I'd look at the Ball Index relay to see if the E position switch was stuck closed.
I don't think this is the whole problem just part of it
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I'd look at the Ball Index relay to see if the E position switch was stuck closed.
I don't think this is the whole problem just part of it
I watched a tech at the MoP in Banning solder buttons to tabs and barrels to mounts on an old em. He pulled the playfield and did all.of them at once. Machine lit up bright and beautiful after that.
Ugh I'm dropping in the rankings. I'll catch up after Golden State this weekend.
Here's one that stumped me. On a Chicago Coin Deluxe world series pitch and bat player 1 would go straight to game over after strike 2 about 90% of the time. What could it be?
Quoted from pinballdaveh:Check the player control & outs unit for advancing and resetting correctly.
Does it advance when it shouldn’t?
How does it function on a 2 player game?
2 player made no difference
It was a misalignment on the balls in play unit. When it advanced to the 2nd out it would arc to the 3rd out. Big blue spark!
Quoted from djreddog:Question on Grand Prix. Out of the blue my game no longer kicks out the ball at the end of ball 2 and at the end of ball 4.
Example, start game.
Plunge ball 1. The bonus counts, and ball kicks to the shooter lane and advances to ball 2.
Plunge ball 2. The ball drains, nothing happens at all. (Note - If I lift the playfield, and manually reset the outhole switch, the bonus counts down and the ball kicks to the shooter lane while advancing to ball 3.)
Plunge ball 3. The bonus counts, and ball kicks to the shooter lane and advances to ball 4.
Plunge ball 4. The ball drains, nothing happens at all. (Note - If I lift the playfield, and manually reset the outhole switch, the bonus counts down and the ball kicks to the shooter lane while advancing to ball 5.)
Plunge ball 5. The bonus counts, and the game ends.
I know very little about EM's, so hopefully this is something simple
Check the make break on the alternator relay. This determines which side pays off and if it's open on one side it won't start the end of ball countdown. Looks like it's Brown Red on one side, White Brown on the other and Brown Yellow on the other side of the switch
p.s. it's good to be back in this thread
Quoted from Pecos:This would be a good time to talk about bonus units.
What do bonus units do?
What are the three kinds of bonus units?
Please explain how each type works.
100s, 1000s and 10000s?
Step Up Step Down Stepper: has a coil to allow single increment steps up and another for single steps down. Used for bonus counts and anything where the system needs to perform an action for each
Step Up Reset: steps up like the previous but the other coil lifts the brake off of the gear to allow a full reset in a single action. Used for actions that count up a finite amount of times like a coin or player unit
Continuous: Has a step up coil only. Cannot step down. Used for match units, spinner units.
That's 3, I'm missing the 4th
Quoted from MarkG:Gottlieb's Sweet Sioux has a stepper with three coils. One to take a step back, one to take a step forward, and a third to step forward 2 steps.
[quoted image]
You can barely make out all three coils in the top of the IPDB image: https://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=2475&picno=29390&zoom=1
That's probably not the missing 4th stepper type, but it's unusual nonetheless.
There are also Score Reels and steppers used as Alternators in some games, but they're basically continuous steppers.
/Mark
Is this for a double special?
Quoted from pinballdaveh:Here is a problem I’ve never been able to figure out.
The first apartment I moved into I moved my gottlieb king kool into. To keep the noise down I disconnected the black common wire from the chime unit. Only 1 black wire was used because the chime coils were daisy chained together. So you would think that without the black wire connected the chimes would stop working, but that wasn’t the case. Sometimes during gameplay I would hear a ghost chime sound. It wasn’t a full chime strike sound and it usually happened when a scoring replay was close. How is this possible without the black common wire connected?
It's getting phantom current back on the line when the switch closes. If 2 chimes attempt to fire at the same time it can find a round about path to ground.
I had the same issue with power braid for an early solid state Bally. The circuit was not complete but some lamps glowed and some still works. Checking with a meter got 1/2 VAC
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