(Topic ID: 211305)

About to pickup my first pin and have a few dumb questions...


By Pinless

1 year ago



Topic Stats

  • 48 posts
  • 22 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 year ago by wayout440
  • No one calls this topic a favorite

You

Linked Games

No games have been linked to this topic.

    #1 1 year ago

    I’m about to go and pickup a Maverick. The owner is not a pin person, and I’m new to this as well.

    What’s the best way to move it? Head folded down? Or take it off? What tools do I need to take with me?

    I have a truck or a 4Runner I can use to move it. There’s a slight chance of rain this afternoon so I’d prefer to use the 4R with the seats down. Plus it has a rear sliding stray that might make it easy to unload.

    Also there’s no key, any issues without having it? I figured I could drill out the lock and replace it.

    #2 1 year ago

    Head down, legs off, all your tools.

    #3 1 year ago
    Quoted from mikat11:

    Head down, legs off, all your tools.

    Thanks. I have a lot of tools. It would be nice to narrow it down a little. Is there a common size of leg bolts? Special tool required to lay the head down?

    #4 1 year ago

    There's no dumb questions on Pinside. As an absolute minimum you must remove the balls. Loose steel balls crashing around inside can easily smash vital plastics. Also, if it has a coin tray, take that out as well as any other loose items someone may have stored behind the main door. You can then open the backbox door which will usually need a key. This may well have two bolts that stop the top box from folding down to rest against the bottom playfield cabinet. Remove these and gently lower the back box down onto the cabinet and use a blanket or something else soft between them so you don't dent the side rails. Remove the legs. Tip it back so it is resting on its broad end and then if you have a sack barrow, use this with a piece of cardboard on to move it about.

    Best of luck and enjoy your new hobby.

    #5 1 year ago

    If I remember right it’s 5/8 on legs 9/16 on head.

    #6 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pinless:

    I’m about to go and pickup a Maverick. The owner is not a pin person, and I’m new to this as well.
    What’s the best way to move it? Head folded down? Or take it off? What tools do I need to take with me?
    I have a truck or a 4Runner I can use to move it. There’s a slight chance of rain this afternoon so I’d prefer to use the 4R with the seats down. Plus it has a rear sliding stray that might make it easy to unload.
    Also there’s no key, any issues without having it? I figured I could drill out the lock and replace it.

    Fold the head down (I'd put a towel under it so that it doesn't dent the side rails if you hit any bumps) and bring a ratchet/socket set (most leg bolts are 5/8). If there's a chance of rain, I'd so bring a tarp. If you're going in a pickup truck, I'd also bring a strap or two (along with cardboard to rest against the straps).

    Oh, and a hand truck.

    Have fun!

    #7 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pinless:

    Thanks. I have a lot of tools. It would be nice to narrow it down a little. Is there a common size of leg bolts? Special tool required to lay the head down?

    Just take an adjustable spanner and you're good to go.

    #8 1 year ago

    This isn't a bad example to follow:

    #9 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pinless:

    Thanks. I have a lot of tools. It would be nice to narrow it down a little. Is there a common size of leg bolts? Special tool required to lay the head down?

    Leg bolts are almost all 5/8" socket.

    Maverick is DataEast/Sega, so the head has a twist lock that uses a hex wrench from the back

    Unload all balls
    Unlock the head and lay it down on the cabinet with some padding between it and the head
    Strap the head down to the cabinet so it doesn't move. No wires need to be unplugged or (heaven forbid, cut)
    Unbolt the rear legs and gently lower the back of the cabinet and then stand it on it's butt end
    Take off the front legs
    Strap it to a dolly to move it around, DON'T even let just the weight keep it in place

    RussM

    #10 1 year ago

    A Maverick will have the 5/16" allen key backbox latch. Hopefully the owner has the key, if not you will need one to lower the backbox. Oh, and for keeping the head fixed down while moving the pin, I like using plastic stretch wrap to wrap the machine, less prone to slipping/damage than a strap imo.

    #11 1 year ago

    Go here and download a PDF of the game manual

    http://www.ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=1561

    Read it, especially the first sections which show how to set the game up (do the reverse to pack it up), and how to raise and lower the playfield correctly.

