop is broken, etc. So when I go through a game, I go through it pretty good.

Make no mistake about it, relays in the ultrasonic, sanding the bottom board etc., is all about making it look good. There are a couple of camps on the Dremel. I love it, but some people....not so much.

Here is the video

Anyway, post a picture of your INSIDE work. I love a game all cleaned up in the inside.

#9 6 years ago

I will strip and sand a bottom board but... I draw the line at ultrasonic cleaning all the relays. Life is too short.

#10 6 years ago
Quoted from pinhead52:

Life is too short.

....for dirty relays.

#11 6 years ago

Here are some pics. Still chasing a "gremlin" on the lamp power that feeds the "AS" relay. Pop Bumpers and Target Lamps are not lighting at times. Checked the "AS" switch and can manually advance it to illuminate those lamps, but sometimes during game play they don't. Cleaned and gapped contacts on the "AS" as well as the contact plate. Possibly a score motor contact...

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#12 6 years ago

Looks GREAT!!

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