(Topic ID: 217437)

A lotta ins.. a lotta outs - TBL maintenance thread

By sd_tom

6 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 hours ago by ThePinballCo-op
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There are 2,445 posts in this topic. You are on page 49 of 49.
#2401 39 days ago

I'm suddenly getting random mid-game resets - will be playing a game and everything will freeze for a second, then the screen will go black briefly, and then show the "Loading...." picture. I'm not sure it's losing power, as it doesn't go back to the initial AsRock screen (like it does on a full reboot)? Any suggestions - loose cable perhaps?

#2402 37 days ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Hi Rensh and all. I have a bad issue with my playfield locking arms / hinges that lock the PF into place. The left-side hinge is bent to the left and it will not lock. Instead when I bring the playfield up and forward into the locking position, the left hinge sneaks to the left of the playfield and it doesn't find its locking post. The hinge arm or entire assembly is clearly bent left. I believe this happened due to a side art I installed that was too thick, pushing the rear side of the PF out of alignment. So when trying to lift and lock it later, the arm/hinge in question got bent. I just took that side art off.
My question isn't about how this happened. I need help with how to fix it. What I've tried so far:
1. I've searched everywhere online for how to realign the problem arm/hinge but cannot find any clear instructions/advice.
2. Lift the PF into the vertical position without locking and strapped it so that it doesn't fall and enable me to take the attached photos.
3. Tried to bend the problem arm/hinge back into its flush with the PF rails but no matter what I do it remains bent to the left. I also don't want to do anything stupid to make matters worse.
In other words, nothing I've tried puts the arm/hinge back into alignment--it won't seem to bend with any type of minimal force. The arm is consistently not flush with the PF so it will never lock.
Photos attached of the problem LEFT side and the ok RIGHT side hinge/arm. It's difficult to take photos showing the alignment / bend issues but hopefully these help. If there are any other photos or details I can provide please let me know.
LEFT SIDE (PROBLEM HINGE/ARM):
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
RIGHT SIDE (OK):
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

As a follow-up, Rensh and team helped advise on next steps (DP support truly is the BEST!). Looks like the right thing to do is replace the Playfield Slide Assembly - Left instead of trying to bend the bad one's arm back. So I'm awaiting the part from PinballLife which thankfully isn't that expensive and hopefully I can swap it in without removing the entire PF from the cabinet. Will follow up here once I have it installed.

1 week later
#2403 30 days ago
Quoted from timlah79:

As a follow-up, Rensh and team helped advise on next steps (DP support truly is the BEST!). Looks like the right thing to do is replace the Playfield Slide Assembly - Left instead of trying to bend the bad one's arm back. So I'm awaiting the part from PinballLife which thankfully isn't that expensive and hopefully I can swap it in without removing the entire PF from the cabinet. Will follow up here once I have it installed.

All is fixed! I was able to replace the Left Playfield Slide assembly without removing the PF from the cabinet. I carefully got the PF into it's utmost vertical position and strapped it to the backbox (with the strap DP thankfully provides). After all was secure and the PF was as upright as it could be (you need to do so so that the lower part of the locking arm is lifted above it's wood guide), it was simply a matter of removing 9 wood screws that hold the bent assembly to the bottom of the PF, pull that one out, put the new one in and re-screw all 9 to secure the new one. This was far simpler of a repair than I thought it would be. In this process I also learned better how the locking assembly works in general. I do still believe it's possible that the thickness of the side art I had (which I've now removed) was somewhat to blame for pushing the PF to the right and therefore causing the left locking arm to bend to the left side of the PF as I pulled it out. But chances are that this could've been my fault all along, not being careful enough when lifting and pulling the PF forward -- aka not realizing the PF wasn't fully centered when pulling it out then up. I will be far more careful in the future when I have to lift it. I'm just stoked its now fixed with minimal cost and effort.

Thank you Rensh for pointing me to the right part and taking the time to confirm on your end that it was the right one. You and your team go above and beyond when it comes to support and I'm very thankful.

#2405 23 days ago

Had a 5 character MB last night was excited. I think I was in the middle of a car mode. Started the MB and then flippers died. Completely unresponsive. All balls drained and ball save ran out and then flippers came back on line. I think the MB continued to run with no balls. Was having a really great game too. Played 7 more games no hang ups. This sort of thing does concern me. I wish that there was a straight connection between flipper buttons and flippers. It's like software is between the 2 to control the upper flipper, 2nd time I've had the software have a brain fart and left me with no balls.

#2406 23 days ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Had a 5 character MB last night was excited. I think I was in the middle of a car mode. Started the MB and then flippers died. Completely unresponsive. All balls drained and ball save ran out and then flippers came back on line. I think the MB continued to run with no balls. Was having a really great game too. Played 7 more games no hang ups. This sort of thing does concern me. I wish that there was a straight connection between flipper buttons and flippers. It's like software is between the 2 to control the upper flipper, 2nd time I've had the software have a brain fart and left me with no balls.

