I had the same issue, I am the happy owner of #620. Loosen pawls with 3/8 socket, adjust, then tighten.

I aligned so that line is straight from the plastics right down each flipper. Machine plays much better.

Please help. How are you all installing the mylar to the rug decal?? Do you have to remove the rug, or can you just attach the mylar and use the rug stepper test to roll the rug to get it attached all the way around?

What is the proper procedure to remove the rug? Can you get the Starlock washer(s) off without removing the mini pf?

I am the owner of a newer machine (#620) and am going to do my best to preserve it. TIA, mk

20220313_140344 (resized).jpggarage door sw (resized).JPG

I had to replace my garage door switch today, and used a technique that some may find helpful. I have Serial # 620. I was skeptical about the switch being bad as my machine is very new and has very few games on it.

First, I knew the switch was wonky when I was getting chatters form the garage door in the closed position, and when I put the switch to continuity check from my meter, it was showing an intermittent closure when the switch was pushed to a solid closed position.

I removed the VUK exit, as well as the garage door wall to make access to the switch a bit easier. I also took this opportunity to add mylar to the VUK exit drop, and the MPF ramp exit area.

20220313_151512 (resized).jpg

I used the closed side of a small 13/64 dogbone wrench, and took a small piece of duct tape on the bottom. This wrench grabbed the locking nut on the underside of the switch, and the tape prevented the locking nut from falling down (and rolling into the depths of the machine) when I loosened the torx screw on the top side of the switch.

I used the same technique to install the replacement switch, putting the locking nut in the closed end of the 13/64 dogbone and using the small bit of duct tape to hold the locking nut in place as I screwed in the torx screw from the top side of the switch.

Make sure you don't tighten the screws all the way at first, you will need a tiny bit of play to get the switch position adjusted right to get the best closure when the door is closed. Tighten fully when you have the switch adjusted.

I tried to adjust the switch first, but when it was reading intermittently in the car stepper motor test, I got the meter out. I knew the switch was bad when it was reading intermittently open when pushed to a firm closed position on the meter. Because the machine is new, you wouldn't think the switch could be bad, but it was a bad switch. I was ready to start checking the idc connectors, stepper motor connections, etc..

No apologies needed. It's certainly not DP's fault that a random DB5 microswitch would be defective.

You can tell that TBL has been crafted and assembled with care and love. I am very happy with my TBL!

Thank you all for making the machine. Thank you also for supporting it so well.

Mini Playfield Removal Tips

I recently took my MPF out and successfully re-installed it. I wanted to share my experience and give a few tips for those who will be doing this to their TBL.

First, when you lift your PF and remove the mini-PF flipper, I suggest you disconnect the mini-pf stepper motor cable (circled in red on the picture) and make it loose. You will have to remove a few harness ties. You also want to loosen the mini-pf ribbon cable. You can give it some slack by feeding the excess cable through the harness from the Proc board to where it goes up to the mini-pf. I did not have to disconnect my ribbon cable from the Proc board or cut any of its harness ties. You can just slide it through the harness to give you another 4 inches +/- or so where it extends from the main PF to the mini-pf.

These cables (ribbon and stepper control) were really tight initially going to my mini-pf, and I was afraid of lifting the mini-pf before I made the cables loose. My serial # is 620.

I suggest that you get a T-handle torx set for your TBL if you don't already have one. (See pic of my snappy t-15) There is a min-pf screw UNDER the mini-pf clear ramp, there is a small access hole in the clear ramp (see pic) that is accessible with a thin T15.

When you get all mini-pf (4) screws out (don't forget the one in the back panel), you will find it easier to lift the mini pf up because you gave the ribbon cable some slack as well as having the stepper motor cable loose.

20220316_013655 (resized).jpg

Snapppy T15 (resized).JPG

mini pf clear (resized).JPG

Correction, I mistakenly said the mini-pf ribbon cable was plugged into the Proc board; it is plugged in to the main board, not the Proc board...

Have you taken out your mini-PF to look at the traces on the mini-pf circuit board where the orbit switches plug in, and checked their respective sockets for cold joints? Check continuity from the actual switch terminal(s) when the switches are plugged in to traces on the board that are back from the sockets? How is the ribbon cable looking? Plugged in all the way to the mini-pf as well as the Proc board? Any kinks in the ribbon cable? Does the IDC connection on any of the orbit switches look wonky? What about the ribbon cable connections to the ribbon cable plug(s)?

Can anybody please tell me how to remove my rug? I want to install mylar to prevent the rug label from getting damaged. Or is there a way to install mylar on the rug without removing it?

Pics and any help would be extremely appreciated! Thanks, mk

Thanks Rensh! I figured it could be installed without removing the rug. I will try the method you described.

Here is my current bowling pin spacer fix for those who are using 5/16 rubber rings. This seems to be working really good so far. The duct-tape on the sides of the rings creates a bit of extra space and stops the solenoid just a bit sooner and seems to add more durability to the rings.

20220512_103930 (resized).jpg

20220512_103944 (resized).jpg

20220512_104857 (resized).jpg

CyberNinja24, What serial # is your TBL machine? I have TBL # 620 and I do get some bounce-outs from my Jesus shots. Thanks, mk

How do I buy/order the extended MPF Flipperbushing kit? my serial # is 620, and this needs installed on my TBL. Thanks, mk

I just sent e-mail to support.

Thanks so much for how well you are supporting TBL and for the new 1.0 code!! -mk