(Topic ID: 217437)

A lotta ins.. a lotta outs - TBL maintenance thread

By sd_tom

5 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #1324 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Car door tilted alignment fix. Posted by cpr9999 (1 year ago)

Post #1336 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Bowling Alley release post binding alternative fix. Posted by flynnibus (1 year ago)

Post #1393 TECH:FAQ. Link to Official Service FAQ for TBL. Posted by Rensh (1 year ago)

Post #1397 TECH:ELECTRICAL. MPF board issue some machines had - solution. Posted by Rensh (1 year ago)

Post #1423 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Jesus ramp rejected shots fix. Posted by Rensh (1 year ago)

Post #1540 TECH:SOUND. Subwoofer suddenly stops working - fix. Posted by Rensh (1 year ago)

Post #1580 TECH:PLAYFIELD. Rug toy switch sensitivity adjustment FAQ Posted by Rensh (1 year ago)


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#761 2 years ago

I'm a new 2nd owner of a newer low play build and while I've had a couple minor issues, these were easily fixed.

One issue I haven't been able to fix yet is with the bowling alley release pin. The pin will be up for the first ball and it releases ok, and then very slowly starts to come back up. After that I get 4-5 balls which roll through until the release pin is high enough to hold a ball for me to shoot the spare.

Comparing mine to the picture in the support manual, my release pin is farther down in the U-shaped cut-out towards the foul line, but doesn't seem to be rubbing on the wood, and I can manually push it down and it comes back up freely. I was going to try adjusting the coil bracket as suggested in the manual to move the release pin farther back to see if that helps. Anything else I should try while I'm messing with it?

#762 2 years ago
Quoted from KSP1138:

I'm a new 2nd owner of a newer low play build and while I've had a couple minor issues, these were easily fixed.
One issue I haven't been able to fix yet is with the bowling alley release pin. The pin will be up for the first ball and it releases ok, and then very slowly starts to come back up. After that I get 4-5 balls which roll through until the release pin is high enough to hold a ball for me to shoot the spare.
Comparing mine to the picture in the support manual, my release pin is farther down in the U-shaped cut-out towards the foul line, but doesn't seem to be rubbing on the wood, and I can manually push it down and it comes back up freely. I was going to try adjusting the coil bracket as suggested in the manual to move the release pin farther back to see if that helps. Anything else I should try while I'm messing with it?

Release pin was rubbing and just needed an adjustment to get it working 100%. The pictures in tech support manual helped a lot.

#776 2 years ago
Quoted from timlah79:

The fun doesn't stop with my machine. Two new issues popped up today out of nowhere:
1. Shooter Lane Diverter not working: The ball is not going around to Maude letters since the diverter is not lifting out of the way. It looks like there's a secondary spring that's supposed to be attached to an arm underneath the coil but it's just flailing about. Notice how in the second picture it's turned sideways. The little pin mechanism is loose and I don't know but it seems like the spring is supposed to be looped around the hole in the arm below but there is no lead from the spring to do so as far as I can tell.
EDIT: After further research it appears this type of spring is supposed to have a loop lead on both ends. Mine only has the top one and/or the bottom one somehow snapped off. I was able to create my own loop with a pair of pliers but I'll still need to replace this. Part referenced at Marco's: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-389
Photo of what it should look like I believe:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Same thing on mine today. I just got some needle nose pliers, pulled/twisted the end of the spring a bit, and reconnected it to the diverter to get it working again.

And about a week ago the same loop on the end of my left flipper spring broke. I believe the flipper return springs are part number 10-364. Bad batch of springs I guess.

#778 2 years ago
Quoted from adam12hicks:

Jeez - my left flipper return spring broke yesterday as well! Ordered 5 for $1.55 + $13 shipping :-/ Cointaker minimum shipping is rough.

I ordered a couple of the flipper springs from Marco, so shipping was $10, but I got a couple other things too. But not the diverter spring, that I didn't know I needed until yesterday. So far my makeshift spring repairs seem to be working ok. Here's what the diverter spring looked like before I fixed it. Maybe the spring holes have a sharp edge on them that eventually cuts through the spring loops?

