(Topic ID: 217437)

A lotta ins.. a lotta outs - TBL maintenance thread

By sd_tom

5 years ago


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There are 2,298 posts in this topic. You are on page 22 of 46.
#1051 2 years ago

Over the past few weeks, I’ve noticed screws/washers of various types in the bottom of the cabinet—maybe six or so in total. I can’t see anyplace on top of or under the playfield where these are missing. Any ideas where they may be coming from?

B5928EAE-0B03-4304-B66D-F2D82E262D35 (resized).jpegB5928EAE-0B03-4304-B66D-F2D82E262D35 (resized).jpeg
#1052 2 years ago

Has anyone experienced the game freezing up during gameplay? My game then goes into ball search until I restart. Already contacted DP support just curious if anyone else has had this happen. Thanks

#1053 2 years ago
Quoted from Chopper36:

Has anyone experienced the game freezing up during gameplay? My game then goes into ball search until I restart. Already contacted DP support just curious if anyone else has had this happen. Thanks

It has been seen befor and a whole section in my service faq is dedicated to it.

Several causes possible depending on serialnumber but typ it’s a power supply issue to the Proc eg vibrations cause it to loose temp 5V and freeze.

See the mail I sent to you today.

#1054 2 years ago
Quoted from Chopper36:

Has anyone experienced the game freezing up during gameplay? My game then goes into ball search until I restart. Already contacted DP support just curious if anyone else has had this happen. Thanks

My game was having a ton of random freeze ups. Tracked it down to this cable being loose. Wedged something temporary to keep the connection tight just to test it and it's now playing 100%.

Resized_Resized_20220219_115744 (resized).jpegResized_Resized_20220219_115744 (resized).jpeg
#1055 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

My game was having a ton of random freeze ups. Tracked it down to this cable being loose. Wedged something temporary to keep the connection tight just to test it and it's now playing 100%.[quoted image]

Thanks I will give it a try.

#1056 2 years ago
Quoted from gliebig:

My game was having a ton of random freeze ups. Tracked it down to this cable being loose. Wedged something temporary to keep the connection tight just to test it and it's now playing 100%.[quoted image]

That top pin for the USB housing looks cold/cracked AF. I would reflow that asap.

#1057 2 years ago
Quoted from okgrak:

That top pin for the USB housing looks cold/cracked AF. I would reflow that asap.

I have to agree; it sure does. Wouldn't be surprised at all if that is indeed the problem.

#1058 2 years ago
Quoted from okgrak:

That top pin for the USB housing looks cold/cracked AF. I would reflow that asap.

Good eye. I didn't notice that.

1 week later
#1059 2 years ago

I was getting a lot of air balls near the Dude ramp switches so I decided to investigate as I had just finished cleaning and light wax the pf. I found a few posts back that the bowling alley plastic might not be level and it wasn’t. I have tried adjusting this several times and there are still low and high spots at the edges. If there were just a couple more adjustment screws it might be possible. Has anyone replaced the plastic with a better result?
Also removed the right switch and found a bad mounting hole drilled to close to the light opening. Rens is helping me with this.

10954291-6224-4DCB-AB62-88EA1CF0C0EC (resized).jpeg10954291-6224-4DCB-AB62-88EA1CF0C0EC (resized).jpeg
#1060 2 years ago

Uhhh ... alarm ... have a look on the insert from the other side !
Will check this situation also on my TBL.

#1061 2 years ago
Quoted from Chopper36:

I was getting a lot of air balls near the Dude ramp switches so I decided to investigate as I had just finished cleaning and light wax the pf. I found a few posts back that the bowling alley plastic might not be level and it wasn’t. I have tried adjusting this several times and there are still low and high spots at the edges. If there were just a couple more adjustment screws it might be possible. Has anyone replaced the plastic with a better result?
Also removed the right switch and found a bad mounting hole drilled to close to the light opening. Rens is helping me with this.
[quoted image]

How is Rena helping, just curious. Replacement playfield? Or can you drill new holes - enough room?

#1062 2 years ago
Quoted from cpr9999:

How is Rena helping, just curious. Replacement playfield? Or can you drill new holes - enough room?

This has happened before so they made a bracket extends left and right so he’s checking on if they made extras. Really don’t want to replace the pf.

#1063 2 years ago

Correct. Awaiting reply from factory in regard to availability.

It’s however still today Carnaval today and escpecially in the south of NL this is celebrated so Just a skeleton crew present. Sorry for the (small) delay.

