The dust is mostly carbon/steel filings from the coils firing and ball hitting metal parts. Someone did an analysis of that stuff one time.......can't remember who, but makes total sense. Any pics of the cabinet artwork? Glad you are psyched!

Nut on the back side?

Remember until a decade ago, when internet retailers started, many operators/collectors had to make due with what ever was available locally. Not at all surprising, I've found stuff like that before. Good thing you have access to the original parts catalog huh?

I've used that technique, though the sun bake is much safer. I keep the oven temp about 200 which is the minimum my low tech oven will do. Seems about right though. Really need to keep a close watch on them as an extra minute can ruin them. I'd say start with like 5 minutes, but checking them often. Very flat surface, I don't use wax paper, would be concerned about it sticking to the plastics, though haven't tried it. Pressing is important too, or they will just curl up if just removed from heat without that part.

I think that's a decent price if the back glass is good to excellent, and minimal play field wear. I always need either a very good repaint, or original cabinet. Pretty fun game play for this era. Williams had a pretty good year for single players with Apollo/Blast Off, and Touch Down/Kickoff as well. All with the new style coin door and automatic ball lifter!

The second half of 1966 is when Williams made the transition to this newer style cabinet and coin door (almost the same one used for 20 years!) 1965 saw the advent of the auto-ball lifter for Williams as the reverse wedgeheads from the year before (ending with Wing-Ding/Zig-Zag) still had the (some say less attractive) style cabinet with the step down for the larger coin door and ball lifter. Alpine Club (1965) still had the stepped cabinet, but had an auto-ball lifter.

I'm sure you took plenty of pics and made notes of where each cam disk goes......

https://picasaweb.google.com/113822175696968990275/MagicCitySold#5697158196119587602
I think that happened three times on this game! Chill manuever........
Wish I still had mine, but alas the offer was too good and it has gone across the pond to a gentleman from England.

Chris, check what is available at your local hardware store. Those cardboard drawers with all the weird hardware items might have something close. I think I made my own when I did my MC as they were the same as yours.

Looks like it has very little paint loss. Good Score!

Dude, that thing is still pretty minty! I would try to get some more of the ball swirls out, esp. in the lighter areas where they show more. Maybe try it under one of the light shields to get a feel for it. You want to keep moving, don't just work one area too long. There is that fine balance between removing dirt, and removing paint! Mine had way more paint loss initially, even up on the ball arch through the salmon and one insert area up there. See the before/after shots attached.

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DSC02468.JPG

That roll over button in the first pic, was as I got the game. Not original, someone had carved one down to fit-badly. The original style was off white as most others of that era. I used a red/orange one (from PBR) as I thought it deserved a bit more color and it matched the flange.

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Other than that one small flipper drag, looks really nice Chris!

Hard to tell without seeing in person. Good call on getting the ME residue up. I do that too. Amazing how much will show on a clean paper towel!

Every one from there era has that nasty rusted steel backer fore the slam tilt. I scrap it, esp if I have a replacement one from a Gottlieb game. Plus one on removing the targets, though they are a PIA. Often soldered on the screw heads as well. One thing that is easier on Gottliebs for sure. I spend the time to 'regrain' the coin door once everything is off, it's pretty easy to work thru the grits from like 220-800. I'm sure whatever you choose to do will look great, based on your Royal treatment of Royal Guard!

You can try.......I would use a rubber mallet, or at least put a wood block behind it to keep the hammer blows from denting further. From my early attempts at auto body work, it's pretty hard to get it perfect. I avoid coin doors that are severely dented for this reason.

The coin flap is steel, maybe zinc-plated, but not stainless. Mine have always been rusted or missing!

Hey Chris-
I feel your pain! I've been putting a 'Blast Off' together today and man what a lot of work the back side of the playfield is compared to Gottlieb. (I guess I forgot this since my last one!) Also spent a half hour removing an aluminum coil sleeve from a spare replacement pop bumper coil..... Almost done with the bottom, 8 hours later.........

Chris,
I use an auto body-type rubber sanding block. Might start with 120 for that. You want to go the original direction. Once you have most of the offending scratches out, make full passes from one end to the other without lifting the block so as to have a uniform straight grain. Once you have perfected that technique, move up in grit until you are happy with the sheen. (maybe 400-600)

Yes, they are brittle, shows you the quality of the plastics formulas in those days. Also don't try to flatten the plastics in an oven......ask me how I know this!

Sounds right to me Chris,
I just put a new cord on my Blast Off and ran the side with the small ridges to the yellow. (noted this color at the main fuse holder) I didn't do extra grounding. You are right that the coin door does not have a factory ground.

Agreed Chris,
If I replace a power cord, I put in the three prong that PBR sells (sure you can save 2-3 dollars if you went dollar store, though that plug is still polarized, but not grounded!) That way I can tie into the transformer ground (and the rest) already set up in the game. I don't like to add a power switch on these older games. yes, there is power to the game all the time, but I prefer the originality and nostalgia of tapping off the power after I'm done playing! If I go away for an extended period, I can switch off the circuit breaker on the gang outlet.

Aaaayyyy!

I like easy fixes like that though-
When I got Blast Off all back together, I went to fire it up and nothing........
I had neglected to put the main fuse back in! (inserts every embarrassing emoticon!) The game had been working before I bought it, so figured it was something easy I had overlooked. Easy to start at the plug and work forward! Finding all the little gremlins to get the game to 100% is the real challenge.

I don't remember (pages and months ago) how bad the cabinet is (severe planking I would assume) I got a free 'Kick Off' a couple years ago with a really bad case of cabinet dandruff! Really too bad. Ended up parting it out with a nice playfield, but trashed back glass. Needed stuff for other projects and donated the rest to Sean Kavenaugh. Sounds like you might have to go with a repaint huh? Everything else on yours looks great now!!

I don't have time (nor a great place to do it) but I did a first attempt once on a 'Bank Shot' that was ok when done. It really is an art to making it look at least close to original. Yours does have a very simple design that could be done with either tape or stencils cut with all straight lines. Maybe you can recruit one of your local NJ guys to tag team it?

Really Chris! How dare you! You could be tarred and feathered for that and drummed out ot the EM hangout!!

Yes, that the right style. The originals are the white ones. For some reason, I decided the red one looked better up there. (I used the original white ones on my other two Williams 1967 Apollo/Blast Off). The little buttons that hold them on, can be lost easily. Luckily you can substitute a small screw in a pinch.

I have always carefully cleaned/polished that trim/lift piece. It is chrome, but almost always some rust/pitting on it.

Yikes! No, don't try and take it off, or you'll pull a bunch of the ink with it!
That's what I meant by being careful. You can run some painter's tape across the front glass if you like. That way you can use steel wool if needed. Those plastic side trim pieces tend to rip the ink off pretty easy too, so work carefully.

The 'bad' EM cats agree, lookin' good Chris!

Don't think he carries Williams from that era, but you could ask. Likely will say to use their Gottlieb repro.

As you may know, that was the designer's plan, but Williams dropped it to save money! (per Steve young, et al.)
I also saw a decent Magic Town in the Pinfest flea market(?) field was worn, but back glass looked pretty good.

Don't get too OCD now Chris....... !!
Remember that finishing a project so you can start another (Grand Prix is waiting for you) has value as well. Not that I advocate cutting corners. Work efficiently, if you can't shave from the back of a stepper unit, no one will ever see, you'll survive to live another day!!