(Topic ID: 217437)

A lotta ins.. a lotta outs - TBL maintenance thread

By sd_tom

5 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 2,263 posts
  • 229 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 days ago by WillM
  • Topic is favorited by 189 Pinsiders
  • Topic is sticky in its sub-forum

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

20240217_083247 (resized).jpg
20231231_181244 (resized).jpg
20240102_152844 (resized).jpg
20231231_181256 (resized).jpg
20231231_181308 (resized).jpg
IMG_3800 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2626 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0551 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2201 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3728 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3727 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3729 (resized).jpeg
IMG_3736 (resized).jpeg
IMG_0326 (resized).jpeg
IMG_9996 (resized).jpeg
Screen Shot 2023-11-07 at 9.42.02 PM (resized).png

Topic index (key posts)

17 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 2,263 posts in this topic. You are on page 31 of 46.
#1501 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

Could it be one of the screws that hold the back board on all the way in the back?

No, that are woodscrews.

#1502 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

No, that are woodscrews.

Of course! Sorry....now I remember.....

#1503 1 year ago

This must have been asked and answered before, but I could not find it with a search, so here it goes again:

My right upper flipper (on the mini-playfield) sometimes becomes unresponsive and does not return to its place. Sometimes this I guess is due to the code, but sometimes it happens when the bat should be working. Any solution to this? Thanks for any info!

#1504 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Simply look at the pin when it fails to hold the ball. In many cases the pin is binding and simply not raising enough to hold the ball. It fails to return completely to the raised position. The correct fix for the binding pin is adding a bushing like I outlined here https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/27#post-7036761
The binding can be intermittent and work fine in test, but fail in game play. So I encourage you to check out the pin's position in the game during a failure vs just testing with the coil test or by hand.
If it holds the ball fine during a test, or after manual reset.. but fails during play to hold the ball.. it is almost certainly just binding against the bowling alley and not returning to it's full upright position. The bushing fixes that by ensuring the pin stays centered in the hole.

I want to give a shout-out to Flynnibus for this fix. My temp “solution” (gluing material on top of the release post to raise it higher) came undone, so I went with the bushing solution according to Flynn’s detailed and helpful instructions. It now works perfectly. Thank you. Rens: you may want to add this to the maintenance manual, or better yet—have the factory add the bushing to the release post to avoid this problem.

#1505 1 year ago

The metal table protector at the scoop entrance is starting to raise up off the table. Any idea how I fix this? Do I bang something somewhere? I think to get to it, I have to take the subway off

10CA9E73-F518-400A-9990-B8E102B2C36E (resized).jpeg10CA9E73-F518-400A-9990-B8E102B2C36E (resized).jpeg

#1506 1 year ago

Hopefully everyone is enjoying the new code.

Has there been a consensus on the easiest fix for the Donny orbit? Autolaunch sends the ball rocketing down and through the left orbit and SDTM. So fast that no nudge or slap save works. Maybe some adjustment to the metal ball guide between the loft orbit and the lets-go-bowling saucer?

Thank you in advance.

#1507 1 year ago
Quoted from Dan1733:

Hopefully everyone is enjoying the new code.
Has there been a consensus on the easiest fix for the Donny orbit? Autolaunch sends the ball rocketing down and through the left orbit and SDTM. So fast that no nudge or slap save works. Maybe some adjustment to the metal ball guide between the loft orbit and the lets-go-bowling saucer?
Thank you in advance.

https://www.etsy.com/listing/1088825021/

This works great for the Donny orbit. Message him and he will probably make one for you!

#1508 1 year ago

Found a bug in 1.0 with the menu system. Changing the Flipper Coil strength will lead to the 'setting saved' message getting stuck on the screen. You can't edit the coil settings again until you reboot the game. Filed a bug.

Also found if the ball fails to release from the bowling launcher correctly, the game will get stuck there forever too. Physically releasing the ball, it was still confused, but eventually got it to clear. Filed a bug.

Did the flipper strengths change at all with the new code? I swear my right flipper has the ball jumping off the left ramp, jumping all over the place, etc. I set it down two notches and that seemed too much, so I set it down one notch and will see how it plays.

#1509 1 year ago

Or use some edge trim like below. I placed these on the metal edges around each switch as well to prevent air balls. Works great.

https://a.co/d/40nfxUf

#1510 1 year ago

Another potential bug I saw, but didn't get to confirm enough to feel confident to write a bug report was having a zero ball save save more than one ball.

I was in character or 3ball MB... and I drained one ball out the outlane while another ball quickly drained down the center. The right outlane was lit for the zero ball save.. and instead of ball save kicking out 1 ball, it kicked out two.

