Seems to work well as my (E6000) glue repaired/reinforced pins have held up over the 5 months since I made the fix and mentioned them in response to timlah79 's pin breakage post.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/a-lotta-ins-a-lotta-outs-tbl-maintenance-thread/page/13#post-6309034

dup

I uploaded a new version of the service faq at

https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_support.php

Earlier posted Dropbox links will continue to work by the way.

Problem and solution ... and a question:

A friends new TBL made bad noises on the rug mechanism. A scratching metal noise.
Today I checked it and found that the shaft is very loose in the lower guide.
I bend the guide and it is okay ... for the next time.

But .. is this correct ?

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7190ffe7-9acb-474a-8e91-610fa51c042b (resized).jpg

Shaft loose in the lower guide is normal. No worries.

E.A. #66 here.... My Subwoofer is still turning off during game play....
I tried unpluging and re-pluging USB cable on soundboard and on the other end... no change.
Bought a new USB cable today and connected it up... No change... made it too second game first ball.... Sub out....

I now am leaving back glass off..... when the Sub cuts off a simple unplug and replug on either end of cable immediately fixes the Sub....

Very, very, annoying....
Any ideas??

I noticed that I get frequent ball hang-ups on the mini playfield where the plastic 'loop ramp' meets the wood. I've tried adjusting the screws, but it seems I can't make this area flush. In reviewing some previously posted pictures of other machines, it seems I'm missing the ramp flap. Was this addressed in fairly recent builds (July 2021) like my game with a different design, or should I work to obtain a proper ramp flap? Picture below:

bl1 (resized).jpeg

They used to have metal ramp flaps.
I would ping DP or Rens. I have seen others complain too. DP should add back the flap - not sure why they took out.

I took a small piece of mylar on all this nasty screws, also on the Dude-ramp.
All the clear ramps are missing a sink for the screwhead. If the ramps would be thicker material I would drill a sink, but they are too fine for doing so.

Only older builds have a rampflap.

The end is supposed to be flush, is it to low or to high? If to low, there should be a plastic transparant spacer below it to bring it to proper height. Is this perhaps missing?

I have currently also a Mpf with same design eg without rampflap. In a few months of playing I still have to see the first ball holdup there so it can be done.

The other complaints cpr9999 is talking about were, to the best of my knowledge, not for this position.

The ramp is lower than the wood. I don’t see any spacers, but I suppose I can figure out a solution without them. It’s minor, just wanted to ensure I wasn’t missing a ramp flap.

The spacer is a piece of transparant plastic in the shape of the blank wood so isn’t very obvious to see.

See attached picture where you can see the edge of the plastic spacer. Let me know if it’s there or really not. Thnx.

7530FCB8-B81C-4A24-B1AC-B552B9B50DA9 (resized).jpeg

No plastic spacer on mine. There must be a less elegant solution as I wouldn’t want to bother and inconvenience the team to ship out such a small part to the US. I will brainstorm!

Sorry for this but if you sent your adress and TBL sn to [email protected] no problem to mail it out to you.

Inconvenience of those who made an error should not be your concern although it’s appreciated ofcourse.

Whelp, airball after airball off of the LOCK and LIGHT targets and last night it finally didn’t get stuck amongst my ModCouple bowling balls in the Brunswick ball return (always a fun glass-off exercise during a game). This time it KNOCKED ONE LOOSE and it entered the playfield.

I avoided the urge to play that ball and it drained into the trough.

After my ball ended, naturally the game freaked out seeing 6 balls installed.

Anyway, that was the final straw. I took both white targets out and bent the main support in the back so they angle slightly down. Of course that then necessitated adjusting the leaves appropriately.

Before I adjusted the back support of the target, they WERE bent back and angled upwards. Not sure if it was a bad batch or what, because from what I’ve read, new machines have sturdier targets. Hoping the metal isn’t weaker now and going to return back to being angled up after being hit.

A quick thank you to the design of the machine, removing targets is SO NICE AND EASY with them clipped in individually. No cutting, desoldering, or having to work on them while dangling over the cabinet.

Ran a few test games and tried to hammer those two targets hard and the results seemed great. Very minimal airballs. Nothing near far enough to reach the Brunswick ball return. Slight airballs up around the ramp entrance. Ended up with a 25M game. Amazing what happens when you don’t have to unstick a ball during the game!

Pic is the ModCouple ball in action in the drain trough lol

B5F1857E-5118-4066-B258-0AF7257309A6 (resized).jpeg

Sorry to read about your issue and also interesting to read this.

Since the change to the last design quite some time ago the complaints are really minimal.

Let’s see if the bent back targets hold up in the coming weeks.

And thanks for the compliment. Will pass it to the factory. Almost everything is with a connector making it as easy as possible.

What do the back of the targets look like, specifically the long metal bracket.

Maybe you got an old batch of targets. The back, rectangular metal piece would bend back easily.

Hi!
Anyone have a solution for music/sound disappearing on RUG modes(2nd from top) to be exact?
Sound resumes after mode.
Any suggestions?

Hi, it's a known bug that is being tracked but because there is so far no way to 100% reproduce it (and there is no obvious cause looking at the code) it is a hard one to crack.
https://dutchpinball.myjetbrains.com/youtrack/issue/tbl-102

If we see an issue like this, is there a way for us to dump state or stats and help with root-cause debug?

My bad if I missed this... Yesterday I noticed my TBL won't start a game and opening the coin door does nothing, can't even get into the menu. Game boots fine, attract mode is fine, just can't start a game or get into the menu. Started looking at fuses under the playfield and while I get the silk screen showing sizes, where can I find what I need for F04 and F06? I checked pinball life and can't seem to find the right amperage unless I'm just blind...

