The 10 point switch is behind the angled rubber near green goblin.

For the high score problem, Which version of code do you have in the game?

For the ball draining problem, go into switch test and see if the trough switches are seeing the balls.

It's on page 56 in the VE manual, switch 14. Also on page 14 (switch matrix) and 15 (diagram of switch locations). Your 2007 should have the same information but could be on different pages. If you want to download the vault edition manual, Stern has it on their website.
The switch alert comes up if the switch hasn't been hit in a while. If it works in switch test but reappears after 'a while' there is probably nothing wrong with it.

Installing the latest code (or re-installing) will probably fix your high score issue. Good luck finding it. IPDB doesn't have it. Stern recently redid their website and the archive doesn't have the original Spider-Man on it. The VE code would probably work but it's got different call-outs and animations.

This should be the SM code:

https://sternpinball.com/support/game-code/

smcode (resized).JPG

The balls could be magnetized. Try swapping them out with new balls to see if it fixes the problem. If that doesn't help, you may have a divot in the trough that is causing the hangups. If this is the case, you will need to sand it down with a Dremel or some other similar tool.

For the high score issue, maybe just try resetting the high score table first? Under Resets in the Service Menu. See if that has an effect before reloading the game code. Also, the VE code probably won't work in the original 2007 game because of the VE S.A.M. board's larger memory size. That was the case with Iron Man, pretty sure it applies to SM also. You'll need the 2007 code if you go that route.

Carbon steel is generally the best choice for games with magnets. They can become magnetized, but they are much less susceptible than chrome balls. These are the ones I currently have in my Spider-Man ...

https://ballbaron.com/product/pinball-carbon/

In my games without magnets, I use these ...

https://ballbaron.com/product/ninja-super-shiny-chrome-pinball-g10/

I'll second Ball Baron. They have probably the best looking/performing carbon steels available. Less than a buck apiece.

If resetting the high scores doesn't work, I'm wondering about removing the CPU board's button-cell backup battery with the game off, waiting a half-hour and then reinstalling? That's been known to solve a few SPIKE system issues, no idea about a SAM board or if that's even a good idea to do on that board (anyone else?)

If you re-install game code, keep in mind all your game adjustments revert back to factory settings. Meaning you'll need to re-enable free play, adjust game volume, etc.

If the game is randomly ending balls in play sometimes, check the ball trough opto. One side has 2 prong connector, the other has 3. Usually it's the 2 prong side that becomes loose and intermittent as a result. Take that connector off, bend the two prongs slightly further apart, then put the connector back on

Given your comment below regarding re-installing game code, could you explain the purpose of the battery and what you think might happen by leaving it out for a bit?

It should let any corrupted CMOS data (possibly affecting H/S's) held by that battery when the game's powered off "die out."

There's a recent thread here somewhere about where temporary battery removal instantly fixed a SPIKE pin that wouldn't take ANY code updates, I forget which game. A similar [non-update related] case or two with Bally/Williams WPC as well.

That's where the idea's from -- a possible quicker alternative to a complete code re-flash.

And, of course, there's always the factory reset in the menu (that would've been my other suggestion) . . .

Can you take some video of the sequence? Also, does it skip it when you manually advance the attract mode with the flippers (forward AND backwards)?

Contact Stern. Their customer service is excellent, and they may have a solution.

Make sure the chips are fully inserted in the sockets on the board.

Also, it could help us help you if you post a video of the display as it cycles through the scores.

You need to upload the video on a site like youtube or vimeo.

It appears you have a ColorDMD. Could this problem be something related to that?

I just sent Dmod a PM to see what he thinks.

I just remembered something, SM requires a newer version of ColorDMD than the original versions of the system. I don't know if yours would be working at all if it did not have the required version, but I just thought I would bring it up in case.

Check to see if your ColorDMD has the REV 1.3B ColorDMD controller board.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/colordmd-game-40-along-came-a-spider

HIGH SCORE 3 not showing up was due to a bug in an early version of the CHROMA bootloader that caused one sector of data of the color ROM to not be installed properly. Please send an email to [email protected] and we can provide an update.

Glad you posted the video so we knew it was a ColorDMD and not a factory DMD. Definitely a colorDMD issue.

A shout-out and some up votes to DCFAN , who called it way back in post 22 before any video was posted. Good eye and memory!

I'm just getting Locating Pinballs when I hit start on my SM 2007 pin. I did a trough coil test and it was fine, found and ejected a ball. I tried to install a new shaker motor and this started right afterwards.
Any ideas? Should I try new balls. Thanks in advance.

Does it show all the balls in the trough on screen? Remove all the balls, then set up the trough test and drop one ball in the trough at a time and make sure all positions register.

Also, have you changed the batteries? Leaking batteries in the backbox can really mess up a circuit board and I think the switch matrix chips are the area below that could be damaged, which would cause weird behavior like you describe.

I agree with Pinmonk:

Ball test is your friend here. It's common to have the optos that check if a ball is stacked to have bad connections, this should be obvious in ball test if you wiggle the wires with no balls. It's also common for the black microswitches to need adjustment.

This is a Stern pinball, and the battery won't be a concern. It really, really, really would be a concern if this was a 90's model from Williams Bally. (grins).