I guess a piece of masking tape is the better choice, easier to remove if neccessary.
(I had to swap the boards in my machine and it wasn‘t easy to get these glued in cables out - hot glue is an quick and easy solution for the factory)

Thanks, I've got 2 weeks and a decent amount of games on my epoxy repaired and reinforced pins and they seem to be holding up ok. This seems to be the best solution for now.

Simple question - I'm just having a tough time finding an answer. Should the ball hit the left sling when coming down the Donnie ramp, or should it feed to the left flipper?

Thank you!

With me it hits left flipper and when it’s my unlucky day it sometimes does sdtm.

Mine goes to the right flipper now, but only because I got sick of all the sdtm drains a stuck a small piece of 3m tape on the side of the Donnie ramp right at the end so it bumps the ball just enough to the right coming out of there. The side contour of the ramp probably varies some machine to machine.

Ok thanks guys! I'll look at maybe bending it slightly. Sending it to the sling doesn't seem to be correct from a flow perspective. I certainly don't want it sending the ball STDM though!

Strange. I believe it should go to the middle of the left flipper

*

Noticed two loose bits on my game. One was the top of the metal Walter ramp. The screw into the rubber post was way loose.

Second was the Brunswick ball return plastic flying all around when I’d hit the left scoop directly below it.

Investigated that one and noticed the screws holding in the Brunswick plastic piece were simply going into the blue plastic holes below it. No nuts?

Looked further and sure enough two nuts were floating around the cabinet.

Attempted to re secure things but then it became apparent that there wasn’t enough space for the second nut to even fit on. The left side metal scoop guide was in the way. I couldn’t feasibly bend it either.

Curious if anyone else has this situation.

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This is normal, eg 1 screw doesn’t have a nut.

In new builts the scoop has had a small redesign on the guide for this.

So the question is where the second nut belongs to??

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Oh wow lol. Interesting! I will keep an eye out then. Funny the second found nut is exactly that size, too.

Thinking that it might not hurt to have a small bit of stability in that second bolt where a the nut can’t fit, I blobbed some hot glue on the underside where the threads poke through. Also added some loctite to the one where it can’t fit, which came off on mine. I realize that they are nylon lock nuts, but the bolt really isn’t long enough to bite well into the nylon portion.

I probably should go through and blue (non permanent) Loctite lots of the nuts and bolts since a good number were loose last night and, as mentioned above, the Walter ramp one was backed out so much the ramp was flopping around and was probably about 3 turns more from becoming a playfield projectile-fest or two washers and the bolt.

I have a couple of symptoms we are dealing with that I'm hoping y'all might have some ideas around how to isolate their causes:

1. Trough 1 (only) won't detect a ball. We confirmed that the emitter is emitting, but it always indicates that a ball is not present in the #1 location. All others work properly. Wiggling cables/connectors and whatnot hasn't revealed anything.

2. The right inlane rollover switch was failing to trigger. We noticed, though, that when we lifted the playfield, jostling the playfield up and down DOES trigger that switch in TEST mode. In fact, we then physically disconnected the switch from the board completely and the switch STILL triggers when the playfield is jostled.

Thanks!

Finally got around to doing the last fix on that list which was the 5v wire soldering.
First game in, flippers die within 10seconds of play. Ball drains and game just sits.
I have no idea what else to try.

That’s a pitty.

I can just repeat my still unanswered question on serial and also advice you to sent a mail to [email protected] mentioning fault, what you already did, and yes your tbl serialnumber (backside backbox).

We will take it from there.

Rens
Dp support

Will do. Thanks.

Another broken spring, this time on the Maude diverter. And a broken #2 pin - 3rd one now and the first since I took them all out and reinforced them all with clear epoxy about a month ago.

Also saw a bug I've never seen before. At the end of Nihilist mode I hit a target just as the 2nd ball drained on wave 1. The wave 1 total screen stayed up, but the game kept going. I did a frame of bowling, and that screen came up, and then went back to the Nihilist screen after it finished. The game then locked up when I started a car mode.

