(Topic ID: 165893)

72 fireball question


By boilerman

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 28 posts
  • 9 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 years ago by Rat_Tomago
  • Topic is favorited by 3 Pinsiders

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#1 3 years ago

i need someone that has a fireball to take a quick look and tell me if the release coil on the zipper flippers is a FC-30-1300
mine has a williams coil x-27-700 in there. just want to make sure before i place an order

#2 3 years ago

I was curious so I checked 4 Million BC, Fireball, and Nip-It to see if Fireball was different and it was. 4 Million BC and Nip-It use FC 30-1300's while my Fireball anyway, has a G31-1800.

#3 3 years ago

It is indeed a FC-30-1300. I just checked just now for you.

#4 3 years ago

thanks

#5 3 years ago

Schematic says G31-1800 (location F14)

http://ipdb.org/machine.cgi?id=852

#6 3 years ago

Is it the one shown here and labeled as #10?

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If so, then it should be FC-30-1300 as shown here:

zipper_flipper_parts_latch_magnet_coil_(resized).jpg

I will make a guess that this correlates to the "Open Flipper Coil" which is at E-34 in the schematic and is also labeled FC-30-1300.

I have been doing a lot of looking at the Bally parts catalog and the schematics for my Bally EMs, and one thing I have noticed is that there is inconsistent naming of various parts. This makes it difficult sometimes to figure things out. If they used the same nomenclature in the parts catalog and in the schematic it would make things easier.

#7 3 years ago

Ah. You are correct. G31-1800 is for the open flipper RELAY, while FC-30-1300 is for the open flipper MECHANISM.

#8 3 years ago

Make sure the fuse under the playfield for the "open flippers" coil is correct. Mine was overfused and caught on fire at the Ohio Pinball Show. I was panicking, but everyone who knows EMs was just laughing at me!

#9 3 years ago

I did not have access to my print but thought other could just check. from what I can gather this coil burnt up and was replace with anything close. I rebuilt the zipper flipper mech top to bottom. everything cleaned up nice. the only part other then the coil I need is the large return spring. mine is mangled. part #32 anyone know where to get it?
as far as the fuse rating I always pull all the fuses in a machine and toss them. I replace with all new ones. on ballys I also toss all those crappy fuse holders too
these zipper flipper games a fairly popular, I am surprised parts for the flippers are so hard to find. no repro parts were made that I can find.

#10 3 years ago

The only thing I know to do is call Pinball Resource and given them the part number and see if they have it.

#11 3 years ago
Quoted from xsvtoys:

The only thing I know to do is call Pinball Resource and given them the part number and see if they have it.

they have the basic parts, coils, EOS, stops but the meat of the zipper flippers are hard to find. the close coil was hard to find for a while but some have surfaced in the last few yrs. the key is not to burn it up with the proper fuse.

#12 3 years ago

I needed a spring for a knocker solenoid also and PBR didn't have it. I have a Bally Bon Voyage and a Bally Monte Carlo which have the same knocker solenoid, but when I got the Monte Carlo the spring was missing. But I figure that maybe the spring can be found somewhere, or a close enough match. Somewhere like here which I picked at random. http://www.leespring.com I know they also have cases of different size springs at Ace Hardware and such. One of these days I am going to pull the spring from the working knocker and take it to see if I can find a replacement. Been too busy lately to deal with it. I should be a matter of matching the diameter, length, etc.

#13 3 years ago

one more fireball question. the inside edge of the head where the bg sits up to is factory black correct?

#14 3 years ago

Mine is dialed in really well and sandwiched between two machines or I would check. I am sure there are several people that can pipe in and give you an answer. If this doesn't happen in a timely manner then I will pull mine out from the wall and check for you.

#15 3 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

no repro parts were made that I can find.

Welcome to Bally and Williams EMs

Good ol' licensing.

#16 3 years ago
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:

Mine is dialed in really well and sandwiched between two machines or I would check. I am sure there are several people that can pipe in and give you an answer. If this doesn't happen in a timely manner then I will pull mine out from the wall and check for you.

should be easy to see. i am guessing it is factory but just want someone with a nice original to confirm

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#18 3 years ago

Okay I just spent 5 minutes looking at it in all sorts of different lighting. I left the room thought about it came back 15 minutes later and looked at it again for 5 minutes. This is my conclusion. This is one of those the dress is blue / the dress is black optical illusions. The shadowing makes it look black. IMHO opinion it is the darkest hue of dark blue someone could paint it without it being black. I would recommend finding someone that has one that can bring just the head out into direct sunlight. I tried to take pictures of it in my gameroom with flash and no flash but my gameroom is typical translucent soft light bulb lighting. I really wish it was a cut and dry color to give you a definitive answer.

#19 3 years ago

Sidenote....I just looked at Nip It and thought it was black but when you really study the color it seems to be the darkest of forest greens before it could be black. Again the optical illusion makes it look black. *shrug*

#20 3 years ago
Quoted from Rat_Tomago:

Sidenote....I just looked at Nip It and thought it was black but when you really study the color it seems to be the darkest of forest greens before it could be black. Again the optical illusion makes it look black. *shrug*

thanks
that was my problem. was not sure if it was the lighting or the angle that made it look black in the picture. mine was black but the cab had a lot of touch ups and wasn't sure if that was painted at that time
but I am guessing at this point but with the black on the back edge of the cabinet where the playfield glass frame pivots. I would guess that the head frame is black also

#21 3 years ago

here is the repaint next to the original

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#22 3 years ago

ok need some more help. the power switch was cut out due to the bottom of the cabinet being fiber glassed over due to a big hole.
I see the power wires taped together but there are 2 wires just cut not going anywhere or taped. you can see the red/white one in this pic. I pulled the bottom board but did not take a close up picture of the wires. if someone can get me a few good pictures of that area from a few different angles that would help a lot.

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#23 3 years ago

I hope these pictures I took for you help.

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#24 3 years ago

THANKS Dan
it will help one one issue. did you see my other thread about the cut wires?icould use a few pictures of those areas

#25 3 years ago

Still the original fuse holders?

#26 3 years ago
Quoted from wizardblom:

Still the original fuse holders?

just pulled my bottom board.. have not yet done any work or cleaned anything. those wires grabbed my attention.
i ALWAYS replace those cardboard holders and add new power cord.
rat has a nice FB, maybe he decided it did not need new holders

#27 3 years ago
Quoted from boilerman:

THANKS Dan
it will help one one issue. did you see my other thread about the cut wires?icould use a few pictures of those areas

Can you take a picture or point me to the thread with this question. I will see if I can duplicate the area you are talking about.

#28 3 years ago

Nevermind I found it in the EM tech area. Let me see what I can do after reading your posting.

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