(Topic ID: 164645)

A little Bondo help for a newbie.


By OLDPINGUY

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 13 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by ls1chris
  • Topic is favorited by 10 Pinsiders

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    #1 3 years ago

    Time for me to dive into some restoration projects.

    Ive never used Bondo before, and in just checking out their products, using say Walmart as a reference:

    http://www.walmart.com/search/?query=bondo

    There are lightweight putty, 2 part, Glass reinforced.....

    My current need is to patch some particle board, like a 4" gash.

    Which to use? what would I need to know about the differences in this product, and how you all use Bondo with regard to these
    differences? Is the patch tape mesh a must? or at what size?
    Lastly, I imagine a flatter even surface to dry, would result in less sanding....any sanding tricks to focus on?

    Much appreciate the help on Bondo....Art

    #2 3 years ago

    You will be fine with just the body filler. I don't think you need glass or fiberglass reinforced Bondo for fixing a gash in wood. I've used it to repair arcade cabinets before putting down new art and it's great.

    A few tips...

    - Make it in small batches. It hardens quickly and you have to move quickly once you mix it. You can waste a lot of Bondo if you make too much at once. DO NOT mix it until you are totally ready to start applying.

    - Use a spreader to make sure you're working it into your gash and getting as even of an application as possible. It'll save you lots of sanding and keep bubbles from appearing.

    - Unless your gash is REALLY deep, and even then you probably don't need it, skip the patch tape.

    - Sanding is pretty straight forward. Sand it even with the area around it. Use a heavy grit to start to make it go quickly and step down to finer grits to give it a smooth finish for painting.

    - Don't be afraid. If you screw anything up, you can always sand it down and try again. Being timid will make you make more mistakes than just jumping in and learning through experience.

    #3 3 years ago

    And here is my 2 cents worth.
    you can use plastic credit cards to apply/remove bondo.
    I use the fake cards companies send out as advertising.
    pick one will the least color, "color bleeds, very bad, many deaths".
    you can cut them to be just the size you want, makes great application tools.
    and throw them away when you are finished.
    Also, a sharp edge on a credit card makes a great tool for diggin dirt out of cracks, and tight places.
    Beer.

    #4 3 years ago

    I use the first one in your link. To add to what was already mentioned....

    You will remove 98% of the Bondo you apply. Even though it cures in 20 minutes or so, the longer you leave it, the less it will plug up your sandpaper. Start with 80 grit. That removes most of it. Then go to whatever grit you need to finish. Use some type of plastic applicator as you'll end up throwing it away when done. Once mixed, you've got 2 to 3 minutes to apply. Depends on the amount of hardener.

    Bondo leaves a bit of a skin when cured. This skin is what plugs up the sandpaper. I like to apply it as smooth as possible, then use a paint scraper to remove that top skin. Saves on paper.

    If you're painting this surface when done patching, keep in mind, the area that gets Bondo, will look like glass once sanded. It may end smoother than the surrounding areas.

    #5 3 years ago

    Thank you, how good is the pre mixed putty?

    #6 3 years ago

    Looks like art is putting his retirement time to good use. Good for you.

    #7 3 years ago

    You bet! This project is fixing up a Coin Pusher!

    The Plain basic black has a few bumps and is getting LEDs, and a re theme!
    I have it set up to take all size coins, and my wife wants it Beachy, so Ill add some palms and rubber gators as prizes,
    but the kids are trying to get the $100 Bill, and a 24 Karat Gold Coin in there along with fake pirate treasure!

    Its a big piggy bank for everyone to drop their change, and I will use the funds for, ehmm, "Libations"
    I throw a few in the pusher when friends come over......I think these should be set up in Legal states that way!

    Anyway, back to topic, does one Bondo work better than another with Cheap Particle board?

    #8 3 years ago
    Quoted from OLDPINGUY:

    Anyway, back to topic, does one Bondo work better than another with Cheap Particle board?