Thanks!!!

Jeff

Jeff!

I'm in the exact same boat. Randomly happened to me on Saturday. Been stuck that way ever since. Granted i was having some intermittent Right flipper issues before, but now I think they are both connected. Let me know how you get a long because my game is unplayable as well.

Nick

See fuse info in the correct section at my faq downloadable at https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_support.php

Dear nick

Sent you yesterday an email on this offering some ideas.

Have a look at it and come back to me via email

Thanks.

Okay so good news is I was in the right spot... Bad news is pinball life doesn't seem to stock the 1A or the 1.6A fuses which naturally is what I need... GGRRRRR

Jeff

EDIT: Amazon to the rescue... LOL

Hi received my game today. Plays good minus a few tweaks. One big bug though - when the ball is shot in the mystery scoop 9 out of 10 times it doesn’t register. After 20 seconds or so the machine looks for the lost ball and shoots it back out but without activating mystery mode. Any help appreciated.

Mine did that, simple adjustment. When it happens try nudging the machine before ball search. It should register after the nudge. If it does then it’s the same issue.

Sounds like you just need to adjust the switch for the scoop so it is triggered consistently by the ball.

I also noticed that the 1 and 1.6 amp fuses aren't stocked by Pinball Life. I called them to see if they happened to have them and perhaps they just aren't listed or out of stock and they don't. They claim they are not commonly used in Pinball and don't carry them as a result. Can you provide a link for Amazon for what you ordered?

Thanks!

I don't have my machine just yet but proactively stocking up on a few things in preparation

Yep! The nudge works. Is the solution adjusting the switch? Or just keep nudging

Adjust the switch

Question

Answer

Take a look a few posts back about the VUK scoop switch. I showed a picture and suggestion of how to fix it. It could be a horizontal adjustment not vertical. Mine was due to the burrs of the holes drilled to screw in the switch. Crazy but true. Needed to sand the metal flat and reattach and that moved the tiny amount it needed to not catch on the bracket.

Is it normal for lower play field plexi glass to get scratched? Worried about the balls getting scratched but don’t know what’s scratching them. Checked all screws to make sure they’re flush and good to go there. Received game yesterday so I think the subway has the new padding.

Yes.
have a look on CFTBL, Congo .... a 80 gramm ball of steel will make scratches.

Here is what I bought.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QCDHPCJ

Thanks,
Jeff

Amazon really isn't a good place to buy electronic components. Buy Littlefuse or Eaton brand fuses from GPE, Mouser, or Digikey.

Like almost anything on amazon these days, what you getting from them is the absolute bottom of barrel quality Chinese knock off goods.

Any tips for installing side blades on TBL? The clearance seems super tight on the sides, and in all honesty, I've never installed side blades on a normal stern/BW. Any tips/tricks/etc. would be appreciated!

I install art or mirror blades in all my modern games. TBL is very tight.

Recommend using the wet method for artblade installation:

And get a set of these protectors:

https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html

LOL... That's funny when you consider that any other "name brand" you'd buy is ALSO made in... Wait for it... CHINA... Or some other SE Asia country...

I'm sure what I ordered will be just fine and will get the job done.

Jeff

Of course that is true, but real brands typically have quality control, warranties, and stand behind their products. They don't evaporate overnight and rebrand and start selling under a different brand name a day later on Amazon.

It’s a 1a fuse guys, don’t overthink it

EA #70 received over the weekend. Been playing a lot today but having a few issues:
1 - Game will sometimes freeze when a ball(s) get stuck in the mystery scoop. I had another ball still in play but no shots were registering and no change in the score. I tried a reset by holding down the start button but that did not do anything. drained the ball in play but the game never went into ball search mode. I had one ball in the left (Mark it zero collect) hole and 2 stuck in the mystery scoop. The game never went into ball search. I turned the game off and back on and it gave an error message upon boot up and then ejected the 3 balls and game was playable again.
2 - Sometimes i start a character multiball or rug mode and the music just stops...game continues to play and score and when i drain down to one ball, everything goes back to normal with music.
3 - Many times the ball gets stuck in the mystery scoop...a big nudge will usually get it to recognize ball is in there and award the mystery. Based upon what I have read, seems to be that the switch needs adjustment.

love the game but these issues have been happening a lot more frequemtly and is very frustrating!

Any advice would be appreciated...by the way, the game came with .57 installed.

Thanks
Ed

3. Adjust the switch
2. This is a known issue that Koen has been trying to track down.

For 2 and 3 see post above, for 1 is the advice to reseat the usb cables at the PC and Proc. They are known to get a little loose during transport and yours just crossed half the globe.

See also the proper section in the service faq at https://www.dutchpinball.com/the_big_lebowski_pinball_support.php

Would someone with a recent build give me some guidance about where these connectors go (power input board and bowling alley mech)? The pictures in the manual don’t seem to correspond completely to my wiring and I want to make sure I don’t @&$! anything up. Thanks.

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Edit: Ok, I think I figured it out. What threw me on the main board (second pic) was the middle connector having fewer holes than pins on the board, but I found a picture that showed which ones are not plugged in. On the bowling alley mech, I just plugged in the connectors that correspond to the correct number of pins to the plugs on the board. If someone could confirm that that sounds correct, I'd appreciate it.
One other question: there was a loose, unconnected cable in the backbox labeled "CPU." I did not see where that would plug in, so I'm assuming it is there for auxiliary power if necessary. Does that sound right? Thanks.

.

Does anyone else have an issue with ribbon cables on the underside of the playfield getting loose or falling out over time? I think I’ll try some tape for now, but if there is a better solution let me know.

They need to be hot glued in place.