A Joust Restore [Insert catchy title here]

(Topic ID: 221701)

A Joust Restore [Insert catchy title here]


By djblouw

7 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 128 posts
  • 27 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 55 days ago by djblouw
  • Topic is favorited by 31 Pinsiders

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There are 128 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 3.
#51 7 months ago

excited to see this one.

#52 7 months ago
Quoted from rufessor:

Looks awesome. Joust is on my list but its going to have to be a restore candidate like you found. Your making excellent progress. Be sure to stop and enjoy one and a while!
As for the screws that broke and are now stuck. I have an extraction kit and you may find this to be a fairly good solution depending on how far down they broke. What I have is designed mostly for removing stripped screws where you have a bit of the head left. Clearly this is not the case for you but the principal should none the less apply.
My kit consists of the following two pieces you use in series. Step 1 is the take a drill bit with a very shallow taper and cut a cone into the top of the stripped metal. Step 2 is you basically take what amounts to a reverse threaded die and start screwing it into the depression using a power drill in reverse- when the die hits bottom the threads grab and bite the metal and you back the whole thing out.
The issue is going to be two fold- can you actually get anything to hold center on the broken shaft and cut a shallow depression. If you can figure that out your golden and just need to find a small die that matches.
Anyhow- not saying I have done this for a broken screw and it could be extremely difficult given diameter of screw and the fact that you may not be able to hold center. However- you could use an oversize bit (like 1/2 inch) and take the top 1/8 inch of wood off from the screw hole on the underside- that would hold center over the broken shaft and generate a nice cone to grab with the die- if the screw shaft is up that high if the break is down the hole you may be up a creek as you could not do this without damaging the Playfield.
Then its just a matter of filling the small neat 1/2 inch hole and sanding and repainting the underside. I suspect your going to be filling a few damaged spots and painting this anyway so it may be worth a try.
Granted drilling a 1/2 inch bit into the bottom sounds sketchy but with the right bit I really think this could work and its not going to effect anything at all- filling is trivial and you can fill with a compound that will hold the new screw even better than wood if you wanted to so no loss in integrity if this works.
Advice- break a few screws off in a 2x4 and test this method before you try it.
Else maybe someone else stops by with a wiz bang trick and we both learn something new.
Good luck and I hope this makes sense.

That's great advice. Thank you. I had thought about a screw extraction kit, but was concerned the diameter of the remaining screw body would be too small.

The only solution I had come up with is to get a dremel and file a slot in the top of the remaining screw body. Then, potentially I could take it out with a flat head screw driver. However, I think the remaining screw will be too weak, as this is the part that broke, to support any torque.

#53 7 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

I had thought about a screw extraction kit, but was concerned the diameter of the remaining screw body would be too small.

Yeah, a #6 screw is going to be really hard to extract conventionally.

I'd just use a plug extractor, then glue a wood dowel into the hole.

~$10 at Woodcraft or Rockler

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#54 7 months ago

Nice !

Would you like me to place it in our Joust relatedcmachjnes databases?

#55 7 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

Yeah, a #6 screw is going to be really hard to extract conventionally.
I'd just use a plug extractor, then glue a wood dowel into the hole.
~$10 at Woodcraft or Rockler
[quoted image]

Thanks Vid. This will be the route I have to go, since I tried the others tonight and neither worked.

#56 7 months ago
Quoted from lmcdonald111:

Nice !
Would you like me to place it in our Joust relatedcmachjnes databases?

Sure, that would be fine. Send me a link and I can add as much information as needed.

#57 6 months ago

Did not know about the plug extractor. Seems like a great tool- going to have to order a few sizes. I knew someone somewhere would have a solution!

Good luck

#58 6 months ago

So after reading some of the reviews on the plug extractors, I wasn't filled with confidence. I'm sure a large portion of the complaints about them is user error, but I still wasn't excited about it. So a little bit more research yielded a product that had stellar reviews.

