It is not bricked .. just connect a keyboard.
Also I suggest to clone a working SSD (and hold a copy on the pc) , so if in trouble you can switch the SSD (takes 4 minutes) and play again.

We're back online following the directions sent over by DP Support (Rens). Thanks!!! Now I know going forward what to do and if I missed it in this thread my apologies but here's the procedure:

Connect a keyboard and mouse.
Start up TBL
Push windows key
You get now a list of files and folders, go to TBL
In this folder you will find a txt file called Version. Open it. Likely it will now show 056. Change this to last working version, assume 055.
Save file and reboot

Thanks,
Jeff

My lower playfield window is getting a bit scratched up, nothing major just annoying... LOL Is this the correct replacement?

https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8702

Thanks,
Jeff

Yes.

You will need to modify it a little bit, just compare it with the one you take out. Nothing fancy.

Turns out the coil had shifted. I loosened the two screws, realigned, and it works fine. I did get a scare, 1 game in, the upper flipper stopped working. After a power off/on everything's seems back to normal. Thanks

New issue to report. Game has been setting in the same place since opening. The cabinet decals are now coming off. Not even sure what to do. New cabinet decal set?

20210928_073508 (resized).jpg

20210928_073516 (resized).jpg

Try heating it up with a hairdryer (don’t overheat !!) and see if you can stick it back and flatten it out.

Hi all
I don‘t know if I‘m posting this in the right place but my TBL Stopped ejecting the ball from the trough. When I remove all 5 balls and run the switch test, I get this message on the screen. When I run a piece of paper between the optos, only opto 1 and 2 work properly. Any ball trough opto problems reported yet? Is there a thread I can read? I‘m also pretty new to the forum.
Thanks for any help
Kaspar

715488D6-A478-4B79-A8B9-0DDEA1D8FDA8 (resized).jpeg

Pls check your mailbox in regard to a response I sent you from DP support a few hours earlier on this topic with a document for you to check. Let me know your findings.

Rensh When will the rest of us with the clicking power supplies get the updated software to install . Thanks Tim

I'm a new 2nd owner of a newer low play build and while I've had a couple minor issues, these were easily fixed.

One issue I haven't been able to fix yet is with the bowling alley release pin. The pin will be up for the first ball and it releases ok, and then very slowly starts to come back up. After that I get 4-5 balls which roll through until the release pin is high enough to hold a ball for me to shoot the spare.

Comparing mine to the picture in the support manual, my release pin is farther down in the U-shaped cut-out towards the foul line, but doesn't seem to be rubbing on the wood, and I can manually push it down and it comes back up freely. I was going to try adjusting the coil bracket as suggested in the manual to move the release pin farther back to see if that helps. Anything else I should try while I'm messing with it?

Release pin was rubbing and just needed an adjustment to get it working 100%. The pictures in tech support manual helped a lot.

Hello everybody,
I had no problems with the car modes for many weeks. Now the car rattles after starting a car mode. Sometimes the rattling stops after the first hit…
I guess the targets might be bent backwards a little bit!? If so, any ideas for a permanent fix?

Does it rattle in open position? Than parking targets likely need some adjustment

With rel 057 the car stepper test nowadays clearly mentions the name of the switch activated to easy to identify.

Let me know how you get along.

Hello Rens,
the problem is solved. However, it was not because of the adjustment of the targets.
The reason for the rattling was that the bracket of the garage door had bent on the axis, so that the outer edge of the door scratched the playfield in front of the left target. As a result, there was probably not enough strength to operate the switches.
Fortunately, I have a playfield protector installed…
I bent the garage door up again, just enough that it doesn’t touch the PF anymore when the door is opening.
However, this will not be a permanent solution.
Greetings,
Bernd

This is a new one for me. The axis is quite a thick one so will not bent easily. Did you make a picture how it looked eg at which spot it bent? Quite surprised frankly speaking this happened.

…the axis itself is thick and maybe solid enough.
But the hinge of the door consists in principle only of two metal rings that sit on top and bottom of the axis. And the door with the car hangs on it. And that’s a bashtoy, hit by the ball from a short distance a thousend times…
The difference before-after cannot be shown on a photo, sorry.

Hi there! My bunny plastic is broken off at the top and cracked on the bottom. I'd like to protect these, but also purchase a replacement. Are there replacements available anywhere?

Thank you!

If you consider a „do it yourself“ solution, you could create clear protectors from 1mm macrolon (easy to cut), e.g. like this…

0781A285-021B-466B-B76D-D5C50CE76D8F (resized).jpeg

that looks great! I can certainly do that, but I’m hoping to find actual replacement plastic with the graphic since mine is broken in multiple spots :-/

Buy plastics from Cointaker.com

Ok I’ll check them out. I think they only sell as a set?

Older topic, but I've noticed that the rear leveler feet have to be almost fully extended to get around 7 degrees. Is that what most folks are running on this game? If so, I might need to increase flipper strength to engage rug mode at all!

6.5

I’m dead on at 6.5 now. Will hang there then. Seems to be working fine except the never-ending left ramp issues. Otherwise such a great game.

Same thing on mine today. I just got some needle nose pliers, pulled/twisted the end of the spring a bit, and reconnected it to the diverter to get it working again.

And about a week ago the same loop on the end of my left flipper spring broke. I believe the flipper return springs are part number 10-364. Bad batch of springs I guess.

Jeez - my left flipper return spring broke yesterday as well! Ordered 5 for $1.55 + $13 shipping :-/ Cointaker minimum shipping is rough.

