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On #1, is your sequence bank resetting promptly? Do the 1,2,3,4 lights re-light during the first batch of bonus awards or the second batch? For example, if the bonus is currently 2000 and you complete the sequence, do your 1,2,3,4 lights turn back on while you receive the first 2000 bonus or to they turn back on during the additional (error) 2000 bonus?
Also, the left and right outlanes score the correct (non duplicated) bonus?
For problem 1:
Check the 5B switch indicated in the schematic. This switch *SHOULD* cut off the G (500 point) relay prematurely when the last rollover is hit (completing the sequence). When I jumper this switch closed on my machine, I get the exact behavior you describe.
During correct operation, this switch should open when the sequence is complete and close when the sequence bank is reset.
AbraAdvBonusRelay (resized).jpgFor #3, first look over your Target Bank Spot Relay (“I” relay), located underneath the playfield. Is is clean and stepping smoothly? Are the wipers aligned and do they step to the centers of the segments on the two circuit card "discs" on either side of the relay?
Also, reseat the jones plug that connects this relay to the underside of the playfield.
More details regarding this type of stepper (Gottlieb "AS" Relay) is here (search for AS relay):
http://www.pinrepair.com/em/index2.htm#steps
That "I (1 : 1)" switch in post #2 controls the scoring - it rides on a cam between the two rotors on the "I" relay. Chances are that this switch needs adjustment. There's also a second switch that controls the "1000 When Lit" pop lights, sounds like that one is working.
It's not the pop bumper hit that advances the I relay, it's the scoring itself that advances "I". Until the 1000 point scoring is working, the I relay won't advance when the *lit* pop is hit. Check out that "I (1 : 1)" switch first.
OK, for #3 check out all these switches on the back of both target banks... each dropping target briefly closes its switch pair. They trigger the G (500 pt) and E (Adv Bonus) relays and from there, those two relays battle it out as to whether 500 points or bonus points are scored. If some of those switches are out of adjustment, I could see that particular target scoring 500 pts instead of bonus (because the switch that triggers the E relay never closed).
IMG_1773 (resized).jpgCan you look at the E and G relays and tell me what they do for each type of target hit?
Does only G pull when the target is supposed to award 500?
Do both E and G pull when a lit (bonus) target is hit? Do they pull for the same amount of time?
Is your error behavior the same when the game is started (1000 bonus)? Or does it only start after the first in-game target reset (2000 - 5000 bonus)
It's got to be the I relay, or the drop target switches... woz's test clears the motor switch.
Look at the I relay closely, are the wipers on both sides at the same positions? Do all the solder joints look good (especially the commons)? Both circuit cards tightly screwed down?
Try this test - when you have a target that has failed, push it up from the bottom (let it lock in the up position, it should score again), then drop again (and score) and repeat a few times - does it ever score the correct bonus value?
Might the problem be more general, such as "Once a target is down in the (or either) bank, bonus scoring stops working correctly"?
1) After bank reset, have you tried knocking down a 500 pt target and THEN the lit bonus target?
2) After bank reset, have you tried knocking down a 500 pt target and THEN the lit bonus target in the OTHER bank?
Do the bonus targets work in these cases?
Thanks!
One other quick thing to check is the 10 point switches mounted to the target units (they extend upwards behind the drop target rubber). On my machine, the front leaf of the switch comes awfully close to shorting to the target unit. How do yours look?
If you take your finger (gloved if you prefer) and mash the switch pair behind the target bank closed (which simulates the target drop), is there any difference? Leave all targets up for this test...
> Does one of those switches on top control the scoring of the targets?
No, just pop scoring and lights
Sounds like we need to resort to jumpers next...
One side is lights, other side is scoring. Scoring side is the one with the OR+BLK common.
Sounds like an issue with the wiper and/or disc (A-8933) on the scoring side of the I relay?
I'd put a shine on that 8933 disc with some 200+ grit sandpaper, lightly clean the wiper too. Reassemble and test. If it fixes the problem, finish by lubing the disc.
Quoted from ChipS:I can't read the schematic like you can. Is there some other place that it is supposed to go from the "I" relay to the target switches to activate the "E" (Advance bonus) relay? In other words, what are we bypassing with the jumper wires going from the "I" relay to the score motor?
Using the example below, when you connect the WH-BL at the drop target switch to the OR+BLK at the motor switch, you are bypassing the wiring going from the drop targets to the I relay, the entire I relay (wiper, disc), and the wiring going down to the motor switch (including any jones plugs, daisy chain solder joints). When you switched the WH-BL test point to the I relay disc, you were no longer testing the wiring from the drop to the I relay but were still testing everything else.
AbraDropBonus (resized).jpgAnyone else having problems attaching images to posts? The image is blank after I send the post and I have to edit the post, delete the image, re-attach and save changes to get the image to show correctly.
Quoted from ChipS:DaMoib, you were absolutely right! I used the continuity tester on the disc, connecting one end to C (the OR-BLK) wire and the other one to wherever the other contact on the wiper was at that particular time. I kept touching spot (0-9) and was only getting continuity occasionally. How could that be? I moved the tester across the wiper and even then would lose continuity. If I pushed down on the back of the wiper - hard - I could usually get continuity. So I put a tiny drop of solder on the back of the wiper at each contact, then reattached everything, screwed it down real tight and now it works!
I will post photos later, just in case someone else runs into this problem down the road (God, I hope not!).
THANKS to everyone for your help! DaMoib - I owe you one!
Cool! So the wiper wasn't bowed enough to make reliable contact across the two traces? I wonder what other AS relay-haters do? New wiper, bend existing wiper, add solder bumps?
Quoted from ChipS:MATCHING
One last issue while you're all still reading this: The "F" relay (also known as the 00-90 unit relay) which determines the "Match" feature. It is also an AS relay and it appears to be working fine. But I have never gotten credit for a match. My score matches the match number, but it doesn't give me a credit. I'm guessing this might be the same problem with the AS relay? Or is there another possible reason for it not awarding a match?
Same deal, the light side of the F relay sounds like it's working, need to test the replay side. Do you see it on the right side of the schematic?
A little tip, use your jumper to short the F relay lightbulb side (WH - white wire is common) to the head general illumination wiring BLK-RED. It will illuminate the match numbers (and the Game Over light) throughout the game and help you align the score with the match number (as well as testing all match bulbs).
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