Here's one of the switch stack screws that broke off. Every switch had at least on break.

screw before (resized).jpg

The miracle product is called UNSCREW-UMS. Yes, it a corny name. But as long as it works, who cares?

So for $40, I decided to give it a try. It seemed a bit pricey, but if it worked as well as all of the reviews state, it will be worth it.

And here it is after the screw was removed.

Screw after (resized).jpg

The hole is slightly enlarged, but this can easily be filled with bamboo stick, or toothpick. Easy to do.

Here's a look at the product. It comes in multiple sizes. I had to use the smallest size for the switch screw. And see all those screws at the top of the board? Those are from one half of the pf. This product is great!

Wonder tool (resized).jpg

So in summary, get these screw remover bits. They are worth every penny and work great. Follow the instructions and you'll be pleased.

amazon.com link »

#59 6 months ago

Ordered a set bexause I knew that if I did not do so, the next time I went to unscrew a component the screw would break and Karma would screw me.

#60 6 months ago
Quoted from vid1900:

What's the youngest date of any of those quarters?

Oldest coin is 1965. Newest is 1984. So, it seems logical that the game was pulled in 1985.

There was $32.00 in it, plus a couple arcade tokens. That should be enough to buy one flipper rebuild kit. Haha.

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#61 6 months ago

Awesome. Following!

#62 6 months ago

Lower cabinet has a couple new coats of black

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Upper cabinet is getting stripped, ready for paint.

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2 weeks later
#63 6 months ago

So I've been slacking lately and haven't been working on this much. I'd like to blame the weather.

Last night I repainted the underside of the pf. I had previously sanded down some of the areas. Here's half of it painted:

PF underside half done (resized).jpg

And here's the finished product:

PF Underside finished (resized).jpg

I've got a couple of spots to touch up, but this is a good step in getting this back together.

#64 6 months ago

I’m really enjoying this.

Would you be willing to do a story line and send me the step by step pictures.

I’d love to feature this restoration story at Joustmaster.com

#65 6 months ago
Quoted from lmcdonald111:

I’m really enjoying this.
Would you be willing to do a story line and send me the step by step pictures.
I’d love to feature this restoration story at Joustmaster.com

Sure, no problem. One of these days when I have some spare time at work I’ll start putting some stuff together. Maybe when it closer to being finished.

2 weeks later
#66 5 months ago

With the weather starting to cool down, you can tell we're getting much closer to Pinball season. Hopefully this will help get this project back in gear.

I spent last night putting everything through the ultrasonic cleaner. Here's the drop target assemblies.

Cleaning (resized).jpg

#67 5 months ago

As previously mentioned, there were mice in the cabinet. They chewed some wires. So, I spent last night cutting out the chewed sections, and splicing in new wire.

This wire harness was the worst, but could have been uglier. It ended up being about 15 wires that they gnawed on. Now the wire harness is ready to go back into the cabinet.

Hungry Hungry (resized).jpg

#68 5 months ago

Mmm, joust

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#69 5 months ago
Quoted from bangerjay:

Mmm, joust
[quoted image]

such an amazing row of games!!!

#70 5 months ago

what, no Cyclopes?

#71 5 months ago
Quoted from bangerjay:

Mmm, joust
[quoted image]

The backlit marquee looks neat

#72 5 months ago

Lamp harness was next. All the sockets were rusty & corroded, so I replaced them. I spent the better part of Sunday doing this, as there are 30 sockets, which are the 3 tab variety, with a diode across them.

The only ones I didn't replace were the large connected sets. Those got sanded and polished to match up to the new ones.

I'm sick of soldering now. Time to move on to a different part of the game.

Lamp Harness finsihed (resized).jpg

#73 5 months ago

As mentioned, I needed to get away from soldering for a while. So the coin door was my target.

I stripped everything off it, painted, then reassemble. I kept the original operator sticker(s) since I liked the history of the game.