BrokenSpring (resized).jpgBrokenSpring (resized).jpg
#780 2 years ago
Quoted from Jecco74:

I updated to the latest code. Now I am getting a system error pop up. I searched the forums and found a fix, but when I hit esc to get to the Ubuntu screen the system error pops up again and goes to a black screen. I can not get to the ubuntu screen to fix the error. Anyone else run into this?

Try this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-official-club-thread/page/58#post-6544575

That should get you into the file manager if hitting the windows key and typing terminal doesn't work. I had to get rid of the error message recently and I think I might have had to hit cancel on the error screen after hitting esc to be able to open a terminal window.

I think we can get rid of these pop-ups permanently by disabling the Ubuntu apport service. If I happens again I'm going to try that.

#783 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

DP is working on a complete overhaul of the operating system, hopefully this will make this happen no more.

Just don't lock it down to the point where I lose my real Creedence, man.

#784 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

My game keeps resetting during play. Haven't been able to pinpoint any common point when it happens.

The person I bought mine from said he saw a couple resets. When I got it home I made sure to reseat all of the USB connections, and I haven't seen any in a couple hundred games, most on the newest software.

#790 2 years ago

My Maude gate sometimes stays fully open when it shouldn't. I'm thinking it is probably the rollover back there not registering and I'm going to check that later. It should always close after a ball passes through, correct?

#793 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Correct. Should close. See if the spring is properly attached.

Thanks. The spring was attached, but the end of the connecting rod, or whatever it is called, was sometimes getting caught up on the edge of the opening (see before picture). I carefully bent it so it has plenty of clearance now.

MaudeGate (resized).jpgMaudeGate (resized).jpg
1 week later
#812 2 years ago

Can someone confirm that the RGB Only Test under LED tests has red and green reversed? Selecting red lights up the various arrows as green and selecting green lights them up as red. Blue is correct. This is on the latest .57 code.

BigLebowskiLEDTest (resized).jpgBigLebowskiLEDTest (resized).jpg
#815 2 years ago
Quoted from KoenHeltzel:

Hi, to correct this you have to adjust the following 2 settings:
"Adjustment Menu -> Hardware -> Middle Main Board & Mini Playfield Board"
As mentioned in the 0.56 changelog:
These need to be set to the correct value after a factory reset to ensure correct functioning:
ES: Engineering Sample (you'll know when you have one of these)
REV0: No version is specified near the MIDDLE MAIN BOARD legend print.
REV1: REV1 is specified below the MIDDLE MAIN BOARD legend print. REV1 is now the factory default for Middle Main Board & Mini Playfield Board settings (previously REV0).
It's possible this setting was not correctly set following a factory reset, maybe in the factory itself.

Thanks, that was it. I hadn't done a factory reset since I bought it last month, just updated the firmware to .57 from whatever was on it, .55 I think.

1 week later
#846 2 years ago

Is there any place we can get replacement pins? My #4 pin snapped off near the top. I'm going to try some superglue or maybe some epoxy on it, but I doubt that will be a permanent fix.

#850 2 years ago
Quoted from timlah79:

The stock pins are incredibly fragile. I had 3 snap off right at the place yours likely did. Plus the "sleeve" part of the plastic that leads the metal rod into them just flakes away. I ended up buying the mod couple's set for about $200: https://themodcouplepinball.com/products/the-big-lebowski-replacement-redesigned-bowling-pins-individual?variant=18185679765601
They are far more durable but the problem is that they are not logo'd the way their pic shows. You'll get a set with a barely looking "B" on them. Don't expect them to look like the product photo nor be logo'd the way the stock ones are.
What I did with my original DP set is epoxy around all of that easily snapping area to reinforce them. I just put those epoxy reinforced ones back on the other night. Nothing has broken again yet. Regardless, you should reach out to DP support to get replacements.
My original post about this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/13#post-6308434

There is a newer, hopefully less fragile version of the pins available from DP, but I'm going to try the epoxy repair/reinforcement too to see how it holds up.

