Bulb came out, see below. Initially blocked ball from exiting. How to reinstall?

EE75F638-5C78-4540-9A4A-B60F6F54ACAD (resized).jpeg

This must be the led used in the lampsocket aimed at the rug but how did it end up on the mpf? Anyway, installing is just a matter of putting it back in the socket. No special tools needed

Scrape the useless glue off and use this method to make sure it doesn't come out again:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/fixing-led-bulbs-flashers-that-fall-out-of-spotlights#post-4402506

One of the best pinball tips I ever got! PinMonk #1

Excited to cool those coils down! Fan kits for TBL shipping on the near horizon?

This week they should start shipping. It was supposed to be today, but customs delayed the last component I'm waiting on. Excited to get these ZEN kits out in the wild. They're very nice.

I feel like my GnR kit of yours is already pretty damn quiet in my machine. How much quieter are we talking here?

The GnR brackets are pretty quiet, but you can still hear them in attract mode if you're close to the machine and concentrate. The ZEN kits are essentially silent once the machine is closed up. Some of the testers weren't even sure they were ON and had to check they were working.

As I learn more, I get better at cutting out the things that cause noise. Quieter fans, steel bracket with less edges to resonate, and karma-glide mounts come together on the ZEN kits to be about 75% quieter than what are now the "standard" GnR kits. Because the technical noise reduction is different than the perceived noise reduction if you have both side by side, your ears would perceive them to be about 40% quieter. Which is still a LOT.

I can't wait until these ZEN kits get out for all the machines so people can get them installed and be amazed. Ask Joel (joelbob on pinside) on his TPN/FlipnOut stream this week about them. He's tested ZENs on TNA and Godzilla and has had the standard ones, too, so he can attest to the reduction in noise. Karl DeAngelo's been testing all the iterations since last summer, too. Some of the other testers only have ever had ZENs, so they can't A/B compare standard to ZEN, but Joel and Karl could.

Wow. That is amazing. Thanks for continuing to improve an already solid product.

Anyone that is having issues with your scoop switch I highly recommend trying a MRS switch!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/mampm-creations-mrs-catalog

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Thanks man....that MRS is just something we had to try for experimenting - we have a smaller variation that would fit ....as well as we'd like to make something custom that would simply utilize the existing screw holes/mount - but we'd need some good measurements from someone - or a scoop to borrow....

Matt

Fan kits? Please tell me more I've been lurking while I wait for my TBL to arrive (<30 days...) Is coil overheating a major issue for TBL?

It's definitely an issue if you play more than 25-30 minutes at a time. I posted the temp test graph for Lebowski here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-official-club-thread/page/80#post-7147915

As you can see, temps are pretty hot and the flippers are in the fade zone after about 30 minutes, but the cooled version completely eliminated fade for the duration of the cooled test.

The upper flipper did ok without cooling and was stone cold with cooling. It's the reason I recommend a 2 flipper ZEN kit and not a 3 for Lebowski.

Take my money already! How do I order?

They're on pinmonk.com:
https://pinmonk.com/products/tibetan-breeze-deluxe-2-flipper-cooling-kit-for-big-lebowski

And here on my pinside store:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1170-pin-monk/07376-tibetan-breezezen-2-flipper-cooling-kit-for-big-lebowski

These kits are a brand new, updated design and will be shipping any day. I've just been waiting on one of the components to get here after being hung up in customs.

I’m pretty close and would love to help……pm me?

Since upgrading to v1.10 I’m getting a ‘scoop opto’ unused switch error. I can’t figure out which switch this is referring to. The main scoop is a switch and is doing fine. The kicker up to the mpf it refers to as vuk. Any pointers?

Thx

Scoop opto error here too on the latest updated file on the site

It’s for a future switch. Posts about it above, but thought it was supposed to be patched up?

It was supposed to be fixed but it wasn't. I tested it, but starting from a fresh database (similar to factory reset), which turned out to be a defining factor.
So it will be fixed in a 1.11 release soon.

For the time being you can tweak the Test Report settings in "Adjustment Menu > Test Report".

Thanks Koen. Your work is amazing and the best in the whole industry, including big name companies with whole teams trying to do what you do.

One side-note that is not really a bug, but still interesting…last night friends and I were enjoying the new one-ball wizard and bowling modes of the game for a while and an error popped up in the test report saying “left ramp lock switch”. That’s only because the lock doesn’t get used in those modes. Not sure if it’s possible or worth it to exclude the error from counting during certain modes so it doesn’t throw it when there’s really no way to avoid it happening?

Thanks Collin...with your measurements - looks like we have a more custom fit solution....let us know how the fitment is when you get the body and post pics if all is good...

Matt

Great suggestion, will do!

New service faq uploaded, rel 070 this time

https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_support

I wanted to take my lit apron off to install a cliffy protector on the shooter lane but it is very tighti did not was to slide off. I don’t want to risk damaging anything, is there a trick to getting it off without scuffing the playfield as it slides free from the brackets on the lower front of the apron on the playfield side?

Hello KoenHeltzel. I sent you a PM with some rule tweak suggestions. Let me know if you or Rensh would prefer email and I will resend.

