I never had a switch issue. It was a gravity and physics issue. By altering the angle slightly with the washer the issue went away.

I haven’t seen this issue yet, but perhaps I missed it, if so, apologies:

If a ball is hit “lightly” into the car / let’s go bowling subway on the upper playfield, the ball sometimes gets stuck in the subway inlet. Nudges can’t unlodge it, I have to drop the glass and can push it through with my finger. It doesn’t take much pressure, but it certainly gets stuck.

I’ve confirmed the machine is level.

Any thoughts welcome...happy to snag a picture too if I’m not painting the mental image well.

What pitch do you have the game at?

My iPhone app says 7 degrees, but it slowly clicks over from 6 so I’m guessing less than 7 but more than 6. This matches other machines but perhaps my other ones are wrong too lol.

Happened to me so the fix was to adjust the opto/sensor or switch to basically see/feel the ball is present. Just moved it a bit and it’s fixed for me. Don’t remember the specifics but it’s obvious when you look at it.

I think I know what’s happening here. The upper ‘lip’ of the inlet needs to be bent up a little. The gap is slightly to narrow for the ball. To do this you have to remove the roof and walls. Than you can bent the upper lip with a plier upwards. This should take care of your problem. Relative easy fix. While the roof and walls are removed check at same time the gap setting of the two red targets. They should be trigger happy to get best working of the car.

You can see hopefully what I mean on enclosed picture. The scoop is mounted to the right of the red targets and you can see the upper lip which you have to bent upwards just a little

You will need thorx screwdriver to remove the walls and metric Allen set to remove the roof.

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Thanks, this makes a lot of sense with what I'm experiencing. I'll give it a shot tonight, appreciate the help!

Two weeks into ownership and this popped up for me. Thankful for those who have ventured this path before me. I used this technique and it got rid of the issue. Will report back if it ever comes back.

Agree.
A lot of guys who care for the machine have done a good job supporting it from day 1 (especially sd_tom and Rensh )

My Walter ramp isn’t always registering balls to add to the Walter progression. I checked the two obvious switches, both appear to be working. Whatever switch is controlling the upper flipper enablement is working every time, independent of the Walter progression. Anyone know which switch specifically adds a letter there?

My scoop is kickout the ball out at about half power all of the sudden. Changing the MS settings makes no difference. Its creating a straight down the middle drain every time. Its barely enough power to even eject the ball sometimes and tries repeatedly. My game has barely any plays on it so I wouldn't expect dirty coil sleeve or anything like that. Its for sure coil power related because the ball isn't catching on the exit, just not enough power get it up and out of there properly. I've had coil power issues with the VUK since day one. That too seems to barely make it up top and requires a couple of tries.

Has this been addressed yet? Didn't initially see anything when search scoop in this thread.

Wiring?

I had the same happening and when I looked under the playfield I found out that the assembly had come loose. Retightened it and has been perfect again ever since.

So have a look under the playfield to check this and let us know

Right Ramp Enter followed by Right Ramp Made within 1.4 seconds. Try if the timing is the issue, maybe that 1.4 should be increased in the code.

Double post

For Walter to progress the switch at start of the ramp needs to be activated as well as the switch at the end of the ramp which is on the MPF and just visible if you look through the hole where the ball appears on the MPF. See attached picture.

So in switch test you need to test both switches and in play mode you need to throw a ball up the ramp and see what happens to Walter.

Edit: after posting I saw that Koen already responded. Koen, thanks.

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I am still struggling with that right gate at the top. It just doesn't open fast enough for the majority of shots to make the orbit from the right flipper up the left side. my spring is tight, the mech is not dragging on the playfield hole, the coil and all parts are tightly fastened, etc.

I don't know how else it would be improved unless the roll over switch in the Donny lane was moved further down so the ball had to travel further up and around to give that gate more time to open.

Not sure if this is something that can be addressed in code? Is there a value for time delay between switch hit on that roll over switch and the gate opening? It needs to be instantaneous.

Question- is that a mylar being installed where the car opening path is?

I believe that is a temporary protection piece used during assembly.

I would recommend adding a mylar square where the VUK drops the ball onto the MPF if you have it apart at any time

Correct

Thank you Rensh

This was indeed the issue. One screw was missing and the other was very loose. I suspect the force of this mech is wiggling the original screws loose. I stepped up the screw thinkness to make sure it was properly tight. It appeared the holes were a little too worn for the original screws to work well. I replaced with two #8 x 1/2" Unslotted Hex Head Screws

Perhaps everyone should check their games. I'd worry about this coil breaking something if it just fell down loose and continued to fire while it's trying to eject the ball. It's very close to custom PCBs.

Missing screw, second very loose, and worn screw hole
Replaced with #8 x 1/2 Unslotted Hex Head Screw
Fixed with new screws

who else of the TBL owners had problems with breaking plastics so far? On my machine (#18) the slingshots broke pretty early and yesterday the plastic under the right wireform broke. I have to say that the plastics on TBL do not live up to the quality of the rest of the machine. The material they´re using is much too brittle imho.