Koen is working on a in-between version 058 to fix some bugs which have come to light. This awaiting final version 1.00.

I think your nihilist experience can be related to this remark in the temp bug fix list

- The Nihilist Showdown intro could crash the game if a Nihilist target was hit (or closed due to vibrations?) during the intro

Than the other issues, have seen some broken springs but very limited. The pins are a different topic. Last version supplier insisted they were made of unbreakable material but apparently …

If it is not stainless steel ... it is not unbreakable

I remade full plastic sets for Alien out of PET-G to replace the easy breaking acylic but if this will break in a bad mitmatch of a 80 gramm steelball.
Its all just physics ...

So far all my pins are okay .. for any reason !
If you replace ... see that they all have a Brunswick logo on ! As far as I know there are also "aftermarket" bowling pins out.

Really really looking forward for our 1.0 software but ... take your time. It is more important to make a stable version.
For me there are too many situations were the game does not work fully, specially with the carmodes are still strange things going on. Mode is over, car still present and avoid targets or "Go bowling" to appear.

I think the Nihilist bug I saw is very similar to that, except for the switch hit occurring while the mode was ending instead of during the intro.

The springs aren't that big of a deal, I'm just replacing them as they break with what I hope are more durable ones. After I reinforced the pins, I thought there's no way these things are going to break again. I'm thinking maybe glancing hits are worse than straight on impacts, kind of like how you hit tempered glass with a hammer and it won't break but if you gently hit the edge...

The spring wasn't broken this time, it somehow slipped off of the diverter arm. I put it back on and added a small piece of heat shrink tubing at the end to keep it from happening again. There was a little cap on the end of of the arm's hook before, not sure what happened to it.

Uploaded new version 058 of the Service FAQ at https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_support.php

Also my Dropbox contains same version.

I literally updated TBL to 0.58 yesterday,

Rensh is the code you updated bug fixes?

Also my display is a little flickery- with lines visually going up the screen until it warms up..

Just read the little file: READ THE FULL CHANGELOG .. it is a link, than you can read the full changelog. You can do this with all versions and see any change meade. Therefor the name CHANGELOG is very well choosen

Or just click here:

https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_software#changelog

Flickering is not normal after the boot sequence, unplug and replug all connectors .... to the same plug please !
This could be a first step.

Are these lines horizontal lines especially visible in dark scenes? If yes, that’s interference on the VGA cable. Another cablerouting or cable sometimes helps. This is a reason why current builts have a HDMI display.

I’ve noticed a bug on the new code that I swear I’ve never seen before. I’ve had the mystery award kick the ball out almost immediately, while still showing the animation sequence allowing me to flip during. Anyone else seen this?

If it is a bug, please report it !!!

https://forms.dutchpinball.com/report-issue

I’ll take the glass off today and see if I can reproduce.

Thia happened to me one time on the new code. I have probably played 20 games on the updated code and this only happened once so far.

Ed

Same. It has not happened since.

Rensh New builds have an HDMI display?! How does an owner with a previous VGA build like me obtain this improved HDMI display you speak of?

My guess is they are running a hdmi cable from the PC board to the Display.

Check both - if they have a hdmi port - just buy a cable.

Unless I'm blind, I definitely don't have a HDMI port on my display nor any HDMI port on my ARock board. I only have VGA ports on both.

You are not blind. Only newer builts have hdmi on the display.

You would need to buy one and they are expensive. Why would you?

See the appropriate section in my service faq at https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_support.php, page 121

Answer simply stated: Because it only makes sense to have the benefits of the most up to date hardware.
Long answer: Going from a VGA to a HDMI display sounds like a drastic improvement. Please forgive my ignorance, but why would I need to buy one outright (and I assume an updated ARock board too to support it as well)? If DP makes a significant improvement to a part in new TBL builds (like this one which apparently has a known fault), shouldn't previous build owners be able to at least return the old part in exchange for the new one, free of charge (within some reasonable time period post-purchase of course, like < 1 year)? If not, then at least buy the upgraded part at a discount?

