(Topic ID: 217437)

A lotta ins.. a lotta outs - TBL maintenance thread

By sd_tom

6 years ago


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#1301 1 year ago

I think that last time I was at the factory design has already changed a little and now a bushing is used to reduce the tolerance. Same is gonna be applicable for the left ramp diverter (not implemented yet).

#1302 1 year ago

Fingerz crozzed it’s implemented in next couple of weeks.

#1303 1 year ago

ha.. I was theorizing that exact same way. I was trying to figure out if there was any nyliner bushings available in the correct size .. and thought maybe a coil sleeve trimmed might be an option.. but realized it would have to move up and down and would have to figure out a size that wouldn't conflict. Your post gives me the confidence it can work!

Have you had any problems with the sleeve breaking? I'm concerned the plunger retaining rings slamming into the sleeve's lip will eventually break it.

Now to deal with getting that coil disassembled.. my nut drivers can't fit in there. Hopefully I can just remove both the bracket on the plunger and coil and get it to slide out. This isn't easy work on location.

#1304 1 year ago

Got my TBL a couple weeks ago and it's been great out of the box, except for the hitting the Donnie loop to the Maude exit resulting in s SDTM. That and after a few times removing the glass it started rattling from the music bass. So I figured I'd share what I did to remedy the two as I searched for others with these problems but didn't find much.

I know glass rattle is pretty common in many pins, but for me it wasn't an issue out of the box and developed over a period of short time, so I just wanted to share that it happened. I just lined the plastic glass slides with electrical tape and that took care of it.

For the Donnie loop/Maude exit SDTM I slid a post sleeve over the lamp post located at end of the metal guide on the Maude loop. I had tried adjusting the metal guide rail to no end; it has very limited movement due to the mounts and I couldn't get it to make much of a difference. So with the post sleeve on the end it pushes the metal rail out far enough to send the ball to the left flipper. Huge improvement on playability for my pin anyways.

Oh just remembered one other thing I had to do was bend one of the Dude ramp standups back to stop the ball from jumping up. I noticed that it wasn't angled properly from the start, played it a bit and confirmed it needed adjusting. Seems to be staying where I bent it to and the balls aren't going airborne from it anymore, but time will tell if it will hold up.

Love the game and very happy this forum exists to help keep it running right!

#1305 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

ha.. I was theorizing that exact same way.
Have you had any problems with the sleeve breaking?

No, hundreds of games played since that modification and no problems at all.

#1306 1 year ago

Just installed update .58 It supposed to add 1 second for garage to close so ball doesn't get stuck. update was installed and there is no difference. Any one here got it to work properly? thx!

#1307 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

Just installed update .58 It supposed to add 1 second for garage to close so ball doesn't get stuck. update was installed and there is no difference. Any one here got it to work properly? thx!

I never timed it, guess you could video it in rel 057 and again in 058 and check) but if you feel the 1 second isnt added you can report this at the software issue tracker:

https://dutchpinball.myjetbrains.com/youtrack/dashboard?id=581bc065-9ac9-4235-858c-3e4bc182722e

#1308 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

I never timed it, guess you could video it in rel 057 and again in 058 and check) but if you feel the 1 second isnt added you can report this at the software issue tracker:
https://dutchpinball.myjetbrains.com/youtrack/dashboard?id=581bc065-9ac9-4235-858c-3e4bc182722e

Yes, there is no difference. In fact I think it feels like it closes faster. Thanks Rens!

#1309 1 year ago

I'm having issues with my right flipper button... It's starting to not hold the flipper and do all kinds of erratic things... When I pull the switch test it's really hit or miss on whether I'm hitting the lower/upper/both/holding. Any adjustments on this I can make or do I need to contact Dutch about this?

Thanks,
Jeff

#1310 1 year ago

Has anyone adjusted the car door - new version of the game I have. See picture- car door is sagging down.
4513D44B-D5A0-41C1-BAB9-531C81FB45DB (resized).jpeg4513D44B-D5A0-41C1-BAB9-531C81FB45DB (resized).jpeg

11
#1311 1 year ago
Quoted from tk375:

Just installed update .58 It supposed to add 1 second for garage to close so ball doesn't get stuck. update was installed and there is no difference. Any one here got it to work properly? thx!

According to the changelog that only applies to Rug Mode 5, not the other car modes. I'll change that for the next update.

Edit: the bugfix update v0.59 including this fix is now live.
Download / changelog here:
https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_software

In the meantime v1.0 is still in development, but we are wrapping things up! Thanks for your patience!