    Also has all of the settings info, etc, etc.

    Check the area in the backbox where the AA batteries go.

    Very often the batteries leak and have bad corrosion problems

    RussM

    #12 1 year ago

    Gonna have to drill those locks. Start with the coin door. Hopefully the back box key is hangin in there .

    #13 1 year ago

    Thanks for all of the info!

    With no key, is the only way to get the balls out involve drilling the lock and opening the coin door?

    Will a typical 5/16” Allen key work, or does it have to be extra long?

    #14 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pinless:

    Thanks for all of the info!
    With no key, is the only way to get the balls out involve drilling the lock and opening the coin door?
    Will a typical 5/16” Allen key work, or does it have to be extra long?

    A standard 5/16 should do just fine.

    Yeah, without a key, drilling is your only option as far as getting the balls out of there.

    #15 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pinless:

    Thanks for all of the info!
    With no key, is the only way to get the balls out involve drilling the lock and opening the coin door?
    Will a typical 5/16” Allen key work, or does it have to be extra long?

    The factory hex wrench looks like this:

    https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=590

    The key to open the backbox (not necessary to unlock and drop the head on this game) is very often hanging on a wire hook on the inside of the coin door.

    The coin door locks are usually cheap and weak; the easiest way to get them open is to run a sharp drill bit right into the center until the hasp drops off from the back.

    The coin door lock probably looks like this: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=20

    RM

    #16 1 year ago
    Quoted from Phat_Jay:

    If I remember right it’s 5/8 on legs 9/16 on head.

    This is typical. I’ve sometimes seen odd size leg bolts though. I typically make sure to have a 5/8, 9/16 and 1/2 inch open end set and a flat + phillips screwdriver with me just because you never know.

    Oh yeah a hex wrench as well. Doesn’t have to be pinball specific but does need to be long enough to go deep and give you good leverage... but this is only for newer games.

    #17 1 year ago

    If the key to the backbox is completely missing, take out the two bolts holding the lock in; they are usually torx security heads

    https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2368

    The torx heads are usually the "star with center nipple" type

    RM

    #18 1 year ago

    Let’s say there is some visible signs of corrosion, how much would you ask the seller to come off of the asking price?

    I know there’s lots of variables here but just ballpark

    #19 1 year ago

    A corroded MPU board can be 100-150 to repair professionally and 300 to replace completely

    Plus shipping

    RM

    #20 1 year ago

    Good to know, thanks!

    #21 1 year ago

    Are there any unobtainium parts that I need to make sure are there and operable?

    #22 1 year ago
    Quoted from Milltown:

    Gonna have to drill those locks. Start with the coin door. Hopefully the back box key is hangin in there .

    +1. If the owner doesn't have the key you will need to drill the locks. Start with the coin door lock and pray that the key for the backbox is hanging inside the coin door or somewhere else inside. If you need to drill the backbox lock to get to the screws to fold the backhoe down, that lock is close to the top of the translite - a tough angle

    #23 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pinless:

    Good to know, thanks!

    You can see where the batteries go - upper left of the CPU board

    http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=File:DE-0262-2-CPU.JPG

    RM

    #24 1 year ago
    Quoted from RussMyers:

    If the key to the backbox is completely missing, take out the two bolts holding the lock in; they are usually torx security heads
    https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=2368
    The torx heads are usually the "star with center nipple" type
    RM

    Harbor Freight sells the Torx Security set you need to remove the lockplate in the backbox if you decide to do that instead of drilling the backbox lock. Good luck...have fun...and welcome to the madness.

    #25 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pinless:

    Are there any unobtainium parts that I need to make sure are there and operable?

    Yes, Maverick is one of only 4 games that used the "double-size" DMD video display

    Finding one is usually a 400.00 or more problem

    Make sure the display looks good, nice and bright, no bad pixels, etc

    A bad display on that game is a problem

    RM

    #26 1 year ago

    On another note if the display is bad, don't fret. The ColorDMD that everybody is getting won't work on the those huge DMD displays. They are putting them out soon though in that size with those games supported.

    #27 1 year ago
    Quoted from hool10:

    On another note if the display is bad, don't fret. The ColorDMD that everybody is getting won't work on the those huge DMD displays. They are putting them out soon though in that size with those games supported.

