I'll do this in 3 posts here.
I finally had the chance to try these 3 repair techniques on one game. Somehow they all 3 worked great the first time, no problems.

Solarez:
I had read previous posts about using Solrez for insert leveling, some worked out and others didn't. I bought the variety pack of Solarez so I could choose the best one with lowest viscosity.

The inserts were lightly scuffed up and cleaned with alcohol before using the Solarez. It was applied by slowly drizzling it onto the insert in a jellyroll pattern from inside out. A toothpick was used to convince it to cover all the insert near the edges; surface tension had to be overcome. The 1 insert had a tall meniscus while the 2 insert had a flatter meniscus.
A UV flashlight was used for 3 minutes, moving it around and up and down for even coverage.
The result was a hard, dry surface that looked great. Just to be sure I put them out in the sun for 15 minutes but I don't think it was needed.
The inserts were then wet sanded gently and final coated with Future Polish for the final shine and protection.
That was the quickest insert leveling I had ever done and saved the original graphics.

insert begin sanding (resized).jpg

Insert final (resized).jpg

insert with Solarez before (resized).jpg

UV flashlight (resized).jpg

Solarez tubes (resized).jpg

RetroBrite:
All the white posts were treated with Retrobrite using a 9% hydrogen peroxide concentration. They were left in the sun in a baggie for 2 days.
It may look like most of the before posts were just dirty but after cleaning they were very dull and still had a lot of brown/yellow discoloring.
All that disappeared after Retrobrite. These do look almost new.
Another success for Retrobrite.

Alan

posts after (resized).jpg

posts before (resized).jpg

Reverse Decals:
I normally use my reverse decal technique on backglass repair and repro plastics but I decided to try it on pop bumper repair.
People sometimes will use the stiff mylar pop protector with paint on the backside to cover up damage on the playfield. That is good if you have a single color under the pop bumper. If you have a graphic pattern then it is more difficult.

On this game I used the clear stiff mylar protectors but with a reverse decal on the underside that would add a graphic that goes with the game theme. In this case it is the checkered flags.

The reverse decal technique has been described previously and I have it on my webpage. It makes a decal that can be seen from underneath a clear material rather than on top, which is why it works on backglass repair and plastics.

Alan

checker2 (resized).JPG

pop decal (resized).jpg

pop repair before (resized).jpg

pop repair final (resized).jpg

Twin Win by Bally.