#1312 1 year ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Has anyone adjusted the car door - new version of the game I have. See picture- car door is sagging down.
[quoted image]

Wow . I see the blue tape from factory still in its place. Did it came this way?

I am afraid you will have to take the MPF out to check what’s happening here

What is the tbl serialno so I can inform factory to have them better check.

#1313 1 year ago
Quoted from KoenHeltzel:

According to the changelog that only applies to Rug Mode 5, not the other car modes. I'll change that for the next update.
Edit: the bugfix update v0.59 including this fix is now live.
Download / changelog here:
https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_software
In the meantime v1.0 is still in development, but we are wrapping things up! Thanks for your patience!

Just Tested it. It's way better now. Ball bounced back in but garage took the extra second to close. Thank you so much for the quick software update!

#1314 1 year ago
Quoted from KoenHeltzel:

According to the changelog that only applies to Rug Mode 5, not the other car modes. I'll change that for the next update.
Edit: the bugfix update v0.59 including this fix is now live.
Download / changelog here:
https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_software
In the meantime v1.0 is still in development, but we are wrapping things up! Thanks for your patience!

Awesome, thank you!

I think I heard it was dead, but wanted to ask…any hope of Wi-Fi updates/live scoring/etc being activated in 1.00? Or later down the line?

#1315 1 year ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Has anyone adjusted the car door - new version of the game I have. See picture- car door is sagging down.
[quoted image]

Let me know what you find out. I asked about adjusting mine a long while ago but don’t think I ever got an answer. Mine has gotten worse over time it seems.

B19C376C-917E-4797-90BF-99A8AEE4ECEA (resized).jpegB19C376C-917E-4797-90BF-99A8AEE4ECEA (resized).jpeg
#1316 1 year ago
Quoted from Rscontrino:

This was a photo I shot on my iPhone a while ago so its not to great but I think you can prob see the velcro tape. I can try to shot a better one later when I get home from work. its prob about a inch long and 1/3 of a inch high.[quoted image]

insight75 - here is the link to the velcro fix

#1317 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

Let me know what you find out. I asked about adjusting mine a long while ago but don’t think I ever got an answer. Mine has gotten worse over time it seems.
[quoted image]

Total guess, but it's almost as if there is a loose screw on the hinge.

#1318 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

Total guess, but it's almost as if there is a loose screw on the hinge.

I wanted to try and tighten they screw that sits in the hinge area to see if it adjusts anything but need to figure out how to access it. Hope I don’t have to remove the entire upper playfield to get to it. And does that even address the problem? No idea.

#1319 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

I wanted to try and tighten they screw that sits in the hinge area to see if it adjusts anything but need to figure out how to access it. Hope I don’t have to remove the entire upper playfield to get to it. And does that even address the problem? No idea.

The roof of the bowling alley comes off rather easily. Two hex screws. You might be able to access it there.

#1320 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

The roof of the bowling alley comes off rather easily. Two hex screws. You might be able to access it there.

You can't . I've been one of the fortunate ones to have this game damn completely apart many times. I think if I take the metal building off of the upper playfield (garage) I might be able to reach it. Otherwise I'll end up taking off the backboard again. I'm going to look through the tech manual to see if there was anything there I missed that speaks to adjusting it. I took the roof off last night and didn't want to go any further. I had just took out the ship on my JJP POTC and replaced some optos (pain in the ass) and didn't want to fall down another rabbit hole. Today is a new day though!

Appreciate it!

#1321 1 year ago

My machine is now down.....having the stuck switch MPF issue as we have seen from others above. Reinstalling the ribbon cable did not help. Sent support an email on this.

While I'm figuring this out....my ball return for the bowling alley comes in too hard and passes right through the stop.....even with the coil at the lowest power. Anyone have this issue? Is there an easy fix for this?

#1322 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

My machine is now down.....having the stuck switch MPF issue as we have seen from others above. Reinstalling the ribbon cable did not help. Sent support an email on this.
While I'm figuring this out....my ball return for the bowling alley comes in too hard and passes right through the stop.....even with the coil at the lowest power. Anyone have this issue? Is there an easy fix for this?