And even a bigger sorry for the fact that’s not White Russians they are drinking but beer …

Attached a picture how it looks

18EC4A28-DA4B-499C-8352-4E0EF77A2910 (resized).jpeg18EC4A28-DA4B-499C-8352-4E0EF77A2910 (resized).jpeg
#1064 2 years ago

Hi!
I have small issue,
Looked over info and such but couldnt find it.
Sometimes in a single or multiple player game the ball doesnt eject. It has to be manually pushed with the coil plunger. Game doessnt search for balls either and kicks it up. Any idea?

#1065 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Correct. Awaiting reply from factory in regard to availability.
It’s however still today Carnaval today and escpecially in the south of NL this is celebrated so Just a skeleton crew present. Sorry for the (small) delay.
And even a bigger sorry for the fact that’s not White Russians they are drinking but beer …
Attached a picture how it looks
[quoted image]

Worst beer ever, I'm betting based on that photo. Take a holiday yourself!! cheers-

#1066 2 years ago
Quoted from XatchieS:

Hi!
I have small issue,
Looked over info and such but couldnt find it.
Sometimes in a single or multiple player game the ball doesnt eject. It has to be manually pushed with the coil plunger. Game doessnt search for balls either and kicks it up. Any idea?

Next time it happens go into switch test and check it all balls are seen in the trough. Also, if you activate the upkicker via the coil test in the menu, does it work there? Does sound like a switch is not working correctly.

If you have a look in the service faq you can see in the switch test section which switches are supposed to be active with no game started.

#1067 2 years ago

Can someone post a picture of where the translight plugs in? I unplugged it not thinking it would be this hard.

#1070 2 years ago
Quoted from Flash71:

Quick question on my flipper placement. The right one seems a bit offset up. Is this by design ? Fairly certain this is how it was when I got it. There’s no holes for alignment like Stern or JJP. Rensh any input ?

I had the same issue, I am the happy owner of #620. Loosen pawls with 3/8 socket, adjust, then tighten.

I aligned so that line is straight from the plastics right down each flipper. Machine plays much better.

#1071 2 years ago

Just uploaded new version of Service FAQ

https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_support

Happy reading

Rens
DP Support

#1072 2 years ago

I had a bad target switch that I replaced that has mostly gotten rid of my lockup issues, but I still get them sometimes during games right after a cold startup that don't seem to be related to hitting any particular switch. After about 10 minutes and a couple restarts they do not happen again.

I'm just outside of the serial numbers that have issues with PROC power connector issue, but I'm wondering if I should just try the powerpin or 2 wire fix?

#1073 2 years ago
Quoted from KSP1138:

I had a bad target switch that I replaced that has mostly gotten rid of my lockup issues, but I still get them sometimes during games right after a cold startup that don't seem to be related to hitting any particular switch. After about 10 minutes and a couple restarts they do not happen again.
I'm just outside of the serial numbers that have issues with PROC power connector issue, but I'm wondering if I should just try the powerpin or 2 wire fix?

Two wire fix shouldn’t be needed but does t hurt in the end. But, would reflow the power pins first if your sn is close. If you do this, reflow also the soldering of the USB connector on the Proc. Had a case where that had a bad solder.

Assume you already did the reseating of USB

#1074 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

Two wire fix shouldn’t be needed but does t hurt in the end. But, would reflow the power pins first if your sn is close. If you do this, reflow also the soldering of the USB connector on the Proc. Had a case where that had a bad solder.
Assume you already did the reseating of USB

Thanks, I did reseat the USB connectors at the MB and PROC. I think I'm going to try a different cable first and if that doesn't work I'll reflow both the USB and power connectors. I'm sn 486 so pretty close.

#1075 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

And I did cut some mylar and put it on the rug.

Please help. How are you all installing the mylar to the rug decal?? Do you have to remove the rug, or can you just attach the mylar and use the rug stepper test to roll the rug to get it attached all the way around?

What is the proper procedure to remove the rug? Can you get the Starlock washer(s) off without removing the mini pf?

I am the owner of a newer machine (#620) and am going to do my best to preserve it. TIA, mk

#1076 2 years ago

20220313_140344 (resized).jpg20220313_140344 (resized).jpggarage door sw (resized).JPGgarage door sw (resized).JPG

I had to replace my garage door switch today, and used a technique that some may find helpful. I have Serial # 620. I was skeptical about the switch being bad as my machine is very new and has very few games on it.