I'm pretty sure this is not the only hardware improvement since my build (March of this year IIRC) so I would like to understand what other improvements have been made since. It would be great if DP would share a hardware change log and notify owners of such changes.

I sent an email to the support alias to ask about all of this so I'll await the reply. I imagine I'm not the only one who would like to know what the expectations are for replacement parts when DP makes hardware improvements, hence why I'm posting these questions here.

Also please don't take these questions as being unappreciative. They are out of curiosity and trying to understand expectations now and moving forward. I am VERY appreciative of the support and parts DP has provided to help fix the other issues I've faced.

Very valid question. Each time I hear of an improved ramp, subway liner or some other update to the game, it’s completely natural to want that same thing. Especially in a game where you have to do so much tweaking (at least for some of us) to make and keep it playable. If there are any improvements that can help bulletproof my often troublesome TBL, I’m all for it. Dutch has been very helpful to me throughout on a myriad of issues, so no negativity intended either. I don’t want an inferior version of the game if updates/upgrades are available.

OK, thought about this and as follows.

We see several kinds of reasons for other parts:

1) the original part is no longer available. Remember the original design of TBL was 2014 thus not strange that for instance the display has nowadays HDMI and not VGA. A SMALL bonus for HDMI that the interference sensitivity you MAY have with VGA is less. But that was NOT the reason for change in display. So, for sure no warranty here but DP is willing to give a discount (depends on which part etc.) for these kind of parts. LCD display costs list price EUR 695 excl shipping and, for me at least, even after a discount it will never be worth it just to have HDMI and not VGA. Its custom made display which explains the high price. PC not needed as current PC has already HDMI. My TBL has for instance still VGA which works fine.
2) changes to make it easier or faster in production. So nothing to gain or loose here. No warranty reason either
3) as with all products sometimes things are found which can improve (or bulletproof as some might say) the TBL. On this topic DP is willing to give the biggest discount. We are not talking of warranty as nothing is broken, just an improved version. If your TBL works fine no reason to change it. Dont fix which aint broken !
4) sometimes also a different vendor is selected because of delivery time or pricing issues. So, same functionality but might look (a little) different. No warranty issue either as nothing is broken

Because of reason 1 a new PC will be introduced soon, new Linux version (backwards compatible) is also on the test bench.

Ofcourse, broken parts during warranty will be free of charge, its warranty after all. But keyword for warranty is: Broken.
Think this is not different (let alone better) with other manufacturers. Think we/I are quite more responsive as many others. But, we are for sure not perfect

Hope this clarifies DP's position in this. If not, just let me know.

Well said my man. Just paid my balance and the anticipation is killing me. CT working out some shipping issues (air/boat) then it’s game on!! Thankfully there’s one on-site by me so I’ve been able to get my fix over the last year. I highly recommend people upgrade to the lighted apron. It’s a bit pricey ($600) but what a difference it makes.

Left flipper freezes in up position. After using the right flipper it "releases" and returns to start position. Someone a clue what this may be? Dont see it in the famous manual...

thx!

Same happened on mine. Fix is close to the same as most any Williams. Just loosen the screws from below and it will release the whole flipper and post. Position it at the correct angle and height off of the field and snug it up.

Thx man, fixed it with your support!

Interesting. How would this fix a sticky flipper?

Or are you saying here adjust the height so that there is some vertical movement which makes sure the flipper doesn’t get ‘stuck on the playfield’? Guess I should add this to the manual. See this as basic info but also understand there are newbies. Will add it for next release. Good advice, thanks.

edit: added to the manual for next release

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Yep, it needed a bit of room so it didn’t hang on the playfield. Same symptom as he described that happened on mine. Right flipper would stick in the up position but it wasn’t because of anything electrical. Any slight vibration (ie the left flipper) would knock it back down.

Why do you spam all topics with this invitation ?
In the TBL threads most people own a TBL and can go easylie to the pin and play live .... I can not get soooo old to watch all streams about pinball.

Exactly what happended here. Must say that the sticking flipper was also a bit lower in resting position. Slightly adjusted this and problem solved. No EOS switch or anything else involved. Just seems to be a mechanical thing.