I'm awaiting a new board for my upper playfield to hopefully resolve this but remember to check the fuses (I think it's F10 or F11) to make sure it's not blown. That fuse controls the upper playfield 12v power

#1323 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

My machine is now down.....having the stuck switch MPF issue as we have seen from others above. Reinstalling the ribbon cable did not help. Sent support an email on this.
While I'm figuring this out....my ball return for the bowling alley comes in too hard and passes right through the stop.....even with the coil at the lowest power. Anyone have this issue? Is there an easy fix for this?

Just curious, which switch does it say?

#1324 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Wow . I see the blue tape from factory still in its place. Did it came this way?
I am afraid you will have to take the MPF out to check what’s happening here
What is the tbl serialno so I can inform factory to have them better check.

Hi Rens.
Yes brand new game. Just registered it.
There is a few issues I will send in to support.

In meantime, on new games I go screw by screw to retighten after shipping and noticed like 5 screws missing from under TBL playfield. At this point, it does not look like it will be an issue with those missing.

For the door itself, this can be accessed without removing the MPF.

With that said, in the picture below my guess is the root cause it tightening just the 1 screw to tight which misaligns the door (skews it).

With that said there are holes for 2 screws - question- should there be 2 screws?? This probably would not allow the door to be skewed.

Thx Jim
#709
36ACE72A-1AEC-4DED-A33F-34F5D5F08C5A (resized).jpeg36ACE72A-1AEC-4DED-A33F-34F5D5F08C5A (resized).jpeg80472FD7-C880-432A-9940-CD3616263E84 (resized).jpeg80472FD7-C880-432A-9940-CD3616263E84 (resized).jpeg

#1325 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

While I'm figuring this out....my ball return for the bowling alley comes in too hard and passes right through the stop.....even with the coil at the lowest power. Anyone have this issue? Is there an easy fix for this?

I also had this issue. Bending the stop slightly so it sits a little higher helped, but the ball still passes through occasionally. If you find another fix, please share it.

#1326 1 year ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Just curious, which switch does it say?

MPF switch stuck closed. I THINK it said switch 48....the MPF scoop. At this point though none of the switches for the upper playfield are working in test.

Quoted from per3per3:

I'm awaiting a new board for my upper playfield to hopefully resolve this but remember to check the fuses (I think it's F10 or F11) to make sure it's not blown. That fuse controls the upper playfield 12v power

Fuses are good. Even though the light was on I still pulled them and checked continuity.

#1327 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

MPF switch stuck closed. I THINK it said switch 48....the MPF scoop. At this point though none of the switches for the upper playfield are working in test.

Fuses are good. Even though the light was on I still pulled them and checked continuity.

I know you said you tested the ribbon cable but that is exactly what it sounds line the problem is.

#1328 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

I know you said you tested the ribbon cable but that is exactly what it sounds line the problem is.

It’s really puzzling. I have now I think 3 reported cases in short period. At least with two replacing ribbon didn’t help and they have a pcb on route which should be there soon.

Than we will know it’s pcb which is the cause (or not). Common between the switches and inserts-GI is only ground. Ground is fed with like 3-4 wires and similar amount of traces on pcb. All parallel. So many wires or traces broken at same time ??? Time will tell.

What I am suspecting that now suppliers are using substandard parts just to keep production rolling. Four broken power supplies in a few weeks as an example!! What the heck. And that we are all suffering because of it. Just a wild personal theory.

#1329 1 year ago
Quoted from paulbaptiste:

I know you said you tested the ribbon cable but that is exactly what it sounds line the problem is.

Quoted from Rensh:

It’s really puzzling. I have now I think 3 reported cases in short period. At least with two replacing ribbon didn’t help and they have a pcb on route which should be there soon.
Than we will know it’s pcb which is the cause (or not). Common between the switches and inserts-GI is only ground. Ground is fed with like 3-4 wires and similar amount of traces on pcb. All parallel. So many wires or traces broken at same time ??? Time will tell.
What I am suspecting that now suppliers are using substandard parts just to keep production rolling. Four broken power supplies in a few weeks as an example!! What the heck. And that we are all suffering because of it. Just a wild personal theory.

Thank you for the responses. Since the reported cases are the same, it makes no sense to proceed with trying anything until the other cases get resolved since they likely will have the same fix. Having said this, where can I get the ribbon cable to try this? Is this common I can get off Amazon?

#1330 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

Thank you for the responses. Since the reported cases are the same, it makes no sense to proceed with trying anything until the other cases get resolved since they likely will have the same fix. Having said this, where can I get the ribbon cable to try this? Is this common I can get off Amazon?

