A Joust Restore [Insert catchy title here]

(Topic ID: 221701)

A Joust Restore [Insert catchy title here]

By djblouw

8 months ago

Topic Stats

  • 128 posts
  • 27 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 60 days ago by djblouw
  • Topic is favorited by 31 Pinsiders


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#8 8 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

After unwrapping it, you can tell that it's been in storage for a very long time. The dust that you see is what's left AFTER I cleaned it off at the warehouse to make sure the pf was still in the game. Yeah, it's going to require a lot of cleaning.

First thing was to get into it, since there were no keys included. I had to pop the lock with a screwdriver. The coin door lock will be a different story. Once I got into the cabinet I could unscrew the two side access doors with the boards. But I couldn't reach the under access doors, so I had to pop two more locks. Are there any other games that have 6 locks on them!!

congrats on the grab
however, if you reached out before having using a screwdriver, I could have told you that by drilling out just one of the locks under the cabinet on either of the flip down panels, you could have simply removed the other 5 locks from the inside and saved yourself a ton of grief

#9 8 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

So, if anyone has a spare System 7 MPU, I'd greatly appreciate it.

if you can find anyone that has a set of the MPU and driver boards from pinballpcb.com (now defunct), that's the way to go. really nice replacement boards that eliminated that gawd awful 40-pin interconnect with a simple IDE connector

#14 8 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Yeah, I know. I was thinking of messaging you, but it was a Sunday afternoon, and I didn't want to bug you.

I hope that going forward, no feels that they are "bothering me" if they have a joust related question
heck, I think that I sent hilton (whysnow) a small novel when he mentioned that he was picking one up and needed to "break it down" to fit inside an SUV

#15 8 months ago
Quoted from Whysnow:

I have been looking for some time and have not found one.
Any idea why they closed up shop?

from their webstore:
"Thank you to the pinball community for your support throughout the years. This business started as a part time hobby and grew significantly. Unfortunately, we don't have the time or manpower to continue. It was a personal decision to halt production."

it's really is a shame too. I've replaced all of my original boards years ago with pinballpcb's stuff [the mpu, driver, power, sound and display boards along with the gas plasma displays]. I bagged up all of the originals & carefully stored them away and haven't had so much as a slightest hiccup since

#17 8 months ago

yeah, that huge power inlet hole makes for a nice mouse hole

at least the boards (power and sound) on the P2 side still look nice and clean. transformer sled doesn't look too bad, however I would check that large electrolytic capacitor (I still have no idea why williams decided to paint the wood on their transformer sleds from that era white

#20 8 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

What's the youngest date of any of those quarters?

yeah, good chance of having some silver (1964 and back) quarters in there

#23 8 months ago

if it were me and I was restoring it (period correct), I would just clean it up or repaint that board white again

did yours come with the 2 pieces of 1"x1" square stock that rest in the channels above the playfield? (they prevent any "air balls" from falling into the cabinet if they roll all the way up the aprons
many of the ones that I've seen are missing these (along with the playfield support bar inside the cabinet

if you plan on replacing the playfield plastics with new ones from CPR (once they become available), be aware that williams used a really strong adhesive under those end marquees. I ended up taking a hair dryer (not a heat gun) and slowly warmed up a corner to pry that loose and then continuing to slowly work the rest of the panel off using the heat

after removing it completely, I used goo gone (not goof off!) to strip all of the remaining glue from the routed section. when I put the new plastics on, I didn't even remove the backing paper (since the panel is not backlit) to help keep anything from potentially scratching off the ink

#28 8 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

I couldn't figure out how the support would actually work, so I didn't even try it. I just unplugged everything and took it out.

you lift the playfield from the 1P side (there should be little stickers on the 2 metal "wings" that state [LIFT FROM THIS SIDE ONLY]. under the playfield, near the front edge, you should see a metal bracket that one end of the support bar fits into. the other end slides into a notched out section in the middle of the cabinet directly under the center carriage bolt holding the marquee in place

DO NOT lift from the P2 side wiliams has warned you, heed the advice
why? because the cabling running from the playfield to the boards isn't long enough to allow the playfield to be lifted up from the P2 side (and there is no bracket or notch to hold the playfield support from that side either

the metal bracket under the playfield

w/ the support in place

where the bottom end of the support is placed

backing up to show it all
I love how the stenciled text on my support bar reads: "support bar. do not throw away playfield", instead of "do not throw away playfield support bar."

