This is the entire circuit. Try using an alligator clip jumper to bridge across either the contacts on A or the Run out switch on the score reel itself. All other paths share wires that are used by other functions and are therefore good unless you have multiple issues.

sj 10s (resized).PNG

There's a switch on the reset relay for each reel. If all the other reels reset, and this reel will work via the 10 point relay, the problem pretty much has to be the switch on the reset relay.

If you reset all the reels to zero, does the score motor stop and the game play? Does the reel score points from playfield targets. Is everthing else on the game resetting (drop targets, ball count unit)?

Sorry but you can't really trust a reading from a DVM when it comes to passing current through a set of contact points. You can, however, short across the two blades with a small flat head screw driver. FYI, you can also use your DVM as a jumper if you have a 10AMP Amperage setting. This normally requires you moving the red lead to a different hole and changing the dial position. But Caution! You risk blowing the internal fuse (usually 10 amps) inside the meter if you hit something that draws more than 10 amps. Those fuses can be very costly (and hard to find) if you are using something like a Fluke. Cheap meters may not even have a fuse inside, just something that will fuse open if feed too much amperage.

You have to assume that either one of those two sets of points shown above (Run out and A relay) are not making good contact, or you have a bad wire connection somewhere in between (or poor solder joint - that is why others might have stated elsewhere to tug on each wire connection in question). This is why an alligator clip jumper is about the best troubleshooting tool when working on an EM. It allows you to completely bypass an item or items in question. Normally, we would go from the connection shown to the right of the coil all the way over to the line to the right of the Motor 1A switch. But we don't need to go that extreme. We know the coil moves when you hit the 10 point relay (that's the other branch shown above the A contact). We know the other score reels reset (That proves the function of the Motor 1A switch which generates 5 pulses per motor cycle to all score reels.). So, we are left with the three interconnecting wires and two contacts in between those two extremes.

As to not scoring: Keep in mind, the entire playfield will be dead UNTIL the ball count unit gets off of its zero position. It is reset to zero as part of the reset sequence. But it is advanced to Ball 1 when a ball is kicked from the outhole and runs over the runway switch located in the track under the score card holder (just before it goes to the ball shooter). Normally, you can poke your finger in from the right and push the wireform down to advance balls. Once it goes to anything higher than 0, there is a set of points on the Ball count unit which applies power to the coils on the playfield and allows things to score points.

So, not to beat a dead horse but: If you set all the score reels on zero, and then manually push in the S (Start) relay, what does the game do with a ball sitting in the outhole?

A and AR are both the Reset Complete relay (usually an AX style trip latch relay - everyone's biggest gripe on a Gottlieb second only to the AS relay (Match unit etc.).

There is a coil to reset it, and a coil to trip it (latch release). The A relay is tripped upon start of a game and then reset once all the score reels are zeroed and the score motor closes switch 2B. This is happening if your game goes silent once the score reels are all sitting on zero. But it is the blade switches on the A relay which are used to allow the pulses from Motor 1A to get to the score reels if their Run out switch is not sitting on Zero (meaning it is normally closed at 1-9).

sj rst (resized).PNG

You can always drive it to KC and I'll fix it for you...

Yes, that looks right.

It should be trying to reset. That way, the score motor would be running and the switches on the A relay would be closed.

So the Wireform actuator you pictured should sit centered at 1 through 8. It should push way over to the left at 9 (closing that single switch), and then push slightly off center to the right at 0.

Identify the correct switch by the wire colors and jumper across either the run out switch on the score reel or the switch on the A relay or both. The reel should pulse as long as the score motor is turning.

What drives the 9s rollover switch in the above figure?

This is makes sense.

Actually, EMs have a certain "need". And that is to be played. Dirty switches can often clean themselves with repeated activations.

Switches that get cleaned, can still be fouled. One cause of this is the use of flex stones. They can leave little stones behind preventing the points from touching. I only use metal ignition or needle files as I learned this lesson myself long ago.

Of course, I would instead still question the quality of the solder joints at that switch (which were probably moved when you put the jumper on). In Extreme cases, we have seen the solder stick to the wire and the nickel plating but find the plating has debonded from the actual metal blade.