Update. I removed ALL of the connectors for the board on the MPF....all lights now turn on. I connected switches one by one and they worked....until I got to the scoop...plugging this in made everything stop working. I think this was the same exact issue that ThePinballCo-op detailed. Seems to be an issue with this board if its not the opto which has been tried.

#1331 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

Update. I removed ALL of the connectors for the board on the MPF....all lights now turn on. I connected switches one by one and they worked....until I got to the scoop...plugging this in made everything stop working. I think this was the same exact issue that ThePinballCo-op detailed. Seems to be an issue with this board if its not the opto which has been tried.

Is this an actual switch or an optical sensor?

Is this the scoop you are talking about ? See yellow arrow.

3656A6EA-E4AC-42CA-B11F-30FDFDB4B0A1 (resized).jpeg3656A6EA-E4AC-42CA-B11F-30FDFDB4B0A1 (resized).jpeg
#1332 1 year ago

Yup. Optical. That is the issue. Unplug that sensor and all is right until I plug it back in.

Quoted from cpr9999:

Is this an actual switch or an optical sensor?
Is this the scoop you are talking about ? See yellow arrow.
[quoted image]

#1333 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

Yup. Optical. That is the issue. Unplug that sensor and all is right until I plug it back in.

Ok, when I recently took my mini playfield off I noticed that 1 of the optical sensors which has soldered wire on it is up again the tall metal post. That tall post is used to secure the mini playfield.

Here is what I would do to check. Remove the back black panel to look. I think like 4 or 5 screws. Take it off to look at those 2 optical sensors. Maybe 1 is shorting on the post?

Worth a peak. Easy to check. If it is insert some thick Mylar to insulate.

2E8CE469-4C26-4834-B84D-97FE698E68B3 (resized).jpeg2E8CE469-4C26-4834-B84D-97FE698E68B3 (resized).jpeg
#1334 1 year ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Hi Rens.
Yes brand new game. Just registered it.
There is a few issues I will send in to support.
In meantime, on new games I go screw by screw to retighten after shipping and noticed like 5 screws missing from under TBL playfield. At this point, it does not look like it will be an issue with those missing.
For the door itself, this can be accessed without removing the MPF.
With that said, in the picture below my guess is the root cause it tightening just the 1 screw to tight which misaligns the door (skews it).
With that said there are holes for 2 screws - question- should there be 2 screws?? This probably would not allow the door to be skewed.
Thx Jim
#709
[quoted image][quoted image]

Rensh

Rens - can you comment on the 1 or 2 screws?
Thx

#1335 1 year ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Ok, when I recently took my mini playfield off I noticed that 1 of the optical sensors which has soldered wire on it is up again the tall metal post. That tall post is used to secure the mini playfield.
Here is what I would do to check. Remove the back black panel to look. I think like 4 or 5 screws. Take it off to look at those 2 optical sensors. Maybe 1 is shorting on the post?
Worth a peak. Easy to check. If it is insert some thick Mylar to insulate.[quoted image]

I actually took the board out, just plugged that in to the ribbon and then attached the scoop optics and the symptoms returned. Nothing touching the metal. I had extensively looked for just that to be sure. DP is going to send me another board.

#1336 1 year ago

Follow-up on my bowling alley release pin binding.

I fixed it using a 1/2" nyliner bushing. https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/20-8790-5

As usual with this game, getting to the parts needed is far harder than the work itself.

You need to pull the bowling alley from the game to do this realistically. So undo all the nuts from below the cabinet and undo the 4 molex connectors between the cabinet and the bowling alleyon the left side of the bowling alley and remove entire mechanism from cabinet.

You could possibly fit the nyliner into the bracket with the plunger already in place.. but I wasn't able to successfully and I didn't want to destroy it trying. So taking the coil+bracket off was the path forward.. as you can't remove the plunger with the bracket+coil in place. Maybe taking the coil ring and plunger ring off might get it out.. but I went for taking the whole bracket off. Bracket is held on by 4 7mm nuts.. which you might get a nut driver on, but having midget box wrenches will help.

