It seems like the P-Roc mounting fix has been corrected a newer version of the board. Maybe I missed it, but I hadn't seen that update mentioned anywhere. It appears the fix is no longer needed as the board now has a mounting point for that bottom left hole. This is a photo from the latest batch of TBL:

IMG_0761 (resized).jpg
IMG_0763 (resized).jpg

Notice the P-Roc fix in previous mainboards

TBL3 (resized).jpg
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread#post-4426895
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread#post-4423849

I noticed that there is a ribbon cable below the p-roc on the board sd_tom has which doesn't appear on this one. I think that's an expansion port so he must have a mod or something plugged into that. Does anyone see any other differences between the versions of the mainboard?

sd_tom what are you doing to keep the upper playfield ball guide in place? I watched your video and saw the amount of play in the trough, but what's keeping it from moving around? It doesn't seem to have any mounting point on the exit end. Since that's a hard 2" drop off that piece, thinking that might be a good place for a piece of mylar.

Side note for future reference - I messed with the lower switch in the car garage by unscrewing one of the screws holding the switch on. I left it a little lose and the garage door started spazing out a lot more than it did previously. I wonder if adjustments to that switch could make the door behave better. Its just a simple switch, but thinking back to how MPF handles switch bounce/delays, I'm also thinking software could be adjusted for that too.
IMG_0769 (resized).jpg

You posted about adjusting the upper playfield loop in comment #3:
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1EjCEGGwkMhe7EoHEIe9HbeVq_qzSLZLIDQ

Did you ever get your game sorted DG_Amuse ?

adamross I fixed the car spazzing outing issue. Along with the v0.51 update, the car is now buttery smooth and doesn't open/close rapidly on start/end ball. The issue is in fact related to the home position switch. I found that over-tightening the topmost screw actually kinks the switch out. Maybe it's putting pressure on the switch internally as well. I loosened the screw up a little and it fixed the spaz issue. I didn't initially think this was the problem because the switch was making contact with the car no problem before and after adjustment. I fiddle with it a bit pulling the switch tab out further and that didn't help. So it might be an internal issue with overtightening. Not sure if it will ever move again on me but this is confirmed the issue I was seeing.

Support video:

Adding to this, I found the best way to open terminal from the game is:

1. hookup a USB keyboard
2. Press "Esc" to exit the running TBL game code
3. From the black desktop screen press "Ctrl" + "Alt" + "F1"

Login: dp
Password: dp

kidchrisso Fix: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/2#post-5326843

I've had no issues with the rug. I greased the spindle when I first got the game. Other than that its stock. It's a late ARA game.

TBL uses Mission Pinball Framework as its core programming framework. In MPF, physical USB port addresses are hard coded in the yaml files by default. Unless DP wrote something special to manage USB, then yes changing the USB ports around would interfere with the p-roc and MPF talking to each other.

My scoop is kickout the ball out at about half power all of the sudden. Changing the MS settings makes no difference. Its creating a straight down the middle drain every time. Its barely enough power to even eject the ball sometimes and tries repeatedly. My game has barely any plays on it so I wouldn't expect dirty coil sleeve or anything like that. Its for sure coil power related because the ball isn't catching on the exit, just not enough power get it up and out of there properly. I've had coil power issues with the VUK since day one. That too seems to barely make it up top and requires a couple of tries.

Has this been addressed yet? Didn't initially see anything when search scoop in this thread.

Thank you Rensh

This was indeed the issue. One screw was missing and the other was very loose. I suspect the force of this mech is wiggling the original screws loose. I stepped up the screw thinkness to make sure it was properly tight. It appeared the holes were a little too worn for the original screws to work well. I replaced with two #8 x 1/2" Unslotted Hex Head Screws

Perhaps everyone should check their games. I'd worry about this coil breaking something if it just fell down loose and continued to fire while it's trying to eject the ball. It's very close to custom PCBs.

Missing screw, second very loose, and worn screw hole
Replaced with #8 x 1/2 Unslotted Hex Head Screw
Fixed with new screws

One of my plastics in the back arrived broken NIB. Haven't had any issues since. Wish we could buy individual replacement pieces.

Got another bowling ally not registering the ball. This issue just bricks the game.

Had Let's go Bowling, Start Multiball, and Mark It Zero stacked when I entered the saucer.

It started Let's go bolwing, I selected the dude, missed first shot. Hit second pin, animation shows hit, the game never leaves the mode. It sits there forever. I did figure out that tilt will reset the game. Then after it tilts and a long time, ball search does recover the ball.

There needs to be a way to recover from this. Even if its a switch not registering 100% of the time, it can't be solely reliant on that with no way to recover. I don't have issues 95% of the time, but these 5% times kill the game.

My game had a bad mini playfield board. The "G" led wasn't lighting at all and I was getting a ghosting light effect on other nearby leds when the lights should be off. The game had been this way since new but never noticed until I looked closely at it.

Insert G should be on and it is not
I and N inserts ghosting when lights should be off

I emailed Barry and he sold me a new mini playfield board for €70,00. DP sells the MPF upgrade kit (€250 I think?) that includes a new PCB, but I decided to forgo that upgrade.

The original TBL mini playfield pcb
The new TBL mini playfield pcb

If you get the upgrade kit the new PCB has room to move the stepper motor up to under the MPF. I looked through the upgrade instructions and decided moving the stepper wasn't for me. Though I did end up doing just as much work on my own solution as the MPF upgrade. Probably worth just upgrading if you're doing this.

While I was under the MPF, I made a few extra changes:

The early MPF plastic ramp didn't have a hole for your screw driver to remove this bolt. Later builds have a hole from my understanding. I was able to get the screw off/on without it, but when I had to take this off again, I got fed up and made the hole.

