(Topic ID: 145331)

'76 Royal Flush: Joker Lights Points (Fixed)

By Shiny_balls

8 years ago


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There are 52 posts in this topic. You are on page 1 of 2.
#1 8 years ago

I have checked all the score points, I have no idea if it's correct or not because I have never play it before...
Please, let me know.....see below.
Drop targets:
1000 points without any joker
2000 with green or purple joker only
3000 points with white joker only
3000 points with green and purple jokers
4000 points with white and any joker
4000 with all jokers

Kick hole: exactly same points as drop target above.

Special light on and off every 10 points, right?

Thank you
IMG_2287.JPGIMG_2287.JPG

#2 8 years ago

Hole is 1000 + 1000 for each lit joker
Special light toggles on the 10 points.
Drops score hole value.

#3 8 years ago

5 Ball:
royal-flush1.gifroyal-flush1.gif
3 Ball:
royal-flush2.gifroyal-flush2.gif

#4 8 years ago
Quoted from KloggMonkey:

Hole is 1000 + 1000 for each lit joker
Special light toggles on the 10 points.
Drops score hole value.

OK Thanks KloggMonkey
I'll check the switches in 2B relay (White Joker) in Relay Bank

#5 8 years ago

Couldn't find any flaws on 2B relay, switches are looks good to me.
White Joker is supposed to be 1000 points not 2000....
Maybe one jumper failed? Where can I check that jumper?

I think, I'll check 1B and 3B relays (Green & Purple Jokers) for "jumper" switch

EDIT: Can't find it.... Help!

#6 8 years ago

The way the joker scoring works involves a combination of the three joker relays in conjunction with a series of score motor switches and the Hole relay (G). The first 1000 points is scored via four score motor switches all closed in series, on the first pulse of motor 1A. Then each of the four score motor switches opens (and then closes) in turn, blocking that path for the other four pulses of motor 1A (the last switch opening blocks the whole path, so nothing is scored on the fifth pulse of motor 1A).

As each motor switch opens though, an alternate 'bypass' path is available via a joker relay switch, as long as the corresponding joker relay has tripped. But if the score motor switch doesn't open, then both the score motor path and the alternate joker relay path is available to score the 1000 points (yielding 2000 points).

So for the white joker relay, this would be a normally closed switch at score motor 3B. Check to see that it's opening, and that the back tabs/wires aren't touching.

#7 8 years ago

Ahh ....score motor 3B.... I'm going to check it soon! Thank you!!
I have schematic but scratching my head a lot...still learning

New backglass has arrived from Shay today...I was shocking to see....
IMG_2291.JPGIMG_2291.JPG

The BG is undamaged....Whew!

#8 8 years ago

Damn thats a smooth ass PF! Where you get that done?

#9 8 years ago

Thanks man, I restored it myself in my garage under Vid's Guide.
2 part high gloss urethane clear coat, Shopline 661

#10 8 years ago

Wow....great job

#11 8 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

So for the white joker relay, this would be a normally closed switch at score motor 3B. Check to see that it's opening, and that the back tabs/wires aren't touching.

Two switches at score motor 3B are looks good and the back tabs/wires are also good, no touching.
A switch on the left (red arrow) is normally closed, I can't see the color of 2 wires. I put a paper strip in between the contacts and have a test run on motor....white joker is still 2000 points.
Hole (G) relay looks good to me.
On schematic, what is MAR on wires? OR is orange, WH is white.
IMG_2306.JPGIMG_2306.JPG
IMG_2297.JPGIMG_2297.JPG

#12 8 years ago

Well, it was a good theory.

If you block the switch on the white joker relay (2B), and only trip the white joker, then what does it score?

The hole should always score at least 1000, then the white joker should add another 1000, so 2000 total. With the white joker 2B blocked, should still get the 1000 for the hole, so curious if then get an extra 1000, 2000, or zero.

#13 8 years ago
Quoted from Shiny_balls:

On schematic, what is MAR on wires? OR is orange, WH is white.