I don't even know where the wing nuts for my support bar are any more (they might be in the coin box). they were nothing but a pain in the @ss when you're holding the playfield up with one arm and attempting to spin them off to free up the support bar

#32 8 months ago

some of the support bars had a white, vinyl decal wrapped about the bar. when I owned 3 joust machines, at least one was that way but I chose to keep the bare metal stenciled support bar knowing that I would never have to worry about the glue from the decal getting old

#34 8 months ago

I think that you might need to replace that right outlane/kicker rubber. it looks a little loose

on a slightly more serious note, I never really understood why hunter target '2' was a bullseye stand-up but '3' was solid red on both sides

3 weeks later
#44 7 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Finally got the bottom stripped. And I thought classic Bally’s were a chore! I am not excited about putting the wire harnesses back on.
[quoted image]

yeah, williams managed to pack just about every square inch underneath that playfield. fortunately, the topside tears down pretty quickly (it took me about 30-40 mins to completely tear down 1/2 of the playfield in preparation for the CPR repro playfield, although I'm not relishing going through the bottom side

(I remember how much of a pain it was just to get to some of the screws for the drop mechanisms to remove & replace the stickers on the drop down targets

thanks for the photos (I'm not looking forward to re-doing the ground braid, but fortunately there doesn't appear to as much as I feared

2 months later
#92 4 months ago

I was initially thinking of doing the ground braid differently on my new playfield (when I get it), but now I'm thinking why reinvent the wheel, especially since I'm planning on putting in all new lamp sockets

I still would like to find a source for those black oxide #6 x 1/2" pwh (pan-washer head) screws used to secure the 6 brackets (and the ends of the playfield aprons

#95 4 months ago

what's with the transparent red posts on the underside of the playfield?

oh, and here's a tip. install of the metal ball guides (the ones with the rubber sleeves on them) prior to attempting to install the drop bank or stand-up targets. there are at least 2 of them (per side) that are impeded by the brackets holding the 3-bank drops and the stand-up targets and few others that are a lot harder to reach if the larger assemblies are in place already

1 week later
#105 4 months ago

two issues with your rubber rings

the ones behind the 3-bank drops should be in a race track configuration (around those 4 posts). the other post in the back is just there (on some machines) to keep the cross over plastics from sagging

second, the one that you have tying the two posts behind the center stand-up targets should each have their own ring. this prevents undue tension on the wood screws holding them into the playfield

other than that, it looks pretty good (why is your player one ball trough painted white & red?

#108 4 months ago

have fun with getting the flippers to your liking. I took off one side for all of the CPR measurements and I'll be darned if I've gotten them back to exactly the way that they were before

typically, I will use a block of wood or a straight edge so that at rest, the flipper bat follows the same line as the inlane guide

however, on joust that means that the auto launched balls would immediately drain (if not flipped with the left flipper). to counter this, I dropped the resting position of the right flipper just enough so that the launched ball hits the tip and bounces back up the left side in lane. it's not enough to affect how the shots are made, but definitely makes it a bit more fun

#110 4 months ago

do you mean the end pieces? CPR should be offering up complete sets soon along with the playfields. we're currently tweaking the files to make a correction that we noticed when we ran the plastics 4 years ago

1 week later
#124 3 months ago
Quoted from cad-kid:

Wow! It's great the side plastics light up. The whole game looks awesome!

that's the way all of them do. there are 3 bulbs behind that triangular piece of plexi
I've seen a few people dremel out the ends of the cabinets and light up the marquee pieces as well

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