(Topic ID: 217437)

A lotta ins.. a lotta outs - TBL maintenance thread


By sd_tom

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 279 posts
  • 50 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 2 days ago by Rensh
  • Topic is favorited by 51 Pinsiders
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There are 279 posts in this topic. You are on page 6 of 6.
#251 74 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Interesting. I had the same issue but did a switch test and all switches were active In your theory a switch wouldn’t be pressed down. Did you do a switchtest too when you had the issue?

I never had a switch issue. It was a gravity and physics issue. By altering the angle slightly with the washer the issue went away.

#252 74 days ago

I haven’t seen this issue yet, but perhaps I missed it, if so, apologies:

If a ball is hit “lightly” into the car / let’s go bowling subway on the upper playfield, the ball sometimes gets stuck in the subway inlet. Nudges can’t unlodge it, I have to drop the glass and can push it through with my finger. It doesn’t take much pressure, but it certainly gets stuck.

I’ve confirmed the machine is level.

Any thoughts welcome...happy to snag a picture too if I’m not painting the mental image well.

#253 74 days ago
Quoted from Yokimato:

I haven’t seen this issue yet, but perhaps I missed it, if so, apologies:
If a ball is hit “lightly” into the car / let’s go bowling subway on the upper playfield, the ball sometimes gets stuck in the subway inlet. Nudges can’t unlodge it, I have to drop the glass and can push it through with my finger. It doesn’t take much pressure, but it certainly gets stuck.
I’ve confirmed the machine is level.
Any thoughts welcome...happy to snag a picture too if I’m not painting the mental image well.

What pitch do you have the game at?

#254 74 days ago
Quoted from Dkjimbo:

What pitch do you have the game at?

My iPhone app says 7 degrees, but it slowly clicks over from 6 so I’m guessing less than 7 but more than 6. This matches other machines but perhaps my other ones are wrong too lol.

#255 73 days ago
Quoted from Yokimato:

I haven’t seen this issue yet, but perhaps I missed it, if so, apologies:
If a ball is hit “lightly” into the car / let’s go bowling subway on the upper playfield, the ball sometimes gets stuck in the subway inlet. Nudges can’t unlodge it, I have to drop the glass and can push it through with my finger. It doesn’t take much pressure, but it certainly gets stuck.
I’ve confirmed the machine is level.
Any thoughts welcome...happy to snag a picture too if I’m not painting the mental image well.

Happened to me so the fix was to adjust the opto/sensor or switch to basically see/feel the ball is present. Just moved it a bit and it’s fixed for me. Don’t remember the specifics but it’s obvious when you look at it.

#256 73 days ago
Quoted from Yokimato:

I haven’t seen this issue yet, but perhaps I missed it, if so, apologies:
If a ball is hit “lightly” into the car / let’s go bowling subway on the upper playfield, the ball sometimes gets stuck in the subway inlet. Nudges can’t unlodge it, I have to drop the glass and can push it through with my finger. It doesn’t take much pressure, but it certainly gets stuck.
I’ve confirmed the machine is level.
Any thoughts welcome...happy to snag a picture too if I’m not painting the mental image well.

I think I know what’s happening here. The upper ‘lip’ of the inlet needs to be bent up a little. The gap is slightly to narrow for the ball. To do this you have to remove the roof and walls. Than you can bent the upper lip with a plier upwards. This should take care of your problem. Relative easy fix. While the roof and walls are removed check at same time the gap setting of the two red targets. They should be trigger happy to get best working of the car.

You can see hopefully what I mean on enclosed picture. The scoop is mounted to the right of the red targets and you can see the upper lip which you have to bent upwards just a little

You will need thorx screwdriver to remove the walls and metric Allen set to remove the roof.

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#257 73 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

I think I know what’s happening here. The upper ‘lip’ of the inlet needs to be bent up a little. The gap is slightly to narrow for the ball. To do this you have to remove the roof and walls. Than you can bent the upper lip with a plier upwards. This should take care of your problem. Relative easy fix. While the roof and walls are removed check at same time the gap setting of the two red targets. They should be trigger happy to get best working of the car.
You can see hopefully what I mean on enclosed picture. The scoop is mounted to the right of the red targets and you can see the upper lip which you have to bent upwards just a little
You will need thorx screwdriver to remove the walls and metric Allen set to remove the roof. [quoted image]

Thanks, this makes a lot of sense with what I'm experiencing. I'll give it a shot tonight, appreciate the help!