This was not at the early part of the mode where there was normal ball save activity... the outlane save should have only saved one ball.

But honestly I'm not even sure what this ball save is yet... Just says 'zero' up on screen like maybe I'm finishing the zero rollovers? Not sure.. and why there is even a ball save.

#1511 1 year ago

Finally getting around to replacing my targets. New targets have a diode and are slightly different. Which tabs an I soldering to on the new ones?

3E050894-1DF4-4875-A8F7-91DD7044A5E6 (resized).jpeg3E050894-1DF4-4875-A8F7-91DD7044A5E6 (resized).jpegCB2B5970-A20E-43F3-93AD-A102276498FF (resized).jpegCB2B5970-A20E-43F3-93AD-A102276498FF (resized).jpeg
#1512 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

Finally getting around to replacing my targets. New targets have a diode and are slightly different. Which tabs an I soldering to on the new ones?
[quoted image][quoted image]

Remove the diode !!!!!!

#1513 1 year ago

Did the car registering switch code change in 1.0? It seems car hits only register when both parking switches change from closed to open. It seems like the door is pushing against the switches the whole time. Maybe thats normal, I forget. But if you hit the car hard enough to cause the car to bounce forward, it opens up the switches briefly and registers as a hit. Otherwise hits to the car that don't cause the switches to open don't register.

I don't remember having such issues hitting the car prior to 1.0. I thought the right parking target switch should be closed when the car door is fully open but the left target shouldn't be. Then hits to the left target trigger the "hit"

In this video hitting the car does nothing, but pulling it away registers the hit. Are your games like this?

#1514 1 year ago
Quoted from Dan1733:

Hopefully everyone is enjoying the new code.
Has there been a consensus on the easiest fix for the Donny orbit? Autolaunch sends the ball rocketing down and through the left orbit and SDTM. So fast that no nudge or slap save works. Maybe some adjustment to the metal ball guide between the loft orbit and the lets-go-bowling saucer?
Thank you in advance.

I've found I have to hold the left flipper down to stop the ball from going straight down the middle. If timed correctly I can hit the Jesus and Maude shot from the autolaunch ball off the left orbit. But yes, it will go almost always straight down the middle without some finesse. I'm set at 6.5degrees

#1515 1 year ago

My game was missing the upper flipper bushing, so I printed my own. It press fits into the upper pf from above. I designed the bushing to interface the flipper shaft with three narrow rings to limit friction (as opposed to the entire busing inner wall being in contact). After a quick test play, it is 100% improved. It has zero side to side play and rotates freely. If you have access to a 3d printer you can download it here;
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5568452
bushing (resized).pngbushing (resized).png

#1516 1 year ago

Yet another MPF PCB issue -

Following up on the parking switch issue in car modes -- I ended up taking off the MPF tonight to look at what was going on. Turns out I had a much bigger issue. Looks like I was having the PCB "bending" issue discussed during the Right Ramp Made switch and PCB board issue: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/11#post-6256608

I had previous issues with the Right Ramp Made switch up here intermittently working but it never was bad enough to trigger me looking for a solution. I'd see reports it wasn't working but then it would successfully test ok and go away. My MPF PCB is actually a replacement (2nd Gen) because I had a dead LED since NIB on the first generation board. Well I think all this is now related. That board was definitely sitting on the metal Jesus plate like the issue above showed and tonight I saw it had cut into those Right Ramp Made switch wires. Additionally, the pressure on the PCB was affecting the way the Parking targets seemed to be working.

20221015_202649 (resized).jpg20221015_202649 (resized).jpg

I don't appear to be having the grounding issue on this board. And I don't want to replace yet another PCB as I think the pressure from the board sitting on the screw is what's causing these boards to fail. Sorry if this has been discovered previously, but I think the only solution is to raise up the MPF. The problem is you need to raise it up quite a bit. So... I did that.

Added a stainless steel nut to the MPF standoffAdded a stainless steel nut to the MPF standoff

I added a stainless steel nut to the 3 MPF standoffs. I ended up removing the original washer here as it was too tall. Appreciate the nut coded AHH and that's what I was saying to myself when I tried this dumb idea. I had these on hand but I believe they came from Home Depot. The nut is 5.5mm tall and fits the standoff well.