Did also the animations on the display ‘stutter’?

I have had a few cases were a bad ssd caused the TBL to stop working for a few seconds and than continue. Like the datastream needed to catch up.

With the low pricing of SSD nowadays easy to try out. See service faq page 175 for how-to and which ssd we reccomend nowadays.

#2407 23 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Did also the animations on the display ‘stutter’?
I have had a few cases were a bad ssd caused the TBL to stop working for a few seconds and than continue. Like the datastream needed to catch up.
With the low pricing of SSD nowadays easy to try out. See service faq page 175 for how-to and which ssd we reccomend nowadays.

When I first got the pin the video did stutter a lot for the first couple of games. I will look not a new ssd.

#2408 17 days ago

Happy 4th dudes! I’m getting repeated stuck jet switch failures in the test. The jet works fine and when I fiddle with it a bit, the alert will clear. Any idea on how to more permanently address?

Checked FAQ guide and didn’t see anything.

Thanks!

#2409 17 days ago
Quoted from Livin:

Happy 4th dudes! I’m getting repeated stuck jet switch failures in the test. The jet works fine and when I fiddle with it a bit, the alert will clear. Any idea on how to more permanently address?
Checked FAQ guide and didn’t see anything.
Thanks!

This sounds like regular switch adjusting eg make the gap wider.

See also

#2410 17 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

This sounds like regular switch adjusting eg make the gap wider.
See also

Thanks so much Rens, I’ll give it a shot!

#2411 16 days ago

My bass keeps cutting out - i’ve turn down the potentiometer several times, but after a reboot and several plays it will cut out eventually again. Seems weird that I had zero issues for months, and then sloely over time its gotten progressively more sensitive to cutting out? Any tips Rensh ?

Thanks!

#2412 16 days ago
Quoted from Hershmeister:

My bass keeps cutting out - i’ve turn down the potentiometer several times, but after a reboot and several plays it will cut out eventually again. Seems weird that I had zero issues for months, and then sloely over time its gotten progressively more sensitive to cutting out? Any tips Rensh ?
Thanks!

Is there a stereo audio cable connection? Check the audio connectors. A loose one will cause partial or complete cutting out.

#2413 15 days ago
Quoted from Hershmeister:

My bass keeps cutting out - i’ve turn down the potentiometer several times, but after a reboot and several plays it will cut out eventually again. Seems weird that I had zero issues for months, and then sloely over time its gotten progressively more sensitive to cutting out? Any tips Rensh ?
Thanks!

Hi

Sorry about this. Have no other reports about continu needing to adjust potmeter. Can it be perhaps that you are playing at louder volume levels as months ago?

Also, which type of PSU you have in backbox? Since sn 950 we are using new style with distri board. For audio it also uses -12 to +12VDC eg a voltage range of 24V which means less current needed for same power meaning less heat and likely less chance of overheating the amplifier causing it to shut down. Can’t recall getting people needing to adjust potmeter but that’s not a guarantee it doesn’t happen

#2414 15 days ago
Quoted from Livin:

Happy 4th dudes! I’m getting repeated stuck jet switch failures in the test. The jet works fine and when I fiddle with it a bit, the alert will clear. Any idea on how to more permanently address?
Checked FAQ guide and didn’t see anything.
Thanks!

Also, if you are moving the skirt to get it to register normally make sure the spoon underneath is perfectly centered to where it should be with the skirt at resting position. If it is off center a bit when the ball moves the skirt it can get jammed and will constantly register. Loosen the switch on the bracket and adjust.

#2415 15 days ago
Quoted from aaron6920:

Also, if you are moving the skirt to get it to register normally make sure the spoon underneath is perfectly centered to where it should be with the skirt at resting position. If it is off center a bit when the ball moves the skirt it can get jammed and will constantly register. Loosen the switch on the bracket and adjust.

Good advice. I saw that in the video Rens shared. I’ll take a look at that for sure. I appreciate the input!

#2416 14 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Hi
Sorry about this. Have no other reports about continu needing to adjust potmeter. Can it be perhaps that you are playing at louder volume levels as months ago?
Also, which type of PSU you have in backbox? Since sn 950 we are using new style with distri board. For audio it also uses -12 to +12VDC eg a voltage range of 24V which means less current needed for same power meaning less heat and likely less chance of overheating the amplifier causing it to shut down. Can’t recall getting people needing to adjust potmeter but that’s not a guarantee it doesn’t happen

I have serial 791 (oct 2022 build date)

#2417 14 days ago
Quoted from Hershmeister:

I have serial 791 (oct 2022 build date)

OK. This Means ‘old’ style PSU.

