(Topic ID: 102068)

A good first EM to learn how to work on them

By DirtFlipper

9 years ago


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Topic Stats

  • 28 posts
  • 12 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 9 years ago by Chrisbee
  • Topic is favorited by 1 Pinsider

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#1 9 years ago

I just finished up a semi-rebuild/shop job on a Gottlieb King Pin, and it occurred to me that this title would make a pretty good candidate for anyone who wanted to dive in and learn how to restore/work on EMs.

- They made a lot of them, and tend to pop up with some frequency.
- They tend to be a less expensive game to acquire.
- They tend to have playfield wear and backglass flaking, so there's opportunity to test those restoration skills, but not worry too much about messing up; I think the backglass is due to be repro'd though.
- The mechanics are pretty simple and sparse. The score motor board has just a row of relays (not a flip bank), and only one interlock relay (pre-cursor to the AX relay, but a bit easier to adjust). The backbox just has the four score reels, a Ball Count unit and a Credit unit for steppers. The playfield has only two pops, one 10-target bank, and the four flippers. So there's a good sampling of the different types of assemblies, but not a huge amount. Heck, there are only two sizes of ring posts used (8 of one and 11 of the other; hard to mess up).
- Parts are plentiful.
- The gameplay is pretty fun.

Overall there's not much to the logic of the game, so tracking down issues and learning the schematic is easier. No player units, bonus units, lots of interlock relays and other stuff that gets more time-consuming.

I'm sure there are other titles that are similar in nature, but this one has a nice sampling of mechanics to try.

Just thought I'd mention it in case folks were contemplating where to start with EMs.

Easy PeasyEasy Peasy

#2 9 years ago

This one is for sale isn't it Dirt? Looks like fun for newbie or veteran...

Along the same lines. I was surprised at the simplicity of the internals on Drop-A-Card when I had it. That would also be a good one for a first timer, aside from the 2" flippers that not everyone is a fan of.

#3 9 years ago

This is true about any 70's era Williams or Bally single player. There are many (not me) that think it is easier to work on a Bally or Williams game due to their simpler relay and score reel designs. So, when starting out, it may be a bit easier to begin with one of them as opposed to a Gottlieb. Just like you stated about the King Pin, the backglasses are often flaking, they often get no love among other collectors (certainly not any of the Gottlieb snobs LOL), but are still fun to play. Many of the later years are even DC and really kick A$$. And, unlike a Gottlieb single player, are usually adjustable from Add-A-Ball to replay or both without having to own a different game.

Certainly, as you pointed out, it is probably a good idea NOT to start to learn your EM repair skills on a Multiplayer machine if you can help it.

#4 9 years ago

Any EM one-player Gottlieb or Williams is a great game to start with. Simple games, easy to work on.

I'd avoid late 60s Ballys as they have bizarre logic and even worse "clutch" assemblies on their score motors.

#5 9 years ago

My all time fav as a teener from the 70's! I have the AAB Pin Up, which soon enough there will be a repro BG.

#6 9 years ago
Quoted from AlexF:

This one is for sale isn't it Dirt?

It will be, yes (still need to make score/instruction cards, and play, er, test it more).

And yes, there are other single-player titles and other brands that one could explore. But parts for Gottliebs are very plentiful, and the Wms/Bly titles don't pop up as often. And the later titles have more 'stuff' in them, which can be more difficult.

I was just noting that as an on-ramp to working on EMs, this one had a good sampling of parts, and was pretty simple (lots of room to work on). And it's not a title one has to worry too much about botching (although it is darn fun to wail away at the drop targets with the two mini-flippers).

#7 9 years ago
Quoted from CrazyLevi:

Any EM one-player Gottlieb

I second this! Any wedgie is an amazing game to learn on. And they are a blast to play. And when you run into problems, there is a great community here to help you out (like they helped me out, and I'm sure countless others that caught the EM bug).

#8 9 years ago

There are probably more people familiar with Gottlieb EM's that can give help and advice here. Who collects Bally/Williams EM's anyway?

#9 9 years ago
Quoted from woz:

There are probably more people familiar with Gottlieb EM's that can give help and advice here. Who collects Bally/Williams EM's anyway?

Me.

#10 9 years ago

I love mine.

question. my drops dont always reset. ive cleaned the mech and adjusted the coil throw.
im about to replace all the springs. am I missing something obvious

--Jeff

#11 9 years ago
Quoted from way2wyrd:

I love mine.
question. my drops dont always reset. ive cleaned the mech and adjusted the coil throw.
im about to replace all the springs. am I missing something obvious
--Jeff

Your 2 bank reset coils need to be "balanced" when they fire since each provides 50% of the power to reset all the drops at once. These are 110V with separate fuses. I usually clean or replace the coil sleeves, coil stop, etc., so those are good and check the rest of the mechanism. Unsolder your leads to the coils and check them with a meter to make sure they're good. Also, the contacts on the score motor that fire the coils are important too to make sure they're clean and adjusted properly. You'll just have to look at the circuit at the bottom of the schematic where the 110V is and trace it to the right to see what else it goes through too. There's also a spring which attaches to the rod at the end of the bank - check that too. There's a few things you can check.

A clean drop target bank with new springs would be nice too!

King Pin is a great game and dirt is right - it's one of the easier ones to work on.

