(Topic ID: 257665)

A Quicksilver itch, from scratch


By djblouw

37 days ago



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  • 90 posts
  • 29 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by djblouw
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There are 90 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 37 days ago

I'm embarking on another restore, and at the request of a few, will be showing the progress here.

This one will be unlike any others that I've done so far, as I'll be transforming one game into a different game. As the title implies, this will be a Stern Quicksilver, that will be scratch built (well, mostly), meaning the game did not start out as a QS.

My original intent was to retheme the base game (a Stern Dracula) when I picked it up as a project game. I know an awesome artist pyramidschemebar and was planning to make something unique. But, once Mirco announced that new playfields would be made for QS, I decided I needed to build one.

Over the course of three month I put together a full list of all the parts I would need, and where to buy them. I set my budget and started in.

So here we go!

#2 37 days ago

Good luck! It will be fun to see if you choose to make small enhancements or follow the original as exactly as possible.

#3 37 days ago

So here's my jumping off point.

Dracula wasn't in terrible condition. But it wasn't in good condition either. The PF had major planking and wear. The backglass was flaked and missing paint, the mpu had battery damage, and the cabinet is just an ugly color of pink (as it came from the factory). And I think some squirrels had lived in it for a short time too.

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But, Dracula was a perfect fit to transform. It has both a 3 and 4 bank drop, and no one will miss one Dracula (that looks like Marilyn Manson). So, on we go.

#4 37 days ago

Poor Dracula

#5 37 days ago

Woohoo! Glad this is being shared! djblouw does absolutely amazing work!

#6 37 days ago
Quoted from balt:

Good luck! It will be fun to see if you choose to make small enhancements or follow the original as exactly as possible.

Since it's not originally a QS, it won't be made bone stock. There will be "improvements" as I see fit. Kinda in the essence of my Centaur:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/patz-2019-official-pinball-at-the-zoo-thread-april-25-26-27/page/10#post-4967029

Quoted from zacaj:

Poor Dracula

I know. I really hate seeing any machine not exist any more. But, Dracula was such a wreck, no one would put in the money to make it nice again, so it will live on as a different Stern game.

Quoted from Tsskinne:

Woohoo! Glad this is being shared! djblouw does absolutely amazing work!

Thanks!! I figure this would get some other people going on some of their projects as well

#7 37 days ago

Following!

#8 37 days ago

I might need some dracula plastics if your selling them.

#9 37 days ago

The only probl;em with Dracula, is that's it's awful. More power to you.

#10 37 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

The only probl;em with Dracula, is that's it's awful. More power to you.

Shoots pretty well, but the sounds on the other hand...

#11 37 days ago
Quoted from Tsskinne:

Shoots pretty well, but the sounds on the other hand...

Fucking A, I had no idea what people meant by the sounds till I played one; sweet christ.

#12 37 days ago
Quoted from Mitch:

I might need some dracula plastics if your selling them.

I'll probably have a bunch of stuff for sale when I'm done with the conversion--pop bumper assemblies, flipper assemblies, random plastics, switches, post, etc. I won't know until I'm done, but if you've got a specific request, let me know, and I'll see what I've got.

#13 36 days ago

So what are you going to do about the playfield, wait for the Mirco one to be released? I'm just not familiar with the process there. And plastics as well, where do you obtain them if you don't already have them? ...and the almighty backglass, of course.

As a former QS owner, my hats off to you on the choice to go with QS.

#14 36 days ago

Mirco PF is available now. Plastics are available from pinball rescue, and also in the works at Mirco. Repro backglass can be purchased from BGresto.com.

Just picked up a restored original last week, amazing game!

Wish I had the skill, time and space to do this myself. Looking forward to watching your restore progress, have fun

#15 36 days ago

Mirco might not send me my playfield back but if you pony up the cash you can buy one right now. I bought a new plastic set from pinball rescue in Australia and BG resto will make you the backglass.

#16 36 days ago

Ha just beat me GB!

#17 36 days ago

Starring this thread! Embarking on the same journey with a toasted Wild Fyre (also a 3 & 4 bank target game). Looking forward to reading about your experience and any tips you'll have to offer!

#18 36 days ago
Quoted from play_pinball:

Starring this thread! Embarking on the same journey with a toasted Wild Fyre (also a 3 & 4 bank target game). Looking forward to reading about your experience and any tips you'll have to offer!

