The question is how the stepper rod connects to the car or the stepper motor itself.

Either case you need to separate that bracket and get under the car.

Take plenty pictures as you take apart.

FYI this will happen to others as well - the more you smash the car during play.

So you can be the first to post pictures for all of us!

I'll investigate. Yes, I'd assume this is a common occurrence. I'm sure the solution is easier than I think. Again, it doesn't affect gameplay to any notable extent, just like to sort everything out. I also sent an email out to Barry with this question.
Thx cpr9999

I checked my car and it does not move at all. Solid.

Let’s see what Barry says.
Post a summary.

Thx

Thanks cpr9999
So, I got the car solid. It was the little screws below the car that had come a hair loose. Not a lot, but just enough to allow that wiggle room. Getting to it was a bit of a challenge, but challenge met.

I had too many things going on and not enough hands, so sorry didn't take pics. Sorry.

So, on the stepper motor, underneath the playfield, there are three gold brackets. The highest bracket, closest to the playfield, needed to be loosened against the center nut. This disconnected the rod holding the garage door and car from the stepper motor unit. Unfortunately, there is a small washer attached to that playfield rod that doesn't allow the rod to come all the way out, although it ultimately did allow enough room to get the work done. Once on top of the upper playfield, I needed to disconnect the facade of the garage (a move that I have used to access the handicap switches before), but also the plastic and metal ramp assembly as well as the ball trough guide that comes up from the vertical upkicker. I did the latter because I realized that I still did not have the angle to get a screwdriver under the car, so with that metal trough guide, I also I took the back wall of the playfield off (black wall with bowling pin to left, easy, only five screws), and then I swung the car door 180° so that the screws underneath the car were beyond the back of the playfield. I then raised the playfield I could see the underside of the car, and tightened the living bejesus out of those screws. Then I did everything in reverse. The car is now tight and fastened nicely to the garage door, all is well and playing well

Awesome- thanks for the future tip!

I just got my TBL and I'm having a problem. I followed the install guide, but when I turn on the pin I get taken to a setup utility screen. I've tried pushing the buttons inside the coin slot, but there is no response on the screen. I'm not sure what to do to get this to boot up into the software to play the game. I've tried holding down on the "Begin Test" button, but nothing happens. Any idea what I should try?

IMG_20200114_175429 (resized).jpg

Reboot machine.

That is the pc bios screen

Thanks, how do I reboot it?

I've tried the power button, but it just goes back to this same screen?

That’s not good, it means the pc is not seeing your harddrive at all.

2 options:
A. email Barry for replacement harddrive to plug in
B. Plug in a usb keyboard to pc in the backbox to troubleshoot. If you are not PC savvy Barry is the better route.

If pc savvy- take the translite out so you can see backbox and pc inside. First check that there is a harddrive connected. Next using keyboard tab through bios above to see if the pc sees the harddrive.
“Boot” tab above - here is a picture.
09DF82E0-7B22-4BF3-B681-EAEDB70FF3CA (resized).png

Barry can be very helpful, and he is very good to respond to your queries. I'm sure this has an easy solution, but as cpr9999 mentions, you will likely have to attach a keyboard and mouse to the computer inside the backbox in the upper left to navigate that screen you see. While you are inside the backbox, you can make sure everything looks well seated/connected.

If needed, here is his contact:
Barry Driessen
[email protected]

Thanks for the suggestions, I got my pin up and running after talking with Barry.

The hard drive cable came unplugged from the power supply during shipping. Got it plugged in and its up and running.

Doing this from memory when I made a couple of these playfields.

1) remove the roof of the building. Disconnect cable going to the flasher.
2) remove the walls (torx screwdriver needed)
2A) can’t recall anymore if the mini ramp above the car door has to be removed to yes or no. I think it’s yes and that’s just a few easy screws. When mounting the mini ramp back into place make sure you mount it as much as possible to the left when installing back the nut at the spot of the switch to make sure the car door doesn’t hit it.
3) the axl of the car door is below the playfield fixed To the axl of the steppermotor with something I don’t know English name. Is has brass color. Just follow the axl with you eyes and you will see what I mean. This part needs to be loosened. Once that is loosened you can pull out the car door with car attached. Car is attached to bracket with two screws which don’t have loctite.