20221015_205126 (resized).jpg20221015_205126 (resized).jpg
20221015_215703 (resized).jpg20221015_215703 (resized).jpg
20221015_215918 (resized).jpg20221015_215918 (resized).jpg

Well this effects a bunch of things:

1. The habit trail will be lower but it can be easily bent upward.
2. I can no longer secure the backboard to the MPF with those two screws.
3. The Walter ramp has a slightly steeper angle but it doesn't appear to be any more difficult IMO.
4. There is a harder drop off from the MPF onto the habit trail but it doesn't appear to cause issues.
5. The space between the bowling alley roof and the wood brace below the glass is tight but it doesn't touch.

My garage door stepper motor was modified previously with a coupling to make it easier to remove. If your stepper is the newer version that's attached to the MPF, no issue. If yours is 1st gen like mine, you'll likely need to do the coupling mod.

So much room for activities!So much room for activities!

Well the MPF PCB is off that metal plate now and those switch wires aren't being crushed. I'll run it like this for awhile and report back if I notice any issues. But for now my switches all seem to be working correctly up there. Raising up the MPF while drastic, seemed to solve my issues and wasn't too difficult. I wouldn't go any taller than the 5.5mm I did. But you could get away with slightly less if you find a shorter spacer.

#1517 1 year ago
Quoted from RobF:

My game was missing the upper flipper bushing, so I printed my own. It press fits into the upper pf from above. I designed the bushing to interface the flipper shaft with three narrow rings to limit friction (as opposed to the entire busing inner wall being in contact). After a quick test play, it is 100% improved. It has zero side to side play and rotates freely. If you have access to a 3d printer you can download it here;
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5568452
[quoted image]

Maybe print a few a sell us some I'm interested

#1518 1 year ago
Quoted from Time:

Did the car registering switch code change in 1.0? It seems car hits only register when both parking switches change from closed to open. It seems like the door is pushing against the switches the whole time. Maybe thats normal, I forget. But if you hit the car hard enough to cause the car to bounce forward, it opens up the switches briefly and registers as a hit. Otherwise hits to the car that don't cause the switches to open don't register.
I don't remember having such issues hitting the car prior to 1.0. I thought the right parking target switch should be closed when the car door is fully open but the left target shouldn't be. Then hits to the left target trigger the "hit"
In this video hitting the car does nothing, but pulling it away registers the hit. Are your games like this?

In regard to the cardoor left and right parking switch have the same function. If one of the closes stepper will stop working. Dependable on sensitivity of the switches it can be left or right. With me it’s left I believe.

During destroy carmode for instance The motor will push the cardoor till one of the two switches is closed and will then keep it closed.

If a ball hits the car the cardoor will bounce and free the switch for a moment. This opening of the switch is seen as a hit.

So, what you are describing sounds normal and no change has been made, as am far as I am aware, to this ‘detection’ circuit.

#1519 1 year ago
Quoted from RobF:

My game was missing the upper flipper bushing, so I printed my own. It press fits into the upper pf from above. I designed the bushing to interface the flipper shaft with three narrow rings to limit friction (as opposed to the entire busing inner wall being in contact). After a quick test play, it is 100% improved. It has zero side to side play and rotates freely. If you have access to a 3d printer you can download it here;
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5568452
[quoted image]

Nice. It’s different as DP solution. DP flipperbushing runs all the way down to below main playfield.

#1520 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Nice. It’s different as DP solution. DP flipperbushing runs all the way down to below main playfield.

Yeah, I had considered extending mine all the way down, but I couldn't think of any advantages. If the bushing at the bottom and top are snug tolerances the long shaft should be perfectly supported. Care to share the design decision behind making the new DP one full length?

#1521 1 year ago
Quoted from Time:

Maybe print a few a sell us some I'm interested

Maybe, I'll think about it.

#1522 1 year ago

Anyone else seeing “extra ball is lit” text on the screen for Mark it Zero after you’ve already gotten past the point of actually lighting and achieving extra ball?

I saw this bug in 0.92 but could never grab my phone camera fast enough. Saw it again twice last night on 1.0.

It’s a minor bug but still confusing nonetheless.

I forget how many MiZ’s it takes to light extra ball (2?), but it’s when you light and hit the saucer after you’ve already done that when I notice the text on the bottom of the screen saying extra ball is lit (and of course it’s not)

#1523 1 year ago
Quoted from Nepi23:

This must have been asked and answered before, but I could not find it with a search, so here it goes again:
My right upper flipper (on the mini-playfield) sometimes becomes unresponsive and does not return to its place. Sometimes this I guess is due to the code, but sometimes it happens when the bat should be working. Any solution to this? Thanks for any info!

Here's a video on how the bat sometimes sticks up and does not return (third strike with the bat shows the sticking).

