(Topic ID: 217437)

A lotta ins.. a lotta outs - TBL maintenance thread


By sd_tom

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 236 posts
  • 47 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by mgpasman
  • Topic is favorited by 42 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 63 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

Screenshot_20200531-051534_Chrome (resized).jpg
8CA60E61-DB08-4625-BDAF-ECE30F624704 (resized).jpeg
20200522_172056 (resized).jpg
20200522_172115 (resized).jpg
20200522_172132 (resized).jpg
Screenshot (24) (resized).png
Screenshot (22) (resized).png
Screenshot (23) (resized).png
20200520_172053 (resized).jpg
D38E1E68-0C96-4BD7-B6FB-2B30E006E75A (resized).jpeg
604B5D66-B62A-4513-86F1-265D0BD7230A (resized).jpeg
IMG_2912 (resized).jpg
20200308_181633 (resized).jpg
22343532-65BE-411F-8A2A-029B51C875AF (resized).jpeg
8AF4DF57-9942-4C96-B993-042BCBEB0C8B (resized).jpeg
F5454703-DE0E-4604-9728-3A2C0165CFCA (resized).jpeg

There are 236 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.
#201 44 days ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

I'm having a problem with the bowling alley opto that detects bowling pin hits. Every shot is a miss.
I've swapped the optos (just in case) and confirmed the optos are getting power, but still don't see switch messages when I move my hand in front of the windows. The optos are aligned with the holes in the alley.
Any other thoughts on how I might fix or debug this?

Check the plug end - connectors. Push wires into connector with flat blade screw driver - make sure wires are seated.

Not sure if the sender and receiver are on wrong sides? Just a guess not sure it matters?

Maybe post a picture so we can compare to our machines.

#202 44 days ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Check the plug end - connectors. Push wires into connector with flat blade screw driver - make sure wires are seated.
Not sure if the sender and receiver are on wrong sides? Just a guess not sure it matters?
Maybe post a picture so we can compare to our machines.

So it worked properly for a week and then stopped working with a blown fuse. I replaced fuse, power is okay to optos. Replaced optos.
I'll mess with the connectors...

I've sent a message to Barry, but was just seeking other ideas because short of replacing the main board (please no), I'm not sure what else to test.

#203 44 days ago
Quoted from Reznnate:

So it worked properly for a week and then stopped working with a blown fuse. I replaced fuse, power is okay to optos. Replaced optos.
I'll mess with the connectors...
I've sent a message to Barry, but was just seeking other ideas because short of replacing the main board (please no), I'm not sure what else to test.

Which fuse blew?

#204 44 days ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Which fuse blew?

The fuse for the bowling alley. This is the picture I took before replacing fuse (with coindoor open).

IMG_2912 (resized).jpg
#205 44 days ago

Use your phone camera to see if the transmitter LED is working. They're Infrared so we can't see them with the naked eye, but the phone camera will show a dim purple glow.

Then you can at least know if you're getting power and it is lit

#206 44 days ago

also.. are you sure it has anything to do with the opto. the miss/hit a specific pin is determined by the orange launcher angle. there's some swtiches in that mech that it calibrates off if.

3 weeks later
#207 23 days ago

Setting this so I can track this thread.

#208 17 days ago

So I recently picked up one of the original issue group. In shipping the subwoofer came loose and caused some annoyance that had to be fixed as some things got jostled around by it. Specifically the little coupler that connects the stepper motor to the car was pulled loose and stripped out. Is there a better more bulletproof solution? The single set screw that it has on the top and bottom seem insufficient. I'm inclined to get a local machine shop to make another one with two set screws for both ends to keep it from ever coming loose. Anyone else see this is a good spot for some bulletproofing?

