(Topic ID: 246167)

78 Bally Lost World Restore

By timab2000

4 years ago


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10
#1 4 years ago

Now that I have my Capt Fantastic completed, for the most part, a couple of odds and end to tie up, it's time to start another one.

78 Bally Lost World. I know....why waste your time on that game?

Well a couple of reasons. I think it is kind of a fun game, and I don't think I have seen anyone restore one. Plus I think the art work is cool and can't wait to do the paint and stencil work for it.

I also scored a nos playfield for it, so I am goning to take some extra time to really get it look as nice as I can.

I'll post pictures soon...

#8 4 years ago

Here are some pictures of the game as it sits right now. It is playing but it's a little rough.

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#9 4 years ago

Not sure what's up with the few things on here.

A little block of wood maybe to keep it from hitting the wall I don't know.

The Big Bolt next to the coin door not sure what's that about.

Coin door is a mess like always.

Thin steel plate underneath maybe to make it easier to float in and out of a truck.

That black stuff in the corner of the inside cabinet kind of nasty looking

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#11 4 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

haha nice pics
and just to show, here's my pincab & theme... know what i mean ?
[quoted image]

Yeah that looks pretty cool

#12 4 years ago

The legs on the game are not Bally legs, was told they maybe for a Stern game.

Those bolts certainly aren't going to work.

Sanded down and repainted a set of Bally legs that'll go on it. One of them still drying.

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#15 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Maybe the neck is separating from the cabinet so someone put it there to reinforce it??? You might want to check if the neck is loose.

Yeah that will certainly be looked at.

Quoted from trilogybeer:

That metal plate on the bottom looks pretty serious .

The plate is kind of funky, but I can see where it would make it easier to slide into the back of a pickup. Unless it is covering something up, like broken wood or something like that.

#16 4 years ago

The disassembly starts take the back box off first

The boards look all original mpu corroded and a couple hack wires here and there deal with all that later.

Need one of those metal Transformer guards if anyone has one they can let go of let me know.
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#17 4 years ago

Before I start unplugging everything, I use blue painter's tape and Mark all the connections to all the board so I don't forget. I'm getting older and can't remember as well.

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#18 4 years ago

Off With His Head

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#19 4 years ago

Playfield lifts right out pretty light when there's no drop Targets in it.

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#20 4 years ago

Just took this thing off the back and realized what it was.

This block is used inside the cabinet to hold the on-off switch why they put it on the back is beyond me.

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#21 4 years ago
Quoted from Quench:

Maybe the neck is separating from the cabinet so someone put it there to reinforce it??? You might want to check if the neck is loose.

The neck is nice and tight

#22 4 years ago

Here are the color choices I forgot to buy the red or orange not sure which.

I think the black on the cabinet is actually supposed to be a purple to match the Playfield if somebody knows for sure what that color should be let me know.
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#24 4 years ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

Mine is black , I’ve seen blue but I haven’t seen purple.

Okay I'll have to see when I get some of that coin door trim off.

Cabinet wiring harnesses out

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#26 4 years ago

The bottom of the cabinet and has these brackets keeping things together for whatever reason.

And then the twist nail one of many right next to it is holding that steel plate on to the cabinet so all that's coming off.

In this big bolt thing off the front by the coin door not sure what's up with that either that's coming out

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#28 4 years ago
Quoted from BallyPinWiz:

I would say with 100% certainty that the metal plate under the machine was installed by an operator who was preventing a break-in or who was reinforcing the cabinet after a break-in.

Yeah I would agree with that possibly either way that bad boy is coming off.
Little overkill on the nails I'd say

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#29 4 years ago

Now that I got that big metal plate off I would say the black paint is a dark purple
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Now that's a carriage Bolt and the hole it left

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#32 4 years ago

Hey that really looks awsome. Look forward to seeing it finished.

Definitely motivates me

#34 4 years ago

Cabinet is gutted. Going to probably pull the bottom out so I can sand it real well or replace.

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#35 4 years ago

Checking out the repairs needed on the cabinet lots of holes to fill and broken corners.

Bottom of cabinet Has Broken wood and needs work

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#37 4 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Ah very cool, glad I stumbled across your next project! Looking good so far Tim!

Yeah buddy I'm onto the next one.

Didn't take long to get the bottom out. Looks like some sort of nasty dark German beer got spilled in the corner yuck.

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#38 4 years ago
Quoted from BallyPinWiz:

Can you post a pic of the paint you used on the legs?

Here's the paint I used for the legs

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#39 4 years ago

A little bit of progress today got two side sanded down.

Might try to get the other side's done tomorrow

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#40 4 years ago

Small update...ordered the stencils from Jeff @ Pinball Pimp.

