Your Future spa backglass is missing the spectral decal.This happens most of the times and sometimes it is found in the head or inside the cabinet, i even find them sometimes in the manual.
Most people have no idea what it is, since it looks like a normal sheet of plastic.
When you put it back on you will see it adds a nice touch of nostalgia to the game and it is a unique feature found only in this game.

Don't forget to adjust the +190 volt displaypower as low as you can. Ballpark is 160 volt.
If the 190volt is however 230 volt and cannot be adjusted replace entire high voltage section to save your displays
from premature burnout. This happens alot.

I have mechanical mechs in the early solid state games i route, and they have nothing but trouble.
The newer games with nri and sr3 electronic ones are almost trouble free.
I wish i could use them in the older games.

If i see the middle rectifier you used more solder, maybe the burnt one had insufficient solder, got hot and started to arc.
I use these old boards on location and they are normally pretty solid if you replace the headers, solenoids and fuseclips

I think the cabinet of the Superflite is too far damaged to put on location, now the first impression does not reflect the energy and love you put in this endeavor.
Personally i would make it look better from at least an onlookers distance, that must be not too hard to do.

F4 from Pacman blowing will probably be powerboard related (bridge going out.?), since the coils are separately fused under the playfield.
Or perhaps the solenoid fuse under the playfield is overrated?
I have 50 games on location and having as much fun as you have. I really like this thread, keep it going!

As a fellow operator i enjoy this thread. It is informative, positive and enjoyable to read.

@Hgot

I think there are different transition brackets or funnels? for quarters and bigger coins, if they get mixed up sometimes the quarter can slide past the switch without triggering or the bigger coin gets jammed up before it hits the switch.At least it is like that with dutch SS Bally coindoors.
You also want to adjust the switch to make a long sweep, i always try to make the switchclick arm travel or duration? as long as it can during the coinpass.Watch closely what happens when you insert the coin.Also test several coins with the coin door closed, The different angle might change coin path.
This is especially neccesary when you use coin comparators, where a coin is almost making a freefall to the coinswitch because of the electronic testing of the coin and not having it slowed down by a magnet as used in mechanical coin acceptors.
You might want to check if you have the correct switch for the coin you are using, there are differences in weight.
Correct coin handling is very important for operating pins in my opinion for it is a very bad experience when people put in a coin and nothing happens.It can be someones first encounter with a pinball machine and it might be the last because of that.
You really want to minimise that., i want people to have a good time on my machines and not getting a credit for your money is a very bad start.

Btw, if you use the close loop bookkeeping system, which i have, you can tell exactly how many coins are dropped without credits. Are you doing that or are the coinboxes emptied by the staff?