For software issues and suggestions Koen usually prefers to use the software issue tracker at https://dutchpinball.myjetbrains.com/youtrack/dashboard

I just had a second pin break. I have limiters installed.

First it was the 6 pin, now it's the 4 pin. So it's the same exact pin on both sides. I haven't had a chance to inspect the others.

Info: Game has well over 2500 plays on it. The bowling alley is used quite a bit. I'd say at least twice per game.

Ok. That’s odd. You are, if memory serves me right, the only one sofar with broken pins with BA limiters installed. Yes, 2500 plays is more as average I guess but still odd. Our test ran for 10000+. I would check if the pins are really not able to hit the metal axis of the next row. First one I thought, OK, maybe a bad pin, can happen, but second on same row??

Yeah I had the same reaction. First is a fluke, second is not. Gotta be something I can do. For what it's worth, every time I bowl a frame all the pins go up and down (reset) at least twice. So 5000 plays in the bowling alley = 10,000 times the pins have moved.

It's "on location" but only for two days per week at 8 hours per day.

I'll do some digging and report back. Might be a while though.

Hey all - sorry..had a relatively dumb question...what kind of socket/tool do I need to grab this proper?

Thanks

example (resized).png

Guessing but probably an 11/32" socket. You may have to put a cloth around the post below (to protect the metal from the pliers) and clamp on with pliers to keep it from turning, too.

Nope .... this pin is made in Europe and so ... we use metric tools.
Fair enough that now the US pinheads have to buy european tools after all the years we had to buy imperial tools.

Buy a metric nut driver set. Then go buy a 5.5mm driver too… and a torx bit set

So probably 8mm then. I have both metric and SAE sockets because I roll large like that.

You all are awesome...I swear I had this somewhere already, but may need to pony up for the metric drivers etc. thanks for abiding!

Page 11 of the service faq gives you an idea which metric tools are needed.

I'm getting this exact same issue. Not sure what the fix is. I've messed with the coin door switch to no avail. Game was slightly acting up before that happened with lights going funky.

I dedicated a complete section to the coindoor message in latest faq page 321.

You will see the switch operates two segments. If the coils still have power your switch is fine as that’s shared between the 2 segments. Check the soldering of the headers on the distribution board. Had once an issue with cold solder acting up.

Thank you. I'll be checking this Tuesday evening and then I'll report back.

Ugh. Had a killer game going and stuck a ball into the main scoop (mystery, not the Mark it Zero one), and it just sat there. No ball search ever. Had to kill the game by holding the button. Once it started a new game it kicked it right out, which tells me it’s NOT a switch error. Played fine after that too. Code bug? Sadly way too many White Russians to remember if it was in a mode or anything.

I had that happen on the new code when I got a mystery award for a bowling ball that also completed the set of 5. What you can do is open the coin door, pull the interlock, and manually fire the scoop coil to kick the ball out...and save your good game.

thank you. I believe I had the same gameplay situation. Hopefully KoenHeltzel can squash that bug!

Problem: Game says "coin door open" and doesn't do anything else. Won't let you start a game, push buttons on coin door, closing and opening coin door does nothing etc.

Solution: F04 Fuse was blown. The red light next to it didn't light up. The game comes with spares (T1.6A) so we popped one in and it worked again.

---------------------------------------------

I wish we had done that at the beginning. Literally the first rule of pinball repair is to check the easiest solutions first and work your way down. But instead we took off the two small boards next to the coin door and inspected the solder; all looked good. We tested the boards with a multimeter; all good there. After talking and analyzing we followed the pathways of the wires up to the main board on the playfield and it was next to several fuses, one of which had a light out. It was labeled "Cabinet". That was the culprit.

Just an FYI if anyone else is having this issue.

The real question is why did the fuse blow?

I have seen fuses blow befor and after replacing them the new fuse stays alive. I guess In the end a fuse is a component just like any other which can break.

Nevertheless, it’s a good and solid question and if it blows again in a short period something to remember

That’s interesting. When making my coindoor open faq I tried the same and with me, at that moment, the coindoor open Message didn’t appear when removing that fuse.

Must retry this, perhaps different in current software version or it can be because my switchboard is an older type. And at least change my faq to incorporate this as a check. Always good to check on the fuses after all

For what it's worth, with the fuse blown/pulled the small multimorphic board's lights did not light up.

So if the coin door is open and the small board inside the cab on the left has lights that also don't light up, that's a sign that the fuse could be bad.

Mine blew the same F04 fuse about a month ago with the same problems. I popped the hood and found the little lite out and replaced the fuse. Been working fine since. I'm E.A. #66.

Sometimes, not that often, my carpet in my gameroom seems to make static electricity and I will touch a pin or my Stereo and get a little pop....
Maybe that's what happened to my TBL?
There was a lot of activity in the gameroom the nite my TBL went down so not sure if this was the cause......probably not.

You can (and should) fix the static issue around the pins.

Get a spray bottle and make a solution of diluted downy fabric softener 1 part downy to 5 parts water.

Test the solution with a light spray in an inconspicuous area and let dry to make sure it doesn't stain or discolor the carpet.

If that's OK, lightly spray all the carpet where you walk. Should take care of the static for 1-3 months at a time. Repeat as needed.