(Topic ID: 163372)

A Boob Job: A Jacks Open Restoration Wiki


By beelzeboob

3 years ago



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  • Latest reply 16 days ago by Silverstreak02
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There are 110 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 3.
#1 3 years ago

Prologue: First Things First

And for my final restoration thread, I'll be crapping all over the EM side of the forum while I struggle to restore a Jacks Open back to its better-than-original glory. I'm calling this thread a Wiki because since this is my first EM restoration I'll have questions that many noobs would have and they can use this thread as a reference. (And a lot of my questions will be REALLY stupid...just check out the second post in this thread for proof.) I'm asking anybody and everybody with knowledge about EMs to chime in and contribute. That's the only way I'll learn!

But first things first: My apologies to purists. A while back, I asked about doing a full restoration on EMs vs. doing touchups and trying to keep original paint. There were valid and passionate arguments for each side, but with this game, I fear I have to do a full restoration on everything, which you'll understand when you see the condition of the cabinet. There's a hole in the side with a dowel jammed in there that has to be knocked out and filled with fiberglass, tons of deep scratches everywhere, and a corner of the backbox that's mangled.

I'll be asking A LOT of questions along the way so as to avoid unnecessary f**k ups, and again it's my fervent hope that others that come after me get a lot of questions answered in their first restoration and get turned on to EMs the way I've been. Many thanks to Nico Volta, Boilerman, and Steve at PBR for their offers of advice, support and help. I'll need it!

Here are pictures of the game as it stands now, and the first stupid questions will follow shortly:

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#2 3 years ago

Here are some playfield shots:

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#3 3 years ago

...and now for some stupid questions before I rip this thing apart:

1. There are a lot of labels stapled in various places around this game. Is there anybody who makes reproductions of these like they do for DMD machines? Or do I have to try to restore the original paper and restaple it back where it was?

2. Are there any other parts of the machine that are absolutely not replaceable that I have to be extremely careful in handling?

The tear-down will commence in about 10 days and the cabinet should move pretty quickly from that point.

I'm about to learn a whole lot about how this s**t is put together...and I'm keeping a fire extinguisher nearby at all times.

(I know...no steel wool and no wet contact cleaner when you turn it on. Any other cautions or fire hazards?)

#4 3 years ago

Remember kids. This game (and thread) Are for amusement only.

#5 3 years ago

You know I'll be visiting this often because you have a very entertaining way about you.
So let the fun begin!
Mike

#6 3 years ago
Quoted from Grizlyrig:

You know I'll be visiting this often because you have a very entertaining way about you.

Yes...in a self-deprecating way. At least I know when I'm a moron.

#7 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

...and now for some stupid questions before I rip this thing apart:
1. There are a lot of labels stapled in various places around this game. Is there anybody who makes reproductions of these like they do for DMD machines? Or do I have to try to restore the original paper and restaple it back where it was?
2. Are there any other parts of the machine that are absolutely not replaceable that I have to be extremely careful in handling?
The tear-down will commence in about 10 days and the cabinet should move pretty quickly from that point.
I'm about to learn a whole lot about how this s**t is put together...and I'm keeping a fire extinguisher nearby at all times.
(I know...no steel wool and no wet contact cleaner when you turn it on. Any other cautions or fire hazards?)

Keep all the original paperwork!! Most collectors prefer…..

#8 3 years ago

Since this is your first time, you should treat every part as if it were irreplaceable.
Take a lot of photos as you break down the machine. I guarantee that you will be going back to reference them when you go to put it back together.
Buy a box of gallon and quart size ziplock bags. Put all screws associated with each part in bags with parts. Label.

Most important, get to know Steve Young, because he will become your new best friend.

#9 3 years ago

Take lots of pictures from EVERY angle of EVERYTHING in various stages of disassembly, and then take some more! Inevitably there will be that one screw you can't see in your pics that you wish you had taken one more picture of.

#10 3 years ago

Less crassness and vulgarity is appreciated in the em section.
Good luck with the resto, one of my favorite pins hands down.

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

... for my final restoration thread, ...

Why is this your final restoration?!?

#12 3 years ago
Quoted from presqueisle:

Less crassness and vulgarity is appreciated in the em section.
Good luck with the resto, one of my favorite pins hands down.

I might be in the wrong place, then...but I do self-censor, at least. And thanks for the well wishes!

Quoted from EvanDickson:

Why is this your final restoration?!?

My last thread about a restoration, not my last restoration. I'll need the help of the EM community to get through this one and learn about all the moving parts, but posting restoration threads does kind of take the fun out of doing them. There's too much pressure for updates and I'm a really busy guy - I'd rather just do them on my own schedule and for enjoyment.

#13 3 years ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Why is this your final restoration?!?

Even he has a level of embarrassment that can be reached.