#258 68 days ago
Quoted from sd_tom:

copying here as its come up lately in a PM and then again in the club thread. you can get to the point of a system error popup from linux. i got this in dec 2016 and worked it out. i reported it to Barry at the time with:
----
In case this comes up for anyone else. I started getting a system program error pop up window every boot and it would pop up over the top of the TBL software.
I just fixed it, using advice here:
https://itsfoss.com/how-to-fix-system-program-problem-detected-ubuntu/
It was a piece of gnome that had crashed. So , not sure how much you want to touch the OS in software updates but maybe disable the notifier as it suggests / or clear out the /var/crash regularly?
For me, I just deleted the file, will see if it comes back (hasnt yet)
----
and i can say here in 2019 it hasn't happened again either.. i never did the extra step of disabling the service. maybe lucky in that aspect.
and given im surprised a URL from 3 years ago wasn't dead already.. the gist was to clean out the crash log directory; open a terminal and run
sudo rm /var/crash/*

Two weeks into ownership and this popped up for me. Thankful for those who have ventured this path before me. I used this technique and it got rid of the issue. Will report back if it ever comes back.

#259 64 days ago

Agree.
A lot of guys who care for the machine have done a good job supporting it from day 1 (especially sd_tom and rensh )

#260 58 days ago

My Walter ramp isn’t always registering balls to add to the Walter progression. I checked the two obvious switches, both appear to be working. Whatever switch is controlling the upper flipper enablement is working every time, independent of the Walter progression. Anyone know which switch specifically adds a letter there?

#261 57 days ago

My scoop is kickout the ball out at about half power all of the sudden. Changing the MS settings makes no difference. Its creating a straight down the middle drain every time. Its barely enough power to even eject the ball sometimes and tries repeatedly. My game has barely any plays on it so I wouldn't expect dirty coil sleeve or anything like that. Its for sure coil power related because the ball isn't catching on the exit, just not enough power get it up and out of there properly. I've had coil power issues with the VUK since day one. That too seems to barely make it up top and requires a couple of tries.

Has this been addressed yet? Didn't initially see anything when search scoop in this thread.

#262 57 days ago
Quoted from Time:

My scoop is kickout the ball out at about half power all of the sudden. Changing the MS settings makes no difference. Its creating a straight down the middle drain every time. Its barely enough power to even eject the ball sometimes and tries repeatedly. My game has barely any plays on it so I wouldn't expect dirty coil sleeve or anything like that. Its for sure coil power related because the ball isn't catching on the exit, just not enough power get it up and out of there properly. I've had coil power issues with the VUK since day one. That too seems to barely make it up top and requires a couple of tries.
Has this been addressed yet? Didn't initially see anything when search scoop in this thread.

Wiring?

#263 57 days ago
Quoted from Time:

My scoop is kickout the ball out at about half power all of the sudden. Changing the MS settings makes no difference. Its creating a straight down the middle drain every time. Its barely enough power to even eject the ball sometimes and tries repeatedly. My game has barely any plays on it so I wouldn't expect dirty coil sleeve or anything like that. Its for sure coil power related because the ball isn't catching on the exit, just not enough power get it up and out of there properly. I've had coil power issues with the VUK since day one. That too seems to barely make it up top and requires a couple of tries.
Has this been addressed yet? Didn't initially see anything when search scoop in this thread.

I had the same happening and when I looked under the playfield I found out that the assembly had come loose. Retightened it and has been perfect again ever since.

So have a look under the playfield to check this and let us know

#264 57 days ago
Quoted from Yokimato:

My Walter ramp isn’t always registering balls to add to the Walter progression. I checked the two obvious switches, both appear to be working. Whatever switch is controlling the upper flipper enablement is working every time, independent of the Walter progression. Anyone know which switch specifically adds a letter there?

Right Ramp Enter followed by Right Ramp Made within 1.4 seconds. Try if the timing is the issue, maybe that 1.4 should be increased in the code.

#265 57 days ago

Double post

#266 57 days ago
Quoted from Yokimato:

My Walter ramp isn’t always registering balls to add to the Walter progression. I checked the two obvious switches, both appear to be working. Whatever switch is controlling the upper flipper enablement is working every time, independent of the Walter progression. Anyone know which switch specifically adds a letter there?

For Walter to progress the switch at start of the ramp needs to be activated as well as the switch at the end of the ramp which is on the MPF and just visible if you look through the hole where the ball appears on the MPF. See attached picture.

So in switch test you need to test both switches and in play mode you need to throw a ball up the ramp and see what happens to Walter.

Edit: after posting I saw that Koen already responded. Koen, thanks.

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#267 57 days ago

I am still struggling with that right gate at the top. It just doesn't open fast enough for the majority of shots to make the orbit from the right flipper up the left side. my spring is tight, the mech is not dragging on the playfield hole, the coil and all parts are tightly fastened, etc.

I don't know how else it would be improved unless the roll over switch in the Donny lane was moved further down so the ball had to travel further up and around to give that gate more time to open.

Not sure if this is something that can be addressed in code? Is there a value for time delay between switch hit on that roll over switch and the gate opening? It needs to be instantaneous.

#268 57 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

For Walter to progress the switch at start of the ramp needs to be activated as well as the switch at the end of the ramp which is on the MPF and just visible if you look through the hole where the ball appears on the MPF. See attached picture.
So in switch test you need to test both switches and in play mode you need to throw a ball up the ramp and see what happens to Walter.
Edit: after posting I saw that Koen already responded. Koen, thanks.
[quoted image]

Question- is that a mylar being installed where the car opening path is?

#269 57 days ago

I believe that is a temporary protection piece used during assembly.

I would recommend adding a mylar square where the VUK drops the ball onto the MPF if you have it apart at any time

#270 57 days ago
Quoted from r6emperor:

I believe that is a temporary protection during assembly

Correct

#271 57 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

I had the same happening and when I looked under the playfield I found out that the assembly had come loose. Retightened it and has been perfect again ever since.
So have a look under the playfield to check this and let us know

Thank you Rensh

This was indeed the issue. One screw was missing and the other was very loose. I suspect the force of this mech is wiggling the original screws loose. I stepped up the screw thinkness to make sure it was properly tight. It appeared the holes were a little too worn for the original screws to work well. I replaced with two #8 x 1/2" Unslotted Hex Head Screws

Perhaps everyone should check their games. I'd worry about this coil breaking something if it just fell down loose and continued to fire while it's trying to eject the ball. It's very close to custom PCBs.

Missing screw, second very loose, and worn screw hole
Replaced with #8 x 1/2 Unslotted Hex Head Screw
Fixed with new screws

2 weeks later
#272 42 days ago

who else of the TBL owners had problems with breaking plastics so far? On my machine (#18) the slingshots broke pretty early and yesterday the plastic under the right wireform broke. I have to say that the plastics on TBL do not live up to the quality of the rest of the machine. The material they´re using is much too brittle imho.

IMG_1594 (resized).jpgIMG_1597 (resized).jpg

Thankfully I still have a complete plastic set here which I got from Barry because of the problems.

#273 42 days ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

who else of the TBL owners had problems with breaking plastics so far? On my machine (#18) the slingshots broke pretty early and yesterday the plastic under the right wireform broke. I have to say that the plastics on TBL do not live up to the quality of the rest of the machine. The material they´re using is much too brittle imho.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thankfully I still have a complete plastic set here which I got from Barry because of the problems.

fossmin's arrived, NIB with some broken plastics (in addition to some other issues as well..) so I would have to agree the quality is lacking, perhaps beyond just the plastics.

It's a shame because of how good the game is too. It's also likely representative of ~1? person doing the builds. Looking forward to a time when my machine is dialed in and I can just play (and not 'play and fix'), I'm sure I'm not alone either.

#274 42 days ago

Sorry to read about your issues.

I have played approx 1300 balls and I had the scope come loose. Also I Had upon deivery a led not working and had to swap the middle board. All pcb’s go since start of the year through a more thorough test program which eliminated this issue.

No broken plastics.

#275 42 days ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

who else of the TBL owners had problems with breaking plastics so far?

One of my plastics in the back arrived broken NIB. Haven't had any issues since. Wish we could buy individual replacement pieces.

#276 41 days ago
Quoted from Time:

One of my plastics in the back arrived broken NIB. Haven't had any issues since. Wish we could buy individual replacement pieces.

Barry should comp you a new plastic

2 weeks later
#277 21 days ago

Figure I might as well post my issue here: The Rug switch works in starting all the rug modes, but in the one rug mode where you need to bash the rug, and in the regular multiball, none of the rug shots register. Anyone have this issue?

2 weeks later
#278 2 days ago

Nope ... did you try closing the switsch/contact manual in this mode ?
Otherwise it sound like a software issue. If it only affects your game would be strange.

Did you change the softzware version over the menus. You know that TBL has several software versions installed and you can choose from ... !?

#279 2 days ago

This topic was discussed in direct mail.

A theory was developed and as follows was my email to him:

Visited DP yesterday and talked about this.

Theory is as follows: during a mode the position of the rug appears to be
slightly more forward. If the rug isnt properly 100% aligned it could be it
gets tilted and thus getting less responsive as its not able to move at
that moment. If thats the case the height of the rugmotor can be adjusted
by 3 screws which are holding the motor on the bracket. Problem is to reach
them you have to remove the bracket from the plafiled

Let the rug motor do a test and see if it moves freely.

This theory was however never tested as the rug had started responding. Good to mention it here to however for future reference.

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