First, I knew the switch was wonky when I was getting chatters form the garage door in the closed position, and when I put the switch to continuity check from my meter, it was showing an intermittent closure when the switch was pushed to a solid closed position.

I removed the VUK exit, as well as the garage door wall to make access to the switch a bit easier. I also took this opportunity to add mylar to the VUK exit drop, and the MPF ramp exit area.

20220313_151512 (resized).jpg20220313_151512 (resized).jpg

I used the closed side of a small 13/64 dogbone wrench, and took a small piece of duct tape on the bottom. This wrench grabbed the locking nut on the underside of the switch, and the tape prevented the locking nut from falling down (and rolling into the depths of the machine) when I loosened the torx screw on the top side of the switch.

I used the same technique to install the replacement switch, putting the locking nut in the closed end of the 13/64 dogbone and using the small bit of duct tape to hold the locking nut in place as I screwed in the torx screw from the top side of the switch.

Make sure you don't tighten the screws all the way at first, you will need a tiny bit of play to get the switch position adjusted right to get the best closure when the door is closed. Tighten fully when you have the switch adjusted.

#1077 2 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

[quoted image][quoted image]
I had to replace my garage door switch today, and used a technique that some may find helpful. I have Serial # 620. I was skeptical about the switch being bad as my machine is very new and has very few games on it.
First, I knew the switch was wonky when I was getting chatters form the garage door in the closed position, and when I put the switch to continuity check from my meter, it was showing an intermittent closure when the switch was pushed to a solid closed position.
I removed the VUK exit, as well as the garage door wall to make access to the switch a bit easier. I also took this opportunity to add mylar to the VUK exit drop, and the MPF ramp exit area.
[quoted image]
I used the closed side of a small 13/64 dogbone wrench, and took a small piece of duct tape on the bottom. This wrench grabbed the locking nut on the underside of the switch, and the tape prevented the locking nut from falling down (and rolling into the depths of the machine) when I loosened the torx screw on the top side of the switch.
I used the same technique to install the replacement switch, putting the locking nut in the closed end of the 13/64 dogbone and using the small bit of duct tape to hold the locking nut in place as I screwed in the torx screw from the top side of the switch.
Make sure you don't tighten the screws all the way at first, you will need a tiny bit of play to get the switch position adjusted right to get the best closure when the door is closed. Tighten fully when you have the switch adjusted.

Interesting, thanks. I’m forgetting the exact issue I had with my new machine, but I believe it involved that same switch. I was getting the door jutter and then popping the fuse. I think my issue was that the door never properly depressed the switch closed so it kept trying to slam the door shut over and over. For mine though, I didn’t need to replace the switch, just bend the trigger arm part of it out so that the door properly activated it when shut.

#1078 2 years ago
Quoted from KSP1138:

Thanks, I did reseat the USB connectors at the MB and PROC. I think I'm going to try a different cable first and if that doesn't work I'll reflow both the USB and power connectors. I'm sn 486 so pretty close.

A different USB cable seems to have fixed things so far. No restarts after several games over multiple days. It could be that the connections at the motherboard and PROC are a little tighter now.

In the new 1.0 code version are there any stability improvements for issues like this where the game could recover from an intermittent USB disconnect or PROC power loss while logging the problem as a detected issue ("USB connection loss" or "PROC power loss")?

#1079 2 years ago
Quoted from ezatnova:

Interesting, thanks. I’m forgetting the exact issue I had with my new machine, but I believe it involved that same switch. I was getting the door jutter and then popping the fuse. I think my issue was that the door never properly depressed the switch closed so it kept trying to slam the door shut over and over. For mine though, I didn’t need to replace the switch, just bend the trigger arm part of it out so that the door properly activated it when shut.

I tried to adjust the switch first, but when it was reading intermittently in the car stepper motor test, I got the meter out. I knew the switch was bad when it was reading intermittently open when pushed to a firm closed position on the meter. Because the machine is new, you wouldn't think the switch could be bad, but it was a bad switch. I was ready to start checking the idc connectors, stepper motor connections, etc..

#1080 2 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

I tried to adjust the switch first, but when it was reading intermittently in the car stepper motor test, I got the meter out. I knew the switch was bad when it was reading intermittently open when pushed to a firm closed position on the meter. Because the machine is new, you wouldn't think the switch could be bad, but it was a bad switch. I was ready to start checking the idc connectors, stepper motor connections, etc..