3 weeks later
#902 2 years ago
Quoted from Tuna_Delight:

Seems to work well as my (E6000) glue repaired/reinforced pins have held up over the 5 months since I made the fix and mentioned them in response to timlah79 's pin breakage post.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/13#post-6309034

Thanks, I've got 2 weeks and a decent amount of games on my epoxy repaired and reinforced pins and they seem to be holding up ok. This seems to be the best solution for now.

1 week later
#906 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

With me it hits left flipper and when it’s my unlucky day it sometimes does sdtm.

Mine goes to the right flipper now, but only because I got sick of all the sdtm drains a stuck a small piece of 3m tape on the side of the Donnie ramp right at the end so it bumps the ball just enough to the right coming out of there. The side contour of the ramp probably varies some machine to machine.

1 week later
#917 2 years ago

Another broken spring, this time on the Maude diverter. And a broken #2 pin - 3rd one now and the first since I took them all out and reinforced them all with clear epoxy about a month ago.

Also saw a bug I've never seen before. At the end of Nihilist mode I hit a target just as the 2nd ball drained on wave 1. The wave 1 total screen stayed up, but the game kept going. I did a frame of bowling, and that screen came up, and then went back to the Nihilist screen after it finished. The game then locked up when I started a car mode.

#920 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Koen is working on a in-between version 058 to fix some bugs which have come to light. This awaiting final version 1.00.
I think your nihilist experience can be related to this remark in the temp bug fix list
- The Nihilist Showdown intro could crash the game if a Nihilist target was hit (or closed due to vibrations?) during the intro
Than the other issues, have seen some broken springs but very limited. The pins are a different topic. Last version supplier insisted they were made of unbreakable material but apparently …

I think the Nihilist bug I saw is very similar to that, except for the switch hit occurring while the mode was ending instead of during the intro.

The springs aren't that big of a deal, I'm just replacing them as they break with what I hope are more durable ones. After I reinforced the pins, I thought there's no way these things are going to break again. I'm thinking maybe glancing hits are worse than straight on impacts, kind of like how you hit tempered glass with a hammer and it won't break but if you gently hit the edge...

#921 2 years ago
Quoted from KSP1138:

I think the Nihilist bug I saw is very similar to that, except for the switch hit occurring while the mode was ending instead of during the intro.
The springs aren't that big of a deal, I'm just replacing them as they break with what I hope are more durable ones. After I reinforced the pins, I thought there's no way these things are going to break again. I'm thinking maybe glancing hits are worse than straight on impacts, kind of like how you hit tempered glass with a hammer and it won't break but if you gently hit the edge...

The spring wasn't broken this time, it somehow slipped off of the diverter arm. I put it back on and added a small piece of heat shrink tubing at the end to keep it from happening again. There was a little cap on the end of of the arm's hook before, not sure what happened to it.

2 weeks later
#951 2 years ago

Anybody manage to have 4 broken bowling pins or do I have the record? I think I'm just going to keep going until I break all of them before going through the trouble of trying to repair them again. A couple times the broken pin caused the ball to get launched off of the return chute into the cabinet, which was fun to retrieve and put back in the middle of a good game.

What's the word on the newer, unbreakable version of the pins? Are they holding up?

#960 2 years ago
Quoted from timlah79:

3 of mine broke within about a month of owning the machine. I posted about that in the 2nd half here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/13#post-6308434
I ended up buying the mod couple reinforced ones but the logo on them is lackluster at best (pictured in that post). They have been solid though.
Since the 3 stock ones all snapped at the same joint (pictured in that post), I went ahead and epoxied all 10 of them around that same area/joint (fixing the 3 and just reinforcing the other 7 for good measure). I removed the mod couple ones and put the epoxied ones back on about 2 months ago and haven't had any new breakage.

I think I saw your post and epoxy reinforced mine when I had them out to fix the first 2 broken pins. I thought that would work since I put a lot of games on them with no more issues, but unfortunately those 2 broke again along with 2 more in the last couple weeks. Pins 2, 3, 4, and 6. The next time I repair them I might put some clear heat shrink around them too to see if that helps any.

#961 2 years ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

If you manage to get a set from modcouple please let me know. I'll probably buy one just to get ahead of the problem.

If I buy replacements I'll probably get them directly through Dutch Pinball, but I wanted to see if they newer ones were holding up better since it is kind of a pain to replace them.