He sure makes a great product with great service as well. Always look forward to getting them.

#42 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianPinball:

In case it helps.
For the base I used Molotow Signal Yellow
then
Molotow Signal Red
Ironlak Storm's Purple Reign
Each color was cleared over, insert your clear of choice

Thanks for the info I appreciate it.

Got the cabinet sanded down with 80 grit going to start working on some of the defects I like using fiberglass epoxy. We'll see how it turns out

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#43 4 years ago

So I poured the fiberglass resin in the bad areas let it set overnight and here's the results

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#44 4 years ago

This morning the sanding has begun already looking better.

Not perfect but it will be eventually.
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Bottom edges still need a lot of work but I'll deal with that when I get the floor back in.

#45 4 years ago

Still working on the corners to try to get them nice and sharp.
Some areas are looking good While others still need work

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#46 4 years ago

I thought while waiting for cabinet repairs to dry, I would work on the coin door.

It need work like everything else. All parts that will fit in the tumbler will get tumbled.

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#47 4 years ago

Well the teardown didn't take too long. Lots of parts to clean. Going to tumble the small stuff first. So this could take a couple days.

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#48 4 years ago

Still waiting for the parts for the coin door to come out of the tumbler.

So while I wait I worked on cutting out the piece of wood for the bottom of the cabinet

Should look better than the old original one

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#49 4 years ago

Test fit the new bottom of the cabinet, looks like it fits.

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#50 4 years ago

Starting to get the coin door back together.

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#52 4 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Glad to see your wearing OSHA approved PPE footwear. [quoted image]

That's funny it's about 80° in my garage. Can't sneak anything past you guys.

It's interesting some of the things you find when you work on these things and take them all apart this wire was just looped around this.
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#53 4 years ago

Coin door is done. Not real happy with the front, used the original skin pretty beat up tried to straighten it the best I could looks okay for now.
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#54 4 years ago

Bottom of the cabinet is in and glued. Just have to go through with the belt sander and bring down the trim pieces that we're glued in.

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#55 4 years ago

Belt sander work on the bottom of the cabinet is done.

Might be able to start spraying some primer tomorrow.

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#56 4 years ago

This came in the mail today always good to get.

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#57 4 years ago

I was able to get a coat of white primer on it today
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The bad Corner areas that needed work look much better now. But still need a little bit more work.
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The front coin box area that had two huge hole in it from the Carriage Bolt not really not noticeable now one small little little spot I got to fix
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#58 4 years ago

Here are some before pictures of some hardware
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#59 4 years ago

And some after pictures.

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#61 4 years ago
Quoted from RonSwanson:

Shined up nicely! Did you use a bench grinder?

Buffing pad on a cordless drill

#64 4 years ago
Quoted from RonSwanson:

Can you link to what you used? Also, what compound did you use on the pad? I'm looking to try this method out. Thanks.

Well the drill you can get pretty much get at any Home Improvement store even electric drill would work.

The buffing wheel I got from a mother's headlight restoration kit that polishes out the plastic headlights and then I just use Mothers Polish

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#65 4 years ago

Was able to get the yellow sprayed this morning.

With the scenic cornfield in the background from Iowa

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#66 4 years ago

Started to stencil the cabinet today first color is the red, one side is done.
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It was kind of a hard stencil lot of detail the peel off. But turned out pretty good.

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#67 4 years ago

If I remember right you're supposed to do the front stencil first so you can line up the side stencils with the graphics.

But with Lost World there's nothing to line up with the front stencil so I can spray it whenever I want.
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#70 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballPimp:

AWESOME job so far! Keep up the great work!
Pimp!

Thanks Jeff your products are great easy to use and makes a person like me actually look like I know what I'm doing. I'll keep buying from you.

#71 4 years ago
Quoted from shaundburch:

This is just too cool! Nice work. Thanks for taking the time to document and share. Definitely inspires me to try a full restore soon!

Hey thanks for the comments I appreciate it. I'm trying to post as much as I can

If it can helps somebody else out, or inspires them to take on a project of their own, I think that's great.

#72 4 years ago

Got the front first stencil done and the neck of the cabinet.
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Decided to go with yellow all the way up the back, rather than have the black part of that neck showing. We'll see how it looks can always change it later.
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#73 4 years ago

Thought I'd spend a little time working on the cabinet wiring. There's a lotta cut wires and splices that need work, plus it all needs cleaned up.

I always hated the look of the big yellow plug in. Put a nice new one on.

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#74 4 years ago

Okay couple splices cleaned up. A new power cord soldered on. Looks better already

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#75 4 years ago

And while I got my soldering iron out, I'll solder in 2 new flipper switches. These have seen better days.