I really liked this wico coin door. This was way easier to take apart and clean then any other bally or wms one I’ve done before. It was simple, and straightforward.

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#74 5 months ago

And here's a before & after pic.

compare (resized).JPG

Okay, back to the wire harnesses now, and more soldering.

#75 5 months ago

Cleaning plastics tonight.

You can see the before and after. They were nasty. There was a film that had to be scrubbed off. It didn’t just “wash” off like normal dirt. This film was also on the pf. Lots of elbow grease going into this.

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#76 5 months ago

Awesome progress

#77 5 months ago

Great job on that coindoor.
It's a pleasure to follow your thread.

#78 5 months ago
Quoted from cad-kid:

Awesome progress

Quoted from g94:

Great job on that coindoor.
It's a pleasure to follow your thread.

Thanks guys.

I got distracted by another project. But I'll be getting back to Joust later this week.

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#79 5 months ago

Ah, what a great day. I got my parts back from being re-zinc plated.

ooooo shiny (resized).jpg

It is fun for me to sort through all the pieces, and look at how well everything freshened up. Its more fun than birthdays. I think I'm going to start celebrating Plating Day from now on. Let the rebuilding begin.

sorted parts (resized).jpg

#80 5 months ago

Looking good. This is a game I would enjoy restoring!

Can you share the zinc replating service and cost to do this for your game. I have looked around a bit and was never quite sure if I wanted to follow through with this and curious to know cost and vendor you selected.

It looks like it may have been a local shop but none the less would like to know as I believe shipping is not probably the expensive part!

#81 5 months ago
Quoted from rufessor:

Looking good. This is a game I would enjoy restoring!
Can you share the zinc replating service and cost to do this for your game. I have looked around a bit and was never quite sure if I wanted to follow through with this and curious to know cost and vendor you selected.

The company that I use just does it as a side project for me, since we do work with them at my regular job.

The cost is about the same as a decent night out for two people.

I've offered a few friends to have their stuff plated if need be--the problem is the shipping will cost about the same as the plating.

#82 5 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

I think I'm going to start celebrating Plating Day from now on

hahaha - I love the concept

#83 4 months ago

I’m polishing the side rails today. The one on the left is mostly done. The right one is what I started with.

I don’t want to bring them to a full polish, as it shows fingerprints too easily. Lockdown bars are next.

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#84 4 months ago

Rebuilt all the mechs today.

Here’s the rollover drop targets, including new decals on the targets and new labels for adjusting the set screw on the underside.

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#85 4 months ago

I see that mirco has new Joust pf's and plastics for sale. While I wasn't planning on dropping another 1350 into this restore, it might be nice to have new pieces.

My current pf is in decent shape. No planking to speak of, but there is ground in dirt/ball swirls and key lining missing on some inserts. The plastics and aprons are unbroken, but still show wear in the usual spots where they contact metal.

So, what's everyone's take on this? Should I keep the originals, as most everything else in the game is original, and have a very nice survivor? Or should I go "all in" and have it look like brand new?

#86 4 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Or should I go "all in" and have it look like brand new?

For this fun and rare pin, I would go all in. I am sure you would get back in your investment as there are not very many of these around. Unlike my F-14 restore which I will never get it back. Other then it's my first and the wife loves it!

#87 4 months ago

I checked your playfield photos posted above. These are very nice originals. They need some love and attention, for sure, but from what I can see the damage is very limited. If it were my playfields, I would fix those insert borders, address the swirl, and have them clearcoated.

Nothing beats an original imho if it is repairable. Replacements only make sense if the damage is beyond repair, or if repairing would cost more than replacing. Just my opinion, of course, because you ask. Obviously it's your game: you decide

#88 4 months ago

Both good opinions. I think going all in would be great, but it'd probably put me way over what I could hope to sell the game for--and I've done that on too many others that I own. haha.

g94, I've seen your playfield restoring--it looks awesome. I wish I had the time to get that involved with this pf.

