(Topic ID: 246167)

78 Bally Lost World Restore

By timab2000

4 months ago

Topic Stats

  • 316 posts
  • 43 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 16 days ago by punkin
  • Topic is favorited by 23 Pinsiders


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#86 3 months ago

Sorry for coming into this thread late. Really loving your progress. I'm about to tear into my first Mata Hari restore project, and I'm realizing how many tools I'm missing. So much information scattered about these threads, so I'm just trying to get some tips. Couple questions on your process if you don't mind...

1) How did you sand down & clean the legs before painting them?

2) What was your sandpaper grit progression for A) removing the original paint & B) smoothing out after you applied your fiberglass expoxy fixes.

3) What tumbler & cleaning medium do you use? I was debating getting an 18lb tumbler from Harbor Freight, but wasn't sure if I could get by with a 5lb. I'm sure it will come in handy.

4) How do you clean & de-rust your larger metal parts like the coin door front, plunger, etc? I'll definitely try your drill/wheel method for polishing. I wasn't going to tackle the coin door internal parts but mine is filthy & you've inspired me to try. Really impressed with how yours turned out.

Keep up the great work! Lost World is totally worth restoring, such a great game.

#90 3 months ago

Thanks for the info! I'm not going for a perfect restore on my MH, just want to get it looking nice & playing like new again. I mainly want to build some experience with cabinet repairs, painting, hardtop installation, rebuilding mechs, etc etc. I've just been reading threads & taking notes. I've started a thread, mainly for my reference. I'll be keeping on eye on your progress! Your stencil work has been really helpful to see.

Did you get raised edges on your paint layers from too much paint? Just curious if wet sanding is necessary after each color. Love the way that rattle can purple turned out.

#95 3 months ago
Quoted from timab2000:

There is a slight edge that you can feel. I don't go for the "clear coating" thing and try to make it look like a finish on a Ferrari. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but that's just not for me. Plus I really don't have the kind of equipment, and trying to get that kind of results with Rustoleum rattle cans would be pretty tough.
I would hate to try and screw it up and have to start all over again.

I’ve read about the wet sanding technique, but you’re right, it sounds scary & probably not worth screwing it up.

#96 3 months ago

Hey what do you call that low profile 4 wheeled platform you use to move the cabinet around? Looks like that would come in handy.

#100 3 months ago

Curious how many cans of primer & paint to used to get the cabinet done. Looks awesome!

#130 3 months ago
Quoted from timab2000:

Still working on the back box fixing all the bad spots. This one by the lock it was a pretty good chunk so I stuck a couple staples in there to give the epoxy something to hold onto.

Care to share your general process for the fiberglass epoxy? Do you staple thin aluminium sheets to create a new corner, place staples/screws & then pour the epoxy? Curious how long it takes to set.

#136 3 months ago

Wow I would have never thought of using tape. If you say it works I will def try it. Sounds much easier than using aluminium sheets.

What about really small areas (like a half inch) where there is a small chip along an edge? Do you use the epoxy in such a small spot or do you use Bondo filler? I would think the bondo would be easier to manage & sand along an edge. The epoxy is just for larger areas like corners where more strength is needed right?

I'll almost done sanding the original paint so this is my next step, hopefully this weekend.

#140 3 months ago

Ah ok that's exactly what i need to see with the edge work. I don't think my edges will look as nice as yours but we'll see. Thanks for the pics.

#143 3 months ago

His threads are extremely informative & the gold standard of repairs. I just like ask other people what works for them as well. I love what you’re doing in this thread

#161 3 months ago

Did the side rails come with the nails or did you have to source them separately? Looks awesome

#169 3 months ago
Quoted from timab2000:

Well I hope so. I bought a really nice soldering iron with different tips and adjustable temp settings. Really made a big difference.[quoted image]

I have a Hakko soldering station with the adjustable temps, tip assortments etc. I bought couple years ago for board work, but I’ve never tried before, but I’m going to have to do the same thing with a new rectifier board. Care to explain what temps, solder type & technique worked for you?

#186 3 months ago

Looks great so far. Have you ever attempted repainting a cabinet with the rustoleum paints in satin sheen instead of gloss? Might look more like a old factory paint job instead of a high sheen look? I've never found any photos of someone using satin paints. I'm curious how it would look. Hard to resist using those gloss paints.

#189 3 months ago
Quoted from timab2000:

I did this one in satin Rustoleum:
And this one...[quoted image]

Wow I had no idea you had so many restoration threads. You’ve done some excellent work! Since you’ve done both, do you prefer gloss or satin look? I imagine the gloss really can show the cabinet imperfections.

#206 3 months ago

What primer do you use? I’m having second thoughts about what I used on my backbox.

Any of these?

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#230 3 months ago

Do you throw your dirty parts directly into the tumbler, or do you soak in something like evaporust first? Seems like overkill, unless it's a particularly rusty part. Some say you do that to prevent your medium from getting too dirty & losing it's effectiveness?

#235 3 months ago

Thanks guys, that's exactly what I wanted to hear. Time to put the Tumbler in action.

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1 month later
#275 61 days ago

When you were completing the lower playfield, were you just attaching the harness or were you rebuilding the mechs & installing new parts as you went? Just curious.

#292 60 days ago

If only my restore can come out looking this nice. Looks awesome dude! You did a great job on this restore.

#298 59 days ago

Where did you get your apron decals from? The ones I've been looking at aren't a perfect reproduction

#300 58 days ago

What’s the website?

#305 56 days ago

That's a bummer. Now I'm thinking I might scan my apron before sanding & use photshop to print my own waterslide decals or print my own stickers. If the colors are bad on the ebay decals, I don't even want to waste the $30 on them.

Seems like pinballrescue.net no longer sells the bally/williams reproductions. That's a shame.

#308 55 days ago

Ugh. Colors are way off.

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