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#78 4 years ago
Quoted from RonSwanson:

I appreciate you documenting your work. Quick question: how long did you let the red paint dry before pulling the stencil off?

I don't have an exact time. But I spray it let it, let it sit for just a few minutes, and then start unmasking.

Once that is done, I start pulling off the stencil it's self.

One problem I run into is, when pulling the stencil off, the paint tends to want to stretch and stays attached to the stencil material. Then it breaks loose and drop back onto the cabinet.

This is probably caused by too much paint being sprayed on, or maybe not waiting long enough for paint to dry before pulling stencil off. Or pulling it off too soon. Haven't quite figured that out yet.

I need to take some time to experiment with left over stencil material and see what works best. Letting it dry completely or pulling while it is still wet. Or somewhere in between. It's probably more to do with too much paint. Hard to get that just right too.

#79 4 years ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

That cabinet is looking good!
Looking forward to the blue.

Thanks doc...I have been following your Fathom work as well. It looks good too.

#82 4 years ago

A fellow pinsider emailed me asking about the alignment squares mine being red.

They are actually the original part of the stencil from the first stencil that stay on the cabinet. I just painted over them when I line up the second stencil I will use those squares to make sure everything's lined up correctly.

When I lay the second stencil down I will put some blue painter's tape over the X just so the next color won't bleed through.
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#83 4 years ago
Quoted from Pablito350:

When I repainted my Grand Prix I only waited about 5 minutes after I sprayed 2 light coats of color before I removed the stencils.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-up-an-old-williams-grand-prix#post-5033875
If you wait too long the paint will be too dry, and you run the risk of pulling it up.
-Paul

I think my big problem is I spray a little too thick.

#84 4 years ago

Getting ready to do the right side of the cabinet.

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#85 4 years ago

Right side first stencil is done turned out pretty good few little mistakes as you see in the pictures.

I'll go back after it dries clean all that up won't even know what happened.

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#87 4 years ago

Okay well to answer your first question, I just use 80 grit on a cordless Black & Decker sander on the legs and take that down to 180 Grit. And then throw a few coats of paint on them.

I have an 18 lb tumbler that I bought from Harbor Freight don't waste your time on the 5-pound ones you can't get enough stuff in those. I use Walnut shells and then flitz Tumblr polish additive stuff. You can't put a lot of the coin door stuff in the Tumblr for good 24 hours clean it up real nice.

If I have to polish anything out I just use that drill with that polishing pad and some mothers.

Then sanding down the cabinet, I belt sand with 80 grit to strip it down quick. I then bring it back in the shop fix all the damage. Then to get my repairs sanded down I'll use 80 grit down to 180 down to 220 hitting the entire cabinet with all those with a vibrating sander.

If there's any small scratches or dings I'll use spot body putty filler. Once I get everything the way I like it and I spray the primer on there I use my vibrating sander and hit the primer with 220 spray another coat or two and then hit that with 400 to level everything out then spray the color.

That's basically the routine I'm not saying that's the best way to do it but that's just the way I've been doing it turns out pretty good good luck working on your Mata Hari make sure you post lots of pictures of it.

When you start taking it apart take tons and tons of pictures so you can remember how to put it all back together especially the coin door about the time you think you've taken enough pictures take a whole bunch more

#88 4 years ago

So I went ahead and got the second stencil on one side of the cabinet lay down and color painted. Went pretty good for the most part I got one spot where I brushed into the purple with my finger accidentally I'll have to fix that.

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#92 4 years ago

Thanks for the vote of confidence I appreciate it.

Now that I got the one side painted I'm going back and looking at all the little defects and clean and things up.

I use a super Sharp super pointy exacto knife so I can just pick at the little pieces of paint that got stretch out and laid on to the other colors trying not to get into the yellow or the red.

Most people probably wouldn't even notice this but I do so I try to make it look as nice as I can.
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#93 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Did you get raised edges on your paint layers from too much paint

There is a slight edge that you can feel. I don't go for the "clear coating" thing and try to make it look like a finish on a Ferrari. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but that's just not for me. Plus I really don't have the kind of equipment, and trying to get that kind of results with Rustoleum rattle cans would be pretty tough.

I would hate to try and screw it up and have to start all over again.

#94 4 years ago

Working on the front stencil second color turned out pretty good. You have to put a little backing piece of cardboard or wood in the coin box opening so the stencil lays in there flat.

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#98 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Hey what do you call that low profile 4 wheeled platform you use to move the cabinet around? Looks like that would come in handy.

Not very high tech but it gets the job done.

It's better when it's back up on its correct legs.
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#101 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Curious how many cans of primer & paint to used to get the cabinet done. Looks awesome!

If I remember right I use 5 cans of primer because of some of that got sand it off. And two cans of yellow. One can of red one can of purple.

