Quoted from Gornkleschnitzer:Most likely the same polished steel that other games use for their guide walls. My recent understanding is that stainless isn't the holy grail of metals and can have corrosion issues. Thicker would be better as well; the inlane guides and habitrail deflectors are close to 1/16" and are a lot more resilient to bending, and I probably should have used that thickness for everything.
PBL uses some very nice (and shiny) steel for their ball trough assembly, so probably something like that. I will be looking into how to acquire such a thing for my next build, for which I am planning on using flat steel for not only the ball guides, but for the habitrails as well, as inspired by Quetzal's "Captain Nemo."That looks amazing and I am going to seriously consider doing that on all my restorations. The stainless I am currently using was a little rough as sent to me, but I took a wire wheel to it to smooth it out. It's actually pretty shiny, although nowhere near your mirror pic. I assumed this process would have removed most of the rough/loose grain, but I guess I was wrong.
The grained stainless is just cheaper, nothing special about it to my knowledge, and the ball makes a mess of it over time. That's why I don't understand why people go out of their way to REGRAIN it, when it would be much better performing (and looking) going the other direction and mirror-finishing it. If you use a couple buffing wheels and step through the brown, white, green rouge, you can get the ball guides super mirror-finish shiny and super resistant to ball trails.
When you get it all shiny, how about bringing the machine out to one of the west coast shows like Golden State Pinball or Pin-a-gogo or CAX? I'd like to play it, but it's been too far away!