It isn’t to difficult. Biggest issue I think will be loosening the gold part as that is at the back of the playfield and more difficult to get to.
428C4577-1369-4759-A0C0-4AE91517A2AA (resized).jpeg

Makes sense.

Why the heck did DP use this way to connect the car shaft rod to the motor. A simple coupler with set screws would have been way better. See picture.

So I think the issue is going on with brass is easy however is there a brass crush ring in there? I think the issue is getting this off to pull the car shaft rod through?
89C7B7A8-6A29-4013-BA88-72F7125CDDE8 (resized).png

You don’t have to get it completely off, just loosen it will do it.

I have no idea why this part was selected by ARA. Perhaps because the shaft dimensions are different at each end? It does work however and loosing it is no problem.

Got mine today and I’m getting a loud whining sound when the coin door is close which stops when open. It’s the cradle for the bowling alley. I can feel motion or spinning that will stop whining temporarily when I press on it. Anyone had this problem?

When I had to tighten the screws underneath the car, I was quite surprised to see that compression fitting on the upper rod when I disconnected the brass screws from rod(s) connected to the stepper motor. I had no idea how to get that compression fitting off. Fortunately, with the roof, garage facade and ramp assembly off, and in taking off the ball trough that comes up from the VUK, I was able to get an extra ~two inches of play with the shaft/rod that runs down through the playfield, I just took the backboard of the playfield off, spun the car backwards so that I could get to the screws under the car while standing on my head while reaching underneath the playfield, haha...
if you don't mind to add a note as to how you went about taking that compression nut off, I'm sure that I and others would appreciate that knowledge.
if you did take the compression nut off, was it easy to put it back on? And if so, how did you do it?
Sounds like there maybe some alternatives to the current locking assembly attaching the two shafts?
Thanks!!

How can I lower the number of airballs? Flipper power? Something else?

Mostly the targets, this one that’s green is the worst

1DBEEB19-E20E-4E7B-882D-D6F68B3683FE (resized).jpeg

There is an adjustment setting in the menu to change the power of the flippers. I know I've changed the power on my upper PF flipper before.

Lots force to remove the compression ring.

Here are some ideas:

When you open the coindoor iT disables the highvoltage part like coils but also the stepper motor. Which is why it stopped whining.

You can Little loosen up the four screws which hold the steppermotor and the screws which hold the mounting other side and fiddle a little with it to find a position which has less tension. The whining is caused by the motor which encounters to much force to make it turn.

Pls do note that testing with playfield in vertical position is quite different as in horizontal position so you need to put it horizontal for proper testing.

Good video! Thanks!!

Thanks, do you think the play field angle also could be causing this? There is no bubble so I’m using the PinGuy app trying to get more pitch. Otherwise I’ve read to bend the target more forward too.

Checked with DP.

This is already in process to change this construction As also they are not so happy with how it’s done now. Remember: DP set only functionality to ARA but ARA could choose how to create that functionality. Among others it will also envolve D-shaped axes like mentioned above

Anyone having issues with balls flying off the upper playfield when they go around the loop and dropping in to the bottom of the cabinet? Every 20 or so plays, you hear a thunk and I have to fish the ball out from inside the cab and put it back on the playfield.

Thanks.

Could be. I know I have not adjusted the lower flipper strengths, just increased the upper pf flipper just a bit, but all three flippers are available to change in the adjustments menu if desired.
I'm not sure exactly sure what pitch I have on the game, but I have the back legs adjusted pretty high. That said, I'll still get air balls from time to time. This game has a nice pace, but sometimes it can get pretty fast with a fair amount of ball spin, and that's usually when it happens

Excellent idea. Similar to what Rensh mentioned, I also emailed Barry on this subject, and it seems as though moving forward they are changing the construction of these shafts from the stepper motor to make it more accessible to disconnect and pull the upper shaft up through the pf. I think with a set up similar to what you are describing.

