Quoted from steviechs:
If you're open to some help, I can spruce your site up a little and make it mobile friendly.
Thanks for the offer. I'm an old-school MIS type and do my own HTML. I never got around to learning how to optimize my Websites for mobile devices. Maybe it's time to learn.
Thanks DNO! The backglass is just as nice. It does have it's problems though, see below.
I replaced the power cord with a new one from PBR. The old one had been spliced in two places and had no grounding prong! The new cord is 13 feet in length. 13-15 feet is perfect for a pinball machine. Remember that it takes about five feet just to get the power cord out of the machine and to the floor. It is important that you wire-up the new power cord properly!
A lot of potentially boring information about bridge rectifiers and Bally Transformer boards commences forthwith. You have been warned... But there are lessons to be learned here if you have the fortitude to read on.
I got my parts from GPE and finished up the rectifier board rebuild. Bally calls it a 'Transformer Board', so if you hear that term, it is what I call the rectifier board. I then started in on repinning the connectors. I became burned out repinning connectors after repinning the edge connectors on a Gottlieb System 80, years ago. Never did get that one working. Repinning is boring and tedious work. I repin one wire at a time so I won't get any wires mixed up. A lot of Amps run through some of these wires. I used Trifurcon pins since they have three points of contact and not just one.
After putting the transformer board back into place and connecting it up, I powered on the machine and looked for the flashing LEDs on the MPU board. I got one flicker and seven flashes! I LOVE seven flashing LEDs because it means the MPU booted up with no problems. Indeed, I was able to coin up the game and play some balls. What a great feeling to have a working #Harlem Globetrotters On Tour!
And then my happy-place world came crashing down to reality. The game locked up while playing. I turned off the game and let it cool down. I turned the game back on and got NO flashes! There was no voltage at all on TP3, the 12VDC supply that eventually becomes the 5VDC needed to power the MPU. Had bridge 2 died already? I took the board back to the bench and replaced bridge 2 and put it back into the game. The seven flashes were back! Awesome work, Pecos!! I then remembered that I had purchased some stick-on heat sinks for the bridge rectifiers from GPE per Vid's recommendation. I put one on each of the three heat sinks.
My joyful celebration was interrupted, once again, with reality. I had to turn off the machine to let the bridge rectifiers cool down. I then cleaned the metal slugs with alcohol before putting on the heat sinks. When turning the game back on, I saw only five flashing LEDs. Stopping on flash five meant that there was something wrong with the displays. I already knew that. When the game was working I saw that two of the displays looked dead and the credit/ball in play display was not displaying the credits. The other two displays looked like the the walking dead. After turning the game off and on again, I got six flashes. That meant that the 43VDC power was missing! Yikes! Was I snake bit or what?? And then after sitting down and thinking about my problems, always a good thing to do, I remembered the reasons why Vid recommended leaving space under the bridge rectifiers:
Quoted from vid1900:
Here we have mounted the rectifiers as far above the circuit board as possible.
This give room for airflow.
This lets us see the topside solder joints.
This lets us attach heat sinks using bolts at a latter time.
Hmm, topside solder joints?? Putting on the heatsinks stressed these solder joints. Was it possible I had broken the solder joints? I moved the third bridge rectifier around a bit, with the machine off of course, and restarted the game. Now I was back to no LED flashes again. Two steps forward and five steps back! I checked for voltages on TP5. TP5 should test about 43VDC. I had none. TP3 also showed no voltage! Both were missing! I toned out the bridge rectifier to traces on the board with my DMM and, sure enough, one of the bridge 3 legs and two of bridge 2's legs were not soldered in place! Fortunately, I had room to get a soldering iron in there and solder the legs from the top of the board. I toned out the legs again and got continuity. I then turned #Harlem Globetrotters back on and, and, and, SUCCESS! So much for my wonderful soldering skills! These bridge rectifiers, like all of the other components are soldered on the back of the PCB. Insufficient solder had made it to the top of the board where the traces were. Another lesson learned the hard way, easily fixed thanks to Vid and his guide. I've got to remember to send that guy some $$Moolah$$.
This bridge rectifier should last another 40 years.
After looking at some business cards online, and their prices, I have decided to make my own. I wanted a picture of a pinball machine on the card and I did find one company that had that design - only $39.00 for 100. That's when I decided to make my own! Here is the first draft of the card - constructive criticism and ideas welcome.
Pecos Pinball business Card (resized).png
Oh yeah, I've played some games of Harlem Globetrotters On Tour and it's fun! There are still problems to solve, but I'll leave that to another day.