The early ball guide - no hole
Made my own hole

I never loved the white rubber and red targets on the MPF. Always felt like the handicap targets should be blue. I know there are stickers, maybe I'll order those, but while I'm here I switched out the targets. Also switched the post sleeve rubber to grey to match the building better. Using standard gray post sleeve from Titan.

Gray post sleeve rubber on the MPF
The rubber needed a little heat to remove from the posts

Blue targets are a DIY project. The red ones appear to be a standard Williams part (minus the connector). Pinball Life sells the targets in red (pbl-100-0060-00) but I couldn't find blue assembled anywhere. Marco sells the blue caps (#03-8304-1) and PBL had the rivets you need. Semi Tubular Rivets 5/32", 9/16", and Rivet Washers. Though I forgot to put the washer on this one but it didn't seem to make any difference. I followed THIS guide.

Making a blue standup targets for TBL
Blue standup targets for TBL

The last upgrade I wanted to do was replacing the plumbing fitting that connects the garage door to the stepper motor. The MPF upgrade kit fixes this, but moves the stepper up top. As others have discussed before, I bought a coupling with threaded pins to replace the brass plumbing one.

replacement coupling
I bought this coupling off (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07P95G6ZK) Amazon but warning it does need to modified. The shaft and stepper rod are both 5mm. The coupling I found was only 5mm on one side and 4mm on the other. I drilled out the part with a 5mm bit to make it work. You won't just find a 5mm bit at harbor freight. Plan to order this if you're doing this yourself as I had to order a set from Amazon after learning this.

Drilling a 5mm hole
finished TBL stepper motor coupling
Stepper motor with new coupling

When reassembling the MPF, I fixed an alignment issue I've always had on the Walter ramp. It was just too low on mine and the lip seemed to cause a lot of balls to fall backward. I added washers under the ramp to make it flush with the MPF.

Washers under the Walter ramp to make it flush

And that's it I put the MPF back together and now have working lights with blue targets and gray rubber. Though I still need to order the right size translucent ring.

Blue handicap targets and grey post sleeves

Did the car registering switch code change in 1.0? It seems car hits only register when both parking switches change from closed to open. It seems like the door is pushing against the switches the whole time. Maybe thats normal, I forget. But if you hit the car hard enough to cause the car to bounce forward, it opens up the switches briefly and registers as a hit. Otherwise hits to the car that don't cause the switches to open don't register.

I don't remember having such issues hitting the car prior to 1.0. I thought the right parking target switch should be closed when the car door is fully open but the left target shouldn't be. Then hits to the left target trigger the "hit"

In this video hitting the car does nothing, but pulling it away registers the hit. Are your games like this?

Yet another MPF PCB issue -

Following up on the parking switch issue in car modes -- I ended up taking off the MPF tonight to look at what was going on. Turns out I had a much bigger issue. Looks like I was having the PCB "bending" issue discussed during the Right Ramp Made switch and PCB board issue: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/11#post-6256608

I had previous issues with the Right Ramp Made switch up here intermittently working but it never was bad enough to trigger me looking for a solution. I'd see reports it wasn't working but then it would successfully test ok and go away. My MPF PCB is actually a replacement (2nd Gen) because I had a dead LED since NIB on the first generation board. Well I think all this is now related. That board was definitely sitting on the metal Jesus plate like the issue above showed and tonight I saw it had cut into those Right Ramp Made switch wires. Additionally, the pressure on the PCB was affecting the way the Parking targets seemed to be working.

20221015_202649 (resized).jpg

I don't appear to be having the grounding issue on this board. And I don't want to replace yet another PCB as I think the pressure from the board sitting on the screw is what's causing these boards to fail. Sorry if this has been discovered previously, but I think the only solution is to raise up the MPF. The problem is you need to raise it up quite a bit. So... I did that.

Added a stainless steel nut to the MPF standoff

I added a stainless steel nut to the 3 MPF standoffs. I ended up removing the original washer here as it was too tall. Appreciate the nut coded AHH and that's what I was saying to myself when I tried this dumb idea. I had these on hand but I believe they came from Home Depot. The nut is 5.5mm tall and fits the standoff well.

20221015_205126 (resized).jpg
20221015_215703 (resized).jpg
20221015_215918 (resized).jpg

Well this effects a bunch of things:

1. The habit trail will be lower but it can be easily bent upward.
2. I can no longer secure the backboard to the MPF with those two screws.
3. The Walter ramp has a slightly steeper angle but it doesn't appear to be any more difficult IMO.
4. There is a harder drop off from the MPF onto the habit trail but it doesn't appear to cause issues.
5. The space between the bowling alley roof and the wood brace below the glass is tight but it doesn't touch.

My garage door stepper motor was modified previously with a coupling to make it easier to remove. If your stepper is the newer version that's attached to the MPF, no issue. If yours is 1st gen like mine, you'll likely need to do the coupling mod.

So much room for activities!

Well the MPF PCB is off that metal plate now and those switch wires aren't being crushed. I'll run it like this for awhile and report back if I notice any issues. But for now my switches all seem to be working correctly up there. Raising up the MPF while drastic, seemed to solve my issues and wasn't too difficult. I wouldn't go any taller than the 5.5mm I did. But you could get away with slightly less if you find a shorter spacer.

Maybe print a few a sell us some I'm interested

I swear those dude ramp standup targets were originally teal / Tiffany Blue colored in the prototype DP brought to Expo 2016. But I've yet to see a photo confirming that. Nor does that color seem to exist anywhere. An unsolved mystery.