Next problem is.. you undo the 4 nuts holding the bracket, but you can't get enough clearance to get the bracket out past the ball return. So undo the 4 screws holding the ball return to the front of the bowling alley and you'll get enough play in the ball return to get the extra few mills needed to get the bracket+coil+plunger out of the larger assembly.

guide screws (resized).jpgguide screws (resized).jpg

With the bracket out, remove the E clip holding the plunger in and remove the plunger. Insert the nyliner bushing in the ring the plunger passes through with the lip towards the coil so it won't get pushed out. Reinstall the spring and plunger. Make sure the wide portion of the spring is against the coil.. otherwise it will get tangled with the e-clip. Reinstall the e-clip and make sure the tall side of the pin faces the front of the bowling alley. Reattach bracket to alley with the 4 nuts, adjust the position before tightening and make sure the plunger moves freely ALL the way down and back.

bushing (resized).jpgbushing (resized).jpg
Bushing installed

When the bracket is aligned and secured, re-attach the ball guide to the front of the alley by re-attaching the 4 screws you removed.
Reinstall the alley into the cabinet, reattaching the 4 molex connectors on the left. Test the bowling pin action with the test menus, and if all is good, reattach the 10 nuts and washers holding the alley to the cabinet.

#1337 1 year ago
Quoted from insight75:

Update. I removed ALL of the connectors for the board on the MPF....all lights now turn on. I connected switches one by one and they worked....until I got to the scoop...plugging this in made everything stop working. I think this was the same exact issue that ThePinballCo-op detailed. Seems to be an issue with this board if its not the opto which has been tried.

Yes this is similar. The lights worked fine with no switches attached though they were slightly dim. When I plugged in any switch at all on any connector on the board, the lights would flicker or turn off. The switch would not register in switch test.

There are several boards with the same issue. We are not alone! I hope my board arrives any day now and if so, I'll report back asap.

#1338 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

Yes this is similar. The lights worked fine with no switches attached though they were slightly dim. When I plugged in any switch at all on any connector on the board, the lights would flicker or turn off. The switch would not register in switch test.
There are several boards with the same issue. We are not alone! I hope my board arrives any day now and if so, I'll report back asap.

Interesting that the symptoms are different as I would expect the boards to have the same flaw. I have a board on the way which was sent yesterday. I paid for express shipping because I'm as impatient as a kid at Christmas. Should have it early next week.

#1339 1 year ago

Bad news, Dudes!

#1340 1 year ago

Good news, Dudes! The two nuts attaching the curved bit to the post were loose. Should be good now

#1341 1 year ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

Hi Rens.
Yes brand new game. Just registered it.
There is a few issues I will send in to support.
In meantime, on new games I go screw by screw to retighten after shipping and noticed like 5 screws missing from under TBL playfield. At this point, it does not look like it will be an issue with those missing.
For the door itself, this can be accessed without removing the MPF.
With that said, in the picture below my guess is the root cause it tightening just the 1 screw to tight which misaligns the door (skews it).
With that said there are holes for 2 screws - question- should there be 2 screws?? This probably would not allow the door to be skewed.
Thx Jim
#709
[quoted image][quoted image]

I checked with factory and as follows.

In the beginning the idea was to use two screws but they are close together to two screws don’t fit easily. But it works fine with one screw to so final design was one screw only. The fit of the rod inside the door is quite tight and is D shaped and is not supposed to skew. Screw is just to hold it in height and for this one is more than enough.

Now I wonder if perhaps the hole in the door is to big allowing play, eg the door manufacturer did not do his work as designed.

To investigate this properly MPf needs to come out. Sounds much worse than it is.

Let me know what you found out.

8AFE9945-8A59-4A5F-9360-5402C5F44187 (resized).jpeg8AFE9945-8A59-4A5F-9360-5402C5F44187 (resized).jpegBE617FE4-3364-48B7-9C99-93C860454334 (resized).jpegBE617FE4-3364-48B7-9C99-93C860454334 (resized).jpeg
#1342 1 year ago

The upper play field board arrived today and I installed it with great success!

New problem: the car stepper motor is not functioning at all. When I go into stepper motor test, it’s at 0% and it does not allow me to move the garage door open or closed. If I hit the + it just stays at 0% and nothing happens.

I don’t see any blown fuses. Is it possible in my haste to install the upper Playfield that I did not plug-in the stepper motor plug on the board? I find that hard to believe but not impossible.

Edit: never mind I figured it out. The cable that plugs into the stepper motor is not anywhere on the mini play field but instead in a group of wires that are green and blue. They come out from underneath the Playfields and connect into the stepper motor. I figure I'll leave this here in case anyone else makes the same mistake.

Everything works again! IT'S AWESOME!