#14 3 years ago
Quoted from Taxman:

Even he has a level of embarrassment that can be reached.

Stalker.

#15 3 years ago

leave the dowel if it is glued if not glue it. it is better to fill these large holes with wood VS a filler like bondo.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

leave the dowel if it is glued if not glue it. it is better to fill these large holes with wood VS a filler like bondo.

I'll have to look...not sure it's glued. The problem is (as you can see in the picture with the chimes...it's right above them), the dowel is sticking out into the inside of the cabinet about a 1/2-3/4". I'll have to either hacksaw it off or knock it out, cut it to size, and glue it back in.

I have U-Pol Fibral Lite fiberglass filler. I was going to drill small holes around the inside of that circle for the paste to grip, then fill it up and flatten it out. Not a good idea?

Same principal when I fix the crapped up corner of the backbox, which is what I've done on past restorations.

#17 3 years ago

you can just cut it simi flush, when you sand the cab you will level it out and fill in the gap with a filler. dowels are just an easy fast way to fill a hole. filler is messy when you try to fill large holes.
I keep a few sizes of dowels to fill holes when I do the cabinets.
on the edges of the head that is all torn up. first work some wood glue under all the loose edges so the a held down. you might need to shoot a staple or two into the edge to hold it while it dries, they can be pulled out when the glue dries.
once the glue dries you can build up the edge with the filler of your choice

#18 3 years ago

I heard there was a shortage of crassness and vulgarity round these parts.
I'm here to help ma'am.
Boob you do realize sophmore albums always suck...??

#19 3 years ago
Quoted from presqueisle:

Less crassness and vulgarity is appreciated in the em section.
Good luck with the resto, one of my favorite pins hands down.

Basically, he is saying, "Drop the vernacular"

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

I heard there was a shortage of crassness and vulgarity round these parts.
I'm here to help ma'am.
Boob you do realize sophmore albums always suck...??

Nah...I respect others' right to have a relatively clean thread. I'll try to keep it clean in here, although I AM a foul-mouthed little pecker.

Oops! There I go again...

Besides, I really WILL need the help of the EM community on this one, so I'm not out to piss anybody off.

I don't really understand it, though: O-din is one of the biggest personalities here on the EM side...and also one of the most offensive. (But hilarious!)

#21 3 years ago
Quoted from Mikala:

Basically, he is saying, "Drop the vernacular"

The vernacular. That's in the testicles, isn't it?

You know...eventually this restoration thread will get off the ground. I just have to get back from vacation first!

#22 3 years ago

Will there be any Slayer in this thread ?

#23 3 years ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Will there be any Slayer in this thread ?

No Slayer for you!

We want this to be a smooth restoration thread. Possibly some Barry White...

#24 3 years ago

I thought this was going to be a thread about modifying the backglass of a Jacks Open the way Clay "fixed" his Jumping Jack:

#25 3 years ago

I just recovered from your AFM thread and now another one?!

Quoted from EvanDickson:Why is this your final restoration?!?

Why can't this be your last? Is there no end to masochism? I can't help myself but to follow along and watch the inevitable train wreck that is about to happen. My condolences to Jacks Open. It deserves much better.

#26 3 years ago

Chapter One: The Tear-Down

Okay, so the tear-down is never the most interesting part of any restoration thread, but you've gotta do it in order to get to the interesting stuff. This took me a leisurely 3 hours (much shorter than doing a DMD game!), and here's what I love about working with EMs already: just take out a couple of screws, and the guts just lift out of the back box and cabinet. (After detaching a few other things first.) Here's what I hate about EMs: slotted screws. When you're not used to using them, your hand keeps slipping out of the slot and makes you feel like a complete moron. And I don't need any help with that.

I also spent a few hours yesterday driving up to Pinball Resource in Poughkeepsie to get a bunch of parts from Steve Young and pick his brain on a few things. Great guy, and I'm grateful for the time he gave me.

And now to the good stuff. Short, boring, but let's get it over with.

All screws and hardware were bagged and tagged. Labels were removed carefully with a industrial staple remover so that they can be reattached or reproduced faithfully. (I haven't decided which, yet!)

Here's the cabinet before being gutted:

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Here's the worst mushrooming I've ever seen on a shooter rod:

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I'll have to regrain and de-scuzz the lockdown bar and lockdown receiver, but I decided to replace the yucky side rails. So I didn't have to be too careful about removing them, but I found that with a chisel or staple remover to lift the nail up slightly, it was easy to use a pair of Vampliers to twist the nail out once you could get some purchase on them. I've said it before and I'll say it again: Vampliers are worth every penny and essential at some point in every restoration.

