(Topic ID: 274002)

A Whirlwind that looks like it went through a whirlwind! (Restore)

By HydrogenHuman

1 year ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 135 posts
  • 37 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 27 days ago by Pin-Pilot
  • Topic is favorited by 22 Pinsiders

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#14 1 year ago

I may have a spare WW head if yours looks too far gone to save... then again that whole cabinet looks beat... what's your plan for it?

#70 1 year ago

My fuses were even more corroded... I ended up replacing all the fuses and holders, just to be done with it

#81 1 year ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

Really? You think the total cost will end up being that much? I don't think so, personally. If I did think that, I never would have bought it lol.
The playfield I knew would be a big expense, if not the biggest expense out of the restoration. The next most expensive thing would be the radcals/decals plus wood and paint for the cabinet. If most of the boards work well (still have to see), then I would think that wouldn't cost much to get things up and running.
I'll be honest, I actually think I could restore this machine for $3000-3500, that's including the initial purchase cost for $1000 (So $2000-$2500 total in parts and such). I personally don't see a $5000 total cost. Maybe if I'm counting tools, equipment, etc. sure, but tools can be re-used on many other machines and I already have a lot of the tools.

I agree, this looks like it'll be 2500-3500 when complete, plus a lot of elbow work. But you'll have a nice game that you're very satisfied with, for around market value.

1 week later
#101 1 year ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

Wow, how did I not see that! Thanks!
So I would take one connector of the DMM and put it on the 100 Volt, and where would the other go? To a ground?

Pin 5 is ground

9 months later
#111 4 months ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

I don't know wtf happened here. Does anyone know if this is what the spinning discs look like without the stickers on them? Looks like someone finger painted some makeshift art!

They should be flat, black plastic underneath. Maybe someone tried to stick some glue in there to hold them down?

2 weeks later
#123 3 months ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

So what exactly would I do then to avoid having that happen? The last thing I need is to wreck this new playfield!

get it recleared before installation?

Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

Also, my new Power Board from Pinball PCB came in and...the display still doesn't work. F&^%$!
So in that case it must either be the connector cables, or the display board itself has burned out. Is it possible to order new connector cables online?

I forget, has the glass confirmed to be good (not outgassed/broken)?

You can get a new ribbon cable online, they're generic. The other cables you can just check continuity and/or repin

#126 3 months ago
Quoted from HydrogenHuman:

How would I test to see if it has been outgassed? It could be that, but I would like to confirm it somehow.

I don't really know of any way to tell. If it won't display anything in an otherwise working game, voltages are good, etc, then I assume the glass is bad and I replace the display

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