I think that last time I was at the factory design has already changed a little and now a bushing is used to reduce the tolerance. Same is gonna be applicable for the left ramp diverter (not implemented yet).

Fingerz crozzed it’s implemented in next couple of weeks.

ha.. I was theorizing that exact same way. I was trying to figure out if there was any nyliner bushings available in the correct size .. and thought maybe a coil sleeve trimmed might be an option.. but realized it would have to move up and down and would have to figure out a size that wouldn't conflict. Your post gives me the confidence it can work!

Have you had any problems with the sleeve breaking? I'm concerned the plunger retaining rings slamming into the sleeve's lip will eventually break it.

Now to deal with getting that coil disassembled.. my nut drivers can't fit in there. Hopefully I can just remove both the bracket on the plunger and coil and get it to slide out. This isn't easy work on location.

Got my TBL a couple weeks ago and it's been great out of the box, except for the hitting the Donnie loop to the Maude exit resulting in s SDTM. That and after a few times removing the glass it started rattling from the music bass. So I figured I'd share what I did to remedy the two as I searched for others with these problems but didn't find much.

I know glass rattle is pretty common in many pins, but for me it wasn't an issue out of the box and developed over a period of short time, so I just wanted to share that it happened. I just lined the plastic glass slides with electrical tape and that took care of it.

For the Donnie loop/Maude exit SDTM I slid a post sleeve over the lamp post located at end of the metal guide on the Maude loop. I had tried adjusting the metal guide rail to no end; it has very limited movement due to the mounts and I couldn't get it to make much of a difference. So with the post sleeve on the end it pushes the metal rail out far enough to send the ball to the left flipper. Huge improvement on playability for my pin anyways.

Oh just remembered one other thing I had to do was bend one of the Dude ramp standups back to stop the ball from jumping up. I noticed that it wasn't angled properly from the start, played it a bit and confirmed it needed adjusting. Seems to be staying where I bent it to and the balls aren't going airborne from it anymore, but time will tell if it will hold up.

Love the game and very happy this forum exists to help keep it running right!

No, hundreds of games played since that modification and no problems at all.

Just installed update .58 It supposed to add 1 second for garage to close so ball doesn't get stuck. update was installed and there is no difference. Any one here got it to work properly? thx!

I never timed it, guess you could video it in rel 057 and again in 058 and check) but if you feel the 1 second isnt added you can report this at the software issue tracker:

https://dutchpinball.myjetbrains.com/youtrack/dashboard?id=581bc065-9ac9-4235-858c-3e4bc182722e

Yes, there is no difference. In fact I think it feels like it closes faster. Thanks Rens!

I'm having issues with my right flipper button... It's starting to not hold the flipper and do all kinds of erratic things... When I pull the switch test it's really hit or miss on whether I'm hitting the lower/upper/both/holding. Any adjustments on this I can make or do I need to contact Dutch about this?

Thanks,
Jeff

Has anyone adjusted the car door - new version of the game I have. See picture- car door is sagging down.
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According to the changelog that only applies to Rug Mode 5, not the other car modes. I'll change that for the next update.

Edit: the bugfix update v0.59 including this fix is now live.
Download / changelog here:
https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_software

In the meantime v1.0 is still in development, but we are wrapping things up! Thanks for your patience!

Wow . I see the blue tape from factory still in its place. Did it came this way?

I am afraid you will have to take the MPF out to check what’s happening here

What is the tbl serialno so I can inform factory to have them better check.

Just Tested it. It's way better now. Ball bounced back in but garage took the extra second to close. Thank you so much for the quick software update!

Awesome, thank you!

I think I heard it was dead, but wanted to ask…any hope of Wi-Fi updates/live scoring/etc being activated in 1.00? Or later down the line?

Let me know what you find out. I asked about adjusting mine a long while ago but don’t think I ever got an answer. Mine has gotten worse over time it seems.

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insight75 - here is the link to the velcro fix

Total guess, but it's almost as if there is a loose screw on the hinge.

I wanted to try and tighten they screw that sits in the hinge area to see if it adjusts anything but need to figure out how to access it. Hope I don’t have to remove the entire upper playfield to get to it. And does that even address the problem? No idea.

The roof of the bowling alley comes off rather easily. Two hex screws. You might be able to access it there.

You can't . I've been one of the fortunate ones to have this game damn completely apart many times. I think if I take the metal building off of the upper playfield (garage) I might be able to reach it. Otherwise I'll end up taking off the backboard again. I'm going to look through the tech manual to see if there was anything there I missed that speaks to adjusting it. I took the roof off last night and didn't want to go any further. I had just took out the ship on my JJP POTC and replaced some optos (pain in the ass) and didn't want to fall down another rabbit hole. Today is a new day though!

Appreciate it!

My machine is now down.....having the stuck switch MPF issue as we have seen from others above. Reinstalling the ribbon cable did not help. Sent support an email on this.

While I'm figuring this out....my ball return for the bowling alley comes in too hard and passes right through the stop.....even with the coil at the lowest power. Anyone have this issue? Is there an easy fix for this?

I'm awaiting a new board for my upper playfield to hopefully resolve this but remember to check the fuses (I think it's F10 or F11) to make sure it's not blown. That fuse controls the upper playfield 12v power

Just curious, which switch does it say?

I also had this issue. Bending the stop slightly so it sits a little higher helped, but the ball still passes through occasionally. If you find another fix, please share it.

MPF switch stuck closed. I THINK it said switch 48....the MPF scoop. At this point though none of the switches for the upper playfield are working in test.

Fuses are good. Even though the light was on I still pulled them and checked continuity.

I know you said you tested the ribbon cable but that is exactly what it sounds line the problem is.

It’s really puzzling. I have now I think 3 reported cases in short period. At least with two replacing ribbon didn’t help and they have a pcb on route which should be there soon.

