(Topic ID: 164755)

A meaningful discussion about buffing wheels.


By Skypilot

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 68 posts
  • 26 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 years ago by cottonm4
  • Topic is favorited by 30 Pinsiders

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    There are 67 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 2.
    #51 3 years ago

    Great topic!

    I picked up a 1HP eastwood as an upgrade to my older unit a few weeks ago but haven't hooked it up yet. It seems to be one of the better deals for 1HP unit that still runs on 120v : http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-1-hp-buff-motor-dual-speed.html

    Has anyone found anything more powerful that you can run on standard 120v? It looks like you need to get into 230v and then phase converters if you want to get beyond 1.5HP.

    -Jay

    #52 3 years ago
    Quoted from jrobinso99:

    Great topic!
    I picked up a 1HP eastwood as an upgrade to my older unit a few weeks ago but haven't hooked it up yet. It seems to be one of the better deals for 1HP unit that still runs on 120v : http://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-1-hp-buff-motor-dual-speed.html
    Has anyone found anything more powerful that you can run on standard 120v? It looks like you need to get into 230v and then phase converters if you want to get beyond 1.5HP.
    -Jay

    More HP is not necessary unless your using 8-10" buffing wheels. Even some of the higher end baldor buffers are 1/2-3/4 HP. I think the difference being with a 1/2 HP baldor your getting a true HP rating. I think if you bought a cheap 3/4hp vs a quality 3/4hp buffer you will see a huge difference. There's a big price difference though. HF, craftsman, husky, etc will all embellish their rating quite a bit. Usually buying a quality buffer the same size is much better than buying a bigger cheap buffer.

    #54 3 years ago

    I'm using 10 inch wheels and would like to be able to move to 12 inch at 2 inch wide. From what I've seen you are at 3HP+ for a 12 inch x 2.

    To be clear, I'm not talking about getting this for polishing pop rings or lane guides (although it would cerainly make quick work of them). I would like to be able to buff out lock bars, side rails and coin doors and not spend half a day doing it. This is in prep for nickel plating and also for candy powder coating.

    -Jay

    Here is an example of the kind I see show up near me - often in the $500-$1000 range

    pasted_image_(resized).png

    #55 3 years ago

    Seems that a tumbler with polishing material would be safest for small parts, is it possible to get the results without the risk. I love the way those pop bumpers look wheel polished but this talk about getting a piece wound out of your hand, its those buggers that have room to stab and grab and would personally pass on trying those.

    I've done a fair amount of buffing, mostly bronze when I did foundry work, and some car trim, but mostly large heavy stuff.

    #56 3 years ago
    Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

    Bench mounted can fling a piece down to the table, or to the back, Pole mounted can send it at you.....maybe there is more
    to it, but Ive always used bench mounted, with a shop vac exhaust or other hood exhaust.

    No difference in the danger IMHO.
    I assure you a bench mount can take it out of your hands shoot it across the room and back again. Hitting you in either direction.
    If you buff without eye protection you were warned.

    #57 3 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    I use green on the soft steel pop rings and it quickly brings them to full mirror.

    wow

    2 weeks later
    #58 3 years ago

    I am using a Baldor 1/3 hp with 6" wheels. Also using a cheap 2 container tumbler.
    The Baldor motor is the real deal.

    3 months later
    #59 3 years ago

    What do folks use to buff to a mirror shine classic cabinet side rails? These obviously are much wider/longer than playfield parts. Is there a wider buffing wheel used so things come out evenly?