#102 4 years ago

Ordered a part for the game on eBay my favorite Used Parts Warehouse. And this is how it came packaged. I guess finding a box was a little too much to ask.

Got to love some of the sellers on eBay.
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But despite the subpar Packaging the item came undamaged.
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#104 4 years ago
Quoted from nitrojcrawf:

It was a box...at one point. Lol

Yeah I guess that's one way to look at it.

Lower cabinet is starting to come together.
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#105 4 years ago

Thought I'd start working on this for the wiring harness.
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Couple of wires to solder back on and this is done.

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#107 4 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Where do you paint?I try to paint outside and the wind screws me up. I try to paint in my garage and the over spray gets everywhere.
I usually build a room of sorts with plastic sheets, then I can’t park my car in the garage.

I paint in my garage and outside
In the garage I try to cover everything up with a bunch of old bed sheets for the over spray and put a big tarp on the floor.

Try to spray most the primer outside since it's not a big deal how it turns out because most if it gets sanded down anyway. But the color coats are done inside.

#108 4 years ago

I decided while I had this wiring harness out I would redo the connectors on the J-3 plug for the mpu.

Thought it would be easier while I was out of the game to do all that

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#109 4 years ago

Well the cabinet is 98% done I forgot to buy new flipper buttons. But other than that it's completed.

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#112 4 years ago
Quoted from mario_1_up:

You in northern or southern Iowa?

Out by Cedar Rapids

#113 4 years ago
Quoted from mrm_4:

Looking great man! You gonna paint the coin box purple?

That might look kind of cool I'll have to think about that.

#115 4 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Could you share with us how you fixed/cleaned the coin door?
I am especially curious on the best way to remove rust and dents.

Well I'm kind of embarrassed to say but when I get the front door skin off I lay it on the concrete floor in my garage and I take a small ball peen hammer and I start to slowly hammer the dents out.

I can't get it looking like brand new but at least get it squared up again.

If the edges are bent and from somebody trying to pry into it I just take a pair of pliers and try to bend those back out. Trying not to cause any more damage.

As far as rust goes the front skin usually isn't too rusted at the back panel of it can be pretty nasty. On this build I just Scotch-Brite to get as of the crap off as I can and then I repainted that the same color as the legs.

#117 4 years ago

Starting work on the back box getting it cleaned out of all the boards.

Driver board is a Stern, it'll go up for sale. Mpu not bad shape, but it'll go up for sale to along with the light board. Anybody interested in any of those PM me maybe we work something out.

All the boards were working when I pull them the only problem I had with the game was the left slingshot would stop working after about 3 or 4 minutes into gameplay not sure what that was all about

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#121 4 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Got my lost world delivered last night and put it together toady. Playfield faded, repo backglass and restored cab (in purple).[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Nice looking game!

Quoted from Tbpilot78:

Loving this,very informative and cant wait to see it done

Thanks going keep working on it. Like today... worked on backbox and have a lot to fix.

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#124 4 years ago
Quoted from RonSwanson:

Curious how long it takes to sand the cabinet and the backbox. Ever tried a chemical paint remover?

It only took about a half hour to sand the back box. The cabinet took about an hour. That paint was really on there.

Using a chemical stripper I think would make a bigger mess wiping all of it off with towel or whatever. Don't really want to deal with that.

#125 4 years ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

This things gonna look new when your done with it,such a cool game as well,def on my wishlist

Thanks for the vote of confidence I appreciate it.

#126 4 years ago

Still working on the back box fixing all the bad spots. This one by the lock it was a pretty good chunk so I stuck a couple staples in there to give the epoxy something to hold onto.

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#128 4 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Is there replacement playfields available for this title? It's the only thing letting mine down.

Not that I know of I was able to find an NOS Playfield for it online.

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#129 4 years ago

While I'm waiting for things to dry on my back box, I am looking at my rectifier board and it looks terrible.

But my new one came in the mail today which is cool. I have never soldered it in a rectifier board so this will be something new. I hope I don't screw it up.

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#132 4 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Way cool!
Do you have a scanner you could use to scan that and to preserve a file for others to use on restores?

I don't have a scanner but if you know of a way or somewhere I could get it done I would certainly think about it

#133 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Care to share your general process for the fiberglass epoxy? Do you staple thin aluminium sheets to create a new corner, place staples/screws & then pour the epoxy? Curious how long it takes to set.

Well as crazy as it sounds I use 3M blue painter's tape. The fiberglass epoxy does not stick to the sticky side of the tape. It's flexible cheap easy to use and it works. I overfill it a little bit and then sand the corner into a nice sharp point. See picture.