Than we will know it’s pcb which is the cause (or not). Common between the switches and inserts-GI is only ground. Ground is fed with like 3-4 wires and similar amount of traces on pcb. All parallel. So many wires or traces broken at same time ??? Time will tell.

What I am suspecting that now suppliers are using substandard parts just to keep production rolling. Four broken power supplies in a few weeks as an example!! What the heck. And that we are all suffering because of it. Just a wild personal theory.

Thank you for the responses. Since the reported cases are the same, it makes no sense to proceed with trying anything until the other cases get resolved since they likely will have the same fix. Having said this, where can I get the ribbon cable to try this? Is this common I can get off Amazon?

Update. I removed ALL of the connectors for the board on the MPF....all lights now turn on. I connected switches one by one and they worked....until I got to the scoop...plugging this in made everything stop working. I think this was the same exact issue that ThePinballCo-op detailed. Seems to be an issue with this board if its not the opto which has been tried.

Is this an actual switch or an optical sensor?

Is this the scoop you are talking about ? See yellow arrow.

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Yup. Optical. That is the issue. Unplug that sensor and all is right until I plug it back in.

Ok, when I recently took my mini playfield off I noticed that 1 of the optical sensors which has soldered wire on it is up again the tall metal post. That tall post is used to secure the mini playfield.

Here is what I would do to check. Remove the back black panel to look. I think like 4 or 5 screws. Take it off to look at those 2 optical sensors. Maybe 1 is shorting on the post?

Worth a peak. Easy to check. If it is insert some thick Mylar to insulate.

2E8CE469-4C26-4834-B84D-97FE698E68B3 (resized).jpeg

Rensh

Rens - can you comment on the 1 or 2 screws?
Thx

I actually took the board out, just plugged that in to the ribbon and then attached the scoop optics and the symptoms returned. Nothing touching the metal. I had extensively looked for just that to be sure. DP is going to send me another board.

Yes this is similar. The lights worked fine with no switches attached though they were slightly dim. When I plugged in any switch at all on any connector on the board, the lights would flicker or turn off. The switch would not register in switch test.

There are several boards with the same issue. We are not alone! I hope my board arrives any day now and if so, I'll report back asap.

Interesting that the symptoms are different as I would expect the boards to have the same flaw. I have a board on the way which was sent yesterday. I paid for express shipping because I'm as impatient as a kid at Christmas. Should have it early next week.

Bad news, Dudes!

Good news, Dudes! The two nuts attaching the curved bit to the post were loose. Should be good now

I checked with factory and as follows.

In the beginning the idea was to use two screws but they are close together to two screws don’t fit easily. But it works fine with one screw to so final design was one screw only. The fit of the rod inside the door is quite tight and is D shaped and is not supposed to skew. Screw is just to hold it in height and for this one is more than enough.

Now I wonder if perhaps the hole in the door is to big allowing play, eg the door manufacturer did not do his work as designed.

To investigate this properly MPf needs to come out. Sounds much worse than it is.

Let me know what you found out.

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BE617FE4-3364-48B7-9C99-93C860454334 (resized).jpeg

The upper play field board arrived today and I installed it with great success!

New problem: the car stepper motor is not functioning at all. When I go into stepper motor test, it’s at 0% and it does not allow me to move the garage door open or closed. If I hit the + it just stays at 0% and nothing happens.

I don’t see any blown fuses. Is it possible in my haste to install the upper Playfield that I did not plug-in the stepper motor plug on the board? I find that hard to believe but not impossible.

Edit: never mind I figured it out. The cable that plugs into the stepper motor is not anywhere on the mini play field but instead in a group of wires that are green and blue. They come out from underneath the Playfields and connect into the stepper motor. I figure I'll leave this here in case anyone else makes the same mistake.

Everything works again! IT'S AWESOME!

Great news! Now put some miles on that incredible game of yours!

This is great to hear. My new board arrives on Monday. Yes I paid for quick shipping because I'm so impatient.

Great news to read that it’s working again but still the question is there how come. So pls sent me the requested pictures of the old board and how the playfield looks below the mpf. Eg, is something touching the mpf and killing the mpf pcb over time?

Thanks Rensh. Yes all screws are in place and tight, and the screw acting as coilstop is there. It just seems like the diverter needs stopped a few millimeters shorter when going down. I'm able to adjust it temporarily but after a few movements it keeps getting stuck under the ramp. It goes down and twists a little bit, getting it stuck under the ramp. Any other ideas I can try?

I would imagine replacing the screw which acts as a coilstop with a slightly longer one could do the trick.

Did you try to loosen the two nuts securing the upper part sticking in the ramp to the plunger to see if they have some play allowing the upper part to get a little higher?

Can also be that the ramp is installed a little to high. It has a holder stand at the back where it goes to the left. Check if that isn’t under stress .

See a few posts above. This happened to me the other night. It’s the two small screws and lock nuts that hold the curved diverter to the post, and you can find them just below the clear ramp piece.

Loosen them up a bit more, adjust the diverter so it’s in the correct position (it has wiggle movement when loose) then crank down on those lock nuts. Fixed it right up for me.

I just finished putting my MPF back together with the new board. All is right in the world. Hey thanks for the tip on ensuring the stepper motor is plugged in. Too bad I didn't listen and did the same thing! Good news is you can get to it just by removing that back board. Very happy I'm back in the game now!

Ok I Am extremely frustrated with this game! Blew up on day two Dutch sent me a new power source up and running. But now the trough only distributes the ball on ball one. Rug mode just made a horrendous sound. Had to reboot. Let’s go bowling vuk. Barely spits the ball out. Donny ramp just kicks back every time. Fixed the upper flipper problem. I bought a new game to play. But just problems!! Help!!!