If it ain’t broken it ain’t pinball. They don’t say this for no reason.

Was just bad luck I guess, apologies for this.

#1081 2 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

I tried to adjust the switch first, but when it was reading intermittently in the car stepper motor test, I got the meter out. I knew the switch was bad when it was reading intermittently open when pushed to a firm closed position on the meter. Because the machine is new, you wouldn't think the switch could be bad, but it was a bad switch. I was ready to start checking the idc connectors, stepper motor connections, etc..

Wow, interesting. Good call on checking the switch. I think I’d have jumped to those other things when seeing it fluctuate with the switch depresses fully, too.

#1082 2 years ago

Love my new Lebowski.

New Lebowski and left ramp diverter goes down as should but wont go back up untill manually lifted. Seems its not getting signal to go back up.

1. No inpingement it will freely go up and down manually
2. Switches for dude work fine
3. Opto onto ramp works.
4. All plugs on board seated
5. Nothing visual i can see

For further clarity during test menu for left diverter solenoid it also on goes down and does not return back up unless manual lifted.

Does anyone have any ideas on what else i should check?

#1083 2 years ago
Quoted from Rensh:

If it ain’t broken it ain’t pinball. They don’t say this for no reason.

Was just bad luck I guess, apologies for this.

No apologies needed. It's certainly not DP's fault that a random DB5 microswitch would be defective.

You can tell that TBL has been crafted and assembled with care and love. I am very happy with my TBL!

Thank you all for making the machine. Thank you also for supporting it so well.

#1084 2 years ago

Mini Playfield Removal Tips

I recently took my MPF out and successfully re-installed it. I wanted to share my experience and give a few tips for those who will be doing this to their TBL.

First, when you lift your PF and remove the mini-PF flipper, I suggest you disconnect the mini-pf stepper motor cable (circled in red on the picture) and make it loose. You will have to remove a few harness ties. You also want to loosen the mini-pf ribbon cable. You can give it some slack by feeding the excess cable through the harness from the Proc board to where it goes up to the mini-pf. I did not have to disconnect my ribbon cable from the Proc board or cut any of its harness ties. You can just slide it through the harness to give you another 4 inches +/- or so where it extends from the main PF to the mini-pf.

These cables (ribbon and stepper control) were really tight initially going to my mini-pf, and I was afraid of lifting the mini-pf before I made the cables loose. My serial # is 620.

I suggest that you get a T-handle torx set for your TBL if you don't already have one. (See pic of my snappy t-15) There is a min-pf screw UNDER the mini-pf clear ramp, there is a small access hole in the clear ramp (see pic) that is accessible with a thin T15.

When you get all mini-pf (4) screws out (don't forget the one in the back panel), you will find it easier to lift the mini pf up because you gave the ribbon cable some slack as well as having the stepper motor cable loose.

20220316_013655 (resized).jpg20220316_013655 (resized).jpgSnapppy T15 (resized).JPGSnapppy T15 (resized).JPGmini pf clear (resized).JPGmini pf clear (resized).JPG Added over 2 years ago:

Correction, I mistakenly said the mini-pf ribbon cable was plugged into the Proc board; it is plugged in to the main board, not the Proc board...

#1085 2 years ago

Question for owners: Do you experience issues with the BOWLING letters not being registered as I described below?

Issue Description: At the start of every first game after first powering on, the BOWLING letter shots do not register AT ALL. I can hit the MPF loop tons of times over and over again and the game doesn't honor the shots / letters or 'Let's Go Bowling' skill shot AT ALL (this is 100% consistent each time I power up and play my first game).

Then, by the next ball OR next game, all of a sudden the BOWLING letter shots or 'Let's Go Bowling' skill shot begin to register 100% of the time.

I've already been through the rigmarole of replacing switches + finding no issues in switch test mode. So please don't advise that I need to replace switches again. This has been the case since day one of receiving my TBL. If a physical switch issue was the root cause, the consistency of what I described above wouldn't be the case. It's as if the game needs to "warm up" in order to start registering those shots.

I appreciate any advice on troubleshooting to figure out the actual root cause.

#1086 2 years ago
Quoted from dbarker:

Love my new Lebowski.
New Lebowski and left ramp diverter goes down as should but wont go back up untill manually lifted. Seems its not getting signal to go back up.
1. No inpingement it will freely go up and down manually
2. Switches for dude work fine
3. Opto onto ramp works.
4. All plugs on board seated
5. Nothing visual i can see
For further clarity during test menu for left diverter solenoid it also on goes down and does not return back up unless manual lifted.
Does anyone have any ideas on what else i should check?