If it's a pretty good gouge or chunk taken out I will put something in there to give the fiberglass epoxy something to hold onto the screw or staple as shown in the previous post.

Takes about an hour for the stuff to set up
15641728315911496491139 (resized).jpg15641728315911496491139 (resized).jpg T
This repair has 2 Staples inside of

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#135 4 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

I have a busted one that just needs new glass in order to be right as rain, I'd be more than happy to send it to you to borrow, for the cause! How long until you need to populate that beauty?

Well it's going to be a good couple weeks before I get to the Playfield my wife and I are taking two week vacation middle of next month and then when I come back and first week of September I'm having surgery so I'll be out for a good month and a half. So unfortunately I probably won't get to the Playfield for a while.

#138 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Wow I would have never thought of using tape. If you say it works I will def try it. Sounds much easier than using aluminium sheets.
What about really small areas (like a half inch) where there is a small chip along an edge? Do you use the epoxy in such a small spot or do you use Bondo filler? I would think the bondo would be easier to manage & sand along an edge. The epoxy is just for larger areas like corners where more strength is needed right?
I'll almost done sanding the original paint so this is my next step, hopefully this weekend.

I use the fiberglass epoxy on pretty much everything. Occasionally I'll use some of this stuff, but it doesn't seem set up as hard as the epoxy. This filler I use mostly on flat areas to fill in wood grain areas.
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Here are some shots of some of the smaller areas have done with the fiberglass epoxy

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I have some hand sanding to do inside the cabinet that my sander won't get to but I'm about ready to start spraying primer maybe this weekend.

#141 4 years ago

Well in all honesty I have to give most the credit to "vid1900".

He has a post somewhere here on the site about restoring cabinets and he used a lot of fiberglass epoxy on what he was doing, so I just took his lead and it's what I've been using it ever since so thanks to him for that.

I wish he would come back to the site. He was a great source of information for Restorations and just pinball in general. He is sorely missed

#146 4 years ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

Agreed,ive learned alot about williams system 6 games and how to take care of pf's from that guy,wonder if he passed on?

He is still alive, just not here anymore.

#148 4 years ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

Well at least hes ok and may come back around, paragon is another great title,damn those bg's are just amazing on alotta the early ss ballys

I was just looking at the back glass for my lost world some of the artwork and Things That You Don't See right off the bat unless you really start looking at it it's pretty amazing

#149 4 years ago

I got the first coats of primer on the back box today. Still lots of work ahead before the color goes on. You don't realize what you missed until you start getting some primer on it.
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Things like this. Wood is kind of a pain in the ass to paint. The grain shows through it soaks up the paint in some spots but not others. But we'll get that all straightened out before the color goes on

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#152 4 years ago
Quoted from slochar:

Bally sold tons of the machine back in 78 because of that bg artwork - no one had seen anything like it previously. I think it was in an interview with Paul Faris where he mentions this. The 4 color process allowing them to reproduce paintings on backglasses really made their games stand out from others with the plain line art (although some very good artists like Dave Christensen certainly was a master of the line art).
Is the primer you are using supposed to seal the wood as well? I always thought sealer first followed by primer if they aren't one and the same.

This was just the 1st coats of primer. I really wasn't expecting a lot of good coverage. It will get better with more coats.

Decided to solder the new rectifier board in I think I did okay with my solders they look pretty good we won't know for sure until the games together.

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#154 4 years ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

That looks good man,connections look solid,i bet it works

Well I hope so. I bought a really nice soldering iron with different tips and adjustable temp settings. Really made a big difference.

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#156 4 years ago

After resanding the cabinet today and multiple coats of primer, I think I finally got the cabinet looking how I want.

A lot of the wood grain that was showing through has now blended in pretty nice.
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I'll let it dry up real good then maybe tomorrow hit it all with some 400 Grit and then spray the yellow.

#157 4 years ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

Not suprised at all,i solder small stuff and repairs but til i get a nice setup like that i send my boards off, but i did tell the wife i really need a nice soldering station and will remind her at xmas . That was a smart buy on your part as having the right size tip,proper heat,etc is half the battle w soldering

I used to try soldering with one of these god-awful things it's okay for doing wires but fine board work not that I'm an expert at that it didn't work all that well.
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I'd rather have a nice tip like this

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#159 4 years ago

Got a delivery for Marco today so new side rails have been put on.

Also was able to spray the back box yellow.

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#160 4 years ago

New flipper buttons versus old

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#162 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Did the side rails come with the nails or did you have to source them separately? Looks awesome

You have to get the nail separately I was able to get some from Marco a while back

#164 4 years ago

I'll go with 47s

#174 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

I have a Hakko soldering station with the adjustable temps, tip assortments etc. I bought couple years ago for board work, but I’ve never tried before, but I’m going to have to do the same thing with a new rectifier board. Care to explain what temps, solder type & technique worked for you?

