Similar question. Anyone kind enough to share or know what post threaded piece (sorry don’t know the official name…the metal threaded “bolt” in the plastic post) is the next longer one than is in the game now, at the slings? With the silicone washers to help remedy the play field, along with plastic protectors, the upper nut where the ramp is also held down is just not gonna be long enough. With only the plastic protector and no silicone washer yet, the nut can BARELY grab a thread.

Had a new strange issue pop up lately…or in fact it’s NOT popping up! I was getting the repeated ca-chunk of the Jesus VUK and the whoosh-whip sound bite that goes with it, which meant that the pressure leaf style switch to detect a ball that goes into the Jesus ramp was too close and not enough tolerance, so it was touching a few times when the ball would launch to the bowling skill shot upper field. I tweaked the leaf a bit to remedy that, but related or unrelated, now 50% of the time the ball is launched to the bowling skill shot, the ball misfires and won’t make it cleanly up to the top mini field. It has to fire 2 or 3 times and then the ball pops up. Any thoughts?

Likely you did bent the assy a little during switch adjustment, see service faq page 111

I had this issue. Completely fixed by adjusting the shooter lane switch wire down a little bit so it wasn't pushing up so much on the ball.

Damn. Think my woofer is blown. A ball was left in the shooter lane. Turned it on to eject. Loud unhealthy rumbling occurred on start up. Now when I play bass is off the charts. Very unpleasant to play. Can’t see bass setting in sound adjustments. Any ideas?

The bass is adjusted on the sound board in the head box. Get a pinnovators hook up and an external sub. Works great.

Thanks. It’s weird. I turned off a game and rebooted with the ball in the shooters lane. Same thing. Bass went nuts. Don’t know if anyone else can test this.

When turning tbl with a ball in the shooterlane it will see this as a testreport error and eject the ball. Memory says it will make some sound but nothing strange.

Further more, no equalizer on the menu, can adjust though bass on the soundboard like already suggested above

Ok. Never had this happen with other pins. So to me it just seemed unusual. Why would a pin go from being normal bass to suddenly really heavy bass. All on its own? Will change as directed. Thanks.

Hey any tips on how I should do this?

A sign it was the switch was that sometimes the ball would not sit snug against the plunger or off to one side slightly. The switch wire was pushing up on the ball too strongly. I don't think you can even adjust the plunger alignment much at all.

Raise the playfield up on its support legs. Use a switch adjust tool (or needle nose) to bend the shooter lane switch wire down very slightly and test. Adjust more and retest if needed but it only took a small adjustment and the ball sits snug on the plunger tip.
Hope that helps!

Hi @rensh, so I did the turning down of the little dial and the bass does not shake the machine as much and vibrate the whole room. But now the music is a bit flat and tinny. Does the cabinet speaker act as both woofer and sub? Would be good to seperate sub behaviour from normal bass so you can still enjoy a good dynamic range in the music without rattling the whole room. Don’t know if a future sw or firmware release could fix.

I have an external active subwoofer hooked up (like as with all my pinballs), parallel connected to the cabinet speaker.

Would this be an option for you?

Our subway finally gave out

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Cue sux million dollar man intro….

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7 little tack welds... ouch.
JB Weld is your hero.

JB Weld is your hero.

How many plays do you have on It and what was the build date of the game? I wonder if the subways have been reinforced on the newer games (paging Rens). I know they put some type of padding in the subways now not sure if that helps anything.

Subway has not changed design. They are padded nowadays but I doubt if that will protect against the damage I saw here

I thought so too, but turns out the clearance with the rug was too tight and my sistered piece was too big

The rug mech moves by here with just millimeters to spare. I’m convinced the reason it broke is because the rug mech hits it as it’s getting slammed with balls. There is just so little clearance as the rug shuttles by

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I think its the rug shuttle that breaks it. The ball doesn’t really slam into this piece much and the other tabs are not failing

Now to cut it up more and try to rebuild with something that won’t pertrude into the millimeters of room you have

Not tack welds. Its flat plate they cut reliefs in so they can build it all from one piece they bend into shape. (Tho there are additional pieces added in the drop zones).

Dang it! I wonder how much a whole new subway costs? I know it’s not ideal because the game will be out of service while you wait for it.