Maroon (the wire color legend is on the lower left side of the schematic).

Is that level B on the score motor though in your picture? (can't quite tell from the zoomed in shot.)

#14 8 years ago

Doesn't looks like maroon in the picture....faded?
Yes, it's level B.
Score motor 3A and 3C are empty.
Hole or Drop Target (1000 pts.) plus White Joker (2000 pts.) equal 3000 pts.....White Joker is supposed to be 1000 points.
I pressed a Hole switch and every drop target with a white joker lit....3000 each.
Without a white Joker lit....1000 each
A flawed switch somewhere, I have put a paper strip to block every switch in white joker relay...nothing.
I tried on Green, Purple, G, relays and score motor 3B....I still can't find it.

Sigh, I'll start all over again on relays with a paper strip and check all back tabs/wires.....

#15 8 years ago
Quoted from Shiny_balls:

I have put a paper strip to block every switch in white joker relay...nothing.

Does this mean that with the switches blocked on the white joker relay it doesn't score the 2000 points, or does it mean it made no difference?

#16 8 years ago
Quoted from Shiny_balls:

with a white joker lit

and by this you mean with the white 1000 lit next to the kickout hole, right? The two white jokers are only lit before either of those targets are achieved, which trips the 2B relay (which lights the white 1000 by the kickout hole).

#17 8 years ago

Sorry DF, I do not understand your questions...
I have tested all the switches on white relay with a paper, nothing to eliminate 1000 pts when white joker lit next to hole.
I have looked at all 3 joker relays together... they are all matched normally opened/closed switches. Just one switch less on purple relay.
All back tabs/wires on 3 joker relays are good.
Also all good on X and G relays. I'm looking at score motor right now.

IMG_2309.JPGIMG_2309.JPG

#18 8 years ago

OK, I'll try to be yet more precise. There are actual white jokers that light up near the top of the playfield; a rollover lane and a standup target. Then there's the white insert down by the kickout hole that's worth 1000 when lit.

So when you say "white joker lit", are you literally referring to the lit white jokers (rollover and standup target) at the top of the playfield, or do you really mean that the white insert near the kickout hole is lit? (Only the pair of white jokers, *or* the white insert should be lit, as those lights are controlled by a make/break switch on relay 2B.)

And even more specifically, the white joker relay is relay 2B in the sequence bank, which is the middle relay in the picture you have above. As shown in the picture, that relay is in the "untripped" position. In that position, the two white jokers (rollover and standup target) should both be lit, and the white insert near the kickout hole should not be lit. While 2B is in this untripped position (along with 1B and 3B), the kickout hole only scores 1000 points. Is that correct?

Then when that relay 2B is tripped (and only 2B), instead of getting 1000 for the kickout hole plus 1000 for having achieved the white joker targets (which should now both be not lit), it's getting 3000 total. Is that correct?

And finally, if you block the switches on 2B while it's tripped, do you still get the 3000 points? Or do you only get the 1000 points? This is what I'm mostly trying to understand:

2B not tripped = 1000 points (from kickout hole)
2B tripped, no switches blocked = 3000 points (the problem)
2B tripped, switches blocked = ? points

If it's still giving 3000 points with 2B tripped and all switches blocked, yet only gives 1000 points just by not having 2B tripped, then that suggests maybe the switch blocking is incomplete, or some other physical short is created from tripping 2B.

Another thing to try would be to not trip 2B, but instead jumper closed only the switch that completes the 1000 point scoring path on 2B (SL+GR, OR+GR per the schematic). That *should* cause it to score 1000 + 1000 without having tripped 2B.

The purpose of these experiments is to get a different behavior, to help further isolate where the problem is.

#19 8 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

when you say "white joker lit"

Next to hole.

Quoted from DirtFlipper:

2B tripped, switches blocked = ? points
.

I don't know which switch, I blocked each switch at a time to look for a 2000 points....no luck.
(I hit hole switch to test)

I'm very sorry if I made you confused, my English is sometime not very good.
I'm talking about points and looking for a faulty switch.
Pinball machines are new to me and very difficult for me to write...
Look at KloggMonkey's post

Quoted from KloggMonkey:

Hole is 1000 + 1000 for each lit joker
Drops score hole value.