    Yes, but again, ColorDMD is also 400.00

    RM

    #28 1 year ago

    I hope someone has a dolly or hand truck.

    Be sure someone knows how to unload the balls.

    Also I would pick up roll of shrink wrap to wrap head to body. Home depot. Lastly I would label the legs.
    Good luck.

    #29 1 year ago
    Quoted from indybru:

    I hope someone has a dolly or hand truck.
    Be sure someone knows how to unload the balls.
    Also I would pick up roll of shrink wrap to wrap head to body. Home depot. Lastly I would label the legs.
    Good luck.

    It’s probably safe to say that neither of us know how to unload the balls.

    Is there a trick to it once the lock is drilled out?

    #30 1 year ago

    If the machine is not going to be upended onto its back and hand trucked, I wouldn't worry about getting inside it to remove the balls etc. until it was at my house. I would take the legs off and lower the backbox head. Data East so you need that allen key everyone is telling you about and a wrench for leg bolts. Then I would get it home and drill the lock etc. IMO if you and the other guy are not pin guys, I would not try to do all that stuff at his house. Best case scenario you take the balls out etc., but this is not the best case scenario.

    Make sure it works and welcome to the club!

    #31 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pinless:

    It’s probably safe to say that neither of us know how to unload the balls.
    Is there a trick to it once the lock is drilled out?

    Not really.

    There is a spring-loaded bar you move over and the lock-bar comes off

    Then slide the glass out, which is tempered, so don't put it edge-down on anything hard like concrete or boom.

    Carpet is OK

    The balls are probably in the trough and I use my fingers or a magnetic tool to pull the balls out where they come out into the shooter lane

    RM

    #32 1 year ago
    Quoted from RussMyers:

    so don't put it edge-down on anything hard like concrete or boom.

    I've been putting glasses on my basement concrete floor for years and have never had a problem

    #33 1 year ago
    Quoted from QuietEarp:

    If the machine is not going to be upended onto its back and hand trucked, I wouldn't worry about getting inside it to remove the balls etc. until it was at my house. I would take the legs off and lower the backbox head. Data East so you need that allen key everyone is telling you about and a wrench for leg bolts. Then I would get it home and drill the lock etc. IMO if you and the other guy are not pin guys, I would not try to do all that stuff at his house. Best case scenario you take the balls out etc., but this is not the best case scenario.
    Make sure it works and welcome to the club!

    Good points. I’ll just keep it horizontal and use padding between the head and then shrink wrap the whole thing.

    I bought some 3 wheel dollies from HF and hope they make moving it a little easier

    #34 1 year ago

    Enjoy and make sure to make room for pin #2

    #35 1 year ago

    I can live without removing the balls frankly. I’ve had to move dozens of games or had them delivered to me with balls still inside and as far as I can tell it’s never resulted in damage. It’s a big pain in the ass to drill you just want to haul this game out. If front door key is missing I’ll just grin and bare it unless it’s HUO or something, and it usually
    Ain’t.

    The bare minimum here is you need the 5/16 Allen key so you can fold the head down and a socket set 5/8 for the leg bold. Bring one. You can never count on the seller to have any of this stuff.

    Bring a pair of pliers or adjustable rent. You never know if this game will have the wrong size leg bolts.

    You just want to get this game out.

    So bare minimum here for a maverick-

    5/16 backbox Allen key

    Adjustable wrench

    Strap or plastic wrap to secure head

    Piece of cardboard to put between glass and head when you fold over and secure.

    #36 1 year ago
    Quoted from wayout440:

    I've been putting glasses on my basement concrete floor for years and have never had a problem

    I have no doubt that is true, and the roughness of concrete can vary quite a lot.

    I also saw a guy pull out his playfield glass and lean it against a wall with a concrete floor and it exploded immediately.

    Happened 10 feet away from me.

    On tempered glass the edges are the most vulnerable.

    YMMV.

    RussM

    #37 1 year ago

    Long story short the pin has a few issues, but the owner is going to have them all fixed before I pick it up. New locks, New rubbers, replace bulbs that are out, fix drop targets that aren’t working, etc...

    Are LEDs worth a $150 upgrade for a maverick?

