Scrape the useless glue off and use this method to make sure it doesn't come out again:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights#post-4402506

This week they should start shipping. It was supposed to be today, but customs delayed the last component I'm waiting on. Excited to get these ZEN kits out in the wild. They're very nice.

The GnR brackets are pretty quiet, but you can still hear them in attract mode if you're close to the machine and concentrate. The ZEN kits are essentially silent once the machine is closed up. Some of the testers weren't even sure they were ON and had to check they were working.

As I learn more, I get better at cutting out the things that cause noise. Quieter fans, steel bracket with less edges to resonate, and karma-glide mounts come together on the ZEN kits to be about 75% quieter than what are now the "standard" GnR kits. Because the technical noise reduction is different than the perceived noise reduction if you have both side by side, your ears would perceive them to be about 40% quieter. Which is still a LOT.

I can't wait until these ZEN kits get out for all the machines so people can get them installed and be amazed. Ask Joel (joelbob on pinside) on his TPN/FlipnOut stream this week about them. He's tested ZENs on TNA and Godzilla and has had the standard ones, too, so he can attest to the reduction in noise. Karl DeAngelo's been testing all the iterations since last summer, too. Some of the other testers only have ever had ZENs, so they can't A/B compare standard to ZEN, but Joel and Karl could.

It's definitely an issue if you play more than 25-30 minutes at a time. I posted the temp test graph for Lebowski here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-official-club-thread/page/80#post-7147915

As you can see, temps are pretty hot and the flippers are in the fade zone after about 30 minutes, but the cooled version completely eliminated fade for the duration of the cooled test.

The upper flipper did ok without cooling and was stone cold with cooling. It's the reason I recommend a 2 flipper ZEN kit and not a 3 for Lebowski.

They're on pinmonk.com:
https://pinmonk.com/products/tibetan-breeze-deluxe-2-flipper-cooling-kit-for-big-lebowski

And here on my pinside store:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/07376-tibetan-breezezen-2-flipper-cooling-kit-for-big-lebowski

These kits are a brand new, updated design and will be shipping any day. I've just been waiting on one of the components to get here after being hung up in customs.

Guessing but probably an 11/32" socket. You may have to put a cloth around the post below (to protect the metal from the pliers) and clamp on with pliers to keep it from turning, too.

So probably 8mm then. I have both metric and SAE sockets because I roll large like that.

You can (and should) fix the static issue around the pins.

Get a spray bottle and make a solution of diluted downy fabric softener 1 part downy to 5 parts water.

Test the solution with a light spray in an inconspicuous area and let dry to make sure it doesn't stain or discolor the carpet.

If that's OK, lightly spray all the carpet where you walk. Should take care of the static for 1-3 months at a time. Repeat as needed.

Yeah, it's not a one and done permanent solution, but if you stay on top of it, no more static problems.

A saddle bar (~1/2" wide steel rectangle, long enough to bend over the sides also ~1/2 on each side) across the top and over the edges on the top of the curve that is then welded to the sides will be stronger long-term. More of a Dutch solution/production change, but I've fixed enough B/W pins that way that I know it works long-term.

Plug a USB keyboard in, use the tab key to navigate to the buttons and try ignore (hit enter once the ignore button is highlighted)?

Common problem, it seems. Essentially needs a plastic shield on that screw holding the plastic to the left of it so there's a transparent wall to stop the ball from hopping the wireform, or a shroud on the bowling ball hood that directs the ball onto the wireform so it doesn't get airborne.

Ah! I don't have a TBL and only played it a few times, so I was unaware how the ball was getting there.

Someone posted a picture with that mod and a pinball that had dropped in to sit with them. So it doesn't prevent it completely, but it might help...

Try deadening the ball impact on the metal at the "V" so it doesn't bounce back to the PF. Something like weatherstripping foam, etc that can absorb the impact and let the ball drop.

You could also put another piece slightly below the level of the PF on the PF side that protects it in case the ball bounces back, too.

I'd do clear nail polish first and let that dry to solidify the spider cracking the ball has caused, then mylar. But you definitely want to get the ball action fixed or even that won't hold for long. If the foam isn't stopping the bounce back, it needs something to direct the ball down and rob more energy from it. Not sure what that is at the moment. Can that tray it falls into be re-mounted so it's a little further back?

He's saying the ball comes back too high for the foam on the PF lip to do much.

Ah, right. I see it now. It doesn't look like air bubbles where the ball impacts, though.

Is there a way to lengthen that tray 1/2" or 1"? I don't know how much is available under the mini pf to move out. An angled deflector from the factory would also help the ball down instead of back at the mini playfield.

I've been thinking about this more. Maybe try a 1/2" or 3/4" thick piece of memory foam? Or you could get a 1" piece and split it so it can straddle the "V" shape with at least 1/2" on the front side. Memory foam is a great dampener of motion, so it might work for this application to kill the ball's momentum dead or almost dead so there's not enough energy to bounce back.

What does it look like in motion, though?! Gotta see it!

That looks great! Barely makes a dent in the foam before dropping. Excellent alternative to a cliffy that doesn't exist to solve the problem.

Thanks for the support on the ZEN kit! It will absolutely solve any fade issues you have with TBL.

One of the ribbon cables is unplugged. Is is supposed to be?

This was a huge problem on Ghostbusters. The ball would rocket off the left ramp targets and go airborne, often flying back so hard it could go over the flippers and out of play. I put the swinks angled target bracket on them, and it fixed the problem 100%. No more airballs. You can probably do a budget version of the job the swinks bracket does by 3D printing a wedge to put under the bracket where it screws to the playfield so it angles the target down slightly. But if you don't want to mess with it, the swinks angled bracket is what will solve this issue for you.