Super-Flite keeps blowing the #44 lamps that I put in it's pop bumpers. I put an old GE in and that seems to be holding up. But now that I have some LEDs, I will be using those. The pop bumpers on OXO and Super-Flite are really powerful. The owner of the Spotted Bull was playing Super-Flite when the ball got into the three pop bumpers. All he could say is "wow!" OXO is one of only a few pins that I have had to replace the pop bumper rod and ring because it was broken - just awesome DC powered pop bumpers on that era of Williams pinball machines.
Quoted from BrianBannon:
Be sure to use the tin plated phosphor bronze trifurcon male contacts for the GI connectors, I use them for all the connectors because phosphor bronze handles the heat better than the tin plated brass and the cost is just nominally higher.
For the Bally Harlem Globetrotters On Tour rectifier board I used these:
I do, but once they start to go black, even the slightest bit, they are out of here. Most of the old #44 and #47 lamps I pull are going bad. I save these too. I get requests for old lamps that are going bad for different projects.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:
I'm curious how you have selected the initial titles to put on location. I ask because it seems like you have either run into a bit of bad luck with immediate breakdowns or maybe haven't chosen the most reliable examples from your herd? Maybe there are other machines in your collection that are mechanically more route ready? Or maybe the ones you're really focused on sharing with the public just need more private testing before putting them on route?
I have sold two of my Project Pins to D&D Pinball. Fan-Tas-Tic has had no issues for more than six months, maybe as many as twelve months. Spanish Eyes had no problems for six months. This is one of the important bits of information that I used to decide to start my own operating business. There are a special group of pins that will never go out on route like Double-Up, Black Knight and OXO. Pinball machines like Super-Flite are simple but fast and fun. These kind of games are good for pinball newbies. Harlem Globetrotters On Tour is nostalgic for many and loads of fun. Aztec is the fastest EMs I have played and that is why I chose it.
Bottom line, I have enough confidence, finally, in my restoration, diagnosing and fixing skills to be comfortable putting my games out of route.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:
I would have the game set up at home EXACTLY like it would be on route (needs coins for credits, special/ match features set at appropriate values, etc) and play the crap out of it. I would even set myself a high semi-arbitrary threshold of test games (100? 200?) that the machine would have to pass before being deemed ready. Any breakdowns during the testing period would reset the clock and the testing process to zero. Ideally, I would like the machine to have proven itself trouble free for months on end with regular use before becoming a route candidate.
I am notorious for getting a pin restored 95%, enough to be played at home and then moving onto the next restoration. That last 5% takes a lot of time and I have a lot of pins in my queue waiting to be restored. I just don't have time to play hundreds of test games. I do testing, but not that thorough.
Quoted from pinheadpierre:
I've been following along since the beginning of this thread and hope to see many future posts in which you cannot keep up with your overflowing cash boxes!
Quoted from clg:
Having said that, moving the game can create issues. I have found problems normally pop up very quickly or when a game is out out or after a month or so of heavy play. I also found maintaining older games is much harder.
Fortunately, I have had no problems show up after moving the pins. But I have a very small sample set. I am hopeful that once I get through the first round of problems the machines will stabilize. At this point, I am having more luck with restored EMs. I go through them very thoroughly and if you get them set up right, they can run for many months before problems begin to appear. Taking the time up front to clean and adjust ALL switches pays off big time.
I am still debating with myself how best to test early SS pins. Putting hundreds of test games on it might do nothing more than reduce the life of an electronic part by hundreds of games.
Quoted from cudabee:
I think the cabinet of the Superflite is too far damaged to put on location, now the first impression does not reflect the energy and love you put in this endeavor.
Personally i would make it look better from at least an onlookers distance, that must be not too hard to do.
Super-Flite was delivered to Spotted Bull while Harlem Globetrotters On Tour was being fixed. If you will note, I moved it to the far right where the sides of the cabinet were not visible. As a general rule, I don't do cabinet or backglass artwork restoration. I only have so much time and, until now, I have drawn the line at not restoring cabinet and backglass artwork.
However, I did do some retouching on Travel Time because I knew that a professional photographer was coming in to The Hotel McCoy and I wanted it to look nice. First impressions are important. I learned tonight that Super-Flite will be staying, at least for a little while at the Spotted Bull. You are right, the cabinet is in sad shape. Since it will be staying, I will be going in to do some cabinet touch-up on it if only to please the owner of the Spotted Bull. A cabinet repaint, done correctly, takes a lot more time than you might think. Most of the cabinet touch-ups I have seen were horribly color-matched. I would rather have a unretouched game than a game with poorly done cabinet touch-ups.
A lot of these games are just plain worn out. I am seriously considering putting a Jack In The Box out on route as-is with some of the areas on the playfield worn to the wood. I normally focus on a playfield that looks and plays like new. Someone said once that you don't play the cabinet. I doubt if I will ever hear "You need to paint that ugly cabinet" from a customer. I could be wrong.
Quoted from Friengineer:
Have you considered any signage about the games Pecos? Alot of non-pinball people don't know where the start button is and I think a small sign with some directions or background about you and your games may help. ? Just thoughts.
I have, actually. I am going to be bringing some of my 'special' pinballs to special events and it would be nice to have a sign explaining the year, manufacturer, game name and some history. I remember those big metal signs about four feet high with a rectangular space for the sign and a big base, but those are unwieldy and expensive.
I made my first service call yesterday. I got an email on Friday from the manager at Hotel McCoy that the ball was stuck on Travel Time. I put some credits on the machine and pressed the start button and everything worked. Great, an intermittent problem. In the meantime I did some preventative maintenance on the right flipper. There were two holes through to the playfield where it looked like two fin shank screws belonged - holding down the flipper bushing. But on the underside, there had been screws. I say, had been, because two had fallen out. to confuse matters, there was no third hole. I put two new fin shank screws in the holes and left the other screw on. The flipper is solid and should stay that way for a long time.
I removed the mech board bolts and lifted it to look for some parts that I had dropped. All of the missing parts, two screws and one washer, were under the mech board. I have dealt with this so many times that you would think that I would have a fix by now. I will try to remember to bring a bed sheet with me whenever removing parts from under the playfield. Putting this sheet over the mechs on the mech board should be a catch-all for the parts I drop. I just have to remember to REMOVE the sheet BEFORE turning the machine on!
After screwing the mech board down, the machine would start and then immediately go dark! Here are a few words of wisdom for future operators. When fixing a pin be extremely careful that you don't create any more problems than you started with! I looked at the schematic and noticed that the kickoff slam switch was in circuit to the lock relay. The instruction manual package had slid under the mech board and apparently closed the kickoff switch. I removed it and all was well.
I let some guests play and the intermittent problem appeared! The ball WAS stuck! The outhole switch was the culprit and quickly fixed. I always like to give free games to people in the area. It is a good way to test the machine and I used to get free games after the pinball repairman was done. I always liked that. Now, I am the repairman! Now it is time to pass those good vibes on to others.
I have done no Project Pin restoration for - I can't even remember the last time I worked on the Jack In The Box I am restoring. I knew this is the trade-off I would be making once some of the machines in my collection were put on location. I'm hoping that the pins will stabilize soon and I can get back to restoring the many Project Pins waiting in queue.