#1343 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

The upper play field board arrived today and I installed it with great success!
New problem: the car stepper motor is not functioning at all. When I go into stepper motor test, it’s at 0% and it does not allow me to move the garage door open or closed. If I hit the + it just stays at 0% and nothing happens.
I don’t see any blown fuses. Is it possible in my haste to install the upper Playfield that I did not plug-in the stepper motor plug on the board? I find that hard to believe but not impossible.
Edit: never mind I figured it out. The cable that plugs into the stepper motor is not anywhere on the mini play field but instead in a group of wires that are green and blue. They come out from underneath the Playfields and connect into the stepper motor.
Everything works again!

Great news! Now put some miles on that incredible game of yours!

#1344 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

The upper play field board arrived today and I installed it with great success!
New problem: the car stepper motor is not functioning at all. When I go into stepper motor test, it’s at 0% and it does not allow me to move the garage door open or closed. If I hit the + it just stays at 0% and nothing happens.
I don’t see any blown fuses. Is it possible in my haste to install the upper Playfield that I did not plug-in the stepper motor plug on the board? I find that hard to believe but not impossible.
Edit: never mind I figured it out. The cable that plugs into the stepper motor is not anywhere on the mini play field but instead in a group of wires that are green and blue. They come out from underneath the Playfields and connect into the stepper motor. I figure I'll leave this here in case anyone else makes the same mistake.
Everything works again! IT'S AWESOME!

This is great to hear. My new board arrives on Monday. Yes I paid for quick shipping because I'm so impatient.

#1345 1 year ago

Great news to read that it’s working again but still the question is there how come. So pls sent me the requested pictures of the old board and how the playfield looks below the mpf. Eg, is something touching the mpf and killing the mpf pcb over time?

#1346 1 year ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Check first below playfield if all screws are tight. Also check if the screw acting as coilstop is in place.

Thanks Rensh. Yes all screws are in place and tight, and the screw acting as coilstop is there. It just seems like the diverter needs stopped a few millimeters shorter when going down. I'm able to adjust it temporarily but after a few movements it keeps getting stuck under the ramp. It goes down and twists a little bit, getting it stuck under the ramp. Any other ideas I can try?

#1347 1 year ago

I would imagine replacing the screw which acts as a coilstop with a slightly longer one could do the trick.

Did you try to loosen the two nuts securing the upper part sticking in the ramp to the plunger to see if they have some play allowing the upper part to get a little higher?

Can also be that the ramp is installed a little to high. It has a holder stand at the back where it goes to the left. Check if that isn’t under stress .

#1348 1 year ago
Quoted from ZedMcGlunk:

Thanks Rensh. Yes all screws are in place and tight, and the screw acting as coilstop is there. It just seems like the diverter needs stopped a few millimeters shorter when going down. I'm able to adjust it temporarily but after a few movements it keeps getting stuck under the ramp. It goes down and twists a little bit, getting it stuck under the ramp. Any other ideas I can try?

See a few posts above. This happened to me the other night. It’s the two small screws and lock nuts that hold the curved diverter to the post, and you can find them just below the clear ramp piece.

Loosen them up a bit more, adjust the diverter so it’s in the correct position (it has wiggle movement when loose) then crank down on those lock nuts. Fixed it right up for me.

#1349 1 year ago
Quoted from ThePinballCo-op:

The upper play field board arrived today and I installed it with great success!
New problem: the car stepper motor is not functioning at all. When I go into stepper motor test, it’s at 0% and it does not allow me to move the garage door open or closed. If I hit the + it just stays at 0% and nothing happens.
I don’t see any blown fuses. Is it possible in my haste to install the upper Playfield that I did not plug-in the stepper motor plug on the board? I find that hard to believe but not impossible.
Edit: never mind I figured it out. The cable that plugs into the stepper motor is not anywhere on the mini play field but instead in a group of wires that are green and blue. They come out from underneath the Playfields and connect into the stepper motor. I figure I'll leave this here in case anyone else makes the same mistake.
Everything works again! IT'S AWESOME!

I just finished putting my MPF back together with the new board. All is right in the world. Hey thanks for the tip on ensuring the stepper motor is plugged in. Too bad I didn't listen and did the same thing! Good news is you can get to it just by removing that back board. Very happy I'm back in the game now!

#1350 1 year ago

Ok I Am extremely frustrated with this game! Blew up on day two Dutch sent me a new power source up and running. But now the trough only distributes the ball on ball one. Rug mode just made a horrendous sound. Had to reboot. Let’s go bowling vuk. Barely spits the ball out. Donny ramp just kicks back every time. Fixed the upper flipper problem. I bought a new game to play. But just problems!! Help!!!

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