I'll have to think about it some more, before I make a decision.

#89 4 months ago

your original is a VERY nice example IMHO.

I personally would be sending it to a pro to have touchups and clear done and that would be my choice over buying a reproduction. OG is always better than a reproduction and the various issues that come along with that.

#90 4 months ago

I'll probably stick with the original pf since it is in decent shape. But I love to have everything perfect when I'm done.

In the meantime, I finished the upper cabinet (sans wiring). I've got a couple pieces left for the lower cabinet, and then I can put them together again.

Minty Fresh Upper Cab (resized).jpg

1 week later
#91 4 months ago

Lamp braid in place, brackets re-installed, t-nuts replaced. It took twice as long as it should have, as my stapler was acting up--I'm not sure I've ever used a stapler that behaves properly.

Wired for light (resized).jpg

#92 4 months ago

I was initially thinking of doing the ground braid differently on my new playfield (when I get it), but now I'm thinking why reinvent the wheel, especially since I'm planning on putting in all new lamp sockets

I still would like to find a source for those black oxide #6 x 1/2" pwh (pan-washer head) screws used to secure the 6 brackets (and the ends of the playfield aprons

#93 4 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I was initially thinking of doing the ground braid differently on my new playfield (when I get it), but now I'm thinking why reinvent the wheel, especially since I'm planning on putting in all new lamp sockets
I still would like to find a source for those black oxide #6 x 1/2" pwh (pan-washer head) screws used to secure the 6 brackets (and the ends of the playfield aprons

I had the same thought to re-route the lamp braids, but came to the same conclusion. There is enough other stuff going on with the underside, I didn't want to inadvertently create more work for myself down the road.

I couldn't find a good replacement screw, so I soaked mine in evaporust, put in the tumbler, and then repainted them. Now, they're better than new.

#94 4 months ago

Lamp harness in place. Everything went where it was supposed to.

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#95 4 months ago

what's with the transparent red posts on the underside of the playfield?

oh, and here's a tip. install of the metal ball guides (the ones with the rubber sleeves on them) prior to attempting to install the drop bank or stand-up targets. there are at least 2 of them (per side) that are impeded by the brackets holding the 3-bank drops and the stand-up targets and few others that are a lot harder to reach if the larger assemblies are in place already

#96 4 months ago
Quoted from j_m_:

what's with the transparent red posts on the underside of the playfield?
oh, and here's a tip. install of the metal ball guides (the ones with the rubber sleeves on them) prior to attempting to install the drop bank or stand-up targets. there are at least 2 of them (per side) that are impeded by the brackets holding the 3-bank drops and the stand-up targets and few others that are a lot harder to reach if the larger assemblies are in place already

The star posts are spacers under the main display driver board. I don't have the other two on there yet, as they get in the way.

Awesome tip on the ball guide install. I usually have to find out the hard way.

If everything keeps progressing at this pace, I should be able to power the game on around Thanksgiving. Sweeeeeeet.

#97 4 months ago

So, now I have a hot mess going on. All three harnesses are on (lamp, switch, solenoid).

I’ve populated the top side, as needed to make life easier. Now the mechs will be placed on, and test fit and function.

5BEED051-734A-454B-A9B7-CA8B781ADC3C (resized).jpeg

#98 4 months ago

Nice progress

#99 4 months ago
Quoted from djblouw:

So, now I have a hot mess going on. All three harnesses are on (lamp, switch, solenoid).
I’ve populated the top side, as needed to make life easier. Now the mechs will be placed on, and test fit and function.
[quoted image]

Looks to be coming along nicely.

#100 4 months ago

Mechs all in place. I have a little soldering to do, but the underside is starting to get close to the finish.

DF003F2C-96B3-4017-8C32-321E66B7546C (resized).jpeg

2DB546B4-9F23-48F9-AF6E-AE9091DE49ED (resized).jpeg

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