3 weeks later
#993 2 years ago

New owners, let us know how the bowling pins are holding up. I need get a few replacements if the the newer ones are better.

20220201_160051 (resized).jpg20220201_160051 (resized).jpg
#998 2 years ago
Quoted from per3per3:

A couple of items that I'd appreciate some help with:
2) Tonight, the bowling alley started misfeeding the ball into the bowling ball launcher. Once you go becoming and select your ball to bowl for, the bowling shooter starts rotating before the ball is fed to it. The ball is being fed fairly hard and is hitting off of the bowling shooter and falling down the bowling alley. This can happen multiple times until it's fed correctly. It's either the ball is fed too fast/hard or the bowling shooter is already rotating and the feed only really works if the shooter is centered and not moving. I tried lowering the coil strength on the bowling ball return down to 22 but that doesn't seems to have any impact. Is lower the ms number make it harder or softer? What else can I try.

I had this issue early on with mine. The problem is the center post of the bowling alley launcher binding against the playfield. It would go down, but struggled to come back up, and until it did the ball would keep falling through and getting fed back up again.

I don't remember exactly what I did, but it involved adjusting the post a bit so it wasn't rubbing on the playfield, and I sprayed a little silicon lubricant on it too. They was several hundred plays ago and I haven't had a problem with it since. There's some good pictures in Rens' support guide.

#1017 2 years ago

Are these the correct reinforced targets? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-5R

I started getting freezes over the weekend and eventually determined a couple targets are most likely the source of the issue. They don't show up as stuck switches in the test, but I think the contacts are close enough together that they probably mess up the PROC while in game after one or both take hard hits. I'd tried some manual adjustments to the targets to get the contacts a little farther apart, but haven't had any luck yet. Those targets have taken a beating.

For troubleshooting, I checked the USB connection from the PC board to the PROC and all of the connections under the playfield. I was able to play 3 long games with the targets disconnected so I'm pretty sure I've narrowed it down to them.

#1029 2 years ago
Quoted from KSP1138:

Are these the correct reinforced targets? https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/A-18530-5R
I started getting freezes over the weekend and eventually determined a couple targets are most likely the source of the issue. They don't show up as stuck switches in the test, but I think the contacts are close enough together that they probably mess up the PROC while in game after one or both take hard hits. I'd tried some manual adjustments to the targets to get the contacts a little farther apart, but haven't had any luck yet. Those targets have taken a beating.
For troubleshooting, I checked the USB connection from the PC board to the PROC and all of the connections under the playfield. I was able to play 3 long games with the targets disconnected so I'm pretty sure I've narrowed it down to them.

I took out the 5 oblong targets, got them bent them back into shape, put them back in, and made sure none of them were sticking. I still had frequent lockups after that. Through a lot of troubleshooting I believe I have narrowed it down to a single target (Light to the right of the Dude ramp - SW17), that when connected and after a hard direct hit, will lock up the game.

The question I have is why would a single target that isn't sticking cause this lockup issue? Maybe a bad diode?

The other question I have for Rensh is about the PROC and that bad powerpin solder issue. My serial number (486) is very close to the range of serials (490-540) that might have that issue. I don't think this is causing my issue since it only seems to be with the one target, but I thought I'd check if you have seen anything like this before. I did the basic PROC troubleshooting, moving the connector over to USB3, reseating the connectors, reseating the memory on the motherboard, and checking the log file (no PROC lost messages there). The only thing I haven't done yet is replace the USB cable.

#1033 2 years ago
Quoted from B-Born05:

I think I’m having the same issue, mid game seems to be off one of the targets, it goes into search mode and won’t recognize the ball in play or drained. Test report never stays up after reboot. I also have a couple targets that are regularly sticking, I was planning on looking into it more this weekend.

I saw that on mine when I first got it, and that's a little different than what I'm seeing now. Just guessing, but you probably have 1 or more targets where the contacts are just a little too close together resulting in intermittent sticking, especially if you get warnings and then they go away before you can see what they were in the test report. If it had history log would help since it only shows the active issues. Try slightly bending the blades on any that look like they might be a problem to get the contactors a little further apart and see if the issues go away.