Now I get it, all three jokers have SAME points each (one pulse = 1000 pts)

I have just ONE problem.....the problem is my white Joker has 2 pulses alone, I'm looking for to eliminate 1 pulse.

You said motor 3B, so I checked it out... nope, the switch was fine....then you asked me few more questions......sorry again, I don't know what to say, I'm just trying to find a faulty switch or something else.

I just made a 72 secs video for you to look at it,

I hit a hole switch 3 times and 3 drop targets without a joker, that's 6000 points....perfect!
Now, I hit just one white joker roll over switch and then repeat the hole 3 times and 3 drop targets with a white joker light on.....what? 24,500 points? no, no, no, it's supposed to be 18,500 points!

Hole + white joker = 2000 pts..... not 3000 pts.
Drop Target + white joker = 2000 pts.... not 3000 pts
Roll over joker is 500 pts.
4000 pts maximum for hole or drop target with all 3 joker lights next to hole

#20 8 years ago

OK, thanks. When you say white joker lit, you are referring to the white insert next to the kickout hole.

I note in the video that while it's scoring 3000, the chime only seems to be dinging twice (so the score reel is faster than the chime plunger perhaps). That suggests that the extra pulse is getting in during one regular pulse.

In your schematic picture above, where you have the normally open switch on 2B circled in white, with the arrow pointing to it, that's the switch to focus on.

When 2B is not tripped, the behavior is correct.

When 2B is tripped, the behavior is getting the extra points.

If you block that switch circled in white on 2B, the behavior should be the same as if 2B is not tripped at all. That switch has a Slate+Green wire on one side and an Orange+Green wire on the other. That's the only switch that is involved on 2B, so it's super important to identify that switch. Blocking that one switch should match the behavior as if the relay wasn't tripped.

Once that switch is identified, check the contact points on the blades of the switch and see if either one is loose and able to spin.

#21 8 years ago

I have looked at color wires....
I found Orange+Green wire, but little strange on other....it's orange nylon tube.
What's slate like? cream color?

Pictures of back tabs/wires and a picture of other end of switch with contacts
EDIT: WAIT WAIT WAIT DO NOT POST!

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#22 8 years ago

Ahh I get it!
I found the Slate+Green wire, on purple relay....Ha!
Dinner time!
Will test little later.
IMG_2319.JPGIMG_2319.JPG

#23 8 years ago
Quoted from DirtFlipper:

If you block that switch circled in white on 2B, the behavior should be the same as if 2B is not tripped at all. That switch has a Slate+Green wire on one side and an Orange+Green wire on the other. That's the only switch that is involved on 2B, so it's super important to identify that switch. Blocking that one switch should match the behavior as if the relay wasn't tripped.
Once that switch is identified, check the contact points on the blades of the switch and see if either one is loose and able to spin.

I blocked one switch and it's matched the behavior as if the relay wasn't tripped.
The contact points are firm, I have tested it with my little multimeter on Orange+Green and Slate+Green wires with tripped relay, it passed the test.

What's next?

#24 8 years ago

Good. So now that confirms that the switch on 2B is a place to focus. When 2B is not tripped, the extra 1000 points doesn't happen, so there's not a stray short anyplace else. And when 2B is tripped, but that switch is blocked, there's still not the extra 1000 points (or any points) for the white joker.

To me, this suggests that the switch on 2B is 'bouncing' the signal somehow, and letting two scoring pulses through (the chime sound on the video matches that too).

he contacts may just need cleaning and the switch gapped a bit closer to get a tighter close when it trips though, so could try that. Or, could try to jumper that switch closed, rather than block it, to see if it can eliminate a bounce.

#25 8 years ago

OK, 4 days ago, I have pressed the contacts together harder with a fine brush stick and hold it to hit the hole switch....the score was still incorrect. (tripped position)
Same thing to drop target.