IMG_1594 (resized).jpgIMG_1597 (resized).jpg

Thankfully I still have a complete plastic set here which I got from Barry because of the problems.

@fossmin's arrived, NIB with some broken plastics (in addition to some other issues as well..) so I would have to agree the quality is lacking, perhaps beyond just the plastics.

It's a shame because of how good the game is too. It's also likely representative of ~1? person doing the builds. Looking forward to a time when my machine is dialed in and I can just play (and not 'play and fix'), I'm sure I'm not alone either.

Sorry to read about your issues.

I have played approx 1300 balls and I had the scope come loose. Also I Had upon deivery a led not working and had to swap the middle board. All pcb’s go since start of the year through a more thorough test program which eliminated this issue.

No broken plastics.

One of my plastics in the back arrived broken NIB. Haven't had any issues since. Wish we could buy individual replacement pieces.

Barry should comp you a new plastic

Figure I might as well post my issue here: The Rug switch works in starting all the rug modes, but in the one rug mode where you need to bash the rug, and in the regular multiball, none of the rug shots register. Anyone have this issue?

Nope ... did you try closing the switsch/contact manual in this mode ?
Otherwise it sound like a software issue. If it only affects your game would be strange.

Did you change the softzware version over the menus. You know that TBL has several software versions installed and you can choose from ... !?

This topic was discussed in direct mail.

A theory was developed and as follows was my email to him:

Visited DP yesterday and talked about this.

Theory is as follows: during a mode the position of the rug appears to be
slightly more forward. If the rug isnt properly 100% aligned it could be it
gets tilted and thus getting less responsive as its not able to move at
that moment. If thats the case the height of the rugmotor can be adjusted
by 3 screws which are holding the motor on the bracket. Problem is to reach
them you have to remove the bracket from the plafiled

Let the rug motor do a test and see if it moves freely.

This theory was however never tested as the rug had started responding. Good to mention it here to however for future reference.

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Can you explain the logic for the location of this rubber pad? It seems to be mounted above where the ball makes contact and bounces back down the ramp so I can’t figure out how this would help, wouldnt you want it lower in line where the ball makes contact?

I’d like to do something on my game to reduce jesus ramp rejects but only want to take that upper playfield off Once if I ever attempt it!

any suggestions for protecting the rug? Other high wear locations?

Where would you put mylar down on this game?

Thoughts on a play field protector (HUO)

I cut mylar to size and put it over the rug decal. I have seen some that have taken a beating over time.

Put a piece in the shooter lane too

I have a playfield protector. Even more important I find is a shooterlane protector.

And I did cut some mylar and put it on the rug.

I fail to see the logic to in the blue pad. Mine tbl has zero reflects in the Jesus shot. If I would attempt something it would be bending the ‘flap’ you see on the picture a little more downwards.

anyone have a list of handy tools needed for this game. are all the fasteners metric?

It’s almost all metric besides the original BW parts. You will also need a set of Torx screwdrivers.

Yes ... hell lot of Torx. Unusal but it works ....

I've just started to get this issue also. Have not looked in to it yet but turning the volume down does not seem to resolve it (my initial thoughts were the speaker just couldn't handle higher volumes (but then why would it only be the right speaker and not both that had the issue?)).

Dkjimbo - have you made any progress on it?

I think it’s just vibration in the speaker panel / head. I tightened every screw I could find and messed with positioning a bit. Been fine for awhile now. I don’t keep my volume too high maybe 11-12?

... or try to unplug and re-plug the USB cable from the soundcard.
That helped for me, but on my game the sub was dead.

Howdy TBL experts -

what is the easiest way to remove/change out the rug from the rug mech?

Never had to do that. Guess it means removing the above plastic but to do this you might have to remove the MPF?

Than the rug has on each side a ‘clamp’. Think you will need to remove at least one of those so you can pull out the steel rod which is inside the rug.

Why are you looking to change out the rug? Is it beat to shit or is it something else?

QSS

Can you extend rug out and peel in off in place?

Hey guys I’m having a issue with my rug and rug motor. Both EOS switches work, the rug registers hits. Problem is the rug keeps like getting on a bind or something cause it will get stuck in the forward or reverse position. I read some posts but I don’t see if anyone has had this happen. The way the system works is tough to troubleshoot

Sounds like you have to readjust it a little. Eg the axis is under some stress. Loosen the screws and reposition it a little and see what happens in stepper motor test.

Sound problem

Big Speaker inside the cabinet stopped working
There is no sound test mode in the menu
So test it

I have sound settings at 25 by the way

Any ideas ?

Assuming your left/right backbox speakers are working.

If so, open backbox and look in the lower left corner for the audio board. At the bottom of the board is where the speakers plug into the board. Check them.

If all connected, lift playfield and check the connectors on the speaker are connected.

If all connectors are on:
Then check for either wired backwards OR cracked wire between big speaker and audio board.

If all above is correct: hook speaker up to another game to check.

If good, then bad audio board.