For my issue, I ordered a replacement reinforced target for the one that is causing the lockups. I'm really hoping it might just be something like the screws somehow got through their insulation and are shorting the blades together on hard hits to it, since a simple target replacement would fix that. Seems like a good theory anyway.

#1038 2 years ago
Quoted from KSP1138:

I took out the 5 oblong targets, got them bent them back into shape, put them back in, and made sure none of them were sticking. I still had frequent lockups after that. Through a lot of troubleshooting I believe I have narrowed it down to a single target (Light to the right of the Dude ramp - SW17), that when connected and after a hard direct hit, will lock up the game.
The question I have is why would a single target that isn't sticking cause this lockup issue? Maybe a bad diode?
The other question I have for Rensh is about the PROC and that bad powerpin solder issue. My serial number (486) is very close to the range of serials (490-540) that might have that issue. I don't think this is causing my issue since it only seems to be with the one target, but I thought I'd check if you have seen anything like this before. I did the basic PROC troubleshooting, moving the connector over to USB3, reseating the connectors, reseating the memory on the motherboard, and checking the log file (no PROC lost messages there). The only thing I haven't done yet is replace the USB cable.

I installed the new reinforced target this afternoon and played several games with no lockups. The new target from Marco on the left is a little different from the one I replaced on the right, but no issues with it. The backing foam on the old target had gotten very compressed, and it may have been shorting on the back of the bracket through the insulator on hard hits. I should be able to re-use it after replacing backing foam.

20220215_134752 (resized).jpg20220215_134752 (resized).jpg
2 weeks later
#1072 2 years ago

I had a bad target switch that I replaced that has mostly gotten rid of my lockup issues, but I still get them sometimes during games right after a cold startup that don't seem to be related to hitting any particular switch. After about 10 minutes and a couple restarts they do not happen again.

I'm just outside of the serial numbers that have issues with PROC power connector issue, but I'm wondering if I should just try the powerpin or 2 wire fix?

#1074 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Two wire fix shouldn’t be needed but does t hurt in the end. But, would reflow the power pins first if your sn is close. If you do this, reflow also the soldering of the USB connector on the Proc. Had a case where that had a bad solder.
Assume you already did the reseating of USB

Thanks, I did reseat the USB connectors at the MB and PROC. I think I'm going to try a different cable first and if that doesn't work I'll reflow both the USB and power connectors. I'm sn 486 so pretty close.

1 week later
#1078 2 years ago
Quoted from KSP1138:

Thanks, I did reseat the USB connectors at the MB and PROC. I think I'm going to try a different cable first and if that doesn't work I'll reflow both the USB and power connectors. I'm sn 486 so pretty close.

A different USB cable seems to have fixed things so far. No restarts after several games over multiple days. It could be that the connections at the motherboard and PROC are a little tighter now.

In the new 1.0 code version are there any stability improvements for issues like this where the game could recover from an intermittent USB disconnect or PROC power loss while logging the problem as a detected issue ("USB connection loss" or "PROC power loss")?

1 week later
#1098 2 years ago
Quoted from ezatnova:

Had a wild one last night. Two character multiball, drained both within 2 seconds of each other. Of course after the first drain, the multiball ended, then the second one hit the trough.
Game says Keep Shooting and not only ejected one ball back but re launched both.
Played for about 10 seconds and the game reactivated the sequence of the two player multiball, announcing the characters and whatnot. I realized things were really whacky at that point. About 5 seconds later…poof, black screen and a reboot.
Perfect odd set of conditions or what, I don’t know. Very odd. Might be worth me sending to the bug forum, I guess.

Did you happen to start the multi-ball while still within the original "start of ball" ball save time? I'm wondering if you still had a couple seconds of initial ball save time left (paused/held when you played multi-ball) when you drained that 2nd ball, and the code is just not expecting to ever be in that state.

1 week later
#1117 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

I totally agree and plan to do so but need first serial number of the tbl involved. Need to know if this is a golden oldie or a brand new one.