    Anyone ever use something like this for such a job?

    http://www.csunitec.com/metal-surface-finishing/linear-grinding-blending-and-polishing/professional-electric-linear-finishing-system

    #60 3 years ago

    Funny that this thread popped up.
    The ramp on my Raven is clouded, broken & missing a piece, so I bought a sheet of polycarbonate & solvent & drew up a template in CAD. I'm going to use a rotary tool with a router attachment & a spiral bit to cut it. I'll use a sanding drum in a drill press to even out & clean up the edges.
    I was thinking last night that I could use 1500 grit sandpaper to get rid of most of the sanding marks & then put a buffing wheel in the drill press & buff out the edges. I've got rouge from back when I had a '79 Trans Am & buffed up the rims.
    What type of wheel & what colour would be best? Vid's table on the first page says to use a 'string' buffer & blue compound. I'll have to make sure I've got blue. What a 'string' buffing wheel?
    Then again, maybe I'm being too anal. The solvent will probably end up making the edges clear anyways.

    #61 3 years ago

    Side rail buffing tool question bump

    1 year later
    #62 2 years ago

    What do you think about this thing for $35? Its at a sale just down the street right now.

    grinder (resized).jpg

    #63 2 years ago

    Xsftoys
    That’s the same one my dad had, i used it a lot and it never let me down.
    The only thing is it’s not variable speed, but it does have the power.

    #64 2 years ago
    Quoted from vid1900:

    I hold them so the ring and the wheel are parallel.
    (Sorry no pic, just the best I could draw on my phone, lol)

    If those rings have the removable rods I remove the rods and screw the ring to a medium length piece of wood cut with a radius that matches the ring and use the wood as a handle. For flat pieces of metal with any kind of holes I will screw the metal to a flat piece of wood to have something to grip.

    Wood screws and sheet metal screws get screwed into a piece of wood. Small bolts get shoveled into a hole drilled into a piece of wood.

    Side rails get screwed to a long piece of wood for solid support.

    Ball guides are tricky. When possible I will hold the guide to a piece of wood as a backstop in an effort to get away from trying to polish something that feels like tin foil. And never turn the ball guide sideways to the wheel; The wheel will grab the edge of that ball guide and fling it. And now you are sorry for if you did not hurt yourself your probably destroyed a ball guide.

    #65 2 years ago
    Quoted from xsvtoys:

    What do you think about this thing for $35? Its at a sale just down the street right now.

    Buy it. That unit will have all the torque you need and own't bog down wen you lean into it.

    #66 2 years ago
    Quoted from Mbecker:

    Ohhhhh ... Damn! I knew this stuff gets everywhere but had no idea it was bad to breathe.. So do it outside? I need to find a base to mount my wheel.
    And yeah -- ditch the gloves for sure and any loose clothing.

    As other experienced people posted, wear leather gloves. Mandatory for safety never mind the parts get hot and if you slip, and you will, the wheel will clean your skin right off. A decent 3M breather will be fine for light work. And don't forget eye protection. Oh yea, you'll need a good bar of soap too.
    2 good choices for small quantity supplies
    https://www.mcmaster.com/#buffing-wheels/=1b3771q
    http://www.tptools.com/
    I've owned a polishing shop as a part of my business since 1982 with 14 people buffing stainless full time, it's not clean, but there's no better way for a great shine.
    Have fun!!

    #67 2 years ago
    Quoted from bayoubilly70:

    What do folks use to buff to a mirror shine classic cabinet side rails? These obviously are much wider/longer than playfield parts. Is there a wider buffing wheel used so things come out evenly?
    Anyone ever use something like this for such a job?
    http://www.csunitec.com/metal-surface-finishing/linear-grinding-blending-and-polishing/professional-electric-linear-finishing-system

    Forget that grinding tool. Get a piece of wood 3/4" x 4" or 3/4" x 6 wide and a little bit longer than your side rail. Screw the rail to the wood with some small #4 screws. if you have the option, screw or clamp the wood and rail to your work bench. If you have a DA, all the better. Use the DA with some 1500 or 2000 and some 2500 grit DA sanding pads and start sanding until you get an almost mirror finish. Then go to the buffing wheel.

    If you don't have a DA, then get out the old sanding block and start blocking sanding the rail with progressively finer grits of sandpaper. Hand power is slow but it will get you there.

    Also, those #4 screws you used to attach the rail to that length wood will need to be moved around when they get in your way.

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