(Topic ID: 163372)

A Boob Job: A Jacks Open Restoration Wiki

By beelzeboob

7 years ago


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#30 7 years ago

You can use a satin spray clear coat after you are finished painting. It will even out the sheen regardless of which type of paint, gloss, semi gloss, etc. that you use for your stencil colors. So this leaves you free to select the best color match without worrying about the sheen of the selected paint.

#46 7 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Any recommendation on brand for satin clear coat? Just go with Rustoleum?

I would stick with the same manufacturer as your other paint if possible. However, I have used krylon satin clear in the past with good results, even over rustoleum. The one thing to watch out for is not putting the first coat on too heavy. I have had my paint bubble when applying the clear too heavy. Lesson learned... Test it out on the backbox top, which is kind of out of sight and is easy to redo if necessary.

Also, do not use the Krylon Low Odor, that stuff sucks, it leaves a white residue and looks like crap.

#48 7 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Well...that's a problem. I used Rustoleum for the white, but am using Krylon for the stencil colors.
Crap.

i would still go with the Krylon, just test it on the top of the backbox first, which is rustoleum. It should be ok.

#51 7 years ago
Quoted from Topcard:

Since newbies may be reading this thread, I would caution against sanding off the paint as it could contain lead. Lead was only outlawed in homes in 1978 and continued in commercial use for some time after that. There are some very cheap, eco friendly orange strippers that do a great job removing most of the paint.

I agree. The one thing though, is that if the wood is delaminating at all, using a stripper can exacerbate the delamination. Just something to be aware of. If you have a solid cabinet, by all means strip the paint off as much as possible.

#53 7 years ago

And thanks for always making me laugh, beelzeboob!

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