Thanks. Game works and is amazing. Still don’t know what they connect to. I have the Gutterballs topper. Maybe that is it?

I know of the FAQ. I consulted it before posting. The door close switch and the two parking targets switches are all working just fine in every other way during gameplay, no stuck alerts or anything. I don't think this is a switch issue. If you're certain it's not a code issue, then I think it's mechanical in other places of the car door, beyond the switches themselves. The FAQ only talks about checking switches...

I stopped playing my game because of this issue.

Rensh Let me know if I need to continue along our support thread about this. The right side audio "hiss" is still an issue even after installing the new audio PCB DP sent. I thought it was happening less frequently (like I said in the below post) but it turns out that the only difference is that I haven't left the game powered up as long as before. I leave the machine on for say an hour, not even playing it and all of a sudden the hiss is back. Also another person has reported it which I quoted in this post on the other forum thread. Please advise. https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-big-lebowski-official-club-thread/page/46#post-6328691

See the section I dedicated to this topic in the FAQ https://www.dropbox.com/s/tpyc5ww2te7rxz7/Technical%20support%20TBL%20FAQ%20manual.pdf?dl=0

I visited DP yesterday and this was a topic of discussion.

Chief technical officer thinks it’s USB related and is hoping-expecting a full overhaul of the OS with updated drivers, Linux, etc will do the trick for those experiencing this issue after checking the FAQ. This work has already been contracted to a person having done this work for other companies like Spooky and while I was there UPS picked up the digital part of the TBL to be sent to that person. No timeline set yet but HOPEFULLY should be finished within a reasonable timeframe. This wish was on DP agenda for a longer time but finding somebody trustworthy to do this work took some time unfortunately.

I had last week a similar experience with my own TBL where a reboot did the trick. You would expect that in case of a heat issue the problem would remain as rebooting is like a minute work. But apparently restarting OS was sufficient. Main technician really thinks it’s not the audio board. Time will tell if he is right.

Anyone else have the pop bumper bowling ball cap coming off mid game? Any suggestions for getting them to stay in place. Thinking hot glue gun might be next.

….happy about having all neccessary adjustments done and that the game is running quite stable.

The Big Lebowski pin really is a HIGHLIGHT in my collection!

There’s just one thing left: if the game is tilted it should collect the balls, e.g. from the Jesus VUK or the scoop.
But, it doesn‘t! The only way to continue gameplay is via the coil test by triggering the relevant coil manually.

I don‘t know, if this „To Do“ was reported before.

This is a new one but than again, I am not a tilting person. Am on holiday so can’t check but forwarded it to the programmer who has put it on his list to test. To be cntd and thanks for reporting it.

Had the same issue just used a small piece of double sided tape in the hole, no problem since.

DP has changed glue some time ago and this new glue is supposed to be stronger. Which serialnumber do you have? In case it’s a newer built I better let DP know to have a second look at the new glue ….

S/N DP-01-00466

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Could someone please share a photo of their shooter lane diverter assembly from the underside of the playfield? The lower spring on mine keeps snapping where it connects to the bottom arm/hits the coil stop area. Just wondering what I may need to adjust to avoid this from happening. It happened the first time within a month of owning the machine, then after replacing with a brand new spring that one broke within a matter of a week or so. Thanks!

Help ! I was playing my 2 day old game this evening and the display screen went dark it does flicker every 4-5 seconds like its trying to come back up but I can only see the graphics for a millisecond. I have unplugged and reseated the cables at both ends at motherboard and the display but still the same issue. The green light is lit on top of display. Thanks Tim

Is it ‘just’ the screen not working and the rest is all working eg you can play, get sounds etc Or is the whole tbl dead?

I just recieved my Labowski today, have had the game freeze and stop playing all together mid game. has this happened to anyone else?

left flipper freezes for 1.5 sec if you hold it down right does not. Music stops playing, and a few other things that are minor but I would like to figure out the flipper issue. I cant play a game due to the flipper sticking constantly.

I would appreciate any help I can get to diel these issues in. My name is mark if sombody can help my number is 561/414/3620 if you prefer to call.

Is there a parts manual for the Big Lebowski or a PDF file of one.

Unfortunately not.

Only thing available is a support manual I made which you can see at https://www.dropbox.com/s/tpyc5ww2te7rxz7/Technical%20support%20TBL%20FAQ%20manual.pdf?dl=0

Are we talking here of a magnetic coilstop or a loose coilstop? You mention several things like freezing. Did you reseat the usb cables? This as you just got it and I can imagine cables came loose during transport.