Here's the stripped cabinet, ready for sanding:

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One more thing before I sign off on this step - I noticed one area that I needed to measure because it doesn't fall under the auspices of stenciling for this game. If you're going to restore a JO, you have to make sure you know the measurement on this painted section beneath the back box. And if you forget, I just did it for you!:

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Hey...it just occurred to me...maybe I should just call this thread "A JO Restores a JO." Fitting, no?

#28 3 years ago

Before my next update, a word about cabinet color. This was asked about in another thread, and I'll copy this info over there. I sprayed some Rustoleum 2x Heirloom White (satin) on a bare piece of wood and let it dry. I then held it up against various spots that had been protected by large parts for nearly 40 years, so there was no fading or discoloration. I took pictures in sunlight and in shade. I think you can see that the match is nearly spot on, so that's the color I'm going with.

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#29 3 years ago

And now for a question for the EM masses:

My research has found that Krylon Banner Red is the preferred red color for a Jacks Open cabinet. But that color only seems to come in gloss. I'm spaying the cabinet in satin, and I originally wanted to do all the colors in satin. Is this wrong? Now I'm thinking that doing gloss stencils over the top of a satin base will actually make it look almost like it's decaled, which could be pretty cool.

What's are people's thoughts on this? Is there another red I should use instead, and should I stick with satin or go with gloss?

Thanks in advance...

#30 3 years ago

You can use a satin spray clear coat after you are finished painting. It will even out the sheen regardless of which type of paint, gloss, semi gloss, etc. that you use for your stencil colors. So this leaves you free to select the best color match without worrying about the sheen of the selected paint.

#31 3 years ago

If you want it to look like it's decaled, go with the gloss. If you want it to look original, find a satin that matches. FWIW I've seen it done with both and the gloss looks unnatural, but to each his own.

#32 3 years ago

Just found this thread when I checked pinside without being logged in (I have the EM section blocked).
Looking forward to following the progression, seems as though there will be less ball busting in this thread than the AFM one.

Keep it up Boob, and please document all your restorations.

#33 3 years ago

Nothing but constructive criticism over here.

#34 3 years ago
Quoted from cosmokramer:

(I have the EM section blocked).

Out of curiosity, why?

#35 3 years ago
Quoted from JoeNewberry:

Out of curiosity, why?

Nothing personal, I have tried and tried (and tried) to have some sort of interest in EM games but I just cant get excited or interested in them. I do play them at the pinball museum in Banning and at the PHOF (and have owned several) but rarely can I get through a whole game.

#36 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Nothing but constructive criticism over here.

I like the change...

#37 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I also spent a few hours yesterday driving up to Pinball Resource in Poughkeepsie to get a bunch of parts from Steve Young and pick his brain on a few things.

Seriously? You came here and didn't call me? WTF Boobie? ???

#38 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinterest:

Seriously? You came here and didn't call me? WTF Boobie? ???

I didn't know you lived up that way. Everything in New York is just ... New York. I'm jealous that you live so close to PBR...you should probably get into EMs more.

Quoted from cosmokramer:

Nothing personal, I have tried and tried (and tried) to have some sort of interest in EM games but I just cant get excited or interested in them. I do play them at the pinball museum in Banning and at the PHOF (and have owned several) but rarely can I get through a whole game.

I never had any interest in EMs until recently. My first machine was WOZ, and I've been working my way backward through pinball history. I'm up to 1977 now, and I don't see any stopping in my retrogression.

Here's the great thing about EMs: The newer faster games are great until you've had a few too many drinks (which I don't do, but my wife has to be married to me, so she likes to drink). Then, the slower pace is perfect! It's also great not to have a ruleset that reads like a novel.

#39 3 years ago
Quoted from MikeO:

Nothing but constructive criticism over here.

Why? ???

#40 3 years ago
Quoted from Noobee:

You can use a satin spray clear coat after you are finished painting. It will even out the sheen regardless of which type of paint, gloss, semi gloss, etc. that you use for your stencil colors. So this leaves you free to select the best color match without worrying about the sheen of the selected paint.

Any recommendation on brand for satin clear coat? Just go with Rustoleum?

#41 3 years ago

EM owners are a product of their time. (i.e.: they're oooooold... )

PS - I'm 51, so I could go any day myself.

#42 3 years ago

Chapter Two: The Cabinet
Part One: Cabinet repair and paint base coat

Doing at least one restoration a year (two this year), I spent the money on a Festool, which made stripping the cabinet a breeze (I also took note of the serial number before starting: 08144). I used 80 grit paper to do this:

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Once the cabinet was stripped, it was time to start repairing stuff. I glued all delaminated plywood and even had to replace one strip of wood on the underside which was beat to hell:

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To rebuild corners, I used U-Pol Fibral. I drilled small holes so that the Fibral could "grip" the wood better. There were notches cut out of the corner pieces at the front of the cabinet; these were rebuilt with fiberglass as well, then smoothed over with U-Pol Fantastic (which I like better than Bondo). Every nick and dent was Bondo'ed flat, both inside and outside the cabinet.