As far as temperature I just have mine at 400 degrees. I don't know if that's the correct temperature but it melts the solder. I don't claim to be an expert at it. And then I use this solder.

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#175 4 years ago

Now that I got the yellow painted I'm going to start putting down the stencils first color is red.

However I noticed that the stencils have the labels maybe printed wrong.

I put the stencil on with the label that says paint this color first at the top so I don't put the stencil on upside down, but you can see in the pictures I don't think it's right. Might have to talk to Jeff pinball pimp about that.

The first picture is with the stencils having the label at the top. Something doesn't look right.
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This picture shows the one stencil turned around. This is how they should get laid down. The label is at the bottom now. The guys eyeballs and forehead wrinkles have to line up.

I'm glad I noticed this before I put anything on permanently. But then I could be totally overthinking everything.

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#177 4 years ago
Quoted from arcademojo:

Looking great! Lost World has always been one of my favorites. I have 18 classic Bally pins and hope to ad a few more.

Thanks I appreciate it yeah I think it's a fun game.

Stencil getting laid down and peeled back.

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#180 4 years ago

Okay the paint has been sprayed.
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Can be pretty nerve-wracking peeling the stencil back

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#181 4 years ago

Okay well that turned out pretty nice lines are nice and crisp.
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I'm pretty happy with the results

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#183 4 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I need to do sone touchups on my paragon. Just wondering, since these machines have VERY similar coloring... what brand of paint and colors are you using?

Here you go

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#184 4 years ago

Left side done with red.

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#187 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Looks great so far. Have you ever attempted repainting a cabinet with the rustoleum paints in satin sheen instead of gloss? Might look more like a old factory paint job instead of a high sheen look? I've never found any photos of someone using satin paints. I'm curious how it would look. Hard to resist using those gloss paints.

I did this one in satin Rustoleum:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/capt-fantastic-rebuild-begins

And this one...

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#190 4 years ago

I would rather use satin if I can get it in the color I want.

#191 4 years ago

Moving on to spraying the purple on the back box right side is done.
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And now the left side's done. I forgot to put a little piece of tape over the black X lineup mark on the 2nd stencils, this is what happens if they don't line up just perfectly. I'll be able to buff that little bit out you'll never know it was there.

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#192 4 years ago

Okay quick preview
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Why I didn't put the backglass end in the beginning who knows.

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#197 4 years ago
Quoted from astyy:

Just caught up with this thread and I applaud the choice of that purple, looks blinkin great.
Also, bonus points for using Gold Ball as a workbench, I do the the same as its nice and level.

Yeah Gold Ball may be going up for sale soon haven't decided yet. It's a fun game I just haven't decided yet what I want to do with it.

#201 4 years ago

Thanks for all the nice compliments I really appreciate it.

#202 4 years ago

Starting to strip down online backbox light and scoring board. Some reason I can't think of what it's called.

Not going to get too carried away but we'll paint the front of it white.

These screws are not the correct ones but I have extras.

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#204 4 years ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

Youll be about done with the painting after this right?its been moving along fast

Yeah painting should be done.

#205 4 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

I've replaced the glass in my scanner if your willing and able to scan that shiny new playfield?
PM me if your interested.

PM sent.......

#208 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

What primer do you use? I’m having second thoughts about what I used on my backbox.
Any of these?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I have used the top 2

#209 4 years ago

Playfield teardown begins

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#210 4 years ago

This can't be good. Someone got carried away screwing The Flipper mounting brackets on for both sides

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#211 4 years ago

Topside stripped for the most part.

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#213 4 years ago

Yeah that's for sure. Lots of bad soldering underneath and crappy non-original mounting screws.

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#214 4 years ago

Maybe somebody can explain this to me.

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#217 4 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Mind posting a pic of what fiberglass patch you use?

Here ya go....

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#220 4 years ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

That is weird,first time ive seen that,i know you got a nos playfield but id say the pf isnt too bad,of course id sell that one and put the nos in

NOS Playfield is going back in already had a few people interested in the use Playfield.

Starting to work on cleaning up the top side parts lot of it'll go in the parts tumbler.
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More stuff for the Tumblr from underneath slingshot assemblies
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#221 4 years ago

Also going to start tearing down the bottom side of the Playfield.

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#225 4 years ago
Quoted from Tbpilot78:

Damn pf swaps look like a ton of work but man this things gonna be a show stopper

Yeah it's a lot of work but it's worth it.

Quoted from Waderade812:

This one looks relatively easy compared to others.

At least there's no drop targets to rebuild and mess with.