This is gonna be fun!

#19 36 days ago

Yes, new pf’s can be purchased, thanks to crispin lending his to Mirco. I just wish Mirco would return the property to him.

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#20 36 days ago

I still can't believe someone at Stern signed off on that backglass "yep, perfect, just like I imagined it."

Following.

#21 36 days ago

I have thought of doing this but hoping a Stern Led Zeppelin Quicksilver can save me the trouble and agony. Inspired to see your progress here.

#22 36 days ago
Quoted from freakandgeek:

I have thought of doing this but hoping a Stern Led Zeppelin Quicksilver can save me the trouble and agony. Inspired to see your progress here.

Hmmmm. Maybe it's just.me, but why.do we need a rock band combined with a classic pin?. Quicksilver stands well on its own, and while the sound effects are dated, they are a genuine part of the charm of QS. IMHO.

#23 36 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Hmmmm. Maybe it's just.me, but why.do we need a rock band combined with a classic pin?

becasue they are scared old white dudes won't buy it without the rock band attached.

#24 36 days ago
Quoted from TheLaw:

becasue they are scared old white dudes won't buy it without the rock band attached.

Well, then attach the "appropriate" old white dude rock band

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#25 36 days ago

Cabinet sanded, filled, sanded, filled, sanded. Primer applied. Filled, sanded, primer.

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#26 36 days ago

I used a blown out Dracula for the Star Gazer I am building. And a Nine Ball cab is now my QS cab. They will be restored with "improvements".

#27 34 days ago

Got the silver laid on shortly thereafter the sanding & priming. This silver is going to be a pain. It shows every little defect.

And I went with an actual "silver" color, not matte gray. After all, the game is called Quicksilver, not Quickgray.

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#28 34 days ago

So, after the silver had dried for a week, I figured that I'd start getting the stenciling done.

Unfortunately, the stencil does not agree with the silver paint I used. In this picture, you can see all the areas where the brilliance of the silver was knocked down.

I'm going to be left with no choice but to clear coat in between steps. This will set me back a few weeks, as I'll have to start this all over. Ugh.

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#29 33 days ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Hmmmm. Maybe it's just.me, but why.do we need a rock band combined with a classic pin?. Quicksilver stands well on its own, and while the sound effects are dated, they are a genuine part of the charm of QS. IMHO.

I agree in part...but I enjoy Beatles more than Seawitch. They fixed some of the shot geometry, added a magnet, spinning wheel, deeper rules, etc and it is a better game to me.

#30 33 days ago

The cabinet has been clear coated. It looked really good when wet.

As I put it into the oven, I started to see the silver starting to absorb the clear. Well, let’s wait until it’s fully cured and check again.

If it ends up bad, I’ll get to repaint it for a third time. Yay.

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#31 33 days ago

Well, we have our answer: it looks like shit. Bummer.

So, now I’ll have to sand this layer of clear down, and bust out the automotive grade silver (previous silver was just rattle can). I guess that’s what I get for trying to get it done quickly.

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#32 32 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Well, we have our answer: it looks like shit. Bummer.
So, now I’ll have to sand this layer of clear down, and bust out the automotive grade silver (previous silver was just rattle can). I guess that’s what I get for trying to get it done quickly.[quoted image]

Can't you just color sand the clear to smooth it out and then lay down another coat of clear followed by another color sand and buff and polish?

#33 32 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Can't you just color sand the clear to smooth it out and then lay down another coat of clear followed by another color sand and buff and polish?

I wish I could. The silver bled, and almost looks like it has runs in it. I know it’s not the clear, as it is very smooth to the touch.

#34 32 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

I wish I could. The silver bled, and almost looks like it has runs in it. I know it’s not the clear, as it is very smooth to the touch.

I looked closer at your pic. I can see the mottling or bleeding you talk about. Bummer.

My body shop paint supply store fixed me up with some silver color using a paint product called Omni. It is cool stuff. It is a two-part paint with base and catalyst that cures after you paint it. But is does not set up in a covered can. So, some of the Omni that I mixed a couple of months ago is still pourable and usable to this day.

I let it sit for a day and then hit with the clear. I had no problems.

Omni is a product of PPG. Your auto paint supply store can mix it in any color you want.

#35 31 days ago

Silver base coat laid back on. This time, two-component paint was used. Results are much nicer. I may not need to clear coat, but probably will just to be safe.