#209 17 days ago
Quoted from PlayableArt:

So I recently picked up one of the original issue group. In shipping the subwoofer came loose and caused some annoyance that had to be fixed as some things got jostled around by it. Specifically the little coupler that connects the stepper motor to the car was pulled loose and stripped out. Is there a better more bulletproof solution? The single set screw that it has on the top and bottom seem insufficient. I'm inclined to get a local machine shop to make another one with two set screws for both ends to keep it from ever coming loose. Anyone else see this is a good spot for some bulletproofing?

Read this post and next two...

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-official-club-thread/page/15#post-5422322

#210 17 days ago
Quoted from sd_tom:

copying here as its come up lately in a PM and then again in the club thread. you can get to the point of a system error popup from linux. i got this in dec 2016 and worked it out. i reported it to Barry at the time with:
----
In case this comes up for anyone else. I started getting a system program error pop up window every boot and it would pop up over the top of the TBL software.
I just fixed it, using advice here:
https://itsfoss.com/how-to-fix-system-program-problem-detected-ubuntu/
It was a piece of gnome that had crashed. So , not sure how much you want to touch the OS in software updates but maybe disable the notifier as it suggests / or clear out the /var/crash regularly?
For me, I just deleted the file, will see if it comes back (hasnt yet)
----
and i can say here in 2019 it hasn't happened again either.. i never did the extra step of disabling the service. maybe lucky in that aspect.
and given im surprised a URL from 3 years ago wasn't dead already.. the gist was to clean out the crash log directory; open a terminal and run
sudo rm /var/crash/*

Adding to this, I found the best way to open terminal from the game is:

1. hookup a USB keyboard
2. Press "Esc" to exit the running TBL game code
3. From the black desktop screen press "Ctrl" + "Alt" + "F1"

Login: dp
Password: dp

#211 17 days ago

Barry is sending me a new stepper motor to fix the whining noise after let’s go bowling is active. Question is after removing the wires how do I go about taking off the attached ball cradle to replace the motor? Anyone have any tips?

#212 17 days ago
Quoted from JimB:

Barry is sending me a new stepper motor to fix the whining noise after let’s go bowling is active. Question is after removing the wires how do I go about taking off the attached ball cradle to replace the motor? Anyone have any tips?

Which stepper is this?

#213 16 days ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Which stepper is this?

Bowling alley

604B5D66-B62A-4513-86F1-265D0BD7230A (resized).jpegD38E1E68-0C96-4BD7-B6FB-2B30E006E75A (resized).jpeg
#214 16 days ago

Wow that is a lot of information. This is going to take time. Thank you for the link. Does Pinside not have a setting where it can email you when someone responds to your forum posts? I'm sure I'm missing it in the settings.

#215 16 days ago
Quoted from JimB:

Barry is sending me a new stepper motor to fix the whining noise after let’s go bowling is active. Question is after removing the wires how do I go about taking off the attached ball cradle to replace the motor? Anyone have any tips?

The ball cradle is I believe attached with a simple Allen screw to the axes of the stepper motor. So simple to do if you have the right Allen key. Think it’s metric however.

#216 14 days ago

Dudes_

Has anyone had and figured out the garage door closing stutter? I sent Barry a message but haven't heard back. It starts every time you begin a ball in the shooter lane for about 5 to 10 seconds, then stops.... and same when you drain a ball.

On another item. I have played a couple of the original 52 games. I have seen where the carpet decal on the roller will start to separate over time. I just opened my game last weekend so I decided to cut a strip of mylar and wrap it around the carpet to help protect and keep the decal in tact. Has anyone else done the same thing? I hope to avoid taking that mech apart sometime down the road_

#217 14 days ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

Has anyone had and figured out the garage door closing stutter? I sent Barry a message but haven't heard back. It starts every time you begin a ball in the shooter lane for about 5 to 10 seconds, then stops.... and same when you drain a ball.

kidchrisso Fix: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/2#post-5326843

#219 14 days ago

So mine was a little different. It wasnt that the screws were in too tight, it was the switch needed a slight angle to it, see photo attached. Thanks for leading me to the video

20200520_172053 (resized).jpg
#220 14 days ago
Quoted from kidchrisso:

just opened my game last weekend so I decided to cut a strip of mylar and wrap it around the carpet to help protect and keep the decal in tact.

i actually used clear packing tape (almost perfect width) years ago and has worked out well. that's almost mylar right?