Don't know how it could be an older one, unless...

eb327959-adc0-46bd-afc3-7c571f74cc00_text (resized).pngeb327959-adc0-46bd-afc3-7c571f74cc00_text (resized).png
#1124 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

What did i do???
[quoted image]

"Obviously you're not a golfer."

It just means you haven't bowled for that many games. The software has checks for unused switches to alert you to potential problems.

1 month later
#1152 1 year ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

I asked. Only way is to buy new HD with new OS which is supposed to support all PC motherboards they have used (drivers, etc).

Maybe a new owner could create and share a drive image for us? I'm curious to see if it fixes that static audio issue that happens when you have the game on for a while since it seems like that could be a driver problem.

#1157 1 year ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

I tried a new audio cable as Rens suggested. It seemed to work great for the first few games, but then the sound issue came back. When I turn the machine off and on again the problem resolves—for a while. Is this a known issue with the old hard drive/OS?

I know a handful of people have seen it now. And it is possible that running modified music may cause it to happen sooner if it is a memory/resource related issue. The fact that rebooting fixes it is telling. I've never tried to see how long it takes to show up, and if there's a difference between just sitting in attract vs. playing.

#1158 1 year ago
Quoted from timlah79:

If upgrading ones' existing HD to the new OS isn't a thing, then IMHO DP should provide a new image file with the new OS that one can clone to the same or a new HD. Right?

Rens said they didn't want to deal with the support of people re-imaging. But I'd be willing to sign some I agree to assume all risk disclaimer.

It would be as simple as buying a replacement drive (I bought the exact model of my drive for $25), writing the image to it with Macrium Reflect (free - Rens has instructions in the support guide), and swapping the drives. The original would be your backup just in case.

#1167 1 year ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

I have one of the new hard drives with the new software from dutch pinball. They had to send me one when my old one couldn't access the OS behind the scenes.

Would you be willing to create an image of it using Macrium Reflect or HDD Raw Copy Tool and share it? If so, I can PM you a google drive link to copy it to. I would share it there for others that want to use it to fix the "system problem detected" messages and maybe the static sound issue.

#1169 1 year ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

Would you post a link to the hard drive we’d need to order for the installation?

This is an exact replacement for the original drive in mine: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0722XPTL6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title

They could use different models, and just about any SATA III SSD drive will work. I've used a 10 year old drive I had lying around when I was testing music updates and it worked fine.

#1171 1 year ago
Quoted from CaptainNeo:

If I knew what the hell you just said. I'm right over the IL boarder. If you are close, you could stop over and show me hows it's done.

Close, but not that close

Here's some instructions if anybody wants to give creating a backup image with HDD Raw Copy Tool a go.

TBL_Backup_Image_Instructions.pdfTBL_Backup_Image_Instructions.pdf
1 week later
#1179 1 year ago
Quoted from greenhoody:

If I hold the right flipper and launch the ball it just goes about 1.5 ft and falls back down. If I hold the left flipper for rug skill shot it works just fine. Any ideas? One last coin taker complaint; I paid for art blades 2 months ago and still haven't got them. Not the worst since I've had to tweak it so much I might have accidentally slashed them by now. LOVE the game

Check if the right flipper is interfering with the ball launch since they are very close together.

3 weeks later
#1232 1 year ago

My Donny lane has never returned to the left flipper on fast shots that come around that orbit like the rug skill shot, and for months I've had a small piece of 3m tape and the end of the metal guide so it would get bumped over to the right flipper instead of going SDTM. It has always bugged me because the guide alignment is good. After taking a closer look I found that there was a very small, almost invisible, imperfection right in the middle at the end of the metal guide that would bump the ball out enough to cause the issue. After filing it down the ball goes to the left flipper now. So something to check for people having that issue with the guides on either side.

#1234 1 year ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Definitely good advice! I just wanted to share the solution I went with. Found this post w/ pics from a while back by TomDK with advice from Rensh: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-official-club-thread/page/30#post-5872316
I did what he did--slightly shave/cut/create a "flat" side to the post rubber. This allowed my ball guide to naturally move just so slightly to the left at the end. Ever since, I've had zero SDTM shots coming down from the Donny lane / around then down the left orbit. BTW I haven't had to do anything on the right side, I've only had SDTM issues from the left. Read his post above and the few before it. Just be careful not to cut too far into the rubber or slice your finger! You definitely need a very sharp blade and a steady hold on the rubber (or maybe others know of a creative way to hold the rubber in place while you cut it). Also, I know there are other solutions to redirecting the ball. Just wanted to share that this was 100% the solution for me.