…I had the same problem. In my case the assembly was a little bit bent/twisted, so after going down the diverter got stuck. The spring wasn‘t able to push it back up. My recommendation is to check for mechanical issues while the machine is turned off.
What happens if you push the diverter down manually?

#1087 2 years ago
Quoted from DrBernd:

…I had the same problem. In my case the assembly was a little bit bent/twisted, so after going down the diverter got stuck. The spring wasn‘t able to push it back up. My recommendation is to check for mechanical issues while the machine is turned off.
What happens if you push the diverter down manually?

Interesting, so it’s a spring mechanism for the “up” and not a solenoid or something. Always wondered how that worked. Was curious to hear about a solution for dbarker’s issue, as it had me puzzled.

If it is only a spring lifting it, then it makes sense that it should be a bent assembly or some other friction issue. I’d think it should be able to be felt by moving it up and down by hand that it isn’t smooth or free moving.

#1088 2 years ago
Quoted from dbarker:

Love my new Lebowski.
New Lebowski and left ramp diverter goes down as should but wont go back up untill manually lifted. Seems its not getting signal to go back up.
1. No inpingement it will freely go up and down manually
2. Switches for dude work fine
3. Opto onto ramp works.
4. All plugs on board seated
5. Nothing visual i can see
For further clarity during test menu for left diverter solenoid it also on goes down and does not return back up unless manual lifted.
Does anyone have any ideas on what else i should check?

Cause found. The screw which acts as a coilstop came loose and was found at bottom cabinet.

EC27D27B-2F54-4F4E-80E1-70AD2C067944 (resized).jpegEC27D27B-2F54-4F4E-80E1-70AD2C067944 (resized).jpeg
#1089 2 years ago
Quoted from mkdud:

Mini Playfield Removal Tips
I recently took my MPF out and successfully re-installed it. I wanted to share my experience and give a few tips for those who will be doing this to their TBL.
First, when you lift your PF and remove the mini-PF flipper, I suggest you disconnect the mini-pf stepper motor cable (circled in red on the picture) and make it loose. You will have to remove a few harness ties. You also want to loosen the mini-pf ribbon cable. You can give it some slack by feeding the excess cable through the harness from the Proc board to where it goes up to the mini-pf. I did not have to disconnect my ribbon cable from the Proc board or cut any of its harness ties. You can just slide it through the harness to give you another 4 inches +/- or so where it extends from the main PF to the mini-pf.
These cables (ribbon and stepper control) were really tight initially going to my mini-pf, and I was afraid of lifting the mini-pf before I made the cables loose. My serial # is 620.
I suggest that you get a T-handle torx set for your TBL if you don't already have one. (See pic of my snappy t-15) There is a min-pf screw UNDER the mini-pf clear ramp, there is a small access hole in the clear ramp (see pic) that is accessible with a thin T15.
When you get all mini-pf (4) screws out (don't forget the one in the back panel), you will find it easier to lift the mini pf up because you gave the ribbon cable some slack as well as having the stepper motor cable loose. [quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Great write up. Thanks.

Pls do note that there is more info on this in the support faq found at https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_support.php

#1090 2 years ago

My diverter flap also getting stuck down.. mechanism works it’s just getting twisted and stuck under the ramp - see pic. Anyone have a solve for this?

(For reference my TBL is from the most recent delivery run in Feb)

5033B628-B860-4A5B-A763-45068587D8D8 (resized).jpeg5033B628-B860-4A5B-A763-45068587D8D8 (resized).jpeg
#1091 2 years ago
Quoted from ZedMcGlunk:

My diverter flap also getting stuck down.. mechanism works it’s just getting twisted and stuck under the ramp - see pic. Anyone have a solve for this?
(For reference my TBL is from the most recent delivery run in Feb)
[quoted image]

Check first below playfield if all screws are tight. Also check if the screw acting as coilstop is in place.