I ordered a couple of the flipper springs from Marco, so shipping was $10, but I got a couple other things too. But not the diverter spring, that I didn't know I needed until yesterday. So far my makeshift spring repairs seem to be working ok. Here's what the diverter spring looked like before I fixed it. Maybe the spring holes have a sharp edge on them that eventually cuts through the spring loops?

BrokenSpring (resized).jpg

I updated to the latest code. Now I am getting a system error pop up. I searched the forums and found a fix, but when I hit esc to get to the Ubuntu screen the system error pops up again and goes to a black screen. I can not get to the ubuntu screen to fix the error. Anyone else run into this?

Try this: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-official-club-thread/page/58#post-6544575

That should get you into the file manager if hitting the windows key and typing terminal doesn't work. I had to get rid of the error message recently and I think I might have had to hit cancel on the error screen after hitting esc to be able to open a terminal window.

I think we can get rid of these pop-ups permanently by disabling the Ubuntu apport service. If I happens again I'm going to try that.

Try this procedure

https://www.dropbox.com/s/va6ipxwx7x8mt4s/System%20error%20pop-up%20FAQ.pdf?dl=0

DP is working on a complete overhaul of the operating system, hopefully this will make this happen no more.

Try this

My game keeps resetting during play. Haven't been able to pinpoint any common point when it happens.

Just don't lock it down to the point where I lose my real Creedence, man.

The person I bought mine from said he saw a couple resets. When I got it home I made sure to reseat all of the USB connections, and I haven't seen any in a couple hundred games, most on the newest software.

With questions like this it helps to mention your serialnumber as builts change over time.

For starters: https://www.dropbox.com/s/k0snmzydewcwg7u/Freezes%20hangups%20switches%20not%20responsive%20issues%20FAQ.pdf?dl=0

Thank you. I will check it out.

I went through the pages. Found two nihilist switches stuck. That cleared the errors. Re-seated all the connections in that list.
Played a few games and didn't make it through any of them without an issue.
Flippers keep dying mid game, ball drains and game gets confused and just sits there requiring a reset.

As mentioned in my previous post, a serialno would help.

Next step would be to add additional 5V wires as per the document. Or reflow the solder at the power pins of the Proc. Depends on serialnumber.

They don't even exist so why bother? /sarcasm

My Maude gate sometimes stays fully open when it shouldn't. I'm thinking it is probably the rollover back there not registering and I'm going to check that later. It should always close after a ball passes through, correct?

Correct. Should close. See if the spring is properly attached.

...Sounds like the trough might be "seeing" a ball when it shouldn't and ending your ball prematurely... We've had intermittent trough problems with that same signature, but it only happens occasionally so we've never "fixed" it...

Thanks. The spring was attached, but the end of the connecting rod, or whatever it is called, was sometimes getting caught up on the edge of the opening (see before picture). I carefully bent it so it has plenty of clearance now.

MaudeGate (resized).jpg

PSA: For those who have to lift their playfield a lot, be on the lookout for your PF hinge pivot(s) coming unscrewed. I've had so many physical issues with my TBL that I've had to pull the playfield up and out more times than I ever felt I should. Apparently over time and time again of pulling the playfield out and up, the hinge pivot on the left side has slowly unscrewed itself. While I was fixing something completely unrelated I realized that my Left Ball Gate wasn't closing. Upon investigation, the cause was this pivot had unscrewed itself so far out of the cabinet that it contacted the the ball gate coil bracket. Therefore as I was pulling the playfield up, the hinge pivot caught and bent the gate coil assembly completely backwards, ruining the entire thing. Fortunately I was able to bend the assembly back into its vertical position then Allen wrench the hinge pivot back into its place. Check both hinges on your machine and make sure they aren't inching their way inward.

bad rail guide and assembly bent (resized).png

THANK YOU RENS.

I am not adept at pinball repair at all. Turn on the game, some clicking Turn it off. Turn it on again, all three motors fail. Luckily I have Rens and the group on this thread.

Go back to 542 and 543. Find the same problem. Same solution (blown fuse 06). Go to the technical manual in dropbox, Rens has a section on fuses, a description of replacements and -- for good measure -- a link to pinball life to get new ones.

So thank you to everyone on this thread who helps each other. and most of all big thanks to Rens who helps us all.

My TBL left flip is dead, the button switch is operating fine; all three coil lugs measure ~41vdc, it’s just no longer grounding. It’s on location so I don’t have any info on what led to the failure.

I do a lot of board work on old through-hole boards but these PF mounted boards are very new to me. I have no idea how to approach board work on this one and I don’t know how to source schematics… or what transistor(s) could be affected.

Is there any documentation on flipper issues that could help me get this sorted? Can I even do this board work myself?

F7BB491E-5D37-4DE2-89FF-3D02325926E6 (resized).jpeg

You would be the first I think who has a burned out transistor so unlikely.

Now the signals go from the MMB to the FMB CI two ribbon cables. Can you, carefully, reseat them? Further more, can you swap the two connections going from the FMB to left and right flipper coil? This to see if problem moves with the swap. They are next to each other on the pcb so easy to try out. Had one time a failure like this caused by a bad crimping of the wire inside the connector.

Switched the flipper cables, that made it so the left flipper worked, right dead. Will try the ribbon cables up stream next.

DangerTerror I had the same flipper issue. It was caused by the top of the bowling alley intermittently touching the PCB you have taken a picture of. You can see coating removed due to rubbing, showing bare copper in your picture. The fix was the lift the mounting bracket that holds the playfield under the lockdown bar as high as it could go.

Good catch, thanks.

See page 175 of https://www.dropbox.com/s/tpyc5ww2te7rxz7/Technical%20support%20TBL%20FAQ%20manual.pdf?dl=0

So far reports were right flipper were here left flipper which caught me off guard, apologies for this. Will edit faq.