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#36 30 days ago

There is a paint that is being used for scale models: ALCLAD. It is very realistic at imitating aluminum, steel and other metals. The drawback is that it is very pricey.

Also, gold and Silver have to be sprayed on a black undercoat for best results, not simply primer.

Finally, it may be easier to go with thin sheets of steel metal of aluminum glued to the cabinet.

Yves

#37 30 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Silver base coat laid back on. This time, two-component paint was used. Results are much nicer. I may not need to clear coat, but probably will just to be safe.[quoted image]

Get your stencils on and shoot some clear. You will be glad you did. Clear just works good at adding depth.

#38 25 days ago

Stern didn’t use t-nuts back then (properly). They threaded a bolt from the underside, then just put a nut on the top. I’m sure this was a cost savings measure.

Well, I’m obviously not saving cost on this, and not doing a “to the letter” restore. So I’m going to add them in as I see fit.

First, drill for the center barrel, then for the small prongs. Hammer them in with a rubber hammer. And it’s ready to go.

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2 weeks later
#39 12 days ago

Since ball guides aren’t available for QS yet, I had to make my own.

It took a few revisions, but I finally got it to where I wanted. I didn’t want riveted brackets, as that makes it harder to polish (if needed). So I stole a design idea from Williams and incorporated the bracket in the guide.

I made a few extra sets for friends, but have one left if anyone is in need.

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#40 12 days ago

ooooh pm sent

#41 12 days ago

lol Me too....

#42 12 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Stern didn’t use t-nuts back then (properly). They threaded a bolt from the underside, then just put a nut on the top. I’m sure this was a cost savings measure.
Well, I’m obviously not saving cost on this, and not doing a “to the letter” restore. So I’m going to add them in as I see fit.
First, drill for the center barrel, then for the small prongs. Hammer them in with a rubber hammer. And it’s ready to go.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Observation: The machined thread posts that install into the T-nuts you have added sometimes are not long enough to go all the way through the T-nuts (ideally you want screw threads protruding all the way through). On my Data East pin, T-nuts were used extensively and what DE did was to use a Forstner bit to undercut the area in the play field which shortened the distance the T-nut had to cover. You might try locking down some posts to check for adequate post screw length before you put it all together.

#43 12 days ago
Quoted from cottonm4:

Observation: The machined thread posts that install into the T-nuts you have added sometimes are not long enough to go all the way through the T-nuts (ideally you want screw threads protruding all the way through). On my Data East pin, T-nuts were used extensively and what DE did was to use a Forstner bit to undercut the area in the play field which shortened the distance the T-nut had to cover. You might try locking down some posts to check for adequate post screw length before you put it all together.

Good advice. Thanks!

I will be using all new screws on the pf, so a longer length of screw will be easy to get.

#44 12 days ago
Quoted from Crispin:

ooooh pm sent

So that extra set went quicker than expected! I can make a few more if anyone else is interested. It might take a couple weeks to get it done, but let me know if you need some.

#45 11 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

So that extra set went quicker than expected! I can make a few more if anyone else is interested. It might take a couple weeks to get it done, but let me know if you need some.

I’d be in on this if the price is fair!

#47 11 days ago

lol.. that makes three!

#48 11 days ago

Make it four !

I sent my set off to Kerry at Mantis but he has not gotten back with me yet. This action may make Kerry think twice so I guess I will get while the getting is good.

#49 11 days ago

I'd take a set.

#50 11 days ago
Quoted from seshpilot:

I’d be in on this if the price is fair!

Quoted from supermoot:

I would definitely be in!

Quoted from cottonm4:

Make it four !
I sent my set off to Kerry at Mantis but he has not gotten back with me yet. This action may make Kerry think twice so I guess I will get while the getting is good.

Quoted from Mitch:

I'd take a set.

Well, that got out of hand quickly. Haha.

It sounds like there is some interest, so I'll plan on making some more, but before I send any more out I'll wait for confirmation that they work on someone else's playfield. The work great on my Mirco pf and Reese Rails, but I'd like confirmation before sending out a whole bunch of them.

For the metal ball rails, they'll be $50 a set (two pieces), plus shipping . I can make the wire lane guides too, if everyone needs them. Those should also be $50.

Once I get confirmation that these work on someone else's pf, I'll contact everyone that's shown interest to confirm orders.

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