#12 9 years ago

That's a big target bank. I know on Gold Strike there are two coils to reset the large bank and each has their own fuse. I'm not sure if that is the case with King Pin but with one blown fuse I think you would have this issue.

Edit: Better said by Hoov...

#13 9 years ago

yes, King Pin does have two reset coils for the bank, and if one coil isn't firing, then the bank won't be able to reset (the score motor will just keep running, and the bank reset will keep firing, but the drops won't make it up and over the edge).

The two fuse holders are ganged together end-to-end though, and there's one wire and a solder bridge to connect the holders together. That can be a weak point, and it might "look" good, but be broken there. That will take out one coil from firing. Just one more thing to check.

#14 9 years ago

I don’t know how King Pin’s bank reset is controlled, but as Hoov mentioned above I had a problem with a couple of small banks not fully resting on a High Hand that turned out to be the bank reset switches on the score motor needing a good cleaning/adjusting.

On a side note, my limited experience has been all Gottlieb and I just started working on my first Williams game…it’s a pitch and bat…but I must admit that I like the Williams horizontal switch stacks better than Gottlieb vertical ones. Much easier to see, clean, and adjust in my opinion.

#15 9 years ago

both coils on mine are firing and balanced. new sleeves and plungers clean

score motor switch cleaned and gapped

spring will go in this weekend and ill update

#16 9 years ago
Quoted from way2wyrd:

both coils on mine are firing and balanced. new sleeves and plungers clean
score motor switch cleaned and gapped
spring will go in this weekend and ill update

How about the tension from the switches on the target lifters? Have they been degreased (they get these black stripes on them) and then maybe a touch of SuperLube? If they press up hard against the target lifters, that can prevent them resetting sometimes.

But when it doesn't reset, is it the whole bank (all the targets), or just some of them?

If it's the whole bank, then I'd still suspect something that would affect all at once, like the plunger travel, one coil not energizing, etc. If one of the fuses is a bit loose, that could intermittently take out one coil (for example).

#17 9 years ago

I messed with this set of drops too (way2wyrd's king pin)- it was a little perplexing. One question I had is how to adjust them properly. There is obviously more than one position to mount the coils and I can't say we tried every combination.

#18 9 years ago
Quoted from btw75:

I messed with this set of drops too (way2wyrd's king pin)- it was a little perplexing. One question I had is how to adjust them properly. There is obviously more than one position to mount the coils and I can't say we tried every combination.

Here's one suggested way:
http://user.xmission.com/~daina/tips/pub/tip0435.html

#19 9 years ago

And another variation (but basically the same thing):
https://www.flippers.com/got-tips.html#drop

#20 9 years ago

Exactly what I was looking for. I think I even checked the parts manual for a factory adjustment method.

#21 9 years ago

That's good to know.......

#22 9 years ago

Does your drop target bank still have those little black bumpers at the end of the slots for the target lift finger? If so, they harden with age and make it impossible for the unit to reset all the targets properly, especially on the large count target banks. You have 3 choices: Remove them (Gottlieb eliminated them in later model games), use a needle file to file some of the bumper away to increase the stop distance of the lift finger, see if Steve at Pinball Resource sells replacments.

If you do remove them, then make sure you follow the instructions posted above for proper reset coil placement. You don't want the targets being rammed up so high as to break off the tabs on their bottoms.

#23 9 years ago

Ok went and dounle checked

fueses -- Checked with dmm and snug and clean
no rubber bumpers
score motor switch cleaned again

im going to do the adjustment and then we will see where were at

--Jeff

#24 9 years ago

OK adjustment done and we're better. The bank resets most of the time and there are a couple of drops that dont quite make it. I can work on that. I think some of teh switches need to be degreased like dirt said

This is much better than it trying to reset over and over with no drops catching

Thanks

--Jeff

#25 9 years ago

Just a shame that Gottlieb Schematics are not available on IPDB. When you get a newbie issue its so much more fun when you got the schematic to help with.

#26 9 years ago
Quoted from Chrisbee:

Just a shame that Gottlieb Schematics are not available on IPDB. When you get a newbie issue its so much more fun when you got the schematic to help with.

I'm just thankful they are all available. If I owned the rights to them I wouldn't give them away either. Parts manuals though I think I would post...

#27 9 years ago
Quoted from btw75:

If I owned the rights to them I wouldn't give them away either.

Fair enough, but I think it is a dbl edged sword.

See, With communities like Pinside keeping more machines alive with the aid of Techs all over the world working together, there are more machines needing parts. More parts means happy retailer.

And I’m not about to buy 500 schematic so I can help!!!

Bally, Williams and others manufactures schematic are freely available, does not seem to have been any issue there.

The last time a purchased a Gottlieb schematic (CE3K), it came on a ½ size sheet, near on useless.

#28 9 years ago
Quoted from Chrisbee:

Fair enough, but I think it is a dbl edged sword.
See, With communities like Pinside keeping more machines alive with the aid of Techs all over the world working together, there are more machines needing parts. More parts means happy retailer.
And I’m not about to buy 500 schematic so I can help!!!
Bally, Williams and others manufactures schematic are freely available, does not seem to have been any issue there.
The last time a purchased a Gottlieb schematic (CE3K), it came on a ½ size sheet, near on useless.

EDIT - Having said this, If you own the machine, then i would recommend getting a full size schematic, $20 well spent.
PS i just looked at my CE3k schematic , think its only 1/4 size, Useless

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