    We spent an hour or so looking at his $15 million car collection! . 959, F40, GT40’s , 918s, Carrera GTs , GT350, GT3, GT2, Judge, etc........ I’ve never seen anything like it

    #38 1 year ago

    Sounds like a standup guy, and one of those more enjoyable transactions. I've met some great & interesting people buying and selling pins.
    $150 is not unreasonable for LEDs, although the cheap ones tend to flicker or ghost. Some bulb sockets are a pain to get to. If you must, please stick to color matched inserts and white everywhere else. Colors in the backbox don't look good.
    What a great day...and a great choice for your first pin!

    #39 1 year ago
    Quoted from wayout440:

    I've been putting glasses on my basement concrete floor for years and have never had a problem

    I was at the PHOF one day playing Whitewater and my ball got stuck. Attendant came over and slid out the glass and started to set it down on the concrete floor. Attendant was super careful and slow about it and had it perfectly level to the floor. I started to put my hand up to say don’t do that!!! It literally exploded the second it touched the floor as I was opening my mouth. Glass EVERYWHERE. Whitewater was shut down now with glass all over the place under most every game in that aisle at the PHOF. So my point is you have been lucky. When they break it’s a true explosion and glass gets everywhere in your game. At least put a blanket or something soft down first.

    #40 1 year ago
    Quoted from wayout440:

    Colors in the backbox don't look good.

    Opinion

    #42 1 year ago
    Quoted from woody76:

    Enjoy and make sure to make room for pin #2

    It’s funny you say that. I already got the green light to get AC/DC premium VE next month. We will soon be a 2 pin house.

    MMr hopefully next year! I think I’ve contracted the pin addiction

    #43 1 year ago

    Supposedly the tech told the owner it would be $800-900 to get the Maverick up and running, so he’s decided not to sell it.

    I have a feeling the tech made an “as is” offer and it was sold out from under me.

    #44 1 year ago

    Sorry it went that way. But the first rule of Pinball:

    "The deal isn't done till the sellers house is receding in your rear-view mirror."

    There will be other deals.

    #45 1 year ago
    Quoted from Pinless:

    Supposedly the tech told the owner it would be $800-900 to get the Maverick up and running, so he’s decided not to sell it.
    I have a feeling the tech made an “as is” offer and it was sold out from under me.

    Welcome to pinball.

    Truthfully fixing them is half the fun. Buy it broken if the deal is reasonable. Plenty of help on here to assist you.

    #46 1 year ago
    Quoted from brainmegaphone:

    Welcome to pinball.
    Truthfully fixing them is half the fun. Buy it broken if the deal is reasonable. Plenty of help on here to assist you.

    I tried but he said he can’t sell it. I don’t quite understand it, especially considering he’s a multimillionaire. What’s a few hundred dollars on a 25 year old broken pinball machine?

    #47 1 year ago

    I’m just going to go all out and buy NIB for our first machine. I don’t like playing these kind of games and having to check 10 different websites waiting for a decent pin to pop up.

    #48 1 year ago

    I want to see a Maverick NIB

    Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
    $ 99.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 99.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 16.95
    $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 7,499.00
    Pinball Machine
    Classic Game Rooms
    From: $ 12.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    £ 29.00
    Lighting - Led
    PinballToys
    $ 10.00
    Cabinet - Other
    Docquest Pinball Mods
    $ 9.95
    Apparel - Unisex
    Pinball Wheezer
    $ 66.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 159.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 86.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 39.99
    Lighting - Interactive
    Lee's Parts
    $ 9.99
    Eproms
    Matt's Basement Arcade
    $ 128.00
    Playfield - Other
    ModFather Pinball Mods
    $ 119.95
    Cabinet - Shooter Rods
    Super Skill Shot Shop
    $ 229.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 99.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 99.99
    Lighting - Other
    Lighted Pinball Mods
    $ 79.00
    $ 1.95
    Various Novelties
    Pinball Wheezer
    $ 25.00
    Displays
    Pappy's Pinball Palace
    $ 7.50
    Playfield - Decals
    Doc's Pinball Shop
    $ 69.99
    Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
    Lighted Pinball Mods

    Hey there! Got a moment?

    Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside