(Topic ID: 246167)

78 Bally Lost World Restore


By timab2000

3 months ago



Topic Stats

  • 311 posts
  • 43 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 18 days ago by bobnatlanta
  • Topic is favorited by 22 Pinsiders

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There are 311 posts in this topic. You are on page 2 of 7.
#51 3 months ago

Glad to see your wearing OSHA approved PPE footwear.

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#52 3 months ago
Quoted from Atari_Daze:

Glad to see your wearing OSHA approved PPE footwear. [quoted image]

That's funny it's about 80° in my garage. Can't sneak anything past you guys.

It's interesting some of the things you find when you work on these things and take them all apart this wire was just looped around this.
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#53 3 months ago

Coin door is done. Not real happy with the front, used the original skin pretty beat up tried to straighten it the best I could looks okay for now.
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#54 3 months ago

Bottom of the cabinet is in and glued. Just have to go through with the belt sander and bring down the trim pieces that we're glued in.

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#55 3 months ago

Belt sander work on the bottom of the cabinet is done.

Might be able to start spraying some primer tomorrow.

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#56 3 months ago

This came in the mail today always good to get.

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#57 3 months ago

I was able to get a coat of white primer on it today
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The bad Corner areas that needed work look much better now. But still need a little bit more work.
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The front coin box area that had two huge hole in it from the Carriage Bolt not really not noticeable now one small little little spot I got to fix
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#58 3 months ago

Here are some before pictures of some hardware
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#59 3 months ago

And some after pictures.

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#60 3 months ago

Shined up nicely! Did you use a bench grinder?

#61 3 months ago
Quoted from RonSwanson:

Shined up nicely! Did you use a bench grinder?

Buffing pad on a cordless drill

#62 3 months ago

#63 3 months ago
Quoted from timab2000:

Buffing pad on a cordless drill

Can you link to what you used? Also, what compound did you use on the pad? I'm looking to try this method out. Thanks.

#64 3 months ago
Quoted from RonSwanson:

Can you link to what you used? Also, what compound did you use on the pad? I'm looking to try this method out. Thanks.

Well the drill you can get pretty much get at any Home Improvement store even electric drill would work.

The buffing wheel I got from a mother's headlight restoration kit that polishes out the plastic headlights and then I just use Mothers Polish

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#65 3 months ago

Was able to get the yellow sprayed this morning.

With the scenic cornfield in the background from Iowa

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#66 3 months ago

Started to stencil the cabinet today first color is the red, one side is done.
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It was kind of a hard stencil lot of detail the peel off. But turned out pretty good.

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#67 3 months ago

If I remember right you're supposed to do the front stencil first so you can line up the side stencils with the graphics.

But with Lost World there's nothing to line up with the front stencil so I can spray it whenever I want.
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#68 3 months ago

AWESOME job so far! Keep up the great work!

Pimp!

#69 3 months ago

This is just too cool! Nice work. Thanks for taking the time to document and share. Definitely inspires me to try a full restore soon!

#70 3 months ago
Quoted from PinballPimp:

AWESOME job so far! Keep up the great work!
Pimp!

Thanks Jeff your products are great easy to use and makes a person like me actually look like I know what I'm doing. I'll keep buying from you.

#71 3 months ago
Quoted from shaundburch:

This is just too cool! Nice work. Thanks for taking the time to document and share. Definitely inspires me to try a full restore soon!

Hey thanks for the comments I appreciate it. I'm trying to post as much as I can

If it can helps somebody else out, or inspires them to take on a project of their own, I think that's great.

#72 3 months ago

Got the front first stencil done and the neck of the cabinet.
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Decided to go with yellow all the way up the back, rather than have the black part of that neck showing. We'll see how it looks can always change it later.
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#73 3 months ago

Thought I'd spend a little time working on the cabinet wiring. There's a lotta cut wires and splices that need work, plus it all needs cleaned up.

I always hated the look of the big yellow plug in. Put a nice new one on.

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#74 3 months ago

Okay couple splices cleaned up. A new power cord soldered on. Looks better already

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#75 3 months ago

And while I got my soldering iron out, I'll solder in 2 new flipper switches. These have seen better days.

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#76 3 months ago

That cabinet is looking good!

Looking forward to the blue.

#77 3 months ago

I appreciate you documenting your work. Quick question: how long did you let the red paint dry before pulling the stencil off?

#78 3 months ago
Quoted from RonSwanson:

I appreciate you documenting your work. Quick question: how long did you let the red paint dry before pulling the stencil off?

I don't have an exact time. But I spray it let it, let it sit for just a few minutes, and then start unmasking.

Once that is done, I start pulling off the stencil it's self.

One problem I run into is, when pulling the stencil off, the paint tends to want to stretch and stays attached to the stencil material. Then it breaks loose and drop back onto the cabinet.

This is probably caused by too much paint being sprayed on, or maybe not waiting long enough for paint to dry before pulling stencil off. Or pulling it off too soon. Haven't quite figured that out yet.

I need to take some time to experiment with left over stencil material and see what works best. Letting it dry completely or pulling while it is still wet. Or somewhere in between. It's probably more to do with too much paint. Hard to get that just right too.

#79 3 months ago
Quoted from TractorDoc:

That cabinet is looking good!
Looking forward to the blue.

Thanks doc...I have been following your Fathom work as well. It looks good too.

#80 3 months ago
Quoted from RonSwanson:

I appreciate you documenting your work. Quick question: how long did you let the red paint dry before pulling the stencil off?

When I repainted my Grand Prix I only waited about 5 minutes after I sprayed 2 light coats of color before I removed the stencils.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-up-an-old-williams-grand-prix#post-5033875

If you wait too long the paint will be too dry, and you run the risk of pulling it up.

-Paul

#81 3 months ago

Great work as always. Looking good!

#82 3 months ago

A fellow pinsider emailed me asking about the alignment squares mine being red.

They are actually the original part of the stencil from the first stencil that stay on the cabinet. I just painted over them when I line up the second stencil I will use those squares to make sure everything's lined up correctly.

When I lay the second stencil down I will put some blue painter's tape over the X just so the next color won't bleed through.
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#83 3 months ago
Quoted from Pablito350:

When I repainted my Grand Prix I only waited about 5 minutes after I sprayed 2 light coats of color before I removed the stencils.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/cleaning-up-an-old-williams-grand-prix#post-5033875
If you wait too long the paint will be too dry, and you run the risk of pulling it up.
-Paul

I think my big problem is I spray a little too thick.

#84 3 months ago

Getting ready to do the right side of the cabinet.

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#85 3 months ago

Right side first stencil is done turned out pretty good few little mistakes as you see in the pictures.

I'll go back after it dries clean all that up won't even know what happened.

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#86 3 months ago

Sorry for coming into this thread late. Really loving your progress. I'm about to tear into my first Mata Hari restore project, and I'm realizing how many tools I'm missing. So much information scattered about these threads, so I'm just trying to get some tips. Couple questions on your process if you don't mind...

1) How did you sand down & clean the legs before painting them?

2) What was your sandpaper grit progression for A) removing the original paint & B) smoothing out after you applied your fiberglass expoxy fixes.

3) What tumbler & cleaning medium do you use? I was debating getting an 18lb tumbler from Harbor Freight, but wasn't sure if I could get by with a 5lb. I'm sure it will come in handy.

4) How do you clean & de-rust your larger metal parts like the coin door front, plunger, etc? I'll definitely try your drill/wheel method for polishing. I wasn't going to tackle the coin door internal parts but mine is filthy & you've inspired me to try. Really impressed with how yours turned out.

Keep up the great work! Lost World is totally worth restoring, such a great game.

#87 89 days ago

Okay well to answer your first question, I just use 80 grit on a cordless Black & Decker sander on the legs and take that down to 180 Grit. And then throw a few coats of paint on them.

I have an 18 lb tumbler that I bought from Harbor Freight don't waste your time on the 5-pound ones you can't get enough stuff in those. I use Walnut shells and then flitz Tumblr polish additive stuff. You can't put a lot of the coin door stuff in the Tumblr for good 24 hours clean it up real nice.

If I have to polish anything out I just use that drill with that polishing pad and some mothers.

Then sanding down the cabinet, I belt sand with 80 grit to strip it down quick. I then bring it back in the shop fix all the damage. Then to get my repairs sanded down I'll use 80 grit down to 180 down to 220 hitting the entire cabinet with all those with a vibrating sander.

If there's any small scratches or dings I'll use spot body putty filler. Once I get everything the way I like it and I spray the primer on there I use my vibrating sander and hit the primer with 220 spray another coat or two and then hit that with 400 to level everything out then spray the color.

That's basically the routine I'm not saying that's the best way to do it but that's just the way I've been doing it turns out pretty good good luck working on your Mata Hari make sure you post lots of pictures of it.

When you start taking it apart take tons and tons of pictures so you can remember how to put it all back together especially the coin door about the time you think you've taken enough pictures take a whole bunch more

#88 89 days ago

So I went ahead and got the second stencil on one side of the cabinet lay down and color painted. Went pretty good for the most part I got one spot where I brushed into the purple with my finger accidentally I'll have to fix that.

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#90 89 days ago

Thanks for the info! I'm not going for a perfect restore on my MH, just want to get it looking nice & playing like new again. I mainly want to build some experience with cabinet repairs, painting, hardtop installation, rebuilding mechs, etc etc. I've just been reading threads & taking notes. I've started a thread, mainly for my reference. I'll be keeping on eye on your progress! Your stencil work has been really helpful to see.

Did you get raised edges on your paint layers from too much paint? Just curious if wet sanding is necessary after each color. Love the way that rattle can purple turned out.

#91 89 days ago
#92 89 days ago

Thanks for the vote of confidence I appreciate it.

Now that I got the one side painted I'm going back and looking at all the little defects and clean and things up.

I use a super Sharp super pointy exacto knife so I can just pick at the little pieces of paint that got stretch out and laid on to the other colors trying not to get into the yellow or the red.

Most people probably wouldn't even notice this but I do so I try to make it look as nice as I can.
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#93 89 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Did you get raised edges on your paint layers from too much paint

There is a slight edge that you can feel. I don't go for the "clear coating" thing and try to make it look like a finish on a Ferrari. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but that's just not for me. Plus I really don't have the kind of equipment, and trying to get that kind of results with Rustoleum rattle cans would be pretty tough.

I would hate to try and screw it up and have to start all over again.

#94 89 days ago

Working on the front stencil second color turned out pretty good. You have to put a little backing piece of cardboard or wood in the coin box opening so the stencil lays in there flat.

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#95 88 days ago
Quoted from timab2000:

There is a slight edge that you can feel. I don't go for the "clear coating" thing and try to make it look like a finish on a Ferrari. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but that's just not for me. Plus I really don't have the kind of equipment, and trying to get that kind of results with Rustoleum rattle cans would be pretty tough.
I would hate to try and screw it up and have to start all over again.

I’ve read about the wet sanding technique, but you’re right, it sounds scary & probably not worth screwing it up.

#96 88 days ago

Hey what do you call that low profile 4 wheeled platform you use to move the cabinet around? Looks like that would come in handy.

#97 88 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Hey what do you call that low profile 4 wheeled platform you use to move the cabinet around? Looks like that would come in handy.

It looks like a furniture dolly with a cinder block and a 5-gallon bucket, plus some bungees to hold it all together... Simple and effective!

#98 88 days ago
Quoted from HoakyPoaky:

Hey what do you call that low profile 4 wheeled platform you use to move the cabinet around? Looks like that would come in handy.

Not very high tech but it gets the job done.

It's better when it's back up on its correct legs.
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#99 88 days ago
Quoted from timab2000:

There is a slight edge that you can feel. I don't go for the "clear coating" thing and try to make it look like a finish on a Ferrari. Not that there's anything wrong with that, but that's just not for me. Plus I really don't have the kind of equipment, and trying to get that kind of results with Rustoleum rattle cans would be pretty tough.
I would hate to try and screw it up and have to start all over again.

Has anyone ever taken the stencils and made a factory like stencil (these were brass AFAIK but I don't think it would out of the realm of possibility to use 1/4" ply)? That way the proper amount of overspray the cab originally had would come through, and you'd avoid all of the edge issues. It's what holds me back from actually painting a cab - most repainted cabs I've seen look great, but they are too 'sharp' and then you can feel the paint layer on the side. I wouldn't want to clearcoat them (if I did, it would definitely be flat matte) - but the sharp edge just ruins it for me.

Pretty sure they used to paint these on their sides as well, cabinet comes down the line, hold up stencil, spray quickly, pull stencil away, move down the line.

#100 88 days ago

Curious how many cans of primer & paint to used to get the cabinet done. Looks awesome!

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