Quoted from Tbpilot78:

Agreed but man it still looks intimidating to me

There's a lot to it but you just got to take a lot of pictures so you have something to refer back to especially if your memories not so good like mine.

#226 4 years ago

I did get a lot of the parts out of the Tumblr this morning. Slingshot brackets, pop bumper brackets and the hardware associated with.

I can start rebuilding some of that. It's pretty amazing just how much stuff there is in one of these machines.
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And I still have all this to do.

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#227 4 years ago

More nasty dirty stuff for the Tumblr.

And some of the off brand screws to hold everything in place. Don't think I'll be using those again.

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#229 4 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

I plead guilty of having no clue here, but...are there name brand screws?

Well..... Good question

#231 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Do you throw your dirty parts directly into the tumbler, or do you soak in something like evaporust first? Seems like overkill, unless it's a particularly rusty part. Some say you do that to prevent your medium from getting too dirty & losing it's effectiveness?

I just throw them in there no pre cleaning.

Harbor Freight sales a 25 lb box of walnut shell media for about 25 bucks. So for what I'm doing I can probably do at least two pinball machines maybe three before changing it out.

#234 4 years ago

Yep going to load that bad boy up today it'll earn his keep.

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#236 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Thanks guys, that's exactly what I wanted to hear. Time to put the Tumbler in action.[quoted image]

Yeah that thing is pretty badass!

#240 4 years ago
Quoted from Colsond3:

Not to sidetrack your thread, but a local garage to me a few years back had a custom built Batmobile from the original Michael Keaton movies. It needed a little work, but he was only asking 15K. Thing looked awesome.
I went up a few days later to offer him 12K cash, but the friggin thing was sold and gone already. I so would’ve driven that around my locale, maybe even to my office.

That would have been pretty cool if you could have made a deal on it.

#241 4 years ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

I am picking up my first pinball a Bally KISS that is restored to excellent condition for $2700,and may get the Lost World that needs paint and cleaned up from same seller.
They want $1888 which I think is too high. Its complete and works. They are putting in LED's. What's a good price to pay for a Lost World?

I would go with your gut feeling on that.

#244 4 years ago

Well not to get off the topic of my restore but I found something that was too good to resist so I took the day off yesterday and went and got it.

I'm not a big Gottlieb fan but the price was just too good so we're going to check it out it lights up but don't play

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#245 4 years ago

Back to the restore part of the post. Working on getting all that Playfield stuff back together.

Cleaned all the parts out of the tumbler today so this is what I got

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#247 4 years ago
Quoted from mario_1_up:

prepare for a lot of repining.

I kind of read that on pinwinkle.

#250 4 years ago
Quoted from PinballPimp:

The cabinet came out great... sorry I flipped your label upside down and freaked you out!

No worries just glad I caught it. Wouldn't be the first time I put one on upside down you know that.

I wish you could figure out how to do a stencil for aprons. That would be awesome.

#251 4 years ago

Back working on the new Playfield. Installed the pop bumper nails for lack of a better word.

I try to to countersink the heads of the nails with a drill bit just enough so they sit flush forgot to take a picture of that but here's what it looks like.

20190815_125131 (resized).jpg20190815_125131 (resized).jpg
#252 4 years ago

Well I was going to put the star roll over in but I noticed I can't cuz it's not opened up.
15658918821815960012755119709898 (resized).jpg15658918821815960012755119709898 (resized).jpg

Is the small center punch and pop right out. Yes it was left in there from the factory

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#254 4 years ago

Removing all these staples is a pain in the butt. There's a ton of them

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#256 4 years ago

Yeah I sure hope so thanks.

Old Playfield harness is off

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10
#257 4 years ago

Well I miss not working on my game because I'm on vacation but I kind of rather be where I'm at enjoy

Aloha from the Big Island

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#263 4 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

What pinball places do they have there?
Don't pretend like you haven't looked...

I have looked but have not found anything. But last time I was out here I did find a Bally Star Trek sitting in a old building but can't find the owner (yet)

#264 4 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

How nice of you to post from a wonderful looking vacation!
When you get home, I need to see if you can send me some of your BG measurements.
Enjoy the time away!

I will get that for you when I get back.

2 weeks later
#266 4 years ago

I'm back from my trip to the Big Island Hawaii. Had a great time. If you've never been there I would highly recommend going.

Back working on the Playfield have the lower half completed. Anywhere you see blue painter's tape so has to be done.

My ankle surgery was postponed till the 20th so as long as I'm still walking I figured I'd get as much done as I can
15678840792324122802116076610088 (resized).jpg15678840792324122802116076610088 (resized).jpg

#270 4 years ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

Im right now in vacation too, on an italian beach, still enjoying this post... good luck, for the pin but also your ankle

Thanks for the vote of confidence I appreciate it. I was able to get the bottom of the place field completed today.