This time I uses tweezers to keep contacts together, then hit the hole switch....no luck. (tripped position)
IMG_2332.JPGIMG_2332.JPG

I put a jumper cable on Orange+Green wire and Slate+Green tab (tripped position) then hit the hole switch...no luck
Tried again (not tripped position)...sigh...no luck!
IMG_2335.JPGIMG_2335.JPG

#26 8 years ago

Should I look at G Relay switch?

#27 8 years ago
Quoted from Shiny_balls:

Should I look at G Relay switch?

Yes.

#28 8 years ago

Well, I tested the G switch, (Slate+Green and Maroon-Orange wires) (blocked and jumping cable)and the behavior is exactly same as 2B switch.
All 2B, G and Motor 3B switches are fine for sure.

Remember we talked about the flicker bulbs in the other topic? maybe, it's a same problem connection?

The flicker bulbs are still unsolved.

#29 8 years ago

So when the first 1000 is scored, that's via the path: Motor 1A+Motor 4C+Motor 1B+Motor 3B+Motor 2C+G.

But when 2B is tripped, the path bypasses Motor 3B, and goes: Motor 1A+Motor 4C+Motor 1B+[G+relay 2B+G]+Motor 2C+G. Note that there are actually two separate switches on G that are involved (before and after the relay 2B switch, logically).

This path should also only score 1000, but of course is scoring 2000 instead. Based on the chime only firing once, it suggests that there's a jitter in that one pulse somewhere.

In theory, if the motor 3B switch is blocked, then the initial 1000 points should not score, and only the (incorrect) 2000 points should score (when relay 2B is tripped).

Further, if you jumper the motor 3B switch closed, that should effectively override the bypass path via [G+relay 2B+G], and only score the initial 1000, plus 1000 when 2B is tripped (or untripped - shouldn't matter). I think this is probably the next best test. If the scoring then works correctly, that isolates the jitter to specifically that [G+relay 2B+G] path, and some additional jumper tests can be done for further isolate.

So jumper that motor 3B switch closed, and see what the scoring is when relay 2B is tripped and the hole is activated (can just activate the G relay directly if you want).

#30 8 years ago

OK DF, will do on Sunday, thanks!

#31 8 years ago

OK, I have the results......(I activated the G relay)

Jumper on 3B switch:
Not tripped 2B relay and the score is 2000 (First time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
Tripped 2B relay........... 3000

Block the 3B switch:
Not tripped 2B relay......0
Tripped 2B relay...........3000

IMG_2336.JPGIMG_2336.JPG
IMG_2337.JPGIMG_2337.JPG

#32 8 years ago

My old cheap analog meter......on Maroon-Orange wire and Black wire (neutral)

Not tripped 2B (1000pts) I see 2 pulses!!

#33 8 years ago

My analog multimeter on Maroon+Yellow tab (Motor 2C switch)
IMG_2297.JPGIMG_2297.JPG
(yellow arrow in picture)

Tested with not tripped 2B.....I see one clean pulse.....


See Post #32 video....looks different to this video

#34 8 years ago
Quoted from Shiny_balls:

OK, I have the results......(I activated the G relay)
Jumper on 3B switch:
Not tripped 2B relay and the score is 2000 (First time!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!)
Tripped 2B relay........... 3000

Block the 3B switch:
Not tripped 2B relay......0
Tripped 2B relay...........3000

These are very curious results. Jumping 3B closed should simulate what the behavior is when 2B is tripped (and it does; it scores the 2000 points as expected). But it also should have overridden any jitter if there was any in the path via 2B tripped (since 3B jumpered provides a continuous signal still).

So I think this suggests that the extra signal isn't specifically coming from that G+2B+G portion after all, but apparently is only happening when 2B is tripped, so the signal is getting through there.

Not exactly sure where to poke next, so some things to try to see how the results change (if at all):

- Block the motor 2C switch. This should prevent the initial 1000 being score, as well as the 3000 when 2B is tripped (so basically nothing should score, with 2B tripped or not). If it does score when 2B is tripped, then that suggests maybe there's an issue with relay 3B switch.

