(Topic ID: 261496)

‘78 Brunswick Alive


By Sgt_Trip

9 days ago



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  • 23 posts
  • 3 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 day ago by KenLayton
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#1 9 days ago

Hey guys, running into an issue with this machine. The bottom half of the pf, speaker, score light, all bumpers and flippers are shorting out and popping breakers CB4 and CB2. I reset them and the unit works for 10-15 mins then shorts out and half the board goes dark. I tested the coils and the are all reading about 3.5 except the return bumper at the bottom which is at 10.5. Circuit board is clean and nothing looks burnt out. Diodes on the machine are all at 3. I have to reset both breakers to get it going. Any thoughts? I posted schematics and other stuff. Any help would really be appreciated!!!!

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#2 9 days ago

A better schematic is here:

https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Brunswick_/_Briarwood

Those "push to reset" circuit breakers are known to go bad (won't hold a load) with age.

#3 9 days ago

Ken, would you recommend replacing all three?

#4 8 days ago

Ok, so I found an old post on the internet saying that the thumper bumper can be a common problem for shorts. So I started the thing up and got everything going and I manually engaged the thumper bumper and it starts to crackle and smoke on the eos contacts. Should I just replace the eos or should I replace the coil (the coil read fine yesterday and doesn't appear to be broken). Thoughts?

#5 8 days ago

Maybe a bad transistor? Diode checked out fine yesterday as well.

#6 7 days ago

Can anyone give a hand? Im hopeful but also very lost lol

#7 6 days ago

Hoping for some help.

#8 5 days ago

Did you measure the resistance of the pop bumper coil? Does it's plunger move freely and without binding?

#9 4 days ago

Hey Ken, thanks so much for getting back to me. I measured resistance on thumper and it is 3.4 which is ok. I checked all the rest and found that the return bumper (pic below) has a resistance of 10.6. I took a pick of it as well (also below). Could it be this?

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#10 4 days ago

Return flipper not bumper, sorry.

#11 4 days ago

In addition I am seeing a few items not working now that I powered it up and tested everything. I attached a photo of the items not working when I attempt to activate them.

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#12 4 days ago

I am thinking to replace solenoid and diode for ball return and thumper bumper. They are the only parts consistently not working when i reset the breakers.

I tried the switch test when i started it up and the thumper bumper was the only switch that did not register anything.

#13 4 days ago

Ok, so in case anyone actually cares, here is what happened. I wanted to doublecheck the resistance and find out why the thumper Bumper and ball return werent working. The thumper spoon needed to be adjusted for spacing on the eos contacts and now it is engaged and working fine. For some reason there was grease or something in the spoon and once i cleaned it there was no issue at all. Strangely enough the machine also stopped shorting out once i fixed this thumper issue... weird... not sure why.

So the entire machine, except the ball return flipper, is working fine. You will remember that the ball return flipper was reading 10.6 Ohms on resistance. It still is. Connections look good on the return switch terminals. The return switch is activating and is resetting the ball on the circuit and score boards, and the connections look good on the return assembly solenoid coil. So why isnt it kicking the ball?

Just thinking out loud i think i may need to find a way to see if the solenoid coil is actually being energized. Thoughts!

#14 4 days ago

If you stick a voltmeter on the leads of the coil to the ball eject, do you ever see a spike of voltage when it should be firing?

#15 3 days ago

I have tried the DMM for volts on the solenoid but im not even getting a reading. Admittedly I am not super knowledgeable on which setting to use but I am getting 0 across the board for every configuration in volts. Here is a pic of the ball return solenoid and the DMM i am using. Any tips would be great.

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#16 3 days ago

So this is totally wild. I have been assuming this whole time that there was a short in the wiring causing the breakers to trip. I have literally been following wires for hours. The. i went to reset the machine and as I was standing up it reset and turned itself completely on.

Turns out the wires are all fine. The circuit breakers are loose. I put a plastic dowel near the reset button on the back and it turns on without an issue. So I guess the question now is how do I tighten the breakers up so that they arent so wiggly and prone to dropping the power to the board? Advice is welcome lol

Oh and the ball return flipper still is dead. Wiring seems good and the switch is making a sound when the flipper should operate, just no actual flipper action. Very interesting... still frustrating lol.

I attached a couple photos of the breakers for your thoughts.

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#17 3 days ago

It helps to use an analog meter and with probes that have alligator clips on them.

By the way, that Bally coil is for 50 volt use. Brunswick uses 24 volt coils.

#18 3 days ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

By the way, that Bally coil is for 50 volt use. Brunswick uses 24 volt coils.

Do you think that the Bally coil could be the reason it is not kicking the ball?

#19 3 days ago

Use jumper wires with alligator clips to ensure a good connection. Clip them to the coil leads and then to the test leads off your meter. Set it top the V-(the V on the left) on the 200 setting. That's DC voltage in the range you are expecting. Fire up the game and watch for a spike in that voltage. If it stays zero and doesn't change, it isn't the coil. Another test would be to pull the leads off the coil and plug them into another coil, like one of the slingshot coils. If it fires, I'd look at replacing the coil.
However, something did occur to me. Does this machine have a trough switch that would prevent the eject from firing if a ball isn't present? If so, that switch could be defective. I would test that by connecting the switch leads using a diode and seeing if it changes the behavior.

#20 2 days ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

Use jumper wires with alligator clips to ensure a good connection. Clip them to the coil leads and then to the test leads off your meter. Set it top the V-(the V on the left) on the 200 setting.

Ok so i put the clips on and at 200 I didn't see a spike. However, when I put it to 20 it did spike to 0.06-0.07. I am thinking that it may be the coil at this point.

Quoted from ThatOneDude:

Does this machine have a trough switch that would prevent the eject from firing if a ball isn't present? If so, that switch could be defective. I would test that by connecting the switch leads using a diode and seeing if it changes the behavior.

I tried attaching the leads to other things and I am mot see anything pop or start working but the wiring is a bit funky (double wires vs single ones and such). When I depress the switch to simulate ball contact the system makes an audible sound and adjusts the score. So the switch seems to be working. Seems like the solenoid is just not kicking.

I think that since Ken mentioned the coil being the wrong size and the spike in voltage that i should replace it. Thoughts?

#21 1 day ago

I would replace the coil.

#22 1 day ago
Quoted from KenLayton:

I would replace the coil.

Thanks, just purchased. I will keep you updated.

Regarding the circuit breakers. I think that the soldering might be loose or there might be an issue with the breaker itself. I am taking your advice and I bought three to replace the existing ones. Fingers crossed.

Do you guys think I should buy another ball return switch just to be safe?

#23 1 day ago

Those "push-to-reset" breakers all have their values printed on them. There should be two values, "Hold" current and "Trip" current. Be sure to get the correct ones.

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