#1092 2 years ago
Quoted from timlah79:

Question for owners: Do you experience issues with the BOWLING letters not being registered as I described below?
Issue Description: At the start of every first game after first powering on, the BOWLING letter shots do not register AT ALL. I can hit the MPF loop tons of times over and over again and the game doesn't honor the shots / letters or 'Let's Go Bowling' skill shot AT ALL (this is 100% consistent each time I power up and play my first game).
Then, by the next ball OR next game, all of a sudden the BOWLING letter shots or 'Let's Go Bowling' skill shot begin to register 100% of the time.
I've already been through the rigmarole of replacing switches + finding no issues in switch test mode. So please don't advise that I need to replace switches again. This has been the case since day one of receiving my TBL. If a physical switch issue was the root cause, the consistency of what I described above wouldn't be the case. It's as if the game needs to "warm up" in order to start registering those shots.
I appreciate any advice on troubleshooting to figure out the actual root cause.

I have the same issue from time to time but after the first ball goes through it usually works fine after that. Could not find the problem either everything seems to work fine.

#1093 2 years ago
Quoted from timlah79:

I appreciate any advice on troubleshooting to figure out the actual root cause.

Have you taken out your mini-PF to look at the traces on the mini-pf circuit board where the orbit switches plug in, and checked their respective sockets for cold joints? Check continuity from the actual switch terminal(s) when the switches are plugged in to traces on the board that are back from the sockets? How is the ribbon cable looking? Plugged in all the way to the mini-pf as well as the Proc board? Any kinks in the ribbon cable? Does the IDC connection on any of the orbit switches look wonky? What about the ribbon cable connections to the ribbon cable plug(s)?

#1094 2 years ago

Please tell me there is some better way to reach the screws under the left ramp area than removing the entire main board?

Plastic to the left of the ramp was loose… i see its screwed from underneath (why not a tnut?) and this entire area is obstructed by the main board. I can see a screw loose and leaning on the board near that daughter card board

And why the mix of torx and non torx in the game. I don’t normally carry torx bits in the bag for space reasons.

#1095 2 years ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Please tell me there is some better way to reach the screws under the left ramp area than removing the entire main board?
Plastic to the left of the ramp was loose… i see its screwed from underneath (why not a tnut?) and this entire area is obstructed by the main board. I can see a screw loose and leaning on the board near that daughter card board
And why the mix of torx and non torx in the game. I don’t normally carry torx bits in the bag for space reasons.

I was able to access that area to tighten a plastic with a long needle nose pliers, but it was no easy feat.

#1096 2 years ago
Quoted from Spelunk71:

I was able to access that area to tighten a plastic with a long needle nose pliers, but it was no easy feat.

I did the same thing!

#1097 2 years ago

Had a wild one last night. Two character multiball, drained both within 2 seconds of each other. Of course after the first drain, the multiball ended, then the second one hit the trough.
Game says Keep Shooting and not only ejected one ball back but re launched both.
Played for about 10 seconds and the game reactivated the sequence of the two player multiball, announcing the characters and whatnot. I realized things were really whacky at that point. About 5 seconds later…poof, black screen and a reboot.
Perfect odd set of conditions or what, I don’t know. Very odd. Might be worth me sending to the bug forum, I guess.

#1098 2 years ago
Quoted from ezatnova:

Had a wild one last night. Two character multiball, drained both within 2 seconds of each other. Of course after the first drain, the multiball ended, then the second one hit the trough.
Game says Keep Shooting and not only ejected one ball back but re launched both.
Played for about 10 seconds and the game reactivated the sequence of the two player multiball, announcing the characters and whatnot. I realized things were really whacky at that point. About 5 seconds later…poof, black screen and a reboot.
Perfect odd set of conditions or what, I don’t know. Very odd. Might be worth me sending to the bug forum, I guess.

Did you happen to start the multi-ball while still within the original "start of ball" ball save time? I'm wondering if you still had a couple seconds of initial ball save time left (paused/held when you played multi-ball) when you drained that 2nd ball, and the code is just not expecting to ever be in that state.

#1099 2 years ago

Can anybody please tell me how to remove my rug? I want to install mylar to prevent the rug label from getting damaged. Or is there a way to install mylar on the rug without removing it?

Pics and any help would be extremely appreciated! Thanks, mk

#1100 2 years ago
Quoted from KSP1138:

Did you happen to start the multi-ball while still within the original "start of ball" ball save time? I'm wondering if you still had a couple seconds of initial ball save time left (paused/held when you played multi-ball) when you drained that 2nd ball, and the code is just not expecting to ever be in that state.

I honestly don’t remember. I just remember it clicking in my brain that…wait…it just kicked back BOTH and it should have been one. It definitely throw the code for a loop though lol

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