See also the support manual in The above post.

If it doesn’t help email [email protected] mentioning issue and serialnumber TBL.

Rensh Thanks for the link to the support manual it will definitely help in the future. Tim

The left coil when pushed stays in the up position, sometimes for one or two seconds and sometimes I need to shut it off to reset it because it will not come back down at all. It is a small pc board behind the button that actuates the coil.

Sometimes the game screen and entire game freezes and I need to shut it off. I love the game and was laughing my butt off playing it. seemed to be ok until about 10 games and then it started acting up. thank you for the help

Can you check if the flipper button is perhaps mechanical stuck and thus Keeps activating the coil?

In regard to the freezing, start with reseating the usb cables. Have a look at the above mentioned pdf page 26 and further.

If not helping, mail dp support incl your TBL serial number.

I got my Lebowski from Cointaker on Friday. My left flipper also sticks. It will get stuck in the up position from time to time, but when it doesn’t get stuck, it still returns back to neutral position slower than the right flipper. It feels like there is binding on the mechanism that isn’t there on the right flipper mech when I go under the playfield and manually actuate it. I’m not sure if it’s the same problem mark1971 is having since it’s the same batch of games. 2 minor issues I’m having that I’m wondering if anyone else has seen. Game is level, but every 20 ball launches or so it will get stuck to the left and need a nudge to launch it. The cream target gets caught up on the white post and registers as a stuck switch. I don’t see any way to adjust the target slightly over to the right.

Overall I’m very happy with the game and I think there are always going to be little hick ups shipping something this complicated across half the globe.

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Hi,

Just a couple ideas that might be worth a try:

1) Are you saying the flipper feels like there is friction when being moved by hand? If so, there is a good chance the flipper is rubbing as it's too low to the playfield. Loosen that bolt that clamps flipper shaft to the coil arm and slightly raise the flipper and re-tighten.

2) Can you send a photo of the underside of the targets, I can't remember if they attach individually on this machine and mine isn't handy. My target is also super close to the post but never gets caught on it. The thicker metal bracket part of the switch need to be either bent a little or attached a tiny bit over so this doesn't happen anymore. May be possible to just bend the entire switch assembly a little without unscrewing it from the machine.

3) Check the level right on the actual playfield to be sure it's not slightly sitting on an angle on the hinges. If it is level and you have enough tilt front to back on the machine than that little orange post next to the ball is the issue. A thin rubber ring will slip over the post and should fix the problem. With enough tilt on the machine, it may also just roll to position off this post as is.

Hope one of these helps!

I rebuilt the left flipper mech and it seems to have fixed the problem. I’ll have to put some more games on it to be really sure. It seems like they are WBC fliptronic which I think is a great system.

Looks like the targets are riveted, I’ll mess with that another day.

I’m just going to start with a rubber ring on the post and see if that solves it.

I’m going on a business trip and won’t see the game again until next weekend.

The target assembly is screwed underneath the playfield. If you can't bend it to solve the problem, that's where you may have to move the mounting point.

If there riveted targets these may be the weak metal back plate. The reinforced version is much better for the stand up targets.

Reinforced version is only for nihilist and lock targets and parking targets.

Other targets are as far as I know still standard targets. Reinforced not needed as they don’t get direct hits as for instance the lock targets. So I would think some bending is possible or put a washer under one of the screws so it slightly tilts.

This is correct. Standard BW material from pinball life.

Now this makes two out of recent batch and both left side. Will inform the factory to double check inventory.

Today (on our brand spanking new machine) we had problems with the scoop assembly.

First problem was the ball was getting stuck on the microswitch in the scoop. Adjusting the switch and bending the actuating arm didn't work. So we replaced the microswitch with a brand new one from our Bally/Williams microswitch stock. Comparing the "bad" microswitch with our replacement, the bad one required too much force to actuate it. The Bally/Williams one was just right.

Second problem was the scoop was throwing the ball out erratically...... sometimes straight down the middle. I noticed the coil assembly had alot of side-to-side slop in the plunger (on a brand new machine). So I replaced the coil sleeve. No more slop and now the ball shoots out consistently right where it should.

Yesterday, the machine reset twice in the middle of a game.