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Everything got sanded smooth, first with 120 grit paper, then 220 grit paper (again, the Festool is a monster in helping you do this quickly!). Once it was smooth like buttah, I sealed the entire cabinet with Zinsser Seal Coat, then sanded smooth again with 220 grit paper. (Thanks, Nico Volta!!! )

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Finally, it was ready for painting. I used Rustoleum 2x Heirloom White (which looks plenty white in the last picture, regardless of people's concerns over it being too almond - it all depends on the lighting!). I used at least 3 coats, and went through 5 cans of paint.

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Next up: I fire up the HVLP sprayer to paint the black spatter, and get ready for some stenciling (after at least 5 days of curing!).

#43 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

I didn't know you lived up that way. Everything in New York is just ... New York. I'm jealous that you live so close to PBR...you should probably get into EMs more.

Steve has everything there electronic and em. He's always my first stop for parts.

Did he tell you "you know... ...we really don't do walk ins" or did he give you a tour?? Most important - were you prepared with part numbers on your shopping list or was your visit to PBR brief and you ended up outside and part less while asking yourself "what just happened"? (No parts for you!)

Kidding aside Steve's a wealth of knowledge and information. On the occasions I've happened to catch him in a good (talkative) mood - as one might expect from a guy listed in the pinball hall of fame - he has shared some amazing stories, history of the industry, and game development history with me. Definitely makes for some interesting conversations!

I also want to do an EM but need to finish up the slowest T2 restoration in history first (cause ya can't rush things ya know).

#44 3 years ago
Quoted from Pinterest:

Steve has everything there electronic and em. He's always my first stop for parts.
Did he tell you "you know... ...we really don't do walk ins" or did he give you a tour?? Most important - were you prepared with part numbers on your shopping list or was your visit to PBR brief and you ended up outside and part less while asking yourself "what just happened"? (No parts for you!)
Kidding aside Steve's a wealth of knowledge and information. On the occasions I've happened to catch him in a good (talkative) mood - as one might expect from a guy listed in the pinball hall of fame - he has shared some amazing stories, history of the industry, and game development history with me. Definitely makes for some interesting conversations!
I also want to do an EM but need to finish up the slowest T2 restoration in history first (cause ya can't rush things ya know).

I learned my "Soup Nazi" lesson during my phone call to him. I told him I would pick up the parts so I could meet him in person so he could put a face to the name. I think that's important in doing business with people and with this hobby. So I went into the one parts room, and looked through the door into the other parts room. Just a bunch of shelves with brown boxes full of parts.

Sorry you had to stand in the parking lot.

#45 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

... I'm 51, so I could go any day myself.

Age has nothing to do with it, you are not going to die a natural death. It will be by the hands of someone who knows you.

How is Janice?

#46 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Any recommendation on brand for satin clear coat? Just go with Rustoleum?

I would stick with the same manufacturer as your other paint if possible. However, I have used krylon satin clear in the past with good results, even over rustoleum. The one thing to watch out for is not putting the first coat on too heavy. I have had my paint bubble when applying the clear too heavy. Lesson learned... Test it out on the backbox top, which is kind of out of sight and is easy to redo if necessary.

Also, do not use the Krylon Low Odor, that stuff sucks, it leaves a white residue and looks like crap.

#47 3 years ago
Quoted from Noobee:

I would stick with the same manufacturer as your other paint if possible. However, I have used krylon satin clear in the past with good results, even over rustoleum. The one thing to watch out for is not putting the first coat on too heavy. I have had my paint bubble when applying the clear too heavy. Lesson learned... Test it out on the backbox top, which is kind of out of sight and is easy to redo if necessary.

Well...that's a problem. I used Rustoleum for the white, but am using Krylon for the stencil colors.

Crap.

#48 3 years ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Well...that's a problem. I used Rustoleum for the white, but am using Krylon for the stencil colors.
Crap.

i would still go with the Krylon, just test it on the top of the backbox first, which is rustoleum. It should be ok.

#49 3 years ago

Since newbies may be reading this thread, I would caution against sanding off the paint as it could contain lead. Lead was only outlawed in homes in 1978 and continued in commercial use for some time after that. There are some very cheap, eco friendly orange strippers that do a great job removing most of the paint.

IMG_2075_(resized).JPG

#50 3 years ago
Quoted from Topcard:

Since newbies may be reading this thread, I would caution against sanding off the paint as it could contain lead. Lead was only outlawed in homes in 1978 and continued in commercial use for some time after that. There are some very cheap, eco friendly orange strippers that do a great job removing most of the paint.

Good point, and thanks for bringing it up. The Festool is hooked up to a HEPA vacuum, but for further safety, I do wear a sanding mask. (And a respirator when painting.)

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