1567973444496500144915653459728 (resized).jpg1567973444496500144915653459728 (resized).jpg15679734678796796745372040748952 (resized).jpg15679734678796796745372040748952 (resized).jpg15679734817873570926516088261425 (resized).jpg15679734817873570926516088261425 (resized).jpg
#271 4 years ago

I know a lot of people are going to cringe when they see this, but I think it's worth it to have.

Unfortunately because it was an NOS Playfield there was a lot of cupping on the inserts for whatever reason and I didn't want to go through all the effort the clear it to fix all that, so this seemed like the easiest fix.

I have a play field protector on my Bally Star Trek and I like it I can always take it off.

Looks like it's going to fit just fine.

15679741924958857578550446314632 (resized).jpg15679741924958857578550446314632 (resized).jpg
#273 4 years ago
Quoted from Jason43:

I was thinking about one of these for my lost world. How does it play on your star trek? Any issues?

I really like it. Plays fast. Nice and flat. No real issues with it. Some say it changes the feel of the game, I don't really notice any difference.

#276 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

When you were completing the lower playfield, were you just attaching the harness or were you rebuilding the mechs & installing new parts as you went? Just curious.

All the mechanics were rebuild if needed. I don't replace all the lights sockets and that kind of thing. That just adds to the cost of the rebuild so something's in good working order I just reuse it to keep the cost down.

#277 4 years ago

Well the Lost World game for all intensive purposes is completed.

Real happy with the way it turned out, plays nice.

Couple of small issues... one out lane switches not working, and there's something wrong with the sound, and the apron looks terrible it needs to be redone but other than that she's done.
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#279 4 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

It looks awesome!! Congratulations!

Yeah thank you I appreciate that

#282 4 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

What does intensive purposes mean? Did you mean all intents and purposes?

Yeah something like that

#283 4 years ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Tim, looks great, you should be a proud papa!
One suggestion, while they are not stock to that era, you might consider using these HD leg brackets in the future.
https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/01-11400-1
That machine in the distance sure looks familiar!
Take a bow, Lost World has been found!!! [quoted image]

Might start work on the one in the background next

#294 4 years ago

Thanks for all the nice words from everybody I greatly appreciate it. It was a fun one to do.

Going to take a break for a while and then start another one.

#297 4 years ago
Quoted from Daditude:

What is next?

Probably going to be my Fireball 2.

Just an update on the lost world I was able to get the out lane switch working. It was shorting out on itself.

Also fix the noise issue one of the potentiometers on the soundboard was cranked all the way up causing a loud squeal.

And then I ordered new apron decals so when I redo the apron I'll post those pictures

#299 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Where did you get your apron decals from? The ones I've been looking at aren't a perfect reproduction

Classic Arcade. Will see how it looks when it gets here.

#302 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

What’s the website?

That I don't know. He's on ebay

#303 4 years ago
Quoted from CanadianPinball:

Sometimes he's a necessary evil. He sells on eBay and pays his royalties but his products are the worst. That being said, I ordered the same apron decals for my lost world.

I got the translite from him and I really like it. I think it looks great. So yeah ya never know

#307 4 years ago
Quoted from Jason43:

You got a lost world translite? If so, the backglass in your pics looks spot on.

Yes the translight is what you see in the. Looks really nice.

However I did get my apron decals. Not too sure what to think about those.

15687399016106801285281490994685 (resized).jpg15687399016106801285281490994685 (resized).jpg
#309 4 years ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Ugh. Colors are way off.

Yeah not real happy with the colors either. Have to go to an "b", which I don't have just yet.

1 month later
#313 4 years ago
Quoted from Slim64:

Great job, the game turned out amazing.

Thanks for the compliment greatly appreciated. I've been playing the game and it plays really well I'm real happy with the way it turned out.

Looking forward to doing another game soon

#315 4 years ago
Quoted from punkin:

Great game to play for sure. mine sees a lot of use.

Yeah doesn't seem to get a lot of love from lots of people but I think it's a fun game

2 years later
#325 1 year ago

Wow I surprised that anyone looks at my old restore post.

Have not been on the site for a couple years, but now I'm back (at least for a while)

Your games look great!

#327 1 year ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Thanks!
As far as looking at your old restore post, that's probably because yours might be the only documented Lost World restore out here!
Thanks for taking the time for posting all the details and pictures, it's very valuable info to other hobbyists.

Yeah glad to hear that it's helping folks out. Getting ready to redo another game here soon.

#329 1 year ago
Quoted from wayout440:

Which game?
I like the colors for the apron and decals.
[quoted image]

I'm going to redo a Mr and Mrs Pacman

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