- Block the D switch (the path the leads off below this section on the schematic). Shouldn't be involved, but just eliminating the possibility.

Also, on the score motor, the switch stacks sometimes can tip a bit and run into an adjacent bracket, creating shorts. Might be worth checking that the switches are level, and not touching anything adjacent.

#35 8 years ago

I'll do it everything what you said tomorrow.

Quoted from Shiny_balls:

Remember we talked about the flicker bulbs in the other topic? maybe, it's a same problem connection?.

I think I was right.
When I put coins in and I noticed a special light flicker.....
I turned the garage light off and dark....put a coin in, the score motor made a 1/3 turn to get a credit, I see all the bulbs on playfield and back glass flicker.
More tests tomorrow!

#36 8 years ago

so sorry to join in so late in the game. here is something that gets overlooked. the 3 stand up joker targets are a 3 blade make/make switch. sometimes if the target was moved from liberal to conservative , the back 2 blades will be closed maybe from the rubber. remove the plastics from these targets and check switch gaps. if these back 2 blades are closed on any of the stand up joker targets , all kinds of crazy scorings will occur.

#37 8 years ago

Stand up Joker Targets are fine, Thanks Daveh.

OK DF, no scores on blocked 2C switch, with tripped 2B or not.
D relay has 3 switches, not sure which one...so I blocked one at a time....the results are unchanged with tripped 2B or not.

Quoted from DirtFlipper:

run into an adjacent bracket, creating shorts.

I put an alligator clip on bracket and one on black wire, the needle on analog multimeter is barely move when I hit few different relays.
Now, I'm looking at all switches on score motor to see if any flaws........
Some switches sparks, is that normal?
IMG_2340.JPGIMG_2340.JPG

#38 8 years ago
Quoted from Shiny_balls:

OK DF, no scores on blocked 2C switch, with tripped 2B or not.
D relay has 3 switches, not sure which one...so I blocked one at a time....the results are unchanged with tripped 2B or not.

These are good data points. These indicate that the extra scoring isn't "leaking" from anywhere else, which leads back to just that G+2B+G bypass path when 2B is tripped. The extra 1000 has to be coming from there.

So, this is where it's going to get a bit complicated with the jumpering. Previously, you jumpered directly at motor 3B, but now the goal is to narrow that bypass path further by jumpering increasingly smaller segments of it. So instead of jumpering at motor 3B, a first next one to test would be to jumper on the "far" sides of those two switches on G. That should jumper over the entire bypass path.

Then there are two segments in that path: the first G switch to 2B, then from 2B to G. Each can be jumpered. So for example, can jumper from the first G switch to relay 2B. But both the 'far' and 'near' sides of the switches can be used. One quick shortcut test is to jumper from the 'inner' switch on the first G switch to the other 'inner' switch on the second G switch. This jumpers over the relay 2B switch, but leaves both G switches in operation. It's like jumpering the relay 2B switch directly, but the test points are away from the actual relay 2B switch, so more of the wiring path is included.

The goal with these different test points is to find the narrowest combination that only scores the 1000 instead of the 2000. That further isolates where the jitter is entering.

'Near', 'Far', 'Inner' are all in reference to their position on the schematic in relation to the relay 2B switch.

#39 8 years ago

I just want to make sure before I do tests with a jumper.....Look at schematic,

Quoted from DirtFlipper:

a first next one to test would be to jumper on the "far" sides of those two switches on G. That should jumper over the entire bypass path.
.

First test: Red line jumper ("far") from 1st G to 2nd G........... is that right?

Quoted from DirtFlipper:

Then there are two segments in that path: the first G switch to 2B, then from 2B to G. Each can be jumpered. So for example, can jumper from the first G switch to relay 2B. But both the 'far' and 'near' sides of the switches can be used.

2nd test: Orange line jumper from 1st G to 2B ('far' and 'near') .........OK?
3rd test: Brown line jumper from 2B to 2nd G ('far' and 'near')........?