Thanks for sharing and certainly not encouraging news for folks like myself that are close (hopefully) to getting their machine. Hopefully your issues are resolved quickly!

Minor issues. Every new machine there is always minor tweaks.

Ken …However the resetting is more of a concern. Did you check the usb cable between PC and Proc?

There was a noticable difference in the inside diameter of the bad coil sleeve and the regular replacement sleeves we have in stock. The I.D. of the bad one was way bigger. Maybe Dutch Pinball just happened to get a bad sleeve?

One big thing I do not like about this machine is the large circuit board on the underside of the playfield. They have all surface mount components plus you have to physically remove a bunch of mechanical assemblies before the boards can be removed! Surface mount parts will make it impossible for me to repair the boards should they need repair in the future. The boards would have to be sent out to get repaired. This is a big thumbs down from me.

Sorry to read about your issue. Must have been a bad sleeve, don’t get reports from other customers but will report it to the factory so they can do some checking. Also the switches are original Cherry switches as used by BW.

Than the big pcb. I hear you but to assure you, the components used on them are extra high grade and the transistors can withstand the full current the power supply can deliver eg a bad coil should not be able to blow a transistor. To take the pcb from the playfield I think it’s like a 15-20 minutes job, no more.

Flipper transistors are on the small bord upfront and the Proc and pled are on piggy back headers.

Also the transistors have big legs and if you can solder trough hole this should also be possible for you. Yes, it’s SMD but not the very tiny version

So don’t worry to much pls.

Dear Rensh, my left diverter ramp coil is not firing in test mode, it may have been shorted when I was adjusting the maude rollover, I heard a bit of a electric snap. Please can help me. What can I test? Transistor? Coil? Fuse? Thank you so much

Ok. Sorry to hear this.

Don’t expect that a transistor is blown as they can withstand more current as the power supply can deliver.

So first point to check are the fuses.

Do other coils still work? Second would be to check the coils resistance. Is it zero or infinite or …..

Is the diverter always on or off? I assume off.

If it’s the coil they are standard BW material so easy to get. But as most of them come with a diode don’t forget to cut the diode off !!

Let me know what you find.

Ok, It did appear to me that the coil resistance was infinite, like there was a disconnect in the coil. This is not normal, as the jet bumper coils had 12-16 ohms resistance. The diverter is off. Fuses look good. All other coils work.

Don’t know it exactly of this coil but there should be resistance. Infinite is for sure not normal. So coil needs to be replaced I think. Articlenumber is on the coil but I think its AE 26-1200, just don’t forget to take of the diode if present on the news coil !!

Thank you Rensh, the tech here told me what to write re:infinite resistance. I used my multimeter myself just now, the first reading picture is of a pop bumper coil that works and it is AE 26-1200 (10.8) second reading picture is of the ramp diverter coil which is the same AE 26-1200 coil (1.312M ohm)
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Hey folks! Just got my Lewboski yesterday and have been trying to dial it in. I have a problem... the MeanWell power supply all of the sudden started voltage repeatedly switching itself.... This can not be good, I am assuming it's doing this due to overload. any ideas?

Yup replace the coil.

Just got back and put a couple games on my brand new TBL. The door for the car likes to hang out slightly open and do this constant vibrating slam anytime the ball isn’t in play. Anyone seen this before or have any idea where I should start adjusting before I mess around in there?

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...yeah this happen sometimes here too.

Most likely the car home switch needs some adjustment. Every time a new ball is launched position is checked so you can see this. See the Suppoer FAQ which I already posted several times

This remains puzzling. The outside diameter is always the same and cant be bigger as than it doesnt fit in the coil. So the plastic wall was with this one much thicker ?? Can you perhaps post a picture showing faulty sleeve and correct sleeve?

Thank you for the quick reply RENSH. I found the posted faqs and videos. The screws holding the switch are stripped and allowing the switch the slide up and down on alignment. I did a temp fix with electrical tape, but will let cointaker know before warranty expiration.

Still incredibly happy with the game and blown away by the quick support!

You are welcome.

But screws are stripped? They are not screwed into wood. If I recall correctly those two screws are hold with M2 or M2.5 screws and a nut beneath the switch. So just hold the nut with a plier and turn the screw from the top.

Took another look. It was my mistake. I incorrectly assumed that the screw went into the soft plastic of the switch. I felt around and found the nut on the back. I just need to find something in my toolbox to get into that tight area and hold the nut so I don’t have to pull anything apart.