#221 14 days ago
Quoted from sd_tom:

i actually used clear packing tape (almost perfect width) years ago and has worked out well. that's almost mylar right?

At least it wasn't duct tape

#222 12 days ago

So I'm trying to put my rug assembly back together, and I don't have any pictures of it. I took it apart a long time ago because I was having rug issues, and it was already apart when I did my total tear down.

Looking through this thread I found a few pictures for reference, but they are all assembled differently. My concern is the driveshaft nut for the stepper motor and the bracket that attaches it to the rug carriage.

I found closed side of the bracket out, drive nut on top:
Screenshot (22) (resized).png

Open side of bracket out, drive nut on top:
Screenshot (23) (resized).png

And open side of bracket out, Drive nut underneath:
Screenshot (24) (resized).png

Can you guys please take a picture of your rug assembly so we can get a consensus on how this is supposed to be assembled? If you have had rug issues in the past, please make note of it. Maybe it 'works' any way it is assembled, but needs to be a certain way to function 100%

#223 12 days ago
20200522_172056 (resized).jpg20200522_172115 (resized).jpg20200522_172132 (resized).jpg
#224 12 days ago

Thanks Time

So you are open side out with the drive nut on top. Have you had any issues with your rug? Do you have an ARA game or one of the new Barry-built games?

I'm pretty sure that is how mine was before disassembly

#225 12 days ago
Quoted from r6emperor:

Thanks Time
So you are open side out with the drive nut on top. Have you had any issues with your rug? Do you have an ARA game or one of the new Barry-built games?
I'm pretty sure that is how mine was before disassembly

I've had no issues with the rug. I greased the spindle when I first got the game. Other than that its stock. It's a late ARA game.

#226 12 days ago

They changed the style of assembly as they found one style easier to do. Just trying to remember which style they choose at the end. I think it was the style beneath as if memory serves me right it doesn’t require any extra nuts if I recollect correctly.

Which one you choose on the end doesn’t make any difference for working, both are fine.

#227 12 days ago

Thanks again.

I have decided that I'm going to go with the underneath nut mounting, open side of the bracket out. Not only for the easier mounting, but also to get the nut a little closer to the centerline of the bracket, hopefully making it run a little smoother with less binding.

1 week later
#228 5 days ago

Today I decided to connect a keyboard and enable the wifi. Once I did that, the game does not want to boot anymore. The tumbleweed scene just freezes. If I remove the wifi stick, or forget the wifi-connection, all works OK.

I notice that when I remove the black USB cable (P-ROC) and re-plug, it also boots. This feels like some kind of USB conflict. Anyone any ideas?

rensh ?

#229 5 days ago

i think the USB ports on those AsRock motherboards are kind of flakey in general. I bought a backup one that I use for my garage PC, and things are getting disconnected/connected randomly on that as well. I ended up finding the one port that seemed most reliable, and put a USB hub in that (for garage PC). For the TBL I just don't touch it too much.. the way everything is fixed mounted, less wiggling going on.

So, it could be if you plugged it all in again, it would be fine. There is also USB 3.0 vs USB 2.0 ports which could factor

#230 5 days ago

I found it only to properly working if I installed it in the top port most away from the metal backplate. Since than it is stable. See attached picture.

I have seen At the start same as you. I changed position of the dongle but also the programmer did something with their website. So not sure what it was than.

I am running a trial for DP with their live server and this works fine. Even the life Dmd display shows OK and game stats are also displayed. If you are not using this there is not much use for the WiFi I think. To get to their life server you need special license number.