In the video I pressed the flipper button again and it finally released the bat so that it came down:

#1524 1 year ago

I was playing our Lebowski this weekend and I noticed that the diverter on the left ramp has a good amount of side to side slop in it. The diverter has hung up a few times on the ramp trying to drop because of this side side play. Is this normal and if not how can I correct this issue? I read through the entire service manual and see nothing about the diverter.

#1525 1 year ago

The very first TBLs had a different diverter flap than they do now. What's your serial #?

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#1526 1 year ago
Quoted from sd_tom:

The very first TBLs had a different diverter flap than they do now. What's your serial #?

I am at work so do not have my serial # but I just received our machine about two weeks ago so it's a newer one.

#1527 1 year ago

One of my nihilist stand-up targets is constantly getting stuck closed no matter how many times I adjust it. I think maybe the metal is fatigued from bending too much. I’d like to replace it. Could someone confirm that this is the correct replacement part?: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-oblong-stand-up-targets.html

#1528 1 year ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

One of my nihilist stand-up targets is constantly getting stuck closed no matter how many times I adjust it. I think maybe the metal is fatigued from bending too much. I’d like to replace it. Could someone confirm that this is the correct replacement part?: https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-oblong-stand-up-targets.html

No, I think you want the rear mount ones and remove the diodes.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-oblong-stand-up-target-rear-mounting.html

#1529 1 year ago

Ahh, got it. Thank you!

#1530 1 year ago

I assume these the same standups that replace the lock targets next to the Dude ramp as well? I've been meaning to replace those forever as, like Spelunk71, one gets stuck closed all the time at this point.

#1531 1 year ago
Quoted from VALIS666:

I assume these the same standups that replace the lock targets next to the Dude ramp as well? I've been meaning to replace those forever as, like Spelunk71, one gets stuck closed all the time at this point.

I swear those dude ramp standup targets were originally teal / Tiffany Blue colored in the prototype DP brought to Expo 2016. But I've yet to see a photo confirming that. Nor does that color seem to exist anywhere. An unsolved mystery.

#1532 1 year ago

Recent issue, when I hold in the left flipper to get the rug skill shot, in most cases, it instead goes to the bowling skill shot area, although I can clearly see that the rug is blinking for that skill shot. I am not sure what is going on under the MPF that may be causing the ball to go to the MPF. Also, in many cases, the regular skill shot where you are not holding in any flipper buttons, will still usually end up with the ball going to the upper MPF.

Any idea what could be causing this?

Thanks

#1533 1 year ago
Quoted from eharan:

Recent issue, when I hold in the left flipper to get the rug skill shot, in most cases, it instead goes to the bowling skill shot area, although I can clearly see that the rug is blinking for that skill shot. I am not sure what is going on under the MPF that may be causing the ball to go to the MPF. Also, in many cases, the regular skill shot where you are not holding in any flipper buttons, will still usually end up with the ball going to the upper MPF.
Any idea what could be causing this?
Thanks

Sounds like the Shooter Lane Diverter is not working consistently - the diverter in resting position let's a plunged ball go into the VUK to the MPF.
It can be tested under: "Test Menu > Solenoid Test > Shooter Lane Diverter (it's the last item)"

#1534 1 year ago

Uploaded new version service FAQ, rel 0.66 this time

https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_support

#1535 1 year ago
Quoted from KoenHeltzel:

Sounds like the Shooter Lane Diverter is not working consistently

I just tested the diverter which works. However when I looked under the playfield at the Solenoid, I see that the spring on the solenoid broke. I need to get a replacement spring. Is there a part number for that spring and is it available at either Pinball Life or Marco specialties?

Thanks!
Ed

#1536 1 year ago
Quoted from eharan:

I just tested the diverter which works. However when I looked under the playfield at the Solenoid, I see that the spring on the solenoid broke. I need to get a replacement spring. Is there a part number for that spring and is it available at either Pinball Life or Marco specialties?
Thanks!
Ed

If that's a short spring it's probably this one: https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/10-389

If it broke at the hook at the end you can probably just use the broken one by bending it make another hook.

#1537 1 year ago
Quoted from CALencio:

The metal table protector at the scoop entrance is starting to raise up off the table. Any idea how I fix this? Do I bang something somewhere? I think to get to it, I have to take the subway off
[quoted image]

Any advice? I'm trying to get the scoop metal playfield protector flush to the field, it is continuing to come up- was thinking about super glueing it down but that seems like a bad idea?

#1538 1 year ago
Quoted from KSP1138:

If that's a short spring it's probably this one:

That’s the one. I got the existing one working by bending it but want a new one as a backup. Found it at Pinball Life for .50.