Thanks, plan B was to either shave down that post rubber or finding something thinner to go around the post to get the guide in farther. It was surprising how much of an effect a very slight imperfection at the end of the guide had on deflecting the ball towards the center of the table. I could barely even feel it when rubbing my finger over it. I guess when the metal guide was originally cut it wasn't 100% clean.

1 week later
#1248 1 year ago
Quoted from jyeakley:

Does anyone else have an issue where the mystery scoop shoots it SDTM sometimes? Seems like 1 out of 5 times. Is the solution just to increase the power there? If so, what do you all set it to?

I don't remember exactly what I did, but there's a bit of left/right adjustment in the scoop itself. Check the screws/nuts that secure the scoop coil to the playfield and see if you can twist it slightly so it goes to the right flipper every time.

2 months later
#1432 1 year ago
Quoted from CALencio:

I'm struggling keeping balls held.
After watching this video, I wonder if Papa Pinball guy has his table set correctly and mine is off? See this tutorial here:
In this video, there are two things this guy can do that my table does not let me do at all:
1. Hit Jesus backhand from a held ball. There's no way I have the power in a backhand to do this.
2. If during a multi ball scenario and there is a ball held in the right flipper, if there is a ball coming down the exit ramp from the upper playfield, he's able to hold both balls after the ball from the upper playfield falls into the held ball. In mine, the ball exiting the upper playfield will push the ball off the flipper.
I'm certain I'm at 6.5 degrees because I drew up in CAD a 6.5 degree wedge, 3d printed it, and used a standard bubble level to get level.
Does this guy have different flipper settings and/or incline? TBH, watching him play, the game plays a little easier than mine. He's definitely able to do some things that makes for easier play.
Chris

On mine with the front leg bolts all the way in and the back leg bolts almost all the way out I think it was about 6.7. I've since put the back legs at about the half way point and it seems to play a lot better. I don't know what it is now 6.2-6.3 maybe. Is it "correct" that way? Probably not, but it is the highest I can put it where I can backhand both Jesus and the Dude, and make it up the Walter ramp most of the time from the left flipper, with the flippers at default power.

1 month later
#1536 1 year ago
Quoted from eharan:

I just tested the diverter which works. However when I looked under the playfield at the Solenoid, I see that the spring on the solenoid broke. I need to get a replacement spring. Is there a part number for that spring and is it available at either Pinball Life or Marco specialties?
Thanks!
Ed

If that's a short spring it's probably this one: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-389

If it broke at the hook at the end you can probably just use the broken one by bending it make another hook.

#1556 1 year ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Rensh Is DP offering better quality bowling alley pins which are protected against breakage? 3 of 10 of mine broke apart today (yet again). As you well know it's difficult to replace them since doing so requires dismantling the entire bowling alley assembly. So I'm asking you first before I go trying to epoxy them back together, reassembling, and hoping for the best. I'm not trying to do the aforementioned "workaround" about protecting the arms from breaking the pins. Please advise, thanks.

After epoxying my many broken pins back together for the 2nd time, putting clear heat shrink around them, and using rubber rings as limiters they've held together for the last 3 months or so. Well except for my 5 pin which somehow broke at the ring part.

2 months later
#1692 1 year ago
Quoted from ezatnova:

Ugh. Had a killer game going and stuck a ball into the main scoop (mystery, not the Mark it Zero one), and it just sat there. No ball search ever. Had to kill the game by holding the button. Once it started a new game it kicked it right out, which tells me it’s NOT a switch error. Played fine after that too. Code bug? Sadly way too many White Russians to remember if it was in a mode or anything.

I had that happen on the new code when I got a mystery award for a bowling ball that also completed the set of 5. What you can do is open the coin door, pull the interlock, and manually fire the scoop coil to kick the ball out...and save your good game.

3 months later
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