Me and the grinder aren’t defeated yet

New subway is eur 35

Just got my TBL and I go to turn it on and it flashes the lights really quickly and does not do anything after that. See video. Looks like no power is getting to any of the computers, but I am not 100% sure I have it all plugged in in the backbox correctly. Display also does not power up. Any help would be appreciated.

video of me turning it on ->

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CPU needs jumped most likely. Check service FAQ page 133:

https://www.dutchpinball.com/files/support/Technical_Support_TBL_FAQ_Manual.pdf#page133

That worked like a charm! Thank you! BUT, my display does not turn on. I press the power button on the lcd display and it wont turn on and the "power" LED button is not on. The HDMI and PS/2 cables are plugged in correctly. Anyone out there have any ideas?

Yeah, a quick look and if that fan isn't running, a jumper seems to rock your world.

One of the ribbon cables is unplugged. Is is supposed to be?

Think thats the one the Translite is connected to

On top of the display there should be a green or orange led lit. Is it? If not, can you reseat the powerplug connectors for the display (both ends)? Perhaps one came loose during shipping? If they are secure can you check if 12V is really present at the plug which goes into the display? Page 269 service faq

Let us know.

In final stage of development there is a kit which make it 1) more easy to connect mods , 2) clearly indicates where translite has to go, 3) expect to make backbox look more clean, 4) will have intelligence built in to short the 2 pins when PC doesnt boot and 5) audioboard will run on 24V in place of 12V making it more powerfull is the expectation. This board is designed to be used with a new type PSU!

Its in final stage and it will be taken into production soon. Attached is a picture of how it looks. I expect to pick up the parts during my next factory visit end of the week and make a faq on it how to install.

DP fully realizes that TBL isnt perfect (pls do note we have a lot of TBL in the field reporting no issues) but we make (small) steps each time to improve TBL. This is one of those steps, like the last introduced optoscoop, all be it a bigger one.

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Is this new board backwards compatible for older games as an option or only for the new PSU?

There is no color LED lit on top of the display at all. Where are the power plug connectors for the display?

They should be on the bottom of the display I believe

It does need the new PSU as well. For the rest its backwards compatible and I think you can make it compatible with the old PSU with the proper jumper cables but the effort in making jumper cables and where to store the overlength is to big of a hassle. And you will not have 24V for the audioboard

Our plan is minimize the costs of that kit as much as possible.

You see it running from the bottom of the display, its what you called the PS2 connector.

Does TBL work for the rest, eg without a display you should be able to start a game and flip.

All lights are on, I can hear the game, and can play the game (flippers and everything else is working). Just the LCD Monitor is NOT working or showing power to it via the little led light next to the power button.

Ok. Check if 12V is on the ps2 plug as described in the service faq page 260. Then we will know if the cable is the issue or display itself.

Time than also to mail outcome to [email protected] mentioning this issue and your tbl serialnumber.

My bowling alley releases the ball immediately a few times before the ball catches to hold for actual bowling. Is that the binding issue that was fixed with a nyliner bushing?

Ok, I checked the following with the following results:
- Cable checked and beeps for polarity.
- Cable from cpu reads 12v (see attached pic)
- Cable when plugged into the monitor and game turned on reads 0.00 volts.

That said, i think the LCD monitor is no good.

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Yes. Pull bowling mech and make sure plunger is not binding on bowling pf or hole. Nyliner bushing will help keep it centered. But you might just align your better

Round 2… fight!

Starting point…
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Made some space…
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This is how tight the subway is… just a few mils bigger than the ball. So not a lot of wiggle room
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I tried cheating my filler piece inward to help clear the rug… but that didn’t go well with ball travel..

Don’t do this…
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Final fitment after making some more room. Now outside edge is even or tighter than original
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Now we wait…
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Not beautiful but hopefully functional
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Well it fits

Time to see if it holds up…

Even cutting into the body you can see just how tight the fit still is…

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Nice work

Pls do note however that a replacement ramp is only eur 35 but is excl shipping.

Hi Rens, couple questions.

1. Will the new backbox distribution board be standard-included on new TBL machines purchased OR is it an additional item for purchase

2. There have been at lease 2 versions of PSU. Will this be compatible with the current model PSU being shipped in the last approx year? Or is there now a new, 3rd PSU this works with.

3. Also, what is cost of the new board and new PSU.

4. On the 24v audio board power. Does this mean there is a new revision of the audio board now or is the current model 12-24v compatible?

Thx

And that almost doubles its cost and still takes a long time . Its been almost two weeks and still waiting for my last parts. This is to get the game going to avoid more extended downtime. A $1 fix and about 20mins of work. Seems like a worthwhile attempt.

Reordering the same subway was going to be the “if this fails” option because its still the same design. We also are working on remaking it in alternative design we hope will be more durable.