In case you wanna upgrade this is eur 210 incl post shipping.

However, just try lowering the potmeter a little further and see were this leads.

#2418 13 days ago

Upper playfield flipper quit working after less than 100 plays. Connection looks good, bad coil?

IMG_0079 (resized).jpegIMG_0079 (resized).jpeg
#2419 13 days ago
Quoted from Sanfordpk:

Upper playfield flipper quit working after less than 100 plays. Connection looks good, bad coil? [quoted image]

Check the switch inside the cabinet opposite that flipper button and make sure all the blades connect when the flipper is fully depressed. If not, bend the blades closer to the flipper button to make sure they contact each other easier. Also make sure that the wires to the flipper switch inside the cabinet are all connected firmly to the switch stack.

If the flipper switch checks out, maybe check the fuses?

It's REALLY unlikely that a coil fails so soon, so those are two things I'd look at first.

#2420 12 days ago
Quoted from Sanfordpk:

Upper playfield flipper quit working after less than 100 plays. Connection looks good, bad coil? [quoted image]

Have you done a coil test on the upper flipper from the test menu? If you have and it works, have you checked to make sure that the switches on the entry to the upper playfield are working? The upper flipper only works when the ball is detected on upper playfield, if the switch detecting entry to the upper playfield isn't working, the flipper won't be energized.

#2421 12 days ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Check the switch inside the cabinet opposite that flipper button and make sure all the blades connect when the flipper is fully depressed. If not, bend the blades closer to the flipper button to make sure they contact each other easier. Also make sure that the wires to the flipper switch inside the cabinet are all connected firmly to the switch stack.
If the flipper switch checks out, maybe check the fuses?
It's REALLY unlikely that a coil fails so soon, so those are two things I'd look at first.

Aren't the flippers opto switches on TBL? I haven't looked on mine but I believe someone tried swapping them out for leaf switches at one time and ended up going back to opto switches.

#2422 12 days ago
Quoted from Insanity199:

Aren't the flippers opto switches on TBL? I haven't looked on mine but I believe someone tried swapping them out for leaf switches at one time and ended up going back to opto switches.

Don't have one, so don't know. If it has a separate opto for the top flippers, same principal applies - clean the optos and see if that resolves the issue.

#2423 12 days ago

It’s easy to test if opto is the suspect, put TBL in switchtest and see what happens if button is pressed.

TBL has a seperate opto for bottom and upper right flipper.

#2424 12 days ago
Quoted from justyn:

Following as this exact problem just started happening with my left flipper....

has anyone found the fix for this? I have the same problem with my right flipper?
And anyone have any further solutions on the scoop going sdtm?

#2425 12 days ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Hi TBL Owners,
Has anybody ever installed a convenience outlet in their TBL?
Don't get me wrong, I love my TBL (serial # 620), and I am thrilled with the machine overall as well as the fantastic support and with Rens.
I just on more than one occasion found myself missing a 120v outlet (or I guess there could be a 220v for the Euro's) like what is found in WPC and my SS Bally's.
I guess the easiest (and probably the wonkiest way) would be to tap the power input cord to a short extension or surge strip and just plug into there.
I wonder if anyone came up with an elegant way to do this - like putting a plug on the tilt panel ala an old Bally SS tilt panel? Thanks, mk</blockquot

has anyone found the fix for this? I have the same problem with my right flipper?
And anyone have any further solutions on the scoop going sdtm?

I just dropped in new balls. I'm sure they'll magnetize again, but it will likely be time for another new set by then. Also going to drop one of these in:
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-16809

#2426 12 days ago
Quoted from jackd104:

Just near the top and going down and inch or so. [quoted image]

I’m going to order Velcro from Amazon. What dimensions Velcro should I get? Do you remember roughly how wide a strip worked for you?
Thanks.

#2427 10 days ago

Any news on the gentleman that was going to make the new and improved Hollywood Lane Sign?

#2428 10 days ago
Quoted from jukeboxtim:

Any news on the gentleman that was going to make the new and improved Hollywood Lane Sign?

Stumblor has plans, list open: https://stumblorpinball.com/en-us/products/tbl

Was there someone else as well?

#2429 9 days ago
Quoted from jukeboxtim:

Any news on the gentleman that was going to make the new and improved Hollywood Lane Sign?

I asked last week and it’s still planned….

“We've currently got two builds ongoing at the moment - the first main one being Subway, but in parallel we're now also doing a couple mini runs of the Tokyo Neon and Lolly UFO that have been hanging around waiting for ages. Once those are done (I'm hoping in around a months time) we'll be straight into the Hollywood signs

Not long to go now - thanks for your patience”

#2430 8 days ago

Help - installed the Electric Playground topper - very cool.

