(Topic ID: 60579)
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Magic City
Williams, 1967
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Quoted from jrpinball:That's the same way I do it. Maybe a little fine steel wool too, then finish it off with Mother's Mag and Aluminum polish. Sometimes I'll throw it in my dad's lathe.
i didn't even think to polishing it further with mother's... i should have done that...
Overland Park, KS
since i got the color changing led's at the show yesterday, and i wanted to see what the bg was gonna look like, i plugged it in for the first time today (no playfield yet, just mech board)... remarkably enough, no magic smoke was released... 
transformer buzzed LOUD for about 5 minutes, then gradually dropped down to a low level...
plugged in the head and popped in the lamps... this looks pretty darn cool... 
big props to stashyboy for this tip...
Quoted from ccotenj:since i got the color changing led's at the show yesterday, and i wanted to see what the bg was gonna look like,
Epic! How hard is it to remove them? 
Quoted from ccotenj:i got the color changing led's
Well Chris you know by now that I am generally against LED's on EM's but I have to say that for the Fountain they work well. It is almost like you have a mechanical Backglass with the way the light colors change.
Back in the day Williams could have made it do almost the same thing had the put in a small motorized rotating color wheel with a light bulb behind it. The bigger version as an example is like the 60's and 70's Christmas Tree color wheels folks bought for their aluminum trees that sat on the floor pointed at the tree instead of light strands.
Ken
Quoted from EM-PINMAN:Well Chris you know by now that I am generally against LED's on EM's but I have to say that for the Fountain they work well. It is almost like you have a mechanical Backglass with the way the light colors change.
Back in the day Williams could have made it do almost the same thing had the put in a small motorized rotating color wheel with a light bulb behind it. The bigger version as an example is like the 60's and 70's Christmas Tree color wheels folks bought for their aluminum trees that sat on the floor pointed at the tree instead of light strands.
Ken
As you may know, that was the designer's plan, but Williams dropped it to save money! (per Steve young, et al.)
I also saw a decent Magic Town in the Pinfest flea market(?) field was worn, but back glass looked pretty good.
Sana'a
@bert... hmmm... possibly the ones in the bottom row....
Quoted from o-din:Epic! How hard is it to remove them?
impossible... i welded them in...
Quoted from vid1900:I would only light the penis with pink LEDs.
i KNOW i could rig in a circuit and some bulbs so you would get, ummm, "backglass animation" when you won a replay... 
a fwiw... as expected, dirtflipper's method of cleaning the crud off of light sockets/brackets with diluted clr and a q-tip works very well... it is not hard, but it is time consuming... i got about half of them done yesterday before i ran out of patience...
Quoted from meSz:Chris n DF, went with the glass bead blasting.
Oh yeah, looks sweet. And bead blasting is fun, too! Seal those up so they don't rust again, and you're good to go.
Quoted from DirtFlipper:Oh yeah, looks sweet. And bead blasting is fun, too! Seal those up so they don't rust again, and you're good to go.
Already done! Thanks for the advice!
Since I was at it I also had him do my coin box for the Power Play I restored a few years ago. The coin box is made of the same metal as the other coin box but the lid is made of stainless steel. So the lid is shiny and the box is not. Just the results you get from the two different metals.
IMG_3313[1].JPGlooks REAL good...
bobby orr power play? i don't suppose you restored it to put bobby in the "correct" uniform?
Quoted from ccotenj:looks REAL good...
bobby orr power play? i don't suppose you restored it to put bobby in the "correct" uniform?
I am surprised that no one has ever made a custom glass with him in a Boston uniform. Especially since everyone complains about it!
I always loved that machine, for whatever reason, when I was young. Would love to see another hockey theme machine come out but doubt one will happen!
Quoted from meSz:I am surprised that no one has ever made a custom glass with him in a Boston uniform. Especially since everyone complains about it!
I always loved that machine, for whatever reason, when I was young. Would love to see another hockey theme machine come out but doubt one will happen!
i've seen one that was completely re-themed with him the way i like to remember him... i had two idols growing up, bobby orr and carl yastrzemski... to see bobby in a blackhawks uniform still hurts... i was a VERY unhappy little boy when he left the bruins...
all the light sockets are now de-crudded... yay!!! of all of the "patience is a virtue" restore tasks, that one ranks pretty close to the top...
sadly, "real life" has been getting in the way a lot recently, and i'm not making as much progress as i would like... 
also, all the stuff i learned on the "royal guard" diversion is now causing me to want to re-do some of the stuff on this machine... i see a few things that i could have done better, and i know if i don't go back and re-do them, it WILL irritate me... 
Don't get too OCD now Chris....... 
!!
Remember that finishing a project so you can start another (Grand Prix is waiting for you) has value as well. Not that I advocate cutting corners. Work efficiently, if you can't shave from the back of a stepper unit, no one will ever see, you'll survive to live another day!! 
it was too nice of a weekend to work on pinball machines...
@stashy... yea, good point... i really need to wrap this up rather than looking for things to do better... it is a bad habit i have...
@bert... what a friend i have in you, willing to save me all that work... what would i do without you?
yea, i think i could use a few of those screws... we need to meet up so i can give you those schematics too... drop me a text when you get a chance...
Chris, looking for the nut that goes on the shoulder screws on the stepper unit of the CC Goalee game I am working on. Any idea as to the size? Took the screw to local place and 6-32 was the closest in size but it doesn't fit (too tight). Tried other nuts, both standard and metric, to no avail. Did CC use shoulder screws that had "bastard" threads?
Post edited by meSz: added pic
IMG_3318[1].JPGQuoted from boilerman:should be 6/32 just run a tap/die in it clean up the threads
Thanks boilerman
Quoted from boilerman:should be 6/32 just run a tap/die in it clean up the threads
You can buy a pretty cool tap tool (looks like a screwdriver) in the electrical section at Home Depot.
It lets you clean threads and retap both 6-32 and 8-32.
Great tool to have around.
It's for use on electrical boxes.
Quoted from ccotenj:it was too nice of a weekend to work on pinball machines...
@bert... what a friend i have in you, willing to save me all that work... what would i do without you?
yea, i think i could use a few of those screws... we need to meet up so i can give you those schematics too... drop me a text when you get a chance...
Not just trying to save you work.
I'm thinking of your mental stability working on a beater.
Will touch base in the next few days.
Maybe we can meet for lunch.
Quoted from fflint_18:You can buy a pretty cool tap tool (looks like a screwdriver) in the electrical section at Home Depot.
It lets you clean threads and retap both 6-32 and 8-32.
Great tool to have around.
It's for use on electrical boxes.
Thanks for the info as it may help someone else out as I have a Matco tap/die set and I did boilerman advised and all is good!!!
Quoted from fflint_18:You can buy a pretty cool tap tool (looks like a screwdriver) in the electrical section at Home Depot.
It lets you clean threads and retap both 6-32 and 8-32.
Great tool to have around.
It's for use on electrical boxes.
i gotta get one of those and stuff it in my toolbox... i have a tap/die set, but like many things, it tends to hide in my shed...
Quoted from fflint_18:Not just trying to save you work.
I'm thinking of your mental stability working on a beater.
Will touch base in the next few days.
Maybe we can meet for lunch.
we know that my mental stability isn't exactly stable to begin with...
cool... i should be around, my "after work task" for the several days got delivered this morning... if anyone wants to get some exercise, feel free to stop by...
Quoted from ccotenj:if anyone wants to get some exercise, feel free to stop by...
If only you were closer Chris, if only you were closer!!!
Quoted from meSz:If only you were closer Chris, if only you were closer!!!
yea yea yea...
i'm trying to do my best "tom sawyer" here...
It's all looking great I can't wait until I get mine all cleaned up and going what is the trick to getting the side rails off without bending them all up?
One more question I just put all new bulbs behind my backglass and they all light up except the row across the very top it lights up numbers 0-9 I believe do you know what they are for I've only seen one or 2 of them on while playing in the past thanks
Quoted from wiseman9986:It's all looking great I can't wait until I get mine all cleaned up and going what is the trick to getting the side rails off without bending them all up?
thanks...
when i took them off, i carefully cut small notches in the head of the nail with a dremel, then was able to back them out enough with a screwdriver to get a claw on them and pull them... however, boilerman showed me an easier way, just take a REAL firm putty knife and slide it under the rail and gently lever it away from the machine... as with everything else, go slow and careful, and you should be fine...
Quoted from wiseman9986:One more question I just put all new bulbs behind my backglass and they all light up except the row across the very top it lights up numbers 0-9 I believe do you know what they are for I've only seen one or 2 of them on while playing in the past thanks
Those are your match numbers. Only one should light at the end of game. It's a random sequence. If the lit number matches the last digit of your score you win a free game. Or should if everything is set up that way.
