(Topic ID: 217437)

A lotta ins.. a lotta outs - TBL maintenance thread

By sd_tom

5 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1324 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Car door tilted alignment fix. Posted by cpr9999 (1 year ago)

Post #1336 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Bowling Alley release post binding alternative fix. Posted by flynnibus (1 year ago)

Post #1393 TECH:FAQ. Link to Official Service FAQ for TBL. Posted by Rensh (1 year ago)

Post #1397 TECH:ELECTRICAL. MPF board issue some machines had - solution. Posted by Rensh (1 year ago)

Post #1423 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Jesus ramp rejected shots fix. Posted by Rensh (1 year ago)

Post #1540 TECH:SOUND. Subwoofer suddenly stops working - fix. Posted by Rensh (1 year ago)

Post #1580 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Rug toy switch sensitivity adjustment FAQ Posted by Rensh (1 year ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#1394 1 year ago

I did a search, but I didn't see my question... but I'll apologize in advance if this has been covered - but when the scoop fires the ball back about 1 in 10 go SDTM.... another 1 in 10 barely hits the very tip of the right flipper causing the ball to spin and become uncontrollable. What is the standard adjustment for this? I figured I would ask before i pulled the glass and went at it with my screwdriver! At the very least can there be a ball save programmed in case it first SDTM?

Also... while we are at it...

The rug sensitivity... I need a very solid shot for it to register. Is there some travel in the rug that can be adjusted.

left ramp... i get tons of rejects... probably 50% (or more) of ball locks are rejected.

In general... many of my switches seem to lack sensitivity. I am not opposed to adjusting them, but is it more of a feature of a game or a case that they all need to be dialed in?

There aren't any real killer issues - but the left ramp and the scoop kickout can cause me some frustration!

Thanks!

2 weeks later
#1433 1 year ago

Both of my rails came dented from the backbox. Is there an easier way to remove the rails than to stand over them for 2 hours with a hair drier? I didn’t realize that they were glued in… but after nearly 30 minutes with a hair drier I realize that they are REALLY glued in.

1 month later
#1554 1 year ago

So since the update I am having two new issues. It could be a coincidence of course

1- after the ca mode - my car does not retract. In fact, it often pops out and never goes back in

2- I can not get a strike... ever.... before the update i had a problem with pin #8 - even with a direct hit that pin would just spring back up.

any ideas?

1 week later
#1571 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Doubtful that this is due to the update but easy to check. Just select the previous version and try.
1 sounds like a switch issue. Check working of the parking targets and cardoor close switch. See service faq.
2 have you tried the software setting described in the operational manual page 54?

So it looks like the car closed switch isn't registering. Is that the near-impossible switch repair that people were mentioning?

Also, no idea about the pins. I went through the service manual and I selected pins, but nothing happened. The pin will fall on occasion, but oddly not on a direct hit.

#1573 1 year ago
Quoted from zaphX:

Bear in mind the pins are simulated and manipulated in software, they are not actually knocked down by the ball. What happens on the screen is what the software thought happened in reality, and what it counts.

I thought about that, but often times that is the only pin standing.... I'll hit it directly, it will go down and then bounce back up.

#1576 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

If the ball physical hits it it will ofcourse move up but if the coil isn’t activated it will come down again after the ball is gone.
It will simulate the situation on the lcd display. This shows the calculated drops. If it’s ain’t up there it will also not be up physical.

I am lost, when I go through the service menu nothing happens on any of the pins. I can't simulate anything - because nothing happens.

#1581 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

What are you trying to do? Activate the coils for the pins? If yes, you are aware that coindoor open removes the 48VDC from the playfield eg coils will no longer work? You will have to pull at the coindoorswitch dit bypass the security circuit.

All of the coils work for all 10 pins

#1591 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

I still have no clue, sorry, what is exactly going on here eg what your experience-issue is. Do you more info or sent a video to [email protected] ? More than happy to help but need more intel.

Thanks! Will do!

2 weeks later
#1620 1 year ago

so the switch that indicates that the car is closed. I thought mine was bad, it didn't work during a switch test, so I purchased a new switch and was ready to install it. I went on vacation... came back... and now the old switch is working again. Any ideas on what is going on with it? Cold solder or loose connection? I know others have have replaced the switch... but maybe it's not the switch going bad.

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