I have a few switches stuck in the upper playfield after all this...

thumbnail_IMG_7302 (resized).jpgthumbnail_IMG_7302 (resized).jpg
#2431 7 days ago
Quoted from WarriorPin:

Help - installed the Electric Playground topper - very cool.
I have a few switches stuck in the upper playfield after all this...[quoted image]

Did you see the instruction about skipping putting a screw back into the board on the right? If you do, weird things can happen. Check that.

#2432 7 days ago
Quoted from gambit3113:

Did you see the instruction about skipping putting a screw back into the board on the right? If you do, weird things can happen. Check that.

Yes, I did skip that screw as I saw the wires from the topper insert blocking it...

#2433 7 days ago

Just cracked the target next to the scoop. Has anyone repaired/replaced these? lil help

#2434 7 days ago
Quoted from Oneironaut:

Just cracked the target next to the scoop. Has anyone repaired/replaced these? lil help

Currently we are using these

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-oblong-stand-up-targets.html

They have slightly different height as previous type from different supplier so in order to keep similar appearance I recommend to replace them as a set eg all 3.

#2435 6 days ago
Quoted from Sanfordpk:

Upper playfield flipper quit working after less than 100 plays. Connection looks good, bad coil? [quoted image]

Where is the linkage? That's gotta be the issue here, right? Nobody has mentioned it. Am I taking crazy pills?

Look in the bottom of the cabinet.

#2436 6 days ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

Where is the linkage? That's gotta be the issue here, right? Nobody has mentioned it. Am I taking crazy pills?
Look in the bottom of the cabinet.

Initially I thought the same thing but after closer review, there's a light gray linkage I believe.

#2437 6 days ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

Where is the linkage? That's gotta be the issue here, right? Nobody has mentioned it. Am I taking crazy pills?
Look in the bottom of the cabinet.

Yup, pills it is as a linkage is clearly visible in the picture

#2438 5 days ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Yup, pills it is as a linkage is clearly visible in the picture

omg. I see it when I use my phone but not on my laptop. It's all the same color.

ok, carry on.

#2439 5 days ago
Quoted from WarriorPin:

Help - installed the Electric Playground topper - very cool.
I have a few switches stuck in the upper playfield after all this...[quoted image]

Any help here?

#2440 4 days ago

I assume you started with checking if the display is telling the trueth. Easiest one is the right nihilist, red standup targetefr of the Walter ramp. Just unplug it and see if it clears the message. If yes, switch was truly stuck. And so work your way through the messages. For the ones on the upper mini playfield check if the ribbon cable is still in properly seated at both ends. Did you also check all fuses?

I don’t know this topper so have no idea if this interferes with TBL and if during installation you might have interrupted something.

#2441 2 days ago
Quoted from Ceemunkey:

I'm suddenly getting random mid-game resets - will be playing a game and everything will freeze for a second, then the screen will go black briefly, and then show the "Loading...." picture. I'm not sure it's losing power, as it doesn't go back to the initial AsRock screen (like it does on a full reboot)? Any suggestions - loose cable perhaps?

Hmmm this is happening more often now - anyone have the game resetting on them? It never used to happen.

Also, the clear window to the bowling alley is starting to get pretty scratched up - is there any way to shine it up a bit using a plastic polishing kit or something?

#2442 9 hours ago

Blowing F3 under the playfield which controls all the main solenoids... Repalced fuse on boot up fuse blows before even starting a game. I found one locked on coil, but game still blows F3 which controls most of the 48v Any help would be appreciated my dudes!

IMG_6160 (resized).jpegIMG_6160 (resized).jpeg
#2443 7 hours ago
Quoted from mrclean:

Blowing F3 under the playfield which controls all the main solenoids... Repalced fuse on boot up fuse blows before even starting a game. I found one locked on coil, but game still blows F3 which controls most of the 48v Any help would be appreciated my dudes!
[quoted image]

Did you check the transistor that drives the locked-on coil? The lock-on could have been from the transistor and not the coil shorting.

#2444 3 hours ago
Quoted from mrclean:

Blowing F3 under the playfield which controls all the main solenoids... Repalced fuse on boot up fuse blows before even starting a game. I found one locked on coil, but game still blows F3 which controls most of the 48v Any help would be appreciated my dudes!
[quoted image]

What is the locked on coil?

This happened to me. It was the transistor. I made a whole history about how to find it and replace it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread?tq=&tu=ThePinballCo-op

#2445 3 hours ago
Quoted from Ceemunkey:

Hmmm this is happening more often now - anyone have the game resetting on them? It never used to happen.
Also, the clear window to the bowling alley is starting to get pretty scratched up - is there any way to shine it up a bit using a plastic polishing kit or something?

I believe it's the same exact part as what's used in the creature from the black lagoon. Maybe Rensh can confirm, but if so that part is readily available at either Marco and/or Pinball Life.

If you're looking for tips to fix the one you already own, get in line buddy!

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