Quoted from wiseman9986:One more question I just put all new bulbs behind my backglass and they all light up except the row across the very top it lights up numbers 0-9 I believe do you know what they are for I've only seen one or 2 of them on while playing in the past thanks
that is for the "match" feature... when the game ends, one of those lights should come on, and if it is the same number as the last digit of your score, you get a credit...
one of them should always light at the end of the game... if you are not getting that:
- bulbs could be burned out (the easy solution)...
- the circuit board on the "1's" reel could be dirty and not making good contact... disassemble the score reel, degrease the board (and everything else, since you have it apart), gently hit the circuit board with 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper (use 90% alcohol for the wetting), then clean the board with alcohol to get rid of the mess... follow that up with a light coat of superlube on the board where the contact point travels... the second easiest solution...
- the match unit (referred to in the parts manual as "50 step non-resetting stepper") itself needs have it's circuit board cleaned up... remove the board, degrease it, then polish the contact points on the board with brasso, then follow with a light coat of superlube... also ensure that all parts in that unit are moving freely... if it was me, and i was already working on that mech, i'd go ahead and take it all apart and clean it good... replace the coil sleeves... if you do this, take LOTS of pictures... it is not hard to do, and once you have done one and know what all those little parts do, subsequent ones go together rather easily... also, when you remove the board, check to ensure that all wires are still connected where they should be, those guys like to break off... the 3rd easiest solution...
- there are "broken" circuits somewhere... force a "game over" condition, then manually set the the "1's" reel to "0"... you should see "0" light up on the backglass... if it doesn't, take your schematic and find that circuit and trace it in the machine... you can either use a dmm for this, or use the "clips on a wire" trick to jump along the circuit and identify where the break is.... work your way through all the digits in this manner... the 4th easiest solution...
the problem almost certainly lies in one of those 4 places...
I'm betting on flaky light sockets. One or more of these always seems to fail on the 0-9 match numbers. Also as cc said, a dirty wafer board on the "match" unit is a common problem.
I may be wrong, but I don't think the circuit board on the "ones" reel has anything to do with lighting the match numbers. It has everything to do with awarding a replay for "match" however.
Also, check to see that the jumper for selecting the "match" feature is plugged into the appropriate socket. It probably is if you have seen any of the "match" numbers light. There's likely a contact point on the "game over" relay that closes to complete the circuit to the "match" lights. Check to make sure it's clean and closes on "game over".
Without having the game or a schematic in front of me, these are general areas you should check.
i'd have to look at the schematic too (remarkably enough, i haven't got it memorized by now)... but thinking about it, you are probably right on the 1's reel... i'm getting games confused in my mind...
Any chance anyone of you have a skin for a Gottlieb coin door? I have a Snow Derby that I would like to get one for since someone had put rivets into the existing one. I guess they put a lock or something on it!!! It's actually not a bad looking door other than the 4 rivets in it but if I can find a replacement that is not priced bad I will replace it!
IMG_3353[1].JPGQuoted from meSz:Any chance anyone of you have a skin for a Gottlieb coin door?
I think your door looks fine. Just need to remove the blue paint from the lock.
If you want new PBR sells them.
Ken
a used one is hard to find in "good condition"... most of them are pretty scratched up (which can be fixed) or bent (bordering on impossible to fix)...
best solution is to order a repro from pbr... they aren't cheap, but they look great... i used one on that "royal guard" in the other restore thread....
http://pbresource.com/CoinDoor.html#1962
edit: i think i agree with ken though, that doesn't look too bad... i'd replace the "start button" with a nice shiny new red one from pbr though... that is what they were originally...
Quoted from EM-PINMAN:I think your door looks fine. Just need to remove the blue paint from the lock.
If you want new PBR sells them.
Ken
Yeah I might be too anal and shouldn't worry bout it but again.....if I can find one that isnt overpriced ..........
As for the blue paint.....I thought it made the coin door????? What reason would anyone have to paint the lock on a coin door??? Must be the same as painting quarters red back in the day~??
Quoted from meSz:Yeah I might be too anal and shouldn't worry bout it but again.....if I can find one that isnt overpriced ..........
As for the blue paint.....I thought it made the coin door????? What reason would anyone have to paint the lock on a coin door??? Must be the same as painting quarters red back in the day~??
it's those personal touches like that that make the machine...
dunno if you saw my edit above, but at the very least, replace the start button...
Quoted from meSz:As for the blue paint.....I thought it made the coin door????? What reason would anyone have to paint the lock on a coin door??? Must be the same as painting quarters red back in the day~??
There should be no paint on that lock, never had it originally, someone painted it just because.
Ken
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