    Good to see you making good use of your new found retirement Art. . Stick with the standard bondo as apposed to the premix. I think it is better. It will do you well for standard gashes and gouges. If you need to repair cabinet corners and such then go with the fiberglass reinforced or better. The standard Bondo will not hold up to a bang on a rebuilt corner. Hope this helps some.

    #9 3 years ago

    The premixed putty will shrink if you fill anything remotely deep with it. Better to always use the 2 part.

    #10 3 years ago

    Hey Art,

    Don't forget to use some of these while sanding - Harbor Freight Rocks!

    http://m.harborfreight.com/nonwoven-dust-masks-50-pack-93482.html

    I tend to use Dolphin Glaze to smooth out partical board - it's easier to work with unless you have a deep area to fill.

    amazon.com link »

    2 weeks later
    #11 3 years ago

    Oldpinguy, kinda late to your party and your probably already done the filling part , but i thought i would give a couple tips anyway. firstly when i am sanding a cab i try not to take it all the way to bare wood, i try to leave most of the paint as it helps as a guide coat, showing the dents and gouges ect, especially with particle board and that just eats the primer and paint, it keeps the wood fibers sealed.
    stay away from kittyhair ( bondo with fiberglass strands) unless your filling large through holes. two part regular bodyfiller is what you want.
    MIX THE CAN!!! the can will be sitting on the shelf for who knows how long and the resins separate.
    when i am adding the hardener i usually do about a dollop and 3/8 thick and golf ball size . i run one bead across the filler of the hardener ( i know most instructions state to make an X across that always seems way to much and you end up with a half can of filler and no resin hardener. and knead it through with the spreader.
    less is more!! i put down enough to fill the scratch and scrape it clean, it's easier to add more later then spend hours sanding it down.
    after i fill, and its set up i like to use a rattle can of high fill primer and give it a quick hit. most will not do this but it gives me a guide coat to work with, it seals the wood fibers so i dont oversand and create a new issue beside the repair i am trying to do.
    when sanding i use a dual action orbital palm sander, one the lowest setting and let the machine do the work. if your in a hurry and am balls to the walls fastest setting and putting pressure as you sand, it makes too much heat, the filler then melts instead of sands and will plug the paper so fast.
    if the sander feels "wobbly" on the surface your working on, check the paper, you might have a build up starting. if you see one, knock it off it you can and continue.
    after each fill/sand i take 100watt bulb ( trouble light) and look the panel over in many directions looking for issues. i circle with an HB pencil for filling , and do a zigzag for more sanding. pencil wont bleed through filler and primer like a marker will.
    i use 120 to strip , 120 to sand the filler / primer , once filling is where i want it to be i then switch to 220.
    i am working on a sinistar cab and will post a few pics later today.

    #12 3 years ago

    Thank you!

    Your time to share will certainly be of help to everyone!

    #13 3 years ago

    oldpinguy, i was just out working on that cab and i remembered something that was mentioned prior about "premixed" filler. what a guy wants to buy is an automotive "glazing putty" or 'glazing filler" .
    this is ONLY for after your in final primer and you drop a tool or see a scratch or something you missed. it dries really fast and is softer than your primer so it sands out quick without digging into all your previous work. if you only use this on your project as mentioned earlier it will shrink like crazy.

    quick painting tip , if you dont have access to a hvlp gun / compressor and you must use a roller, ask your paint store for a compatible "flow control" additive. for high gloss latex i use "floetrol"
    here is a link
    https://www.flood.com/products/paint-additives/floetrol-latex-based-paint-additive

    what it does is slow the adhesion process so the paint will flow out .
    i spray my cabs , but i use this stuff for baseboards, window trim ect when i want a spray like finish but masking an entire room off isn't feasible.
    i have seen many threads about stencils bleeding on the edges and people are upset and point fingers to the quality of the stencil. sometimes this is the reason but mostly its the prep and finish of the base coat. orange peel , brush lines, roller lines give raised edges and a route for paint to bleed. a flow additive will help with that.
    and easy on your stencil coat , less is more, hit it 2X if you have to, to get desired coverage.

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