Looking good Boobster! It's pretty cool how well that Sealcoat stuff works. After running your finger across it, it's so smooooooooth. Though beware you'll still need to Bondo any micro-cracks/splits in the wood which are easy to miss sometimes.

If you use Montana rattle cans, stick with the Montana White line.

Montana Black is too matte and is like flat latex paint in terms of dirt resistance. Which is basically none.

Don't overlook Liquitex cans. They're good too. Only limitation is the lack of whites... couldn't find a close enough match for a base white.

No worries... VECTOR already has a space set aside for ya.

For cleaning wires I just go over them with an alcohol-soaked toothbrush. Switch contacts get swabbed with Q-tip and alcohol, polished with Dremel 443 brush, and Q-tip swab w/alcohol again as a final cleaning step.

I always remove the screws & switch stacks from relays before cleaning and polishing them. Makes it easier to inspect every solder joint and check for loose contacts. Also avoids bending switches & easier to ensure everything is polished and cleaned in there. Perhaps not technically necessary but a good peace of mind thing.

Nope. For relays I just remove the screws so I can move the switch blades out of the ladder and get between the contacts more easily.

Looking very nice Boob... BTW regarding HSA have you decided which finish to go with? Although he offers a matte clear finish, I personally prefer the pop and reflectivity of regular gloss finish... even for EM's. Once you get a game repainted, metals polished, etc. it just looks fantastic.