Thanks!
Ed

#1539 1 year ago

Here’s a new one. Had my new game for about 3 weeks now.

All of a sudden, the subwoofer had stopped working in the middle of a game. So I lifted the playfield and inspected the back box and could find nothing noticeably unplugged.

I turned the game off and on and when I started a new game, it worked again. And then, midway through that game, the same thing happened where the subwoofer stopped.

Did the process once more, and the exact same thing.

Anyone know how to fix?

Thanks

#1540 1 year ago
Quoted from Eiznah:

Here’s a new one. Had my new game for about 3 weeks now.
All of a sudden, the subwoofer had stopped working in the middle of a game. So I lifted the playfield and inspected the back box and could find nothing noticeably unplugged.
I turned the game off and on and when I started a new game, it worked again. And then, midway through that game, the same thing happened where the subwoofer stopped.
Did the process once more, and the exact same thing.
Anyone know how to fix?
Thanks

Page 176 service faq

#1541 1 year ago
Quoted from Eiznah:

Here’s a new one. Had my new game for about 3 weeks now.
All of a sudden, the subwoofer had stopped working in the middle of a game. So I lifted the playfield and inspected the back box and could find nothing noticeably unplugged.
I turned the game off and on and when I started a new game, it worked again. And then, midway through that game, the same thing happened where the subwoofer stopped.
Did the process once more, and the exact same thing.
Anyone know how to fix?
Thanks

Rensh gave the page.

The sub it turning itself off before it dies from being used too heavily. There's a tiny tiny potentiometer in the backbox that allows you to dial down the sub. I have mine turned all the way down, but if I turn specific volumes up too loud, the sub will still turn itself off!

So your solution might include dialing back the potentiometer and adjusting the volume/music levels like I had to.

#1542 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

Rensh gave the page.
The sub it turning itself off before it dies from being used too heavily. There's a tiny tiny potentiometer in the backbox that allows you to dial down the sub. I have mine turned all the way down, but if I turn specific volumes up too loud, the sub will still turn itself off!
So your solution might include dialing back the potentiometer and adjusting the volume/music levels like I had to.

Interesting. What are the exact levels you have your audios at?

#1543 1 year ago

Is there a manual for TBL that shows all the parts and mech information?

#1544 1 year ago
Quoted from eharan:

Is there a manual for TBL that shows all the parts and mech information?

unfortunately not

#1545 1 year ago
Quoted from Eiznah:

Interesting. What are the exact levels you have your audios at?

I can't say exactly (it's at the co-op, I'm at home) but something like 70-80% across the board.

Rensh I keep losing subwoofer sound every time the "Extra Ball" video clip is played. The clip is clearly louder than any other clip in the game, and when the ball hits the floor it's a thud of bass. I had to turn the woofer down so much it's basically off now. Hadn't had a problem before that.

#1546 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

unfortunately

Are there plans to develop a manual? This is critical to keep these games going over the years. I would highly encourage DP to put together a full schematics manual. It would be much appreciated!

Thanks,
Ed

#1547 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

It will also become part of the service faq but see here the guide on installing the new extended flipperbushing. Its already in the latest builts.

How do I buy/order the extended MPF Flipperbushing kit? my serial # is 620, and this needs installed on my TBL. Thanks, mk

#1548 1 year ago
Quoted from mkdud:

How do I buy/order the extended MPF Flipperbushing kit? my serial # is 620, and this needs installed on my TBL. Thanks, mk

Just sent an email to [email protected] mentioning shipping adress and tbl serialno.

#1549 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Just sent an email to [email protected] mentioning shipping adress and tbl serialno.

I just sent e-mail to support.

Thanks so much for how well you are supporting TBL and for the new 1.0 code!! -mk

#1550 1 year ago

Guys, I’m dumb and I broke my game. If there’s a thread that goes over to fix what I did wrong please point me in that direction.
I was on .56 code going to update to 1.00.
Had to update to .59 first cause delta something. Cool, did that.
Then I went and installed the 1.0 code and selected it. Everything seemed to work.
Game restarted.
Won’t boot up. Goes to computer background and the “loading” screen for about half a second back and forth over and over to infinity.
I can’t clear out the 1.0 code cause I can’t get into the menu. Any ideas?

Added 16 months ago:

Edit* Rens got me all set

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
€ 27.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
TheDudeMods
Toys/Add-ons
15,500
Machine - For Sale
Seaside, OR
$ 39.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
Toys/Add-ons
$ 44.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
The MOD Couple
Toys/Add-ons
$ 3.00
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
Other
There are 2,263 posts in this topic. You are on page 31 of 46.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/31 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.