Looking good Boobster! It's pretty cool how well that Sealcoat stuff works. After running your finger across it, it's so smooooooooth. Though beware you'll still need to Bondo any micro-cracks/splits in the wood which are easy to miss sometimes.
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Looking good Boobster! It's pretty cool how well that Sealcoat stuff works. After running your finger across it, it's so smooooooooth. Though beware you'll still need to Bondo any micro-cracks/splits in the wood which are easy to miss sometimes.
Quoted from beelzeboob:That's a good idea, but I won't have that option when stenciling. You have to remove the stencils within 10 minutes of spraying, so there's no chance of a second coat.
I'll look into the Montana colors, although I don't think I can get them around by me. I might have to look into Rustoleum or just go with the Krylon.
If you use Montana rattle cans, stick with the Montana White line.
Montana Black is too matte and is like flat latex paint in terms of dirt resistance. Which is basically none.
Don't overlook Liquitex cans. They're good too. Only limitation is the lack of whites... couldn't find a close enough match for a base white.
No worries... VECTOR already has a space set aside for ya.
For cleaning wires I just go over them with an alcohol-soaked toothbrush. Switch contacts get swabbed with Q-tip and alcohol, polished with Dremel 443 brush, and Q-tip swab w/alcohol again as a final cleaning step.
I always remove the screws & switch stacks from relays before cleaning and polishing them. Makes it easier to inspect every solder joint and check for loose contacts. Also avoids bending switches & easier to ensure everything is polished and cleaned in there. Perhaps not technically necessary but a good peace of mind thing.
Nope. For relays I just remove the screws so I can move the switch blades out of the ladder and get between the contacts more easily.
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