Quoted from DirtFlipper:

One quick shortcut test is to jumper from the 'inner' switch on the first G switch to the other 'inner' switch on the second G switch. This jumpers over the relay 2B switch, but leaves both G switches in operation. It's like jumpering the relay 2B switch directly, but the test points are away from the actual relay 2B switch, so more of the wiring path is included.
.

4th test: Blue line jumper 1st G to 2nd G ("inner")
IMG_2297 - Copy.JPGIMG_2297 - Copy.JPG
Please, let me know before go ahead

#40 8 years ago

Yes, those are correct.

The red line test should score 1000 regardless if 2B is tripped or not, as should the blue line test.

The other two rests will require 2B be tripped.

The results should be interesting (hopefully).

#41 8 years ago

OK DF, I did one test.....the 'red' jumper.....but I'm not going to do the last 3 tests....very strange on G relay.
Alligator clips on tabs and the scores sometimes changed when I hit the G relay a dozen times.....something loosely

I looked at that relay very very hard with a work light lamp holder.....

I think somebody made a mess with G Relay

-2 tabs are doesn't looks like factory soldered
-color wires on one switch doesn't looks like a match on schematic...

Tomorrow, I will check every switch in G relay with color wires to match on schematic!

Oh, I forgot to tell you... about 6 days ago, four black machine screws on G relay were loosely, I tighten up the screws.

#42 8 years ago

On schematic,
1st switch has a Slate+Green wire on one side and a Maroon-Orange wire on the other.
2nd switch has an Orange+Green and a Maroon+White....right?

I have just learned about "-" and "+" markings between wire colors from pinrepair.com

I'm going to check wires in my $#@%$# G relay and see if those are correct.
480197.jpg480197.jpg

#43 8 years ago

That seems right.

The '+' and '-' designations are explained on the schematic in the lower left side (along with the color abbreviations).

#44 8 years ago

OK I found the problem!!

One Switch (2nd) has an Orange+Green and a Maroon-White.....NOT Maroon+White

and other switch (3rd) has a Yellow+Green and a Maroon+White.....NOT Maroon-White

1st Switch has a Slate+Green and a Maroon-Orange......that's corrected.

Looks like I'm going to unscrews and turn 2 leaves (Edit: blades) around.
IMG_2349.JPGIMG_2349.JPG
480197.jpg480197.jpg

#45 8 years ago

Those look original to me, so not sure that's such a good idea.

Before attempting to mess with all those switches, I'd suggest trying the other jumper tests first.

#46 8 years ago

OK DF, I'm putting machine screws back and do jumper tests first!

#47 8 years ago

OK DF....
I blocked 2 switches (OR+GR & MAR-WH) and (YEL+GR & MAR+WH)
and put a jumper on Orange+Green and Maroon+White................
The score is 1000 with not tripped 2B and.......

and......

and with tripped 2B........the score is.....2000!!!

F@%# YEAH!!
WHOOHOO!!

Should I unscrew the machine screws and swaps the leaves (Edit: blades) or desolder to swaps the wires....which is the easiest?

#48 8 years ago

IMG_2351.JPGIMG_2351.JPG

#49 8 years ago

It's probably easiest to unsolder/re-solder the wires. Swapping the blades requires dismantling the stack, and also getting it back into the Nylon ladder.

Might want to also check that 1B and 3B work correctly though too, and that the problem doesn't just move.

#50 8 years ago

OK DF,
I did unsolder/re-solder the wires.
I tested the tripped 1B and 3B relays, all good....2000 each

Also, I tested 2 tripped relays at a time (GR+WH) (WH+PUR) (GR+PUR).....3000 each
All 3 tripped relays.....4000

My machine is now 100% fully functional !! YAY!!
But bulbs are still flicker....BOO!

It's impossible to fix this problem without a SCHEMATIC!!!
and of course, without YOU.....I couldn't fix it
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! YOU'RE THE BEST!!!

I'll have a couple of beers this afternoon!

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