I was thinking of getting this level and protector. Do you think it would work ok?

https://www.pinballlife.com/bubble-level-assembly-for-williamsbally.html

https://www.pinballlife.com/pinguard-ball-shooter-lane-kickout-protector-kit-for-stern-machines.html

I was also wondering if the ball lock left ramp could use a longer plastic cover? I get some balls dropping off at the top. Hopefully as more tbls get in the field some mod people get some ideas like that.

776BA7C0-A97D-442F-A462-97F2EDDC58B2 (resized).jpeg

Hi Tom,

I think I understand.....

Any chance you can take a photo on your machine so we can see it installed?

Thx.

Anyone have a 3D printer so we can get one?

When a new run is made of these scoops they will be bent a little more outwards thus overcoming this ‘issue’.

I think this does help but still ha e some rejects when going up the ramp. You need a proper shot. However, as someone said flying of the ramp, never saw that. That’s also not what this 3D thingy is supposed to prevent.

Just happened to me today on the ball lock left ramp. I think we need a plastic cover to close that whole ramp. I tried putting the right flipper strength to the lowest but it’s not helping. It’s going into the back cabinet or just dropping back into the playfield for me. Sent in a suggestion to Barry also.

I had to add a plastics and cardboard to keep the ball from flying into the bottom or off the ramp but it’s still hopping all over and hitting the glass when using the right flipper. (Right green lock light also) This video is with the glass off. Tried all the right flipper coil settings and it’s not helping. What else can be adjusted? I watched Rensh’s video and his doesn’t ball hop like mine.

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AqoPEeSaU3W1gbUOHDw1BT26JJWxMQ

https://1drv.ms/v/s!AqoPEeSaU3W1gbUPVEgCpsfcuuT4rw

Wow. That looks like a ball launched into orbit. Is the rampflap perhaps not having a good contact with the playfield? This as it looks like it hops at that place.

For sure this acts totally different as mine.

Sent these links also to Barry for comment pls

Wow - something is up for sure.
I don’t have that jumping / airball.

Flipper setting?

Right coil?

In first video did the upper playfield have a piece of plastic covering the diverter park of thaw ramp?

What is the pitch on your machine?

Also is the plastic window even / flat with wood playfield?

Ok the second video clearly hit the standup not the ramp which is a known air all for most games and possible to adjust. The first video that is way wrong. Appears to take off at the ramp flap. Check that the 2 Phillips screws are not to tight pulling the ramp down. The ramp flap should be virtually flat to make a smooth transition to ramp. Good luck.

I’ve tried multiple pitch by moving the front legs up and down but no luck.

Yes that’s my jury rigging to try to help.

I’ll look at the flap next. Also sent these to Barry.
F89F9A4A-E8AC-4021-B4CA-0BFFAC03CA19 (resized).jpeg

Are these the 2 screws? There’s not a lot of play there. And yes hitting that right stand off with the right flipper does send the ball airborne a lot. I can manually roll the ball up the ramp which seems smooth. Also making the ramp shot on the left flipper is fine.

0AEE4359-7384-48D2-B0C4-D053F4ADEF35 (resized).jpeg

Did you also check this?

Yes. Sorry it appears DP uses torx head screws. They are primarily there to raise and lower the front lip of the flap. It should touch the playfield but Not be screwed down so much that it bends the flap creating a jump ramp. I can only Guess the reason the right flipper is the primary is that it was a full Swing at the ball making it travel much faster vs a back hand.

Side issue with a HUGE thank you shout out to Mr Awesome #Rensh So as to not look like a dink (which I am doing now) I reached out to Rensh for advice on a flipper issue. During game play (several games) the left flipper if hit twice would hold the flipper up? The only way to clear it was to flip the right flipper. Stupid me I figured hey this must be some Euro pause to drink setting I missed! Nope. As he advised the coil stop was simply magnetized. No drink mode option lol. Anyway, removed and a few taps with a hammer and she is demagnetized and collection White Russians again!! I bow to you Dude Rensh! Thanks