My DP page can be seen at https://www.dutchpinball.com/tbl/live/0ac244ce74bc

8CA60E61-DB08-4625-BDAF-ECE30F624704 (resized).jpeg

#231 4 days ago
Quoted from sd_tom:

i think the USB ports on those AsRock motherboards are kind of flakey in general. I bought a backup one that I use for my garage PC, and things are getting disconnected/connected randomly on that as well. I ended up finding the one port that seemed most reliable, and put a USB hub in that (for garage PC). For the TBL I just don't touch it too much.. the way everything is fixed mounted, less wiggling going on.
So, it could be if you plugged it all in again, it would be fine. There is also USB 3.0 vs USB 2.0 ports which could factor

TBL uses Mission Pinball Framework as its core programming framework. In MPF, physical USB port addresses are hard coded in the yaml files by default. Unless DP wrote something special to manage USB, then yes changing the USB ports around would interfere with the p-roc and MPF talking to each other.

#232 4 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

I found it only to properly working if I installed it in the top port most away from the metal backplate. Since than it is stable. See attached picture.
I have seen At the start same as you. I changed position of the dongle but also the programmer did something with their website. So not sure what it was than.
I am running a trial for DP with their live server and this works fine. Even the life Dmd display shows OK and game stats are also displayed. If you are not using this there is not much use for the WiFi I think. To get to their life server you need special license number.
My DP page can be seen at https://www.dutchpinball.com/tbl/live/0ac244ce74bc
[quoted image]

By having Wi-Fi turned on doesn’t the operating system (Ubuntu) try to update itself?

#233 4 days ago

I have swapped around the USB connections and didn’t seem to interfere with the Proc. I did set the WiFi dongle as far away as possible from the metal backplate to get best reliable results. Tried also an extension lead but that didn’t work strangely enough. The white usb cable you see behind the WiFi dongle is an extension cable leading to the coindoor so I can hook up an USB key if an update is there. Now I have installed there a keyboard dongle for a combo keyboard and mouse.

One thing which doesn’t work with me is an usbhub. Tried several but all refuse to work. Any idea what’s causing this?

#234 4 days ago
Quoted from Time:

TBL uses Mission Pinball Framework as its core programming framework.

you mean PyProcGame, or SkeletonGame.. mission pinball didn't exist when TBL first shipped.

secondly, i am not talking about not finding the multimorphic parts.. talking about certain thing not working or cutting out (intermittent). on the non-game ASRock Motherboard i have, it just seems like the usb ports are not well made and allow a lot of wiggling around of usb devices that actually causes things to disconnect.

#235 4 days ago

ASRock Q1900-ITX back panel, and angle very hard to see with the one mounted

the black ones are usb2.0 and the blue ones are usb3.0

Screenshot_20200531-051534_Chrome (resized).jpg

#236 3 days ago
Quoted from Time:

adamross I fixed the car spazzing outing issue. Along with the v0.51 update, the car is now buttery smooth and doesn't open/close rapidly on start/end ball. The issue is in fact related to the home position switch. I found that over-tightening the topmost screw actually kinks the switch out. Maybe it's putting pressure on the switch internally as well. I loosened the screw up a little and it fixed the spaz issue. I didn't initially think this was the problem because the switch was making contact with the car no problem before and after adjustment. I fiddle with it a bit pulling the switch tab out further and that didn't help. So it might be an internal issue with overtightening. Not sure if it will ever move again on me but this is confirmed the issue I was seeing.
Support video:

Hah. I had the same problem yesterday. First the car would not close properly (kept on rattling), then I moved the switch back in place and tightened the screw. But now it is closed and it seems not to open anymore (might be because it does not detect it is closed?). I will try fiddling around with the screw later today.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
14,000 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Lehigh Valley, PA
$ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
$ 259.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
$ 24.25
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
$ 50.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Back Alley Creations
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 27.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
$ 22.50
$ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Filament Printing
$ 18.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
$ 20.00
Various Novelties
GC Pinball
$ 42.99
Lighting - Interactive
